Complete noob tips

[weeple2000]

I have been posting a few threads about my woes getting started casting. I appreciate all the help I have gotten. Tonight I had some good success casting boolits. I am using a Lee 420 pot with their 6 cavity H&G clone 200 grain SWC.

I have this figured out pretty good now. This particular mold at least. I reread this section again today while I was waiting for my alloy to come up to temp (although like I mentioned I am not using a thermometer yet).

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_2_Casting101.htm

Someone here suggested that I fill each cavity in my mold individually. What a difference that makes. I also paid close attention to the flow that I had coming from my spout. I noticed the best results with a higher flow rate. I tried to keep my mold from getting too hot and it helped the boolits to drop easier. I gave it a few seconds before cutting the sprue after it cooled, again a few seconds before opening the mold to trap the boolits out, and a few seconds with the mold left open before filling the next batch.

I tried to keep my alloy hot and my mold from getting too hot. I can't wait to have my PID. I also read somewhere that the pot would regulate flow better half full, so that was another thing I tried.

[Traffer]

I have been posting a few threads about my woes getting started casting. I appreciate all the help I have gotten. Tonight I had some good success casting boolits. I am using a Lee 420 pot with their 6 cavity H&G clone 200 grain SWC.

I have this figured out pretty good now. This particular mold at least. I reread this section again today while I was waiting for my alloy to come up to temp (although like I mentioned I am not using a thermometer yet).

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_2_Casting101.htm

Someone here suggested that I fill each cavity in my mold individually. What a difference that makes. I also paid close attention to the flow that I had coming from my spout. I noticed the best results with a higher flow rate. I tried to keep my mold from getting too hot and it helped the boolits to drop easier. I gave it a few seconds before cutting the sprue after it cooled, again a few seconds before opening the mold to trap the boolits out, and a few seconds with the mold left open before filling the next batch.

I tried to keep my alloy hot and my mold from getting too hot. I can't wait to have my PID. I also read somewhere that the pot would regulate flow better half full, so that was another thing I tried.
You already know more than I do.

[weeple2000]

Where in WI are you?

[Traffer]

Where in WI are you?

Stevens Point.

[GregLaROCHE]

I have been casting for over a year now and still haven’t bought a thermometer for my pot. I figure I have better places to spend my reloading budget. In the future I hope to get a PID too. For the time being I heat to the point where the boolits start to frost and then back off a bit. With practice, I am getting right on more and more. You can see how the alloy flows when it is at the right temperature. Keep track of your mold temperature too. You have to heat it up, but not let it get too hot. I put mine above the pot to warm it up. I use the wet towel method to set the base on to cool the mold off.

[Petrol & Powder]

I purchased a thermometer, used it a few times and it now sits on the shelf.
If the bullets start getting frosty looking I back the heat off a bit. That takes care of the temperature question.

As for the pace that the OP has adopted, if that works for him then great. I move along a bit quicker and see no advantage in slowing down my cadence. I use iron molds and that may allow a little faster pace.

[OS OK]

The way the OP has it figured out right now will 'morph' given some time...things will be different in a month or less as his skill set sharpens...especially that cadence.

[mozeppa]

The way the OP has it figured out right now will 'morph' given some time...things will be different in a month or less as his skill set sharpens...especially that cadence.

i thought the same!
its like golf...i struggle...then one day it all came together and shot 71 (yes for 18) next dadburned day shot 96.

so much for having it pretty well figured out.

[Hairy Dawg]

I cast for many years without a thermometer, pid, or any other temp. aid. The best thing for my casting was adding the pid and mold thermometer. I can now bring my mold up to the exact temp. for casting, and the pot will be the perfect temp every time.

95% of the weight variance on my 242 grain 30 cal. boolits are less than 1 grain, and that's over multiple castings. To reference that to what I had in the past, my previous castings without pid & mold thermometer casting 124 grain 9mm boolits had a 3+ grain variance.

[OS OK]

i thought the same!
its like golf...i struggle...then one day it all came together and shot 71 (yes for 18) next dadburned day shot 96.

so much for having it pretty well figured out.

[smilie=b: "I can do this!" [smilie=b: "I can do this!"[smilie=b: "I can do this!"[smilie=b:

[reddog81]

Experience does make a huge difference. I pretty much just pay attention to how fast the sprue is cooling and adjust based on that. I've got a thermometer but I couldn't tell you where it's at without having to look for it.

Having a good flow is helpful. I can tell when the pot is starting to need be refilled by watching for the stream to start to weaken, but for me that's when there's only about an inch or 1.5" on the bottom. Trying to keep the pot halfway full would be too much work.

I was casting with an NOE H&G 68 clone the other day and just used one steady stream to fill the 4 cavities. Once you get the rhythm down its easier to just flick your wrist and move to the next hole rather than start and stop the pour.

With all of that said, the only thing that really matters is finding the method that works best for you and your setup. After a couple casting sessions the whole process is much easier and more logical.

[Gtek]

If the disease progresses and then you will find yourself having enough molds that you may forget what THAT ONE LIKED! I started a notebook years ago and it seems to help even though my memory gets much better with age, huhmmmmm! Welcome to the madness.

[Bazoo]

Rate of pour is something that took me a while to figure out as an important variable. Also, Having a faster pour and about 1/2 of freefall helps in fillout and with surface inclusions. At least for a couple moulds that otherwise was ornery.

Having notes on each mould in regards to what it likes is important to keep from making the same mistakes over again.

[Peregrine]

I ladle pour from an open pot over a flame, and I just trashed my second thermometer from dribbling alloy on it until the glass ultimately cracked and it seized up. I had wrecked by first one my very first smelting session where I ran out of light and was pouring ingots in the dark not wanting to stop, when I managed to put it on the ground to get it out of my way and stepped on it breaking the stem off.

At $30 each before tax, shipping, and conversion into Canadian pesos thermometers are quickly becoming one of my major unrecoverable expenses. :razz:

I'm not sure I want to buy an electric pot, and I've pulled a few friends into the casting game, so being more careful and not dribbling lead is easier said then done with more than one person to the pot, especially since we tend to wear thick thermal gloves.

The next session we'll just let the moulds tell us where the temperature need to be, and I'm a decent judge of that but I need to change something up long term.

I'm pretty happy with the temperature control I have right now with my burner and nice heavy pot, but would like the ability to quantify the sweet spot for given moulds.

Advice? Could I rig up a digital solution for a big 'ol pot holding 75ish pounds of melt?

[Dusty Bannister]

could I suggest that you remove the thermometer from the pot before pouring ingots. Also have a shelf or table available for the smelting tools so they are not under foot where you can trip and fall and really burn yourself with hot lead. Avoid a crowd when smelting. They do not need to stand around breathing the smoke. Be careful and avoid a serious incident. So far only two thermometers, no skin or clothing yet. Dusty

[Peregrine]

Well I don't see any reason to use a thermometer while smelting anymore, and I can assure you if someone is around me when I'm pouring lead they're working a mould of their own or otherwise helping.

I've learned fast since then and indeed do have a place for my tools, but having a thermometer stuck in a pot where two people are ladling out of gets crowded fast and I imagine a replacement would only make it several sessions unscathed.

I can't say that clothing has escaped unscathed, trying to get it to behave I brought a hot mould close to my chest to adjust the tension on a spur plate with a wrench, and didn't account for the fact I wasn't wearing my usual lab coat or combat jacket but a synthetic/down coat and melted a hole right through it. Feathers everywhere and that was a Christmas gift. :cry:

But with proper eyewear, and bushy beard I've managed to keep what little good looks I had going in. Sometimes I can't be bothered to wear long sleeves though, and the odd piece of splatter my arms pick up isn't enough to scare me off. I do also have a couple of pairs of shoes with some sparkles now. :p

Good thermal gloves definitely are worthwhile though.

[weeple2000]

I picked up a welding apron, gloves, and sleeves pretty cheap. Any time I'm near hot lead I'll wear those, as well as a full face shield. I might take a glove off to look at my watch or phone but I'll either have my hand under my table, or else I'll get up from my table and stand back a bit.

[David2011]

I cast for many years without a thermometer, pid, or any other temp. aid. The best thing for my casting was adding the pid and mold thermometer. I can now bring my mold up to the exact temp. for casting, and the pot will be the perfect temp every time.

95% of the weight variance on my 242 grain 30 cal. boolits are less than 1 grain, and that's over multiple castings. To reference that to what I had in the past, my previous castings without pid & mold thermometer casting 124 grain 9mm boolits had a 3+ grain variance.

Aaack! Zis is ART! Vat are you doink making it SCIENTIFIC?

After learning the old way for years working by the numbers almost seems like cheating but kudos to you for paying attention and decoding a combination that works for you. Wish I had known to do the same.

[Peregrine]

I picked up a welding apron, gloves, and sleeves pretty cheap. Any time I'm near hot lead I'll wear those, as well as a full face shield. I might take a glove off to look at my watch or phone but I'll either have my hand under my table, or else I'll get up from my table and stand back a bit.

Go ahead and take what precautions you see fit but the latter half of that is total overkill.

The most important thing is just to be smart and not chuck or stick anything that might have moisture on or in it under the surface of molten metal. If you are going to add an ingot to a pot hold it at the surface until it warms up instead of just dropping it in, the rumbling and bubbling of you don't do so will be enough to deter you.

That and obviously avoid actually throwing anything in the pot and gently lay it in to avoid splashing.
Common sense.

[GhostHawk]

Confidence is the key, but don't let it let you forget how you got there.

[Three44s]

The OP began this thread by mentioning begining to cast with a six banger mold. I believe that in of itself complicates learning.

Less cavities would be better for just starting out.

Three44s

[country gent]

I will add this little tid bit to the mix.


When casting, cast. When sorting, sort don't try to both at the same time.

[MyFlatline]

I only use a thermometer for smelting, I don't always know what is mixed in with the lead.

+1 on concentration.

[reddog81]

When casting, cast. When sorting, sort don't try to both at the same time.

But you do need to pay attention to what your mold is dropping. I almost always pay attention to the base of the bullet. Once my bullets are coming out good then 95% or more will remain satisfactory if the base has good fillout. You can get a good idea of how hot the mold and spruce plate are just by watching for complete fill out right under the spruce plate. There's no point in casting if you're going to just turn around and toss half the bullets back into the pot.

[Echo]

I also read somewhere that the pot would regulate flow better half full, so that was another thing I tried.
I try to keep my pot FULL - when it drops down enough, another ingot goes in. I believe this keeps a more constant head of pressure, and it also increases the thermal inertia so the introduction of a (pre-warmed on the lip of the furnace) ingot doesn't alter the temp much. Give thaat a try...