Primer Sealent

[repeat]

Does anyone use primer sealer on any reload?

Cast or not?

I have my ideas but would love to from hear long time reloader's opinions.
Thanks.

[Wolfer]

I never have. Ive considered dropping some reloads into a jar of water and periodically try one to see how long they could take it.
I suspect there’s lots of variance to come into play. Primer fit, brand etc

[Tripplebeards]

I bought a little bottle last year from cabelas and tried it on a few of my cast 44 mag loads for bear hunting. Painted the primer and the crimp around the boolit. I Kinda did a sloppy application job. I let them set for a year and they all went boom. I'm sure they would have even I didn't use the sealant. I'm going to load a few, apply primer sealant, and let the ammo sit in a jar of water for a couple days and see if they go bang.

Always wanted to try the stuff but never had a problem with ammo getting wet in the past and not firing just issues with poorly manufacturered defective primers that wouldn't ignite right out of the carton.

[crankycalico]

military sealant around the neck seems to be applied before the bullet is loaded, so I have a feeling just putting some on the outside may not do anything.

Around the primer may not be bad at all. Help mark different loads with different colors.

[Walks]

When I was a kid we painted a ring of red nail polish around the primer, of our Hunting ammo.
Did it make a difference ? I don't know.

[Tripplebeards]

military sealant around the neck seems to be applied before the bullet is loaded, so I have a feeling just putting some on the outside may not do anything.

Around the primer may not be bad at all. Help mark different loads with different colors.

I read that on my bottle. It said either way but I'm sure putting it on the inside of the case rim and seating the boolit while it's still wet is the ticket. I'm sure pressures would go up a hair doing so as well and changing accuracy by gluing the boolit in place with the sealant. Would have to test the groups after sealing to be sure. Probably not enough to make a difference.

[Wolfer]

In years past I’ve had cartridges go through the washer. I always took them out in the yard and shot them. Can’t remember one not going off but I’m talking about 50 yrs or more here so I can’t say for sure.

[country gent]

Im not sure painting the bullet before seating would get into the neck bullet joint. Im betting the mouth and tension would push it forward, and painting the neck inside it would get in the powder. The military sealant was an asphaltic varnish. The primer with the radius on the primer cup and pocket creates a vee to hold it and form a seal. On the case mouth a heavier than normal chamfer may create the same effect.

With the .002-.003 press fit most dies use for bullet tension I don't see a lot of water getting past the .200-.400 long joint with that tension, unless the water is pressurized.

I had thought about a lined primer stem to coat with the sealant, then when primer is set in its sides are coated and pressed in place the lining would then wipe excess off the base making for an even coating and possibly allowing 5-10 cases to be primed before reapplying. For the case mouth a pill bottle with a nylon brush ( similar to a neck lubing tool ) a small amount in the bottom push case in to touch surface and pull out with a twisting motion. This would apply the thin consistent coating inside the neck, a cotton bore mop might be better.

[Outpost75]

The material used for bullet sealant in the industry is called Black Lucas. A readily available commercial product which achieves the same purpose is:

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=22354

The primer sealant used by the US military was called Glidden Purple Indicator, which was a color tinted nitrocellulose lacquer. This can be applied with a paperclip inserting the end into the lacquer about 1/4" and withdrawing it to hold one drop of lacquer, then touching the end of the paperclip to the edge of the primer pocket so that the lacquer will flow around the primer by capillary action and by way of the tinting the sealant will be plainly visible. Any good brushing lacquer can be tinted with dyes, or you can buy tinted lacquer in various colors from a musical instrument supply house which supplies materials for finishing guitars.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/09/13/all-about-lacquers

[rking22]

Played around with sealant on shot loads for Creek fishing. Carried all one season shooting the loads that got wet(I can be a bit clumsy) from a quick dip when I got home. All went bang, but then so did the unsealed that I tested, so call it inconclusive. Now I did have about 30 41 special hunting loads take a trip thru the washer. Cast and GC using 2400 with no sealant, all went boom and were consistent about 2weeks after their swim. I think the wax lube along with a good crimp is a pretty good seal, if I did anything I would seal the primer and call it good.

[725]

I've used alox. Did it work? Never had a misfire.

[Wayne Smith]

On two separate occasions I have had 44-40 rounds loaded with BP go through multiple hours in a soapy water and ceramic bead mix in my vibratory tumbler. In each case I took them to the range and each shot as normal. I cannot think of a more severe test that does not disloge the bullet or primer. I gave up on even thinking of sealing primers or boolits. I also realized the usefulness of a good crimp!

[Winger Ed.]

I've also had a few .22LR, reloaded .38s & .45s go through the washer.
I wouldn't use them for a serious application, but they all fired like normal.

[robinsroost]

I use blue Locktite to seal the primers and liquid alox on the boolets. Locktite around the crimping groove of un plated ones. Keep yer powder dry...…….robin

[MT Gianni]

I had some 44 special bullets in the front pocket of a backpack in 4 hours of wet snow. 3 weeks late 3 out of 6 failed to fire. If I have something where it's going to be hauled wet now I use nail polish around the primer.