lyman 4500 questions

[Lowbudget12]

I just received me 4500 and am ready to start sizing .44mag boolits. I have the devastator and keith mold. Can yall help with a lube that would work best for this, Ill be shooting a ruger superblackhawk hunter. I have searched and there are too many choices for lube. How do I change lube in the 4500. The instructions don't say a thing about changing lubes. I have several 100 bullets poured up ready to go and looks like I will be snowed in this week. Thanks for the help.

[avogunner]

I was partial to Rooster Red lube for all my applications (requires heat) but since that is gone, I use Lars Carnuba Red. There are others that will work for you and I’m sure suggestions will be forthcoming.
For changing lubes, it’s rather messy ... you’ll have to heat the sizer and melt it out. I do use different lubes in some calibers so I’ve picked up a couple of used sizers over the years so I don’t have to do that.
Semper Fi.



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[ericandelaine1975]

If you already have lube in it you'll have to use it up then change it. If you are looking for how to put lube in the first time look on YouTube. Honestly its the easiest way to see how its done.

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[Petrol & Powder]

White Label BAC works well for 44 mag, particularly if you're not at max velocities. For 44 Special loads, NRA 50/50 works well AND is a great lube for most loads under about 1100 fps. And BTW, White Label BAC is Carnauba Red and NRA 50/50 blended together. BAC is a pretty good "all-around" bullet lube but I still prefer NRA 50/50 for 38 Special and 45 ACP.

As for changing lube, you basically run what is in the device out and put the lube you want in. When rebuilding/painting/etc. you can boil the cast iron body to remove all of the old lube but that is reserved for major work and is not the standard method to remove old lube.

Because it is not quick to change lubes, it is a good practice to find a lube to works over the largest number of rounds you load for. Some folks will keep more than one lubersizer on hand and set them up with different lubes.

[Larry Gibson]

I use BAC on my pistol bullets these days because it is better suited for the extremely hot weather conditions I load in. Before moving down here I used an NRA 50/50 lube for all my cast bullets. However, if you got the 4500 new there should have been some Lyman lubes with it. Use the 50/50 lube. It will work nicely on all loads at all velocities, rifle or handgun. Throw the other lubes away, especially the molly lube...... It is somewhat difficult (at least a PITA) and messy to change lubes in a lubrasizer. I suggest you order from Lars at White Label some BAC, if just using cast in handguns, or some of his very fine NRA 50/50 lube in hollow stick form if you also now or will be using cast bullets in other cartridges. A tube of it can simply be added to the 4500s lube reservoir when needed without having to clean the remaining Lyman 50/50 lube out.....just keep on sizing and lubing those Devastators.

BAC and the NRA 50/50 lubes will flow in the 4500 without a heater unless it is freezing where you size/lube your bullets.

[Wayne Smith]

Snowed in, eh? Go to the lube section and choose a simple lube you can make, stop at your thrift store and pick up a dedicated sauce pan and make one. I'd start with Lithibee - lithium grease and Beeswax. Get your supplies before the snow falls, of course.

I just melt the lube and pour it in, I get a mix for a while but so far my lubes have been compatable!

[StuBach]

I’m going to second the make your own option. I’ve only tried a couple of lubes but I made my own blend using one of the recipes here and found it worked better than the bought stuff I had so I ditched all the others.

Other option is run to Harbor Freight and pick up some red powder coat, run by thrift shop and pick up toaster oven, and start PCing?

[RKJ]

Carnuba red or PC.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Do you want to make your own lube?

I have been real happy with SL68B
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?288713-SL68B-the-quot-all-around-quot-boolit-lube-and-how-to-make-it

If I didn't commit to making and testing the SL68B recipe...But I still knew all that I know today, I would use a simpler recipe, like 666+1(AKA:Satan's Lube). While it isn't as heat tolerant as SL68B, it does most everything else that SL68B does.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?232371-Hey-357-maximum-lubes
from post #5

here is the recipe for Satans Lube...basically the OLD PRE ALOX NRA FORMULA with some soap added, nothing ground breaking...does not need to be..... **** good boolit lube is simple when you remove the "tinker factor" and emotion from it.

Melt the vaseline/parrafin and add the ivory soap flakes into it til fully dissolved and the foaming stops and the globular formations are no longer, remove from heat and then add the beeswax last after the mix has cooled a bit to prevent the dreaded beeswax "scorch". You wanna do all this in a pot a bit bigger than you think you need...the soap makes stuff foam up a bit.

6oz vaseline
6oz paraffin
6oz beeswax
1 oz dried ivory flakes (foodprocessor) (you can double this if you live in a hot area or will be shooting in a hot area)

[jdfoxinc]

If your lube requires heat to flow, do not crank on the pressure screw till the lube is soft. The base of the pressure screw bears on a thinner lip of cast iron that will break off under enough pressure.

[gwpercle]

You don't " change" lube. You use up what's in there and then put in another lube or buy a second lube/sizer.
Use a good quality lube and you wont have to "change" lubes. I prefer a soft lube and have been using a Lithium Beeswax lube since the 1970's.
Changing lubes is a big messy pain in the primer pocket.

Want to make it yourself ?...3 parts beeswax to 1 part Lithium Grease ( like Lucas Red-N-Tacky) heat in a slow cooker (old used one)
blend with a whisk...let cool. Do this 3 times to get the ingredients well mixed. The grease doesn't melt just softens.
Gary

[El Bibliotecario]

I generally buy whatever is cheapest at Midway.

Despite this eclectic selection method, which I imagine some will find appalling, the only lubricant problem I have identified is having the stuff seep from beneath the base of the tool. I keep a pallet knife on hand to occasionally scrape up the overage to use as flux.

[lar45]

This how I change lubes.
Take all of the handles and linkage off, crank your screw backwards to pull the plug out of the top. Pull the sizing die out. Preheat oven to 200F, put some Reynolds non stick foil on an old cookie sheet and prop up the body of the luber so that the old lube will drain out when it's melted. Leave it in the oven for about 30 minutes ish and everything should melt and run out.
Let the lube on the foil cool and you can peel it off and save for later if you want.
Some guys just pull the sizing die and the plug out of the top and hit it with a heat gun until everything runs out.

[Mal Paso]

I use a version of Glen F's lube. 2 parts beeswax to 1 part Sta Lube Moly-Graph grease blended over low heat and poured into the sizer. Pouring the lube in eliminates the air pockets you get with sticks of lube. No heater needed at room temp.

[sigep1764]

Am I the only one that just throws the new stick in and runs with it? Lube colors mix for a hundred or so but clears up after that. Lol

[Valley-Shooter]

Am I the only one that just throws the new stick in and runs with it? Lube colors mix for a hundred or so but clears up after that. Lol

That's what I do. Zebra stripes on my bullets

[L Erie Caster]

Am I the only one that just throws the new stick in and runs with it? Lube colors mix for a hundred or so but clears up after that. Lol

No, you are not he only one

[gwpercle]

Am I the only one that just throws the new stick in and runs with it? Lube colors mix for a hundred or so but clears up after that. Lol

I've done it more than a few times.....getting all the old lube out is some messy , I never even considered doing that.