Trouble with a mold

[swallytrip]

I was wondering if there was any tips on a mold i recently bought. I recently bought a 200swc 45 rcbs mold off of eBay as used but of course as i could tell it was basically new. Well anyways im having trouble keeping the bolt for the sprue plate tight. I know there is a set screw for it and i have messed with that trying to get it set a few times. Also i have problems getting the mold to open it seems stuck and that i have to tap the handle bolt to get it to open. Also bullet drop but im going to try Kroil soon enough and hope that helps. I went to RCBS figuring all the lee type problems would be past me but not so.

[Burnt Fingers]

Did you clean the mold?

I've never had the sprue screw loosen if I tighten the set screw.

It's not uncommon to have to tap the handles to get the mold to open.

[Conditor22]

Get a new sprue plate screw from RCBS then put a small lead shot between the set screw and the sprue screw
scrub the inside of the mold with a green scotch pad and solvent, then lube the pins with synthetic 2-stroke oil additive
rub the edges of the mold cavities with some wood to remove possible burs. You may need to lightly polish the cavities. Search leementing

Pictures would be helpful.

[Martin Luber]

Sometimes the blocks tilt or cock on the handles making it tough to open. I tap some with a wood dowell at the bottom edge of the mould; they open and dump nicely.

Good luck

[country gent]

I use a small copper disc under the set screw to help hold it if the screw is loosening up still go to 2 Set screws and lock sprue plate and run second in to jam set screw. I had this on a lyman and I used a long set screw and jam nut against the blocks to lock it. With this make sure the nut clears the sprue plate. Clean the blocks very good as the preservatives can make a mould sticky opening and closing. Before making pin adjustments make a few runs and see if it breaks in and loosens up.

[swallytrip]

Thanks guys ill give all that a try. Ill have to clean it good i tried some graphite spray in the cavities to see if it would drop easier but didnt do much. Ive done the leementing to all my lee molds and i still hate them. I was hoping this 45 mold would work easy like my 44 Keith mold Ive had no trouble outta that one at all but this one has been bothersome. Also what is the synthetic 2 stroke oil additive is it the small bottle of synthetic oil mix or is it something else?

[country gent]

Yep its the 2 cycl oil mix. In stores. Use a very light coat. Give it a few short sessions before doing a lot it may need to season or break in.

[cwlongshot]

I love KROIL too, but NOT for bullet molds. As advised syn oil mix or specific mold lubes and VERY small amounts are needed.


I also agree disassemble de grease and clean all parts. This is std fare for every mold that comes to me. New Use or borrowed. Soak in ACETONE, clean with a stiff nylon or brass brush, hot soap and water X2/X4 then brake clean and cycling temps to start.

I am VERY lucky to have a good friend who has many molds I can use/borrow. Most are in storage in oil. I MUST clean that oil form the pours of the mold before I can get a good bullet. I have gotten good at it! just yesterday I had to make two sets of handles. (Modify existing handles) as to molds where setup for magama mold casting and the thru bolt for the spure plate is large and sprung so reg handles no longer fit. You cannot revert as the stop is drilled to be the spure plate bolt side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Bullets/Casting/2BEA9BBA-B626-4FD0-84A0-81DDD2268D6B_zpsfusauco4.jpeg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Bullets/Casting/DED98509-1078-4686-920E-229BD827273C_zpsalhoxsxy.jpeg

CW

[Yodogsandman]

Try a little bit of triple ought OOO steel wool in the set screw hole. Leave the sprue plate loose enough to just barely slide off when turned to the side, then tighten it up. This will ensure proper ventilation of the mold. I've used a little piece of cut off #14 copper wire in the hole, also.

[Land Owner]

A permanent solution includes tightening the spru plate screw when the mold is hot. Not to tight. Just right.

Carefully, so you do not get burned, scribe a line down the face of the spru plate screw-head toward the set screw hole. This scribe line has to theoretically "pass through" the center of set screw hole.

Loosen the set screw and remove the spru plate screw. When cool enough to hold, grind a FLAT PLACE in line with the scribe line on the spru plate screw. The flat spot does not have to be deep - wide- or continuous and it may "upset" some of the threads.

When the spru plate screw is reinstalled and the set screw tightened, the set screw should engage the flat spot and there will be no rotation in the scru plate screw allowing it to loosen when hot.