PDA

View Full Version : Flintlock Parts



GregLaROCHE
06-26-2019, 12:05 PM
Can someone give me a link to an exploded diagram of a flintlock, that has all the parts labeled? I need to learn some new vocabulary.

mazo kid
06-26-2019, 12:22 PM
Simply do a search. This should get you started.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Flintlock+diagram&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#imgrc=2FJN71-SzG8HQM:

pietro
06-26-2019, 03:19 PM
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/68/a9/66/68a966de5a6b20689770c0a806a378d2.jpg https://o.b5z.net/i/u/10107143/i/ec/Tradlock1_i2.jpg

KCSO
06-26-2019, 04:35 PM
Lets see...

Flinchrock named after the first thing you do on firing
Tumbler a fellow who falls a lot with a gun in hand
Plate what you eat dinner off of
Frizzen when it is too cold you are...

Any more help you need?

bedbugbilly
06-27-2019, 02:52 PM
Good illustration pietro. When looking at it and learning the parts - keep in mind that the lock shown does not have a "captured tumbler" - i.e. a "bridle" is not shown. Not all locks utilized bridles - FYI, it is a piece that is over the tumbler, screwed in place which gives more stability to the tumbler - thus, the tumbler is "captured".

Edit: This link will show you the inside of a flintlock lock which has a bridle - the tumbler rotates under the bridle when the lock is cocked/fired.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/731/1/LOCK-LR-2000

rfd
06-27-2019, 05:53 PM
jim chambers colonial virginia lock that i stripped for prepping to be installed and inletted. no labels, but then again ya really don't need any, just need to know where they go back so the durn thing will work well. ;)

https://i.imgur.com/HBS4eCc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CKtNZ4W.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OJylbBB.jpg

indian joe
06-27-2019, 07:57 PM
Good illustration pietro. When looking at it and learning the parts - keep in mind that the lock shown does not have a "captured tumbler" - i.e. a "bridle" is not shown. Not all locks utilized bridles - FYI, it is a piece that is over the tumbler, screwed in place which gives more stability to the tumbler - thus, the tumbler is "captured".

Edit: This link will show you the inside of a flintlock lock which has a bridle - the tumbler rotates under the bridle when the lock is cocked/fired.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/731/1/LOCK-LR-2000

Pietro shows an excellent picture of a basic (low end) flintlock .
Four changes as you go up scale
1) bridle on the tumbler =much more stable and longer lasting
2) Fly in the tumbler so the lock will work with set triggers
3) stirrup on the mainspring connecting to the tumbler = eliminates friction at that point - smoother - faster
4) Roller frizzen = again eliminates some friction - smoother - faster
you can check out 1) 3) and 4) if you go to the link above and look at the late english flintlock

The geometry of English style locks is usually a little different than American frontier style ---the English smoother and quicker - American more reliable sparkers
These things dont always work as planned - there are fellers out there tune locks to the enth degree - others like me just overfill the pan and shoot em - screw another rock on when it stops sparking.

My take is slow locks have long powder channels from outside to the main charge so the closer the main charge is to the pan charge the better she works - get that right and you can have really fast flintlock ignition with a cheap "slow" lock

These things are a lot of fun and if you can shoot good scores offhand with a flintlock you done something a lot of fellers never do
That said - there is no sweeter piece to shoot offhand than a nice long barrel, early american style flinter that fits you right.