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hollywood63
12-17-2018, 02:14 PM
I searched till I was blue in the face and for the life of can not find the gent that was making/selling tappers here. Can anyone help out?

Thanks

novalty
12-17-2018, 02:21 PM
Check with DukeinFlorida.

Rich/WIS
12-17-2018, 03:49 PM
If you can't find someone on the forum try NOE. When my old hickory hatchet hand was becoming a toothpick I bought the NOE and it is about as good as they come.

rancher1913
12-17-2018, 03:55 PM
dukein florida was selling them awhile back, you can also get a wooden hammer handle from a hardware store, or keep an eye out at thrift stores, i have found wooden mallets there cheep.

Texas by God
12-17-2018, 03:57 PM
Mine is a Hobbit walking stick from Scarborough Faire. No, I did not attend. A gift from my daughter. I think a fishing "billy" would work.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

slug
12-17-2018, 04:10 PM
If you live in an northern area, a broken hockey stick works well.
They're scattered around hockey rinks in the winter.
It's what I've used for decades.

Alstep
12-17-2018, 05:03 PM
I use a small rawhide mallet. Not as brutel on the mold.

country gent
12-17-2018, 05:10 PM
I use a 8 ounce dead blow mallet. The slim line version. For many years I used a dowel rod with a piece of clear tygon tubing pushed over the working end. the tygon provided added cushion and protected the wood. A hammer handle, dowel, leather mallet, dead blow mallet all work well. something 8"- 12" in length and comfortable to hold

Kraschenbirn
12-17-2018, 08:53 PM
6 or 7 years ago, I bought an 8# sledge with a damaged (hickory) handle off a yard sale for $2. Got a new handle from hardware store and cut the old one into 10" lengths. Still using the first one with two in reserve.

Bill

Walks
12-17-2018, 09:05 PM
I used a hatchet handle for 35yrs. Until it simply disappeared. Bought another, but it wasn't quite right. So then I tripped (literally) the poly mallet I bought my Kids for their Camping tent 30yrs ago.
Worked great. 2" head, 12" handle, although it sheds a tiny bit.

I am looking at the N.O.E. striker.

My rawhide mallets are 20oz, too heavy, 4oz too light.
Can't win

woody1
12-17-2018, 09:15 PM
My goodness, It never crossed my mind that anyone would have to BUY a mould tapper. I guess I continue to learn even at my advanced age!

Kylongrifle32
12-17-2018, 10:27 PM
Been using a tabacco stick cut to about 12 inches for about 10 years now. Most older one are good solid oak.

lightman
12-17-2018, 10:57 PM
I use a plastic mallet, just guessing that its in the 6-8 oz weight range. Been using it since the 60's and expect it will be here after Im gone.

mtgrs737
12-17-2018, 11:25 PM
A rawhide mallet works the best for me!

Minerat
12-18-2018, 12:17 AM
I have a piece of sledge hammer handle about 10 inches long. I drilled a 3 inch deep 3/4 inch hole in one end and filled it with coww and taped it with aluminum tape. Works just right the lead added just enough weight to get the job done.

bob208
12-18-2018, 12:28 AM
I have a pile of broken hammer handles that work just fine.

BudRow
12-18-2018, 11:28 AM
I use a glove on my hand to cut the sprue. Use a hammer handle to tap the hinge bolt for sticking bullets.

Hairy Dawg
12-18-2018, 11:32 AM
I used to use a broom stick handle, cut to about 12". The problem I was having was that the wood slivers would be everywhere, and eventually, you'd have to replace the stick. To cure that problem I cut a piece of 3/4 EMT (gray) pvc pipe, about 5-6" long & hammered it on the stick. For some reason, sch. 40 white plumbing pipe seems to be more brittle. Been using this same stick for several years now, without any problems.

robg
12-18-2018, 04:46 PM
Used a broken chair leg for years when it started to break I got a small nylon faced hammer.

Tim357
12-18-2018, 11:01 PM
I use a small rawhide mallet. Not as brutel on the mold.

This^^^^^

scotner
12-18-2018, 11:20 PM
This^^^^^

Rawhide mallet.

jdfoxinc
12-18-2018, 11:58 PM
I too use a rawhide mallet. It has lasted years where hard wood lasted months.

iomskp
12-19-2018, 01:18 AM
A couple of years ago the local trade school was throwing out a box of wood mallets for doing lead flashing, I got the box I think the first one will only last about another 20 years.

coloraydo
12-19-2018, 02:17 AM
I use the butt end (6-8") of an old pool stick.

GregLaROCHE
12-19-2018, 04:13 AM
I use a sawed off broken shovel handle. I couldn’t ask for more.

kevin c
12-19-2018, 05:26 AM
Maybe it's my technique, timing or mold prep/maintainence, but I can't get my MP 8 bangers to consistently drop from all cavities with one tap on the hinge bolt, no matter what I use (dead blow, plastic mallet, weighted wooden dowel or a flat side of a pair of pliers). Sometimes it takes half a dozen taps, sometimes none at all. It's been throwing off my casting cadence to the point where now I lay the opened mold on a towel and nudge each cast out by a gentle touch of the nose of the pliers onto the bases. That risks marring the mold if I slip, I know, but it's fast and consistent. It also saves having to transfer tools in and out of my right hand.

I'm certainly open to suggestions , though.

lead-1
12-19-2018, 06:08 AM
My rawhide mallets are 20oz, too heavy, 4oz too light.
Can't win

I use a combination of the rawhide mallet and the hammer handle, literally. I didn't like using the mallet head (too heavy) so I picked it up by the head with the handle sticking out between my middle fingers and tap with the end of the handle. As goofy as it sounds, it just works, for me at least.

LenH
12-19-2018, 09:44 AM
I use a lead hammer that is homemade. I found a sticky on this site. I use a piece of all thread for a handle that I wrap with tape. The body of the hammer is molded out of a copper
tee split length wise. I made 2 different sizes one out of a 3/4 tee and one from a 1" tee. Those get beat up pretty bad and I just hold the head in the pot and let it melt away and cast
a new one. I don't use the 1" one except to open the sprues on an 8 cavity H&G mold but the 3/4" one will do the job too. I cast those out of what ever alloy is in the pot, usually hard
ball.

RogerDat
12-19-2018, 12:48 PM
Duke in Florida handles had were turned with a cast bullet handle end. Especially nice wood too. They were being sold to fund travel to chemo as I recall so not sure if still available but very nice. Before those I was and still sometimes grab a piece of 3/4 x 1 cut from oak flooring, the flat sides and less weight seem to suit certain molds.

Living in northern climate I'll have to keep an eye out for a broken hockey stick. I think that would be a lifetime supply cut into 10 inch pieces. Could even feed some round bar solder or lead into the end to have one for extra heft in one or two. I like that idea. So many great ideas come up it's a wonder I have any time left for chores like yard work.

Bazoo
12-19-2018, 09:34 PM
Lowes sells dowel stock in oak which would work well. I have a piece of cherry bout 12 inches long and 1 3/4" diameter. I like the extra weight of the bigger diameter for cutting sprues. I originally used it for whacking the lee classic set. Works great for both.

Flailguy
12-20-2018, 12:51 AM
I use a small, very dried out rubber mallet. Works great so far...

rbuck351
12-20-2018, 03:30 AM
I use a glove and lightly leement molds that don't drop easily.

2011redrider
12-20-2018, 04:30 AM
232356

I use this nylon teardrop hammer from Harbor Freight, very light and works well.

Shopdog
12-20-2018, 06:30 AM
Been using this since the 1970's.

Short pce of L.J.Smith 6011 handrail with a wooden ball peen hammer handle stuck in. Gotta look at the 6011's profile. Hammer handle goes in the rail's bttm. Both ends get used. Heck of a nice,lite,extremely well balanced mallet.

Eutectic45
12-23-2018, 09:49 AM
Hammer handles are available in any size to suit your use. I have small ones for single cavity molds, larger ones for multiple cavity.
I find the weight a little light so I drill a 1/2 inch hole in the but end, fill it with lead shot and seal with epoxy.
They last many years and are cheap and easy to replace.

I'm all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of
fools. Let's start with typewriters.
- Solomon Short

Shawlerbrook
12-23-2018, 10:06 AM
A section of a broken shovel handle.

MaLar
12-23-2018, 11:09 AM
This is what I have been using for a couple of years.
Seems it's going to last awhile.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-teardrop-mallet-66205.html

Papercidal
12-23-2018, 01:12 PM
I use a tiny little plastic faced hammer similar to the one Lyman sells as a gunsmithing hammer that I found in the .99 cent bin at the hardware store and it works brilliantly.

Echo
12-26-2018, 03:37 PM
Kevin, in opposition to common practice, I don't tap the hinge area, I tap the side of the mold, actually the handle on the side. Just made sense to me, that a lateral swat with my light plastic mallet, would tend to knock the boolits AWAY from the mold, or actually, knock the mold away from the boolits. So far, no problems. Give it a try...

jonp
12-26-2018, 07:59 PM
Bought a couple from DukeInFlorida. One sits on the bench and shows no sign of wear. The other is in my semi as a tire thumper.

redriverhunter
12-26-2018, 08:09 PM
I got a wooden handle hammer from harbor freight the cheapest I could I could find slammed it on the corner of a cinder block head broke off been using it for a few years now. I still think of purchasing a real one just have had the need yet.
rrh

jmort
12-26-2018, 08:54 PM
"Bought a couple from DukeInFlorida. One sits on the bench and shows no sign of wear."

Me too. They are really nice for the intended purpose.

2011redrider
12-27-2018, 12:24 AM
This is what I have been using for a couple of years.
Seems it's going to last awhile.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-teardrop-mallet-66205.html

Glad to see I am not the only one who uses this hammer. I tried the small gunsmith type hammer that has a brass side and plastic on the other, but, the head was to light and really had to give it a whack to get the boolits out.

Winger Ed.
12-27-2018, 07:47 PM
Back in the 80's I had to cut down the handle on a big sledge hammer about 10-12". I've been using that cut off piece ever since.
Until a mold gets as seasoned as Gramdma's iron frying pan and they drop out, I tap the side/end of the handles behind the mold block.

kevin c
12-28-2018, 08:58 PM
Kevin, in opposition to common practice, I don't tap the hinge area, I tap the side of the mold, actually the handle on the side. Just made sense to me, that a lateral swat with my light plastic mallet, would tend to knock the boolits AWAY from the mold, or actually, knock the mold away from the boolits. So far, no problems. Give it a try...Thanks for the suggestion. Since I mostly cast bevel base, where the lip of the mold that forms the base may hang up the slug, the lateral motion might be just the ticket.

Chill Wills
12-28-2018, 09:28 PM
Do you hit the mold before it is opened or after?

Clouds
12-29-2018, 10:08 AM
My Mold Tapper

Homemade Carvers Mallet.
Piece of Nylon for the head, 20mm Wooden Handle (piece of an old broom stick) with a bolt right through it holding it all together.
The handle is thin enough so that it stays in my right hand all the time and if its not in my hand the lanyard keeps it close.
The bolt gives it some weight and the nylon head does not damage the sprue-plate or the centre bolt.

The wooden handle started to crack so in the new year I will get a length of 20mm nylon and redo the handle.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181229/57642deb4586259a1481144c84b50d17.jpg

tankgunner59
01-03-2019, 12:00 AM
I was at a local flea market and found an old baseball bat for like 2 bucks. I cut the shank off and use it for a tapper. Works great!

Budzilla 19
01-03-2019, 07:51 AM
Bought two tappers from Duke in Florida, one for me, one for my reloader partner down the road from me, put a big piece of nylon on the business end, works perfect!!! Probably never wear it out.

Bigslug
01-03-2019, 09:43 AM
233311

Bought NOE's Mould Mallet fairly early on in the game and haven't had a desire to look further. Had to replace the outer PVC casing a couple times, but that's a pretty cheap cost of doing business.

Echo
01-06-2019, 04:19 PM
Initially I used a piece of 1" dowel stock about a foot long - just happened to have it. Taped it to cut down on splinters. Moved up to a hammer handle. And for at least the last 20 years, been using this - OK, it looks like I've used it for AT LEAST 20 years, but it does the job!
233476

Intel6
01-11-2019, 06:46 PM
233311

Bought NOE's Mould Mallet fairly early on in the game and haven't had a desire to look further. Had to replace the outer PVC casing a couple times, but that's a pretty cheap cost of doing business.

I cracked my PVC casing also, what diameter pipe did you replace it with?

Thanks,

Neal in AZ

gbrown
01-12-2019, 08:18 PM
I use a large ball peen hammer handle wrapped in deer rawhide. Gentle on the molds and very effective for the purpose. Just as an aside, there are some who view us as mold whackers and consider us very abusive to molds.:redneck::redneck: I'm guilty as charged!!:smile::smile:

alamogunr
01-12-2019, 10:20 PM
I use a small lead hammer cast from a mold that circulated several years ago. Short handle.

T_McD
01-12-2019, 11:45 PM
Dang I guess I need to find something to use. Haven’t cast yet but looking to start soon

ioon44
01-16-2019, 09:54 AM
I have been using Hickory shovel or hammer handles cut to 10" to 12" for years these last a long time and are easy to replace.

PbHurler
01-16-2019, 02:21 PM
Just another option...

Bought a couple nylon mallets from The Yard Store long ago:

https://www.yardstore.com/nylon-mallet

I think they're a perfect size & weight, I doubt I'll ever wear one out. They've gone up $2.00 since I bought them, still a bargain IMO.

Liberty1776
01-16-2019, 08:03 PM
For my 12" piece of old sledgehammer handle (it's straight the whole length but oval in cross section) I found a 1" PVC cap (I think, find one that you think can fit).

Heat the cap with a hot air heat gun until it softens.

Push the stick into the soft cap. Form it around the stick as it cools (wear a glove).

After it's cool, drill a pilot hole through the cap and into the end of the stick. Countersink the hole in the plastic to receive a 1-1/4" flathead drywall screw. If desired, you can put a couple of screws through the sides, too.

Done.

234090

234091