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30yrcaster
10-19-2008, 04:42 PM
Don't have any Bull Plate Lube yet so I have to use what I've got. I have Silver anti-seize 133A & Moly Anti Seize both good to 1600 degrees.

Anyone use these to keep lead from sticking to the sprue plate?

I've read some posts about the silver 133A but nothing about the Moly type. Any comments about the Moly?

Do you apply it to the sprue and top of the mold?

Apply hot or cold?

Thanks!!

MT Gianni
10-19-2008, 05:05 PM
I have used it to lube pins and hinges. I believe it might migrate to the cavities and give you fits trying to cast a well filled slug. I would not use it on the plate. Gianni

randyrat
10-19-2008, 06:20 PM
I've used it on the sprue plate, top of mold blocks and mold faces, untill i got some Bull plate Sprue lube and learned not to cut the sprue plate too soon. You'll know when you used too much of the Anti seize so use it carefully.

jack19512
10-19-2008, 08:01 PM
Don't have any Bull Plate Lube yet so I have to use what I've got. I have Silver anti-seize 133A & Moly Anti Seize both good to 1600 degrees.

Anyone use these to keep lead from sticking to the sprue plate?






I use to use the anti-seize but quit using it. Now I don't lube my Lee molds at all. Really can't tell a bit of difference between when I lubed and now that I don't except now I don't have any kind of mess on my molds.

Maven
10-19-2008, 08:05 PM
30yrcaster, Having just used some NAPA anti-sieze today when I changed out my bike pedals, I think you may be on to something. It may work if you apply it to both the underside
of the sprue plate and top of the mold when hot and with CB's in the cavities and if you burnish it with a dry cotton rag: Use only enough to leave a silver coloration (but no oil) on both. Let us know how you fare!

Ricochet
10-19-2008, 10:42 PM
I use it. Keep it really thin on the sprue plate, or it'll bubble and ruin boolit bases for a while.

Springfield
10-19-2008, 11:04 PM
Just get the Bull Shop sprue lube. It lasts longer and it doesn't get into the cavities as easily and ruin your bullets. It also doesn't build up and gunk up your moulds. I don't now what the hell he puts in there but it works better than anything and it is cheap as well, a bottle lasts forever unless you tip it over(don't ask how I know-twice). It also lubes the alignment pins and the sprue pivot. You DO have to lube the pins once in awhile. I usually cast 3000 bullets at a time, 3-4 times a week, so I have some experience with this. I can't afford to ruin my moulds as most of them are custom GB's, and thanks to Bullshop I have over 40,000 bullets through some moulds and they are still going strong. Contact him at bullshop@wildak.net

Meatco1
10-20-2008, 01:04 AM
SPringfield:

I don't have to ask how you know, cause I know also (twice also). But in any case that Bull Plate is great stuff!

Richard



Richard

30yrcaster
10-20-2008, 06:23 AM
Sorry, there's no way I'll get any Bull Plate Lube by the time I'm done with this casting session.

Looks like most have used the silver/aluminum/copper anti seize.

Anyone used the Moly, black stuff?

Thanks

shotman
10-20-2008, 06:57 AM
i had a post about Kroil to remove lead. Two days ago i was going to cast some boolits for a 444 . I got a new Lee 6 cav . I cleaned it and sprayed it with mold release. Casted about 1/2 off Lee 20lb pot. Boolits were a MESS i kept 25 out of about 200. Sunday i was killing time and took the mold it had lead stuck several places. I sprayed it with the kroil and cleaned it up . It realy cuts the mold release spray. I wiped it off inside and out with a shop rag. It still had a film of kroil inside and out. I melted all the mess and started casting. This was a cold mold. 4 fills to heat the mold and only lost about 10 out of the whole pot. I could open the mold and till about the last 3 molds full they fell out. I had over 250 . The mold has NO lead any place on it. I have some pic that i will post if anyone nees pic. I am not one to cast all day but what i can see is that around 200 and they tend to start sticking a little. So I will just move to another mold till the first cools down. rick

Boomer Mikey
10-20-2008, 04:23 PM
I've been using Bullplate lube or an artists lead (graphite) coat on iron and aluminum molds but using a small piece of lead away cloth wrapped on the end of a pair of forceps to wipe all the surfaces except inside the mold cavities has worked as good as anything.

It's great for removing the lead wash on top of the mold blocks and the sprue plate while the mold is hot and pretty much prevents those annoying small specks of lead from sticking to mold block faces... they'll usually just wipe off. The lead away cloth also leaves a film that helps prevent rust. Another benefit of using the lead wipe cloth is that it's use doesn't migrate a film inside the mold cavity like lube does messing with bullet fill-out and such.

I have no doubt that Kroil would also provide protection and prevent lead from sticking to mold surfaces but I'm surprised it doesn't mess with lead inside the cavities while casting bullets. I'll try it next time I cast a pile of bullets... it's good stuff.

Boomer :Fire:

shotman
10-21-2008, 06:30 AM
I was too the mold was cleaner after i cast than before. the lead on top of plate when cut just turn mold over and drop back in. I took 4 fills to get good cast fillout . I am useing a Lee pro 20 and set heat at 8 mold setting on bottom and start pouring from handles to front. rick

30yrcaster
10-21-2008, 01:08 PM
30yrcaster, Having just used some NAPA anti-sieze today when I changed out my bike pedals, I think you may be on to something. It may work if you apply it to both the underside
of the sprue plate and top of the mold when hot and with CB's in the cavities and if you burnish it with a dry cotton rag: Use only enough to leave a silver coloration (but no oil) on both. Let us know how you fare!

I tried the silver 133a stuff this morning's session. After the mold was putting out good filled out bases, I put a small amount on the sprue plate and top of mold with a Q-tip. The bullet still in the mold. Wiped it off with a cotton patch. Seemed it took about 10 more bullets to get the bases good. Worked great for 30 minutes then the lead started to appear. Scraped it off and put on some more 133a then the bases weren't perfect and it took about 10 more bullets to get good ones. The lead started to build up much quicker than the 30 minutes. Looks like once you get the lead buildup to start it's too late to put the anti seize on. Don't think it's worth it if each time you put it on you get bad bases and need to cast 10 more bullets.

When using Bull Plate Lube, do you get bad bullets for awhile each time you apply? I thought I read a post from the Bullshop guy you need to put the stuff on every 30 min.

Meatco1
10-21-2008, 01:20 PM
I have no problems using Bullplate. I will add a drop or two when I see the lubricant is about gone, and bullets still drop out just fine for me.

Richard

montana_charlie
10-21-2008, 01:34 PM
Once the carrier evaporates, spray on graphite is a dry substance that cannot migrate.
I use it on the entire exterior of all moulds, and on the interface between mould top and sprue plate.
I use the hi-temp anti-sieze (in microscopic quantities) on all screw threads, alignment pin ends, and under the sprue pivot washer.

The 'critical' areas of a mould are the faces and cavities. I don't allow any substance to 'muddy up' those machined surfaces.
CM