Lyman Roll Crimper

[dsh1106]

Here is a modified roll crimper from the 50's

This powder coated with 1950's Chevy Vermillion Orange/red

[Markopolo]

I’ll take it.... PM Sent...




:bigsmyl2: :kidding:

[LUBEDUDE]

Very nice.

I’ve given up on acquiring one of those. It appears I’m not willing to pay what they are worth. I constantly got outbid.

[Valley-Shooter]

What was modified?
Was orange the original color?

[dsh1106]

What was modified?
Was orange the original color?

Orange was the original color.
The hand crank is mounted directly to the main shaft.

The original had an offset hand crank mounted above the main shaft.
I'll post a picture later.

Scott

[Pressman]

Scott, your photography is getting so much better. Now you need to work on your lighting. You need more fill.
Adrama has some really inexpensive ring lights that provide an incredible amount of fill without ruining your fun money budget.

And I am like Lubdude, I have about given up finding one of those things at a price that doesn't require that I put a 2nd mortgage on the house.

Ken

[dsh1106]

Thanks Ken,

My new phone has more to do with it than my skill set.

Keep an eye on the S&S section, this might show up there.....

[Green Frog]

Scott, at this rate you’re going to be the Doug Turnbull of reloading tool restorations! When will you begin accepting orphan tools to resurrect? :bigsmyl2:

Froggie

[dsh1106]

Froggie, most of these tools have been a work in progress for a couple of years. These older Lyman/Ideal tools are getting harder to find, and when you do the prices reflect that.

I doubt most would pay to have the restoration work performed.

[Green Frog]

Somebody said I was going at about normal speed when it took me from the early '90s until last year to gather up a set of S&W tools to load a single caliber... and I didn't even have to do any restoration work. It all takes time and patience, otherwise it would be like going to Wal*Mart and getting it off the shelf. ;-)

Congratulations on some really nice work, and I was only half joking about doing it for others. If you have the time and inclination, I'm sure there are a few people out there with the shekels to make it worth your while. If you doubt me, look at some of the prices nice old reloading items are bringing on flea-Bay as well as the gun auction sites. Somewhere on the back of the stove, well behind the back burner, there are several old tool restoration projects, but since I've retired I no longer have any time to do anything... figure that out! :?

All the best,
Froggie

[Green Frog]

Scott,

Not to drift too far off topic, but I’ve got a question about finishes. Have you tried refinishing any of the old (shiny black) tools? Did you go with baked on powder coat there as well or did you use an enamel or lacquer based paint? How did you prep the original surface before refinishing? I have been thinking of black enamel (old school) but would certainly entertain your experiences and advice on the matter. :???:

Regards,
Froggie

PS In case you’re wondering, your mention of the orange PC finish on this roll crimping tool is what stimulated my Froggie brain to ask. ;)

[dsh1106]

Froggie

I powder coated these last two projects. Orange and black on the roll crimper and read on the Grand American.
Prep work is the same as for paint, the cleaner the better.
For the roll crimper, I soaked everything in denatured alcohol and removed all the paint. Sprayed everything down with break cleaner.
I bead blasted all the parts for the Grand American.

I like powder coating better than painting, less clean up, quicker processing and more durable finish.

[Pressman]

Mr Frog Person Sir, the old shiny black tools were japaned finished. You could try looking for a way to duplicate that. I haven't done that but I think it is possible to duplicate. And it gives a very durable finish.

[Green Frog]

Mr Frog Person Sir, the old shiny black tools were japaned finished. You could try looking for a way to duplicate that. I haven't done that but I think it is possible to duplicate. And it gives a very durable finish.

I was afraid of that... looking at what “real” Japanning involves put fear in my Froggie heart. I’m back to the idea of a heavy coat of Testor’s gloss black model paint and call it good. It just doesn’t rise to that level of importance on my overcrowded workbench. :|

Thanks for the response, though. :)

Froggie

[dsh1106]

Froggie

PM me if you need something powder coated, provided it will fit in my little PC oven, I can help you out.

[Green Frog]

Thanks for the kind offer, Scott. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to carve out some time to do prep work, but I’ll keep it in mind. I’ve got this orphan that has a Culver style conversion and a hole bored in the top for a funnel to return charges and refill the reservoir. Not very traditional in the end, but it looks kinda old school.

Froggie

[Pressman]

Mr Frog Person Sir, can you post a picture of your orphan, I am interested in what you have.
Ken

[Bent Ramrod]

I masked and sprayed an Ideal #1 Lubrisizer with a 96-cent Wal-Mart rattle can of Gloss Black. If there’s a difference between what it looks like and what the finish on my other #1 and my Ideal #5 Powder Measure (except for aging and battering), looks like, I can’t distinguish it.

I got the impression that the old Japanned finish was some kind of dull stove blacking with a coat of varnish on top. Gloss enamel reproduces it pretty well, IMO.

[dsh1106]

When I was a young boy, my Granddad told me that the Japanned finish on older tools was one of the most durable finished made. He explained, that's why most of the older tools that had the Japanned finish still look as good as they did when the were new, unless they were really abused.

[Green Frog]

244930244931244932Ask and ye shall receive, Mr Pressman! These pictures were taken a while back and were taken more to show the micrometer rotor than the #5, but you can see it's pretty rough. As best I have been able to determine, the rotor is an early example from MCRW.

Froggie

[dsh1106]

244930244931244932Ask and ye shall receive, Mr Pressman! These pictures were taken a while back and were taken more to show the micrometer rotor than the #5, but you can see it's pretty rough. As best I have been able to determine, the rotor is an early example from MCRW.

Froggie

That's pretty a cool setup. I've seen a few of these with the micrometer setup but I can't remember the name ... Culver maybe

[Green Frog]

Scott,I feel a little guilty dragging this thread so far afield, but since you were the OP...

As best I’ve been able to research the story, Homer Culver developed his click micrometer rotor conversion for the Lyman #55 soon after the new version came out. The concept proved so popular that several other small companies produced their own version. Meanwhile, since there were still a lot of the old #5s out there at the time, Mr Culver converted at least one of those as well. I got my Culver Clone (a MCRW??) in a rather pedestrian #55 and was inspired to put it into an odd #5 body I happened to have. To be honest, I was just playing around to try and make something neat out of some left over parts, not meaning to fool anyone or commit a fraud on the collecting community.

Froggie

[dsh1106]

Scott,I feel a little guilty dragging this thread so far afield, but since you were the OP...

As best I’ve been able to research the story, Homer Culver developed his click micrometer rotor conversion for the Lyman #55 soon after the new version came out. The concept proved so popular that several other small companies produced their own version. Meanwhile, since there were still a lot of the old #5s out there at the time, Mr Culver converted at least one of those as well. I got my Culver Clone (a MCRW??) in a rather pedestrian #55 and was inspired to put it into an odd #5 body I happened to have. To be honest, I was just playing around to try and make something neat out of some left over parts, not meaning to fool anyone or commit a fraud on the collecting community.

Froggie

No worries Froggie, lots of good information shared!

Scott

[Pressman]

That looks good. I was wondering if you had a Schmitt conversion. I have the hot running wants for one of them.
It is kind of nice that #5 and #55 parts interchange.

[Green Frog]

I'm not familiar with the Schmitt conversion. What makes it distinguishable from the other Culver Clones, and are there any identifying marks I can look for?

The rotor assembly (and handle) can be interchanged, and the knocker didn't change until some time about the mid-70s. I like the one piece body and reservoir of the #5, but it makes it kinda tough to change anything. Also, you have to use the clamp since the little drop tube is so small in diameter, you can't use it for mounting.

BTW, have you heard anything about Project 55 lately? Any chance of it coming back online any time soon?

Froggie

[Green Frog]

Since I broached the subject of Ideal #5 measures in this thread, I thought I'd add this little tidbit, so apropos of nothing..

While doing my usual scan of antique and vintage reloading tools on fleaBay, I found a listing for an Ideal #5 powder measure with a fairly low starting price. The pictures were sort of poorly done and the auction wasn't stirring up much interest, but I looked closely, and noticed that the offering was a #5 Micrometer rather than the standard model. I held my breath and crossed my fingers and put in a bid, then a slightly higher one, and lo and behold, I won! :happy dance:

I have a special affection for these micrometer measures because they are the only ones I could find that measured 4759 pretty consistently... not perfectly, but as good as I could shoot offhand. Anyway, I always wanted to keep one and a spare, but now I actually have an extra to use for trade bait or whatever... it was just too good an opportunity to pass up. Yep, every once in a while even a blind hog finds an acorn. 8-)

Froggie

[Pressman]

You are a Winner, everyone loves a Winner.

It is a great feeling to win one without getting a mortgage on the ranch.

Congratulations.

[Green Frog]

The person selling it is apparently a beginner and sells all sorts of odd stuff they get from who-knows-where. Obviously they left a fair amount of shekels on the table by their lack of knowledge... but then again, that's why we buy stuff at auctions and tag sales, to get a potential bargain.

The first #5M I got, about 25 or 30 years ago, was at a little gun show in Northern VA. It had a tiny tag on it with the number 23, which I assumed was a stock number for the seller. I held it up and pointed at the tag and he said 23 dollars since it doesn't have the original rotor. Yes, I said, that's too bad (as I snatched the cash out of my wallet before he could change his mind!)

There have been others since then, but I doubt I'll ever beat that deal.

Froggie

PS Scott, again I want to apologize for the hijack, but it's been too much fun to resist. I hope you'll forgive!

[dsh1106]

No worries Froggie, I like seeing new toys!!!

I must have missed that auction, I've been watching the #5's for awhile, hoping to find a decent priced "New Haven" model.
Scott

[dsh1106]

Pictures of the Lyman Roll Crmper - from approx 1962 -1964

[smithnframe]

244930244931244932Ask and ye shall receive, Mr Pressman! These pictures were taken a while back and were taken more to show the micrometer rotor than the #5, but you can see it's pretty rough. As best I have been able to determine, the rotor is an early example from MCRW.

Froggie

Rough?.......I still use a # 5 in similar condition!

[Green Frog]

Rough?.......I still use a # 5 in similar condition!

Since I used my #5 Micrometer to load at the bench for Schuetzen matches, it got a little extra wear and tear riding back and forth to events. Eventually I got a nice padded carrying case from Sinclair, but the finish had pretty well been beat up. As long as it works well, I don't worry that much about the finish on the units I take to the range for actual use, but if I want to put them on display I like to "pretty them up" a little bit! :wink:

Froggie

[Earl Brasse]

Interesting thread (including the #5 info.).

Did all the Lyman trimmers start out with the "complete" belt drive & crank wheel set-up like the excellent one dsh1106 pictured?

If so, modifying them must have been popular, I have 1 complete, 1 with just the hand crank wheel & 1 with only the belt-drive wheel.

I still have clean-up to do on the last one & need to find another oiler as mine is snapped off.

dsh1106
I see there is a black "holder" in the pics, is it different than the 1 on the tool?

[dsh1106]

Interesting thread (including the #5 info.).

Did all the Lyman trimmers start out with the "complete" belt drive & crank wheel set-up like the excellent one dsh1106 pictured?

If so, modifying them must have been popular, I have 1 complete, 1 with just the hand crank wheel & 1 with only the belt-drive wheel.

I still have clean-up to do on the last one & need to find another oiler as mine is snapped off.

dsh1106
I see there is a black "holder" in the pics, is it different than the 1 on the tool?

That "holder" was for the 410 and smaller hulls.

[Earl Brasse]

Thanks, I haven't managed to find a .410 crimphead for even half of reasonable yet.
I haven't had to load any .410's yet so it's still o.k.
Looks like finding a "holder " will be tough though.