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Taylor
12-26-2018, 07:48 AM
Got one for Christmas. Zeny Cut 50. It's ..apparently 110 or 220. It did not come with a power cord plug. I am confused as...the pitiful instructions are using the word "pressed air" and " pressed gas". I have never owned a plasma cutter and I am feeling dumb as a rock.

Guy's, I need help and lots of it. Tell me things....please. I know nothing! ( this is were there should be a picture of Sgt Schultz). 110v is how I wish to use it.

rancher1913
12-26-2018, 08:16 AM
you will need to find out if its 110 or 220, should be a plate on it somewhere that tells that. should be some wire connections on the back somewhere that you hook a wire to, with out a photo its hard to show you. the pressed air is really compressed air from an air compressor and you will need to regulate how much goes in somehow, should be a air port on the back, again no pitcher makes it hard to guess.

Preacher Jim
12-26-2018, 08:17 AM
Taylor mine is similar and I use my compressor or a tank of air I pump from compressor.
Thank does not last long but compressor will keep it cutting good. You will enjoy that tool once you get the hang of it.
Is there a hook up guide on inside of cover plate? Mine has one.

Taylor
12-26-2018, 08:25 AM
Didn't look. Frustration set in when I looked at the paperwork, **** chinese.

Wayne Smith
12-26-2018, 09:00 AM
Should be a 110/220 wiring diagram on the inside of the cover of the wire. How the motor is wired determines 110 v 220 as long as the motor is wired for it. That's all I can tell you, sorry. I empathize.

trapper9260
12-26-2018, 09:05 AM
When you use it make sure you have alot of ventilation because for long term use with out it you could get black lung from it. I use to use one at one of the jobs I had.Better off with a air compressor

HATCH
12-26-2018, 09:18 AM
Brown or Red = Line
Blue or Black = Neutral
Two-Tone Green/Yellow = Ground

that is what I gathered from the web

SeabeeMan
12-26-2018, 09:34 AM
As other's have said, there should be a wiring schematic on the device somewhere, and it may well be both voltages depending on how you do it. If at all possible, wire it for 220.

There is definitely an air hookup somewhere, probably on the back. Mine has a regulator built into the front panel but it isn't uncommon to put a regulator and filter right on the back of the unit, just a cheapo harbor freight one will do. These things HATE moist air and you're going to want to be able to adjust the pressure at the unit.

Learn to maintain about 1/8" gap between the piece and the tip for the cleanest results. There are standoff clips depending on the model, but they get in the way as much as they help. And buy LOTS of consumables. As soon as you swap tips, you'll find that the electrode goes. And as soon as you have that taken care of, you'll get careless and crack the cup. Make sure everything is gently hand tight at the consumable end or you'll go through them faster.

I love mine and rarely touch my oxy-acetylene rig anymore, but they do have a learning curve.

SeabeeMan
12-26-2018, 09:36 AM
Also, be aware of where your cords are laying. I rebuilt my snowmobile trailer over the summer and all of a sudden my plasma wasn't cutting very well. Swapped multiple sets of electrodes, checked the air, connections, etc. After tearing the harness to the gun apart, I found a small piece of slag had gone into the two wires and was intermittently shorting them out. I had pulled them under my cutting area and blown a piece of slag right into the tubes, thankfully missing the air hose.

labradigger1
12-26-2018, 10:33 AM
Some models have built in air compressors, if not dry air is a must have for proper operation.

Taylor
12-26-2018, 05:23 PM
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Taylor
12-26-2018, 05:25 PM
There is no access panel. Would have to remove entire cover?

rancher1913
12-26-2018, 05:55 PM
does paperwork have a wiring schmatic you could post a photo of. at least it has a regulator already. looks like your air supply hooks to the "in" or the tail of an arrow on the regulator, the "out" or point of an arrow should run from regulator down to the barb connection that says gas. the arrow will point the way the gas should flow. my guess from looking at the wires is that it is wired for 220, the one with the stackon loop is the ground, but that is only a GUESS based on the wire colors.

rancher1913
12-26-2018, 06:02 PM
the front of the unit, right hand port is for ground connection of gun, the middle looks to be the switch and should be a twist lock connection?, the left appears to be the positive/air supply to gun.

Taylor
12-26-2018, 06:45 PM
does paperwork have a wiring schmatic you could post a photo of. at least it has a regulator already. looks like your air supply hooks to the "in" or the tail of an arrow on the regulator, the "out" or point of an arrow should run from regulator down to the barb connection that says gas. the arrow will point the way the gas should flow. my guess from looking at the wires is that it is wired for 220, the one with the stackon loop is the ground, but that is only a GUESS based on the wire colors.

No schematic, it will have to be 110. I have no 220 in my shop, the wiring will not support one either.

castalott
12-26-2018, 06:51 PM
Mine has to have a good ground and I mean that in spades. It won't cut very thick or fast but is fantastic in places....

rl69
12-26-2018, 06:57 PM
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1a7m8gP+3S.pdf

See if this helps go to section 3 for wiring.

labradigger1
12-26-2018, 08:47 PM
I did some quick research on the cut50, they need to be wired 110 OR 220, 220 will be needed if cutting 1/2” steel and with less amps the duty cycle jumps from 60% to 100% per the manufacturer.
Lots of reviews and comments regarding g the cut50. Most people like it except the fact that you have to make contact to start the arc. This is a small price to pay without spending a few hundred more dollars.
eBay has them for around $180 shipped and one seller has them for like $65 direct from China, not sue what customs and duty’s would tack on.
Let us know how you like it.

rancher1913
12-26-2018, 10:15 PM
rl69 found it for you. looks like it "knows" which way you wire it electronicly so just put a 110 end on it.

3.1 - WIRING
Upon unpacking your Ramsond CUT series plasma cutter, you will notice that the unit is not equipped with
wall plug. This is done to accommodate either the 110V or 220V configuration. The CUT series is a dual
voltage machine. There is no switch for changing the power between 110 and 220 V, as the machine
automatically detects the voltage.
CAUTION
Due to the current draw (Amp), this unit should NOT be connected to the standard household 110V outlet.
A 30 Amp circuit is required for 110V operation and a 20 Amp circuit for 220V operation.

looks like you will need to add a dedicated outlet for it with properly sized wires, 30 amp can get by with 12 awg but you would be better going with 10awg. if you use it on a regular 110 outlet for any length of time your wires could overheat and short out but if your careful you could probably do quick jobs ok.

you can get 30amp twist lock plugs, hardwire one end into panel and your good to go, do not use this on 15 amp outlets, they have 2 parallel slots, you could try like I said above on a 20 amp outlet, they have 2 perpendicular slots

Sweetpea
12-27-2018, 12:20 AM
I would not do 30a on 12 wire, 10 wire minimum.

However, if you do have a single outlet on a circuit, with 12 wire, you can run it on 220, just change the breaker.

Taylor
12-27-2018, 07:45 AM
232781 This what I'm thinking.

One reason I never bought one for myself is that I didn't think I had an electrical system that would support it. What I did when I built my shop, is run 12ga romex from an outside outlet, buried underground to my building. Into a fuse box. It was just to be used for lights and basic tools.

I am not an electrician and have very little understanding of it.

OS OK
12-27-2018, 08:37 AM
When you get past your power problem...

This kid does a pretty good treatise on use, operating tips, troubleshooting and maintenance...if you can deal with his long winded approach.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTGpyYqR32k

Taylor
12-27-2018, 08:50 AM
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1a7m8gP+3S.pdf

See if this helps go to section 3 for wiring.

I got nothing like that....nothing

justashooter
12-27-2018, 06:02 PM
plasma cutters require dried air. if any moisture is in the air your nozzles and tips will have very short life. you will have to get used to keeping your torch close to the work to maintain the ground and keep the arc open. i do see a dryer in your photo. the big advantage to plasma is the indifference ot material chemistry. it will cut aluminum, steel, stainless, iron castings, etc.

rl69
12-27-2018, 08:29 PM
I got nothing like that....nothing


LOL Well you got it now :) hope it helps

rancher1913
12-27-2018, 10:12 PM
that photo of the plug you posted is what they specifically say not to use. from your newest post it sounds like you need to not do anything with the unit until you can get an electrician to run a wire for it. from what you describe, this is a fire waiting to happen, sorry, really wish I could help more.

HATCH
12-27-2018, 10:44 PM
I would run 220v
I would NOT run 30 amps @110 for sure.

David2011
12-28-2018, 01:15 AM
Sorry but I have to disagree with the 110V/30A naysayers. Many RVs and most most medium sized boats are wired with 30A 110V shore power. I’ve owned several boats and RVs so wired. The breakers are readily available and as long as the wire gauge serving the outlet is 10 gauge there should be no issue. Yes, 220 is more efficient but the OP said he doesn’t have 220 in his shop.

rancher1913
12-28-2018, 06:06 AM
true but he also stated that he added the shop circuit from an another on his house and used romex underground, that right there is going to cause problems down the road with out adding the plasma to it. the only safe way to do this is run a new wire from the house panel and if you are doing that, why run a 110 circuit when the cost will be about the same for a 220 and you will get the cost savings from the 220 for the life of the machine.

labradigger1
12-28-2018, 07:34 AM
It is unknown what sized amp panel his home has that is feeding his garage/shed. If he has say a 200 amp panel in the home and if he has enough load space left in it he could run a double 60 amp breaker from the panel to a new sub panel in the garage. This will be one of 2 ways for the op to get proper power requirements to his shed. The other is a new service and separate bill.

The plasma is not a huge amp load machine but with only a 12 awg line feeding his building he should not use it for the plasma. The 12 awg wire is 2 small and if the home panel breaker does not trip he is very liable for overheating an fire hazard.

I would run a new wire properly sized from the home panel to a sub panel in the shop. From there 120 volt circuits for lights and receptacles and a dedicated 220 volt single phase line for the plasma. Also please consider future needs, will you ever be running a welder or air compressor? Both of these units will need to be 220 volt circuits if you want anything of any real capabilities.

I know the op said he didn’t know much about electric but depending where he is, code requirements may require a licensed contractor to do the work, if not, this work is certainly within the realm of a handy homeowner.

Taylor
12-28-2018, 08:06 AM
So far it sounds as though I have a tool I cannot use. I do run a 110 mig and a small air compressor. Band saw, table saw, drill press. The toaster oven for my powder coat bullets. And of course my casting pots. Oh yeah, a 2x48 belt sander, 1x30 belt sander and a wire wheel. No issues so far. I have a fuse box not a breaker box. The round glass kind, that I may never be able to find anymore should I need one.
232825

lightman
12-28-2018, 10:16 AM
As a retired electrician I'll 2nd the advice to call an electrical to run a more substantial circuit to the shop. While simple electrical jobs are not hard to do, if you don't know how you don't know how. I usually recommend running a minimum 60 amp circuit to home shops. Even if it starts out as lights only for storage shops tend to grow. With his description there almost has to be voltage drop issues that he is not aware of yet.

I would love to have a nice plasma cutter if I was still able to do that kind of work. That and a wire welder.

Taylor
12-28-2018, 05:17 PM
Lightman, I think you hit the nail on the head. As far as the shop. It's beginning and it's use now. You been sneakin' 'round in my back yard? If my compressor is cold it will trip the zip strip I have it plugged in to.

So the best thing would be to run power from the weather head (house) to the shop. And replace fuse box with a breaker box. Am I tracking? Electrician's ain't cheap.

lightman
12-28-2018, 05:26 PM
Lightman, I think you hit the nail on the head. As far as the shop. It's beginning and it's use now. You been sneakin' 'round in my back yard? If my compressor is cold it will trip the zip strip I have it plugged in to.

So the best thing would be to run power from the weather head (house) to the shop. And replace fuse box with a breaker box. Am I tracking? Electrician's ain't cheap.

You really would not come from the weatherhead but probably from the breaker box. Pretty often its more of a challenge to gain access than to do the actual electrical. You would need to look inside the breaker box to determine if you have enough extra places to add to. Its also possible to add a breaker box under the meter. There are several ways to do this depending on what is already there.

1911sw45
12-28-2018, 05:44 PM
He has fuse box not a breaker box. Probably 100 amp service. I would replace to a 200amp service and breaker box and run a minimum of 100amp 240v out to the shop.

Taylor
12-28-2018, 06:01 PM
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labradigger1
12-28-2018, 07:50 PM
200 amp main in the house and buss fuse panel in garage?

Lloyd Smale
12-29-2018, 06:40 AM
take the time to run a dedicated 220 volt breaker and circuit and do it right. Duty cycle is where its at when welding or with your plazma cutter. A welder or plazma cutter will cut more and cut more cleanly and easily with a better duty cycle. If you doubt this try wire feed welding on a 110 machine then try a 220 machine. Its night and day better with a 220 machine.

Taylor
12-29-2018, 07:23 AM
Gonna cost me money, ain't it?

rancher1913
12-29-2018, 08:31 AM
yes, but it will be money well spent. the resale value of your house will go up, you will not risk a fire, you will be able to run several things at once in the shop, and you will be able to use your new toy.

Taylor
12-29-2018, 08:39 AM
200 amp main in the house and buss fuse panel in garage?

Is that bad? Remember I am not an electrician. What size breaker box should I replace it with?

Taylor
12-29-2018, 08:43 AM
yes, but it will be money well spent. the resale value of your house will go up, you will not risk a fire, you will be able to run several things at once in the shop, and you will be able to use your new toy.

Good answer my friend. I'm relating this conversation to the wife, she said " I gave you a headache for Christmas, didn't I"? Both #2 son and wife knew I had been looking at these for awhile. Never bought one because I pretty much knew my shop would not power it. They had good intentions, can't fault them for that.

MrWolf
12-29-2018, 11:30 AM
I just had a 125 amp box installed in my pole barn that I had laying around. Used this as I will be the only one working in garage. Electrician ran power from the house panel. He also installed the power box for my emergency generator and hooked up an RV panel for me. Total cost was less than $1,750. Money well spent for me as I can run my own electric in pole barn.

labradigger1
12-29-2018, 11:53 AM
Is that bad? Remember I am not an electrician. What size breaker box should I replace it with?

Not bad, 200 amp panel in the home is a good thing, you will need a sub panel for the shop and larger wire ran to it from the home. Nothing wrong with the old buss fuse panels at all, instead of tripping/resetting the breaker you just change the fuse.
I am not an electrician but am a general contractor superintendent. I do have good knowledge and experience with electric though.

lightman
12-29-2018, 03:39 PM
Gonna cost me money, ain't it?

Yeah, afraid so.

From the pictures it looks like your panel is full or there may be one vacant space. I also don't recognize that brand so its probably pretty old and breakers may be hard to find for it. From the pictures it looks like it would be possible to add a panel under the meter. You would have to double the wire up under the lugs in the meter socket to do this. This is frowned upon and the lugs in your meter socket may not be big enough. Its also against code unless the lug is rated for this. But, I have done this before with no problems.
Another thing that you could consider would be to replace the meter socket with a meter main. Thats a meter socket with breaker places. Making it fit will be a problem because they are taller than your existing meter socket and having a roof mast type weatherhead makes it even more difficult.
I highly recommend talking with a local electrician. Search for one that will give you a free estimate. Talking with a city inspector may turn up a reputable guy that is less expensive than others. I was a licensed electrician and did part time work most of my adult life. Having a full time job with benefits allowed me to do quality work a little cheaper than the big guys.

jonp
12-30-2018, 12:14 PM
232781 This what I'm thinking.

One reason I never bought one for myself is that I didn't think I had an electrical system that would support it. What I did when I built my shop, is run 12ga romex from an outside outlet, buried underground to my building. Into a fuse box. It was just to be used for lights and basic tools.

I am not an electrician and have very little understanding of it.

I did the same thing when wiring my garage. I do run my cast melter, tools etc as well as the lights but didn't expect to run high current draws like that cutter so didn't wire it as such. Over the winter I switched the house from 100amp to 200amp with the box on the outside for the express purpose of running the 100amp to the garage and installing a sub box there. Since I took out the electric stove, furnace and water heater I have amperage to spare. Cost me $1,200 but that's cheaper than burning the house down.

Father-in-law is a commercial/industrial electrician and he highly recommended a sub box for the shop and be done with it if I was going to run a large air compressor or something like that cutter. If you bury the line make sure to do it right. All of the codes you need to know are online.

rl69
12-31-2018, 10:15 AM
It's hard for me to say what's best for you 800 miles away. But :) when I powered my shop,I ran a wire from my breaker box in the house,to a box in a shop. When it came time to power my barn I went with a new 125 amp service. I pay 25 bucks a month minimum. Runing a new service was a good bit cheaper and I have room for expansion if I need it in the future

Taylor
12-31-2018, 07:11 PM
Looks like I'm gonna call an electrician. Like you said, better than burning down the house.

MrWolf
01-01-2019, 11:28 AM
If all you are trying to do is run the plasma cutter because of 220 and don't need anything else, why not use a generator for the 220? My old contractor generator has a 220 plug on it. No idea if it makes a difference or not.

Smoke4320
01-01-2019, 11:57 AM
Like MrWolg if just thr plasma cutter and occasional use i would see if your generator on 220 v supplies enougth amps. Lot cheaper. If a lot of use do it right the first time