Colt Walker pawl (hand) clearance

[CeeHoo]

Another entry level question! Is pawl of a Walker revolver supposed to clear arbor when hammer is cocked without cylinder in place? My Uberti doesn't do that and the pawl always sticks before half-cock. With cylinder in place this phenomenon, fortunately, doesn't occur as ratchets push the pawl back somewhat. It's also fairly easy to push the pawl with your fingertip if it's necessary to cycle the action field stripped.

When looking at relief cut on the arbor rear it seems to me the arbor might be slightly canted, when compared to pawl window in the frame. Is the arbor threaded? Assembly line worker at Uberti has tried to get some extra relief by filing the side of the pawl. Fitting seems very rough and there are all kinds of dents and scratches in the pawl tip. When it comes to timing, bolt (cylinder stop) goes into cylinder notches at the very same time when hammer reaches full cock. According to discussion here, this is correct for open top. Bolt drop is fairly late, however, and I guess the bolt is partially over the notches when drop occurs.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?292734-How-to-time-a-1860-pietta-cap-amp-ball-revolver&p=3457523&viewfull=1#post3457523

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https://img.aijaa.com/b/00262/14662888.jpg

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00766/14662889.jpg

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00503/14662890.jpg

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[Der Gebirgsjager]

The pawl/hand is almost always filed to some extent to get it to fit properly through the window. Filing on the side of the hand reduces it thickness and determines how far through the window it can extend to contact the ratchet. The parts are mass produced to close in size and filed to fit and function. This is normal. When the cylinder is installed the hand contacts the ratchet because it is pushed forward by the attached leaf spring. When the cylinder is not in place, naturally the hand is pushed forward a bit more, and is easy to push in with the finger and will pop back out again, and this is also normal. These characteristics are present in most single action revolvers.

The tip of your pistol's hand does look chewed up, but if it functions I'd continue to use it. if it bothers you, you can replace it fairly easily, but will have to file the new part to get it to fit and function properly. Again, as long as the pistol is functioning properly, I wouldn't worry about it, but you could obtain a spare part to keep in reserve. It takes experience to fit the hand correctly, and is learned by doing a few installations. It takes patience, and is a "cut and try" job.

From your description, the timing sounds very good. It is very difficult to get the bolt to enter the slot in the cylinder exactly when the hammer reaches full cock. On most single action revolvers the bolt drops early and a ring develops on the exterior of the cylinder from the bolt dragging on the surface until it enters the slot.

[CeeHoo]

Thanks for thorough explanation. I'm leaving the revolver as is. Buying a few spare parts sounds like a good plan though.

As to bolt drop timing, it can be seen here pretty well. It is very similar to all chambers.

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00984/14667069.jpg

[Gtek]

I would not be able to sleep at night with that left like that. I would VERY carefully dress that arbor to flush and then probably stone/320 wet paper and polish and radius hand tip and edges (polish as in smoothing- not removing every little line). Usually find these pieces to be soft and it is machining itself in and out, the rollover is eating more than need be. I also use synthetic grease on rear of cylinder in ratchet area, once again just me.

[CeeHoo]

Thanks for the tip. I've now had a couple of range sessions with this revolver and unless I manage drop a spent cap inside the action the lockwork is working smoothly and precisely as is. The Italian nipples (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?371817-Uberti-Walker-nipples&p=4514657&viewfull=1#post4514657) aren't too good though and usually there's at least one misfire per cylinder where second hammer blow is needed.

As to pawl or its window actually, looks like the guys at Uberti have cut or drilled it way higher than what it looks from the outside. After the latest session I noticed a pin hole above the window where steel is paper-thin. Not that it would have a real effect on reliability though, unless the rest is going to come loose and wandering burr jams the ratchet.

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00199/14715210.jpg

[Bent Ramrod]

The Walkers look big, heavy and stout, but there isn’t much “meat” on the frame where the cuts and threaded holes are made for the mechanism and the cylinder arbor. The arbor on my ASM Walker actually came loose on the threads from shooting; I had to remove the lock screw, unscrew the wobbly arbor, and glue the threads back together with JB Weld. It has a small hole where the cutter shaved through like yours does, as well. Doesn’t seem to hurt function and the glue job is holding fast (knock on wood).

According to Kuhnhausen’s Colt SAA Gunsmithing Book, the assemblers were expected to time nine revolvers in an hour. I imagine things can’t be much different at Uberti. Unless your gun’s function is sticky or balky in some way, I would recommend leaving it alone and just shooting it. The nicks and gouges you see are what happens when the newly-fitted gun is getting “broken in” by cycling and use. I’d rather have it rough inside with good timing and lockup than have it elegantly polished and sloppy in function from the extra clearance.