Is a thermometer needed??

[FN in MT]

I'm assuming that alloying or casting works best at a certain temperature range. To melt scrap into ingots I use a 40# plumbers pot over a gas heater, and have a 25# capacity electric casting pot on the way.

What should I get for a thermometer??

And any suggestions on flux other than the oil or candle wax I've been using.

FN in MT

[jcunclejoe]

I have found that certain molds cast better at certain temperatures. It is a trial and error deal but once the magic number is found, write it on a paper on the wall behind your casting pot. Then set the temp and off you go.
It really helps keep things consistant. It says not to leave it in the pot all the time but I have left it in for years (both molten and solid) and it still works great.
I would suggest getting one.
Good luck and have fun.
Joe

[FN in MT]

Lyman makes one ........ any other reccomendations?

FN in MT

[Maven]

Try this site: www.theantimonyman.com

[copdills]

I have the RCBS , it works great for me

[largom]

It definitely is needed when smelting wheel weights for ingots over a gas fire
By keeping the temperature around 800 Deg. you will not melt any Zinc weights
which might be mixed with theold standard lead weights.
Just my opinion...............Larry

[FN in MT]

I appreciate Your opinion Sir! I've cast in the past, but I'm FAR from an expert in the field.

The dedicated casters here are an amazing wealth of information.

FN in MT

[454PB]

I've been casting for 37 years now, and have only owned a lead thermometer and hardness tester for two years.

Yes, they are fun to play with and you learn some interesting stuff, but they certainly aren't required.

I got the RCBS and it has worked flawlessly.

[montana_charlie]

I'm assuming that alloying or casting works best at a certain temperature range.
Temperature isn't too critical when alloying as long as everything is well melted.
It is critical when casting, but 'reading' your bullets to judge mould and alloy temperatures (one affects the other) will work reliably in finding the right temperature.
Once that combination is discovered, a thermometer can give you a 'reference number' (for that alloy and mould) which can be written down, somewhere.

To melt scrap into ingots I use a 40# plumbers pot over a gas heater, and have a 25# capacity electric casting pot on the way.
Will that be the Waage pot?

What should I get for a thermometer??
I think any of those sold by Lyman, RCBS, (et al) are close enough for general work. After all, you only need a reference number to get back to.

And any suggestions on flux other than the oil or candle wax I've been using.
If, by fluxing, you mean using a substance to blend the alloy and encourage contaminants to float out, those are as good as any.

If you are referring to 'reduction'...which is the process of recovering oxides instead of skimming them off...some (many?) of us use a wooden stick. Cheap, clean, and effective in more ways than just introducing carbon into the mix.

After the oxides have been reduced there is some ash to skim out...but no metal is lost.

CM

[John Boy]

By keeping the temperature around 800 Deg. you will not melt any Zinc weights
Zinc — Melting Point: 692.68 K (419.53 °C, 787.15 °F)
Best to keep the pot temperature between 620 to 650. Then the zinc ones will float to the top with the rest of the junk

[John Boy]

Is a thermometer needed??
Fn - the answer is no unless you plan to cast bullets with a variance of 0.5gr

[shotman]

thermometer is good and will reward you in several ways You also wanted to know about flux Brownells sell an alloy flux that is good it dont smoke or burn Its called Marvel flux . Welding supplys also carry it it is used with brazing. Alittle goes a long way. I still have 1/2 of a 5lb that is 10yrs old

[Bret4207]

I'm with 454 on this. I've been casting good boolits for about 30 years and didn't have a thermometer or hardness tester till a few years ago. It's interesting to watch and helpful, but not NEEDED. You can buy a mould, used, for the price of one.

FWIW- I run my set up wide open. I like frosty boolits.

[Shotgun Luckey]

I don't use a themometer for smelting and alloying...I don't get the melt that hot....just enough to melt and mix well...

I do use one for casting just to keep an eye on things to try and make sure I catch it before anything gets out of hand.

[Linstrum]

I have been casting since 1964 and I have never used a thermometer to get results that make me happy. Now with that said, I do monitor temperature by watching for things that are temperature related. Engine oil starts to smoke at around 450°F. Pine splints char quickly at around 600°F. Soot deposited from a smoky flame onto a nail or other small piece of steel disappears right around 700°F. Hardwood charcoal powder starts to glow orange and burn at about 750°F. Ash, oak, and hickory char quickly at 800°F. With your eyes accustomed to low light conditions you can see 900°F as a faint red glow. At 1000°F you can see a faint red glow in a lighted room.

A good remote pickup thermometer beats heck out of my methods fer sure! But keep in mind that folks have been casting boolits since around 1249 AD - that is over 750 years - and most of that time they cast without a thermometer since they hadn't been invented yet.

But better tools make for better results and if you want a thermometer there is absolutely no reason why not, so go for it!


rl441