bull plate spuce lube?

[chewie]

should i have some before i use my new mold? still don't stand what it is for?

[Bullshop]

Lubricates, yes but also and just as importantly prevents molten lead from adhearing to the mold blocks and sprue plate.
That is important because it allows you to work faster which in turn helps mantain a hotter mold with less temp fluctuation between casts.
I see so often here when someone begins to see boolits frosting that the mold is too hot.
I look at the same photo and think the mold is not hot enough. A uniformally frosted boolit cast in a hot mold will have very clean sharp well defined edges. The frosting can be wiped away to reveal a shiney surface showing a miror image of every machine mark in the mold cavities.
I used to tandem cast with two or more molds but no more. In my opinion you can not mantain enough heat in the blocks letting them sit long enough to work another mold.
I now work a single mold as fast as I can go to keep it as hot as possible. I cut the sprue as soon as it shows no fluid movment, while still very soft. This is what Bullplate does, it makes it possible to work this fast and hot and not get any lead smearing on the mold or sprue plate.
This is the way of casting I have developed through many years experiance and many hundreds of thousands of boolits. Its not the norm but it works for me. With this method perfect boolits can be made with straight WW alloy or even pure lead. No tin is needed and that is surley a bonus with the price of tin now.
Well I guess I have rambled enough. Simple answer is bullplate has two functions to lubricate all moving parts and mating surfaces of a mold, and to prevent lead from sticking.
Blessings and good night all!
BIC/BS

[Calamity Jake]

YAP what the inventer said, IT"S GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD stuff Manard

I wouldn't be without it.

[jimkim]

I made bullets out of crayon wax when I first got my mould. A thin coat of wax seems to stay on the sprue plate. Is it possible that it is working the same way? It stays slick and that is the only thing I did to it.

[chewie]

i am trying to call your number all morning. is something wrong with your phone or just long winded?

i want to talk with you about the lube. i got the number off the web site.

thanks

or a good time to call.

[Jon K]

chewie,

Makes casting so much easier. A little bit goes a long way. follow the instructions.

Jon

[randyrat]

BULLSHOP, I just got mine in the mail today. I'm so excited i have to try this stuff tonight. Thanks for shipping it sooo very fast! your wax is on it's way also. Any time i teach someone to cast this stuff will be included and they will take a bottle with them. I have heard many good things about "Bull Plate Sprue Lube" BTW the instructions come with the product very easy to read and understand even for me. Thank You!

[WildmanJack]

I have that lead smear on the top of a few of my molds. Anybody know how to get rid of it? I've tried a bronze brush then a brass brush with no luck.. Any Ideas??
Jack

[chewie]

got a hold of lady at the bullshop. she was real nice and answered alot of my questions. so i think i will wait till i get my order and cast some balls. check went off in mail a couple minutes ago.

thanks for all the replies

[randyrat]

I have that lead smear on the top of a few of my molds. Anybody know how to get rid of it? I've tried a bronze brush then a brass brush with no luck.. Any Ideas??
Jack
1st order some Bull Plate Sprue Lube..... When it happened to me i took the sprue plate off and lightly sanded the mold face and the bottom of the sprue plate. Do this with a bullet/s in the mold. Then lube with BSPL.... Use a flate steal block and some 400 grit sand paper.

[Flinchrock]

I have that lead smear on the top of a few of my molds. Anybody know how to get rid of it? I've tried a bronze brush then a brass brush with no luck.. Any Ideas??
Jack

I usually just get the mold really hot (unfilled) then take some steel wool and brush the lead smears right off, little brass brush works good too.

[floodgate]

Wildman Jack:

Someone here mentioned yesterday that a spit of Kroil (don't get it in the cavity!), left to sit for a few minutes, will let it wipe right off; there's also a "Lead-Away" impregnated cloth (Brown-L's?) that does it nicely - that's what I usually use, if the bronze brush doesn't take it off. Then, use Bullplate, as directed, with a recent casting in the cavity to keep it out of there.

Fg

[WildmanJack]

Thanks for the info, I've got some Kroil and I'll try that..
Thanks,
Jack

[chewie]

why fo you want to keep bullplate out of the cavity? also i notice you said leave a bullet in the cavity. as did someone else. why is that?

[waksupi]

why fo you want to keep bullplate out of the cavity? also i notice you said leave a bullet in the cavity. as did someone else. why is that?

Aw, go ahead and let some in.
It only makes the bullets cast very badly for a few hundred casts.

[smilie=1:

[chewie]

i see. i am starting to learn fast. none in cavity

[GabbyM]

One trick to remove lead from your mold blocks is to use a piece of lead. Rub like you were using an eraser.

[DLCTEX]

+1 on getting the mold very hot to remove lead smears. I dunk it in the melt to heat it, then use bronze wool or steel wool to remove smears. DALE

[dromia]

Be very sparing in your use of Bull plate lube,it doesn't need much to do what it does, this is definitely a case of less is more. :-D

[Meatco1]

For my use of BullPlate, I take a toothpick, stick it in the bottle of Bullplate, then add tiny drops to the top of my mold (away from the cavitys), the sprue hinge, & the handle hinge.

That's it, about 4/5 drops on a 4 cavity does it just fine. If I'm casting more than 500 at a sitting, I will redue the application when I see it's needed.

Richard

[floodgate]

chewie:

As Waksupi and others say (and the Bullplate instructions specify), you want to keep it - or any lube or oil - out of the cavity/cavities, or your boolits will come out all wrinkle-y until it is all burned off. Leaving a boolit in the cavity helps prevent this

floodgate

[clintsfolly]

Q-tip and just wipe the in side of the cap after shaking wipe top mould cast like mad clint

[chewie]

i will wait for my lube that i ordered. but not being a quick learner. the lube is only for keeping the sprue plate moving?

also FLOODGATE. i give up on your signature.........NOV SHMOZ KA POP? what does it mean?

[45nut]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=24290

may help some. :)

[chewie]

cool learning more everyday.


NOW for another question i don't have the answer to.........i am still going to get a basic book on casting. but, what is a gas check?

thanks chewie:?:?

[45nut]

http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/staticpages/highres/127791.jpg
protects the base of lead boolits with a copper cup, GC boolit designs generally have a obvious smaller shank to place them on.

http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/staticpages/highres/740563.jpg

[Buckshot]

"...............what is a gas check?"

On the other hand, the guys shooting jacketed slugs basically have a lead slug that has a Full Length Gas Check . So if you see FLGC someplace, you'll know :-) They've just had their underwear pulled up over their head.

The way I use BPL to start out with on a mould before I begin to cast is to heat it up some. Dip the tip of a cotton Q-Tip into the magic elixer. I touch that to the sprue pivit bolt, and the alignment pins. Then I wipe it around on top of the blocks, underside and on top of the SP. To finish up I use a paper shop towel and fold it up several times (to protect my delicate fingertip) and wipe it over the aforementioned block tops, underside and top of the SP.

This removes any excess and spreads it nice and even over the surfaces involved.

In the course of using the mould, after some time, should you feel the SP begin to be a tad 'draggy', it may be time to apply a bit more. The bottle will last a LONG time unless, You're a casting fiend, You're using way to much, or you've knocked the open bottle over.

.................Buckshot

[Heavy lead]

A boolit wedgie!:bigsmyl2:
"...............what is a gas check?"

On the other hand, the guys shooting jacketed slugs basically have a lead slug that has a Full Length Gas Check . So if you see FLGC someplace, you'll know :-) They've just had their underwear pulled up over their head.

The way I use BPL to start out with on a mould before I begin to cast is to heat it up some. Dip the tip of a cotton Q-Tip into the magic elixer. I touch that to the sprue pivit bolt, and the alignment pins. Then I wipe it around on top of the blocks, underside and on top of the SP. To finish up I use a paper shop towel and fold it up several times (to protect my delicate fingertip) and wipe it over the aforementioned block tops, underside and top of the SP.

This removes any excess and spreads it nice and even over the surfaces involved.

In the course of using the mould, after some time, should you feel the SP begin to be a tad 'draggy', it may be time to apply a bit more. The bottle will last a LONG time unless, You're a casting fiend, You're using way to much, or you've knocked the open bottle over.

.................Buckshot

[dromia]

I stand my bottle of lube in a suitably sized jar, it prevents the knocking over and spilling the contents trick. :D

[floodgate]

chewie:

Google up "Toonopedia", and type the phrase in the search box. Don Ahearn's comic strip "The Squirrel Cage" from the '30's often had an oddly-dressed character standing alonside a road and thumbing a lift wrong-way-to, while calling out the nonsense phrase "NOV SHMOZ KA POP?". It has stuck with me since my childhood, and someone here pointed me to the source a year or so back. I like to think of it as meaning "Going My Way?" in Lower Slobbovian.

Floodgate

[DLCTEX]

Chewie: the lube is not just to keep the sprue plate moving. It also keeps lead from adhering to the mold every where you put it, aids in the alignment pins getting where they belong with less wear, helps prevent wear and binding at the attachment pins and the hinge pin/bolt DALE

[chewie]

getting al kinds of good information.

floodgate cool story.