9mm Makarov

[Echo]

I just bought a CZ 82 in 9Mak, cast some boolits for it (Lee 2-banger) and need to size them, as there is some flash on the base on many of the boolits. The sprue plate seems too loose, and the LH screw holding it in is fairly unmovable. Does anyone make a die to screw in my RC press so I can use the Lee system, without paying $40+ for a custom Lee?

[Conditor22]

Not less than $40 initially but all future sizes would be $17.25 of less if you have a pushrod for the caliber. NOE has a LARGE selection and Al is a great person to do business with.

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=104_410 $39.95

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=104_400&products_id=2544 $9.75 (or whatever size you need

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=104_400&products_id=2545 or you can use any LEE .357 push rod $7.50

once you have the Push Through Size Die Body new size bushings are only $9.75 if you don't have a push rod in that caliber they are only $7.50

the also sell nose sizing bushings that fit the Push Through Size Die Body

they are much easier to store than the Lee

https://i.imgur.com/MYiNxaq.jpg

my lee boolits work as dropped with a thin powdercoat on them.

** I made all my 9x18 brass out of nickel 9x19 to make it easier for me to tell the difference

my MAKAROV 9MM 9X18 BULGARIA 1942 slugs out at 366 so I use the 366Cal .367 Body

It takes a little effort but you can break the sprue screw loose, drill and tap a set screw on the side of the mold (like RCBS) and your golden or ---- return the mold for another one.if the sprue screw shoulder is to long add another spring washer

[2wheelDuke]

I bought a Lee sizer in .358 and honed it out myself with sandpaper turned by a hand drill.

[Echo]

Thanks, guys - I'll do SOMETHING...

[Namerifrats]

I have a CZ82 also. I cast some for it years ago. Never any issues. Read in a few places that you shouldn't fire cast bullets through a firearm with polygonal rifling like the CZ82. I only fired 60 or so cast bullets through mine before I read that. Never noticed any leading or a accuracy issues with them though.

[Dragonheart]

I first would soak you mold in Kroil Oil to loosen a stubborn screw. As suggested I would purchase a Lee push through sizing die and polish it out with buffing compound or diamond paste on a wood dowel with the die chucked up in a lathe or drill press. I also agree you should not fire cast bullets in a polygonal rifled barrel as you will get recessive leading. If the bullets are powder coated it is not a problem as you have created a polymer jacket on the casting. The NOE system works, but is going to be a more expensive startup unless you are going to size several calibers.

[Conditor22]

the best release agent noted on a machinist forum is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF

[dondiego]

I first would soak you mold in Kroil Oil to loosen a stubborn screw. As suggested I would purchase a Lee push through sizing die and polish it out with buffing compound or diamond paste on a wood dowel with the die chucked up in a lathe or drill press. I also agree you should not fire cast bullets in a polygonal rifled barrel as you will get recessive leading. If the bullets are powder coated it is not a problem as you have created a polymer jacket on the casting. The NOE system works, but is going to be a more expensive startup unless you are going to size several calibers.

I have shot my two polyganally rifled pistols with cast and got NO leading. One Glock and one H&K

[Dragonheart]

Even in a regular rifled barrel there is a thin deposit of lead with cast, just as there is a coating of copper when jacketed bullets are used. A polygonal rifled barrel is more aggressive and will build up faster. The worst leaded barrel I have ever seen was from a Glock; it took hours of electrolysis to remove the lead. On visual inspection the barrel didn't look bad as lead tends to deposit and get polished so it resembles a clean barrel. The build up reduces performance and can create excessive pressure and that is the danger the manufactures warn about. If you chemically test the barrel you will find lead, but it's your nail so drive it as you wish.

[Wayne Smith]

I've had Makarov's and my CZ82 for years, long enough ago that Buckshot made me a H&I die for them. I think Lathesmith will do the same now.

[fatelk]

I have a pair of CZ82 pistols and shot lead bullets in the for years, many, many hundreds with never a problem. Same with my Glock, if you do it right there’s no problems.

I powder coat now and that’s even better. I had a custom die made for a Lyman 450, but now that I powder coat I need to buy a .366 push through die. I sure wish Lee would make one as a standard item. Sooner or later I’m going to break down and start buying NOE sizers. I actually had a cart full of sizers recently when they had a sale, but couldn’t get the checkout to work and gave up.

[Conditor22]

9 x 18 chrome boolits in nickel cases ----Lone ranger :)

https://i.imgur.com/XwPJ4j0.jpg

[W.R.Buchanan]

All this hub bub about Polygonal Rifling has me all worked up.

First; Glocks don't have polygonal Rifling, no matter what Glock says. They have rifling with Rounded Lands instead of Square Lands.

Second: True Polygonal Rifling has been around since the end of the 18th century. It looks like a circle with 4 or 5 flats on the circumference then twisted to obtain the spin.

CZ82's have true Polygonal Rifling. Glocks don't! I have several of both.

Not firing lead boolits in Glocks is also serious BS and I have had a "Certified Glock Armorer" inform me that doing so would result in blowing the gun up. I asked him when it was going to happen as I had been doing it for 20 years?, and he said it could happen at any time. I indicated that he had no idea what he was talking about, and his retort was "he was a Certified Glock Armorer!" I rest my case!

Also for those who missed it, there is a sticky in the Pistol Forum entitled "The Truth about Glocks and Cast." reading it should clear up any problems in this area.

As far as Polygonal rifling goes,,, it was created to reduce or eliminate leading in large caliber rifles, which were prone to barrel leading.

Powder Coating boolits eliminates leading because you are essentially jacketing the boolit with a Polymer Jacket. Copper Jacketed bullets don't lead barrels and neither do Polymer Jacketed boolits. Works great!

Randy

[Dragonheart]

DEFINITION: Polygonal rifling (/pəˈlɪɡənəl/ pə-LIG-ə-nəl) is a type of gun barrel rifling where the traditional sharp-edged lands and grooves are replaced by less-edged "hills and valleys" in a polygonal pattern, usually taking the form of a hexagon or octagon.

If you shoot properly coated, cured and sized PC bullets it is a non-issue anyway, so don't blow a gasket.

[dondiego]

Even in a regular rifled barrel there is a thin deposit of lead with cast, just as there is a coating of copper when jacketed bullets are used. A polygonal rifled barrel is more aggressive and will build up faster. The worst leaded barrel I have ever seen was from a Glock; it took hours of electrolysis to remove the lead. On visual inspection the barrel didn't look bad as lead tends to deposit and get polished so it resembles a clean barrel. The build up reduces performance and can create excessive pressure and that is the danger the manufactures warn about. If you chemically test the barrel you will find lead, but it's your nail so drive it as you wish.

Electrolysis is probably the slowest way to remove lead. Lead doesn't build up in my barrels. I have shot quite a few rounds to prove that.

[Dragonheart]

Electrolysis is probably the slowest way to remove lead. Lead doesn't build up in my barrels. I have shot quite a few rounds to prove that.

Have you ever tried electrolysis to remove lead or copper? On light deposits it is removed fairly fast and safely; with a heavily leaded barrel it can take hours, but it is completely removed with little effort.

If you have ever fired lead or copper projectiles then there are lead or copper deposits in the barrel.

[dondiego]

Have you ever tried electrolysis to remove lead or copper? On light deposits it is removed fairly fast and safely; with a heavily leaded barrel it can take hours, but it is completely removed with little effort.

If you have ever fired lead or copper projectiles then there are lead or copper deposits in the barrel.

I own an Outer's Foul Out.........I also own Kroil and ChoreBoy.

[Dragonheart]

All three work quite well, but the best option is Powder Coating your bullets so there is no metal contact with the barrel and eliminate the problem all together.

[Yodogsandman]

I have a Lyman mold which casts at .3655". I don't size them and just tumble lube in Lee Liquid Alox. I cant shoot as well as this shoots with a MAX load of AA5.

[randyrat]

I just bought a CZ 82 in 9Mak, cast some boolits for it (Lee 2-banger) and need to size them, as there is some flash on the base on many of the boolits. The sprue plate seems too loose, and the LH screw holding it in is fairly unmovable. Does anyone make a die to screw in my RC press so I can use the Lee system, without paying $40+ for a custom Lee?

I had one Lee mold that did that. I put it in a vice and found the perfect fit Phillips and broke it loose..I used blue locktite when I tightened it up to help keep it tight. You could place a bit of JB weld in there if needed also to take up space.

[armexman]

Not true Boolit Master; 95% of my shooting with CZ82 has been with Pb cast boolits
and I’ve never experienced any leading. Then again I only shoot lead in my Glocks.
Remember, fit is king. HTH

[Conditor22]

remember that some of the new lee sprue screws loosen clockwise. It's marked on the mold.

[Keith 429421]

I also have shot thousands of cast bullets thru my Glocks in 9mm and 40 SW. I also have shot several hundred cast lead bullets from my Russian Makarov. I clean my guns and watch for leading . I also load only mid range loads for these pistols with MV under 900-950 fps that will cycle the action I use jacketed rounds for hotter loads

I have reloaded a thousand 9mm Makarov years ago with 9 mm cases trimmed down to the Glocks height. I still have a few hundred in a ammo can left to shoot. My last 9mm bullets are here in my hand from Midway about 30 of them left 9mm Makarov 93 Gr. RN .365 I've had them at least 20 years and they probably cost 25 dollars. Ill be getting a mould for the Makarov later . I loaded my bullets on a Dillon 550 with the Makarov conversion and the proper powder funnel neck expander. I have shot the Makarov only now and then as the brass is rare compared to other calibers so I have to hunt for every case. I wanted to see Dillon offer a 9mm Makarov conversion for the square Deal press but there's not enough interest . My Makarov is the 10 shot model. I paid about 139 for it at a gun show new in the 90's . It came with aftermarket magazines and was a Jam-O-Matic the same with a friend who also got one, finally we found some original Russian 10 round magazines which turned the Jam-O-Matics turned into reliable fun shooters with a little more punch then a .380 and less then a 9mm Luger. In the picture you can see the similarities of the M93 Gr Makarov bullets I loaded and a 9mm Lee 125 RN bullet both have a very small and shallow lube grove .

245933

[bbogue1]

the best release agent noted on a machinist forum is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF Look up DIY KROIL. It is a mixture of about 50% Acetone and 50%regular (not synthetic) Dot 4 ATF (the dot doesn't matter as long as it is not synthetic). The Acetone allows the ATF to get into tiny, tiny crevaces. Drip some on, let it sit (I usually come back a few hours later). Put some more on and tap it with a hammer. Let it sit. Be sure you have the correct sized screwdriver with a NEW bit or eng. Try unscrewing it with steady pressure keeping the screwdriver firmly pressed into the screw. No luck? put more on and let it sit. Usually this DIY Kroil will work the first time. The issue is an overtightened steel screw in an aluminum block. The aluminum will react to pressure, making it hard to unscrew. Best bet is to call Lee about returning it.