New to Reloading / Looking into casting

[wolves63]

I have been reloading for just over 3 months now and have really enjoyed the versatility it has given me and the variance I can work through for my specific needs. The manuals gave me a great starting point. I currently have the Nosler Reloading Guide #8 and the Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Manual and really enjoyed the read and the loading data in the book. Between watching youtube videos and reading the manual I was able put together several loads and really enjoyed the research in finding what best works for my gun. It also has given me the confidence to change the variables in the loads and see which works best for my needs.

Of course like anything else in my life, when I find a passion for something I typically want to take it to the next step and started looking into cast boolits. I love the hands on approach and yet again the versatility it will give me. But like anything I like to over research before I continue. In looking through the forums I see most mention the Lyman Cast Bullets Handbook #3 or #4, this one is already on order, but I would like several references in possible. I have downloaded/printed out From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners and started reading through it. My main focus will be for the 30-30 and .308 Winchester both of my hunting rifles. The eventual purpose is two fold, to give me more time shooting to increase skill and to hunt with cast boolits eventually, but want to fully understand the risks and rewards associated with it first.

This is where my question really comes into play, what manuals would you guys suggest for understanding the process of casting, best practices, cautions, as well as load data suggestions to start. With detailed reasoning for gas checks, bullet resizing, best practices for customizing bullets to each rifle.

The intent is not to cause an argument, but get a list of 3 or 4 initial handbooks I can sit, read, and devour the information inside.

[ericandelaine1975]

Lyman has a good cast bullet book with a how to at the front and load data as well. There's alot of good information in there. I think lee has one as well. I do know that Lyman has a casting kit for less than $100. It has most of what you'll need to get started. Even comes with the book. It appears you're going about it the right way. The best advice i can give is read as much as you can before you start. Ask questions. My moto is the only stupid question is the one not asked. Everyone has to learn. I've been doing it a couple years and i still learn new things. Also if you have a local shooting range go there and ask around if anyone casts. They may be willing to help you and let you come see how its done. Good luck and be safe.

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[Walks]

Dipper casting with a one or two cavity mold is a great way to learn. Just be sure use a GOOD dipper like LYMAN'S. And please don't buy the tiny Lee "pot". Four pounds is barely enough to get your mold up to casting temp, even if you preheated it/them on a hot plate.
And the LEE dipper is only good for casting fishing weights or maybe skimming dross.

Good Luck. And welcome to a fun way to spend more money on shooting.

[country gent]

Read the stickies here, Ask questions. The lyman cast bullet handbook is a very good source of information. Another if you belong to a range or club put a note up asking for bullet caster to call you and ask for hands on help. Adding your location to your "header" here may find some one local to help you get started. Watch out on you tube internet info some isn't as safe as it should be. Paul Matthews gets into a little casting in a couple of his books. Randolph Wrights books Loading and shooting the Paper Patched Bullet a beginners guide, and Loading and shooting the shutzen rifle get into casting some but for the Black Powder rounds. The SPG manual covers some casting but again BP rounds.

Basic set up a bottom pour pot saves needing a heat source. A camp stove, pot ( cast Iron or steel) and ladle ( RCBS is good Lyman is good) some old cotton towels, a hammer handle or small mallet. A slotted spoon for skimming fluxing make the basic equipment. You will need wax and or wood shavings to flux with.

[tazman]

This is a link to a good read by an expert in casting. His name is Glen Fryxell.
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf

[wolves63]

Thanks for the info guys, I will definately be starting with the Lyman's casting handbook. I planned on dipper casting and doing a 2 mold when I get into it. I don't see it saving that much time getting a 6 mold because of temperature variation on the mold (my opinion, but could be totally wrong on that) . I didn't know Lyman had a casting kit so I am super interested in that, and I found it on Amazon for $76, wife might be angry with me :).

As for my header, I updated it, but for those here I am from Northeast Texas Area.

[wolves63]

This is a link to a good read by an expert in casting. His name is Glen Fryxell.
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf

Yes, already printed it out and have worked through the first 2 chapters. Really interested read and I enjoyed the forward.

[ericandelaine1975]

If you have trouble finding lead pm me and I'll tell you a place that has the lead you need. From different types to the Lyman #2 mix premixed for you.

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[RogerDat]

You have the books if you read those and ask for clarification of parts you don't understand you will have what you require as far as book learning you need. I think I saw the Lee manual mentioned. It is also good. I read an older one that was available for download as a PDF but don't have the link anymore.

I ladle cast rather than use a bottom pour. I second the don't buy the little lead melter, get the 20# pot. If the kit has the small melter skip it.
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-melters/lee-magnum-melter-110-volt

The ladle I like is the one mentioned before the Lyman little dipper.
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Casting-Dipper-Multicolor-Size/dp/B001OPLJUU/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

You will probably want some paint stir sticks and a couple of thrift store / garage sale table spoons. For skimming dross off the top. You might bend the handle a bit or re-shape the spoon, some I have seen have thin slots cut in the tip to let lead drain through while the dross stays in the spoon like a strainer.

Thermometer is most useful can't repeat the perfect casting temperature for a given mold if you don't know what it is.
https://www.amazon.com/Tel-Tru-LT225R-Replacement-Thermometer-degrees/dp/B0055777EU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Lyman also has one I think it is a bit more.

A used steel cupcake tin (preferably without non-stick coating) makes a handy "mold" to dump your molten lead into if you want to change alloy in your casting pot. From casting 30 caliber rifle to revolver bullets you would probably tend to use different alloys so you need to dump your pot before adding the different alloy.

2 cavity molds are great place to start, don't forget many of the older classic molds came in single cavity. Main thing with 6 cavity is the weight. They can be a bit heavy. I like NOE 4 cavity molds since they are aluminum and only 4 cavities they are twice as productive and the weight is still easy to manage. There are at least a couple of other excellent mold makers associated with the site. Mihec and Accurate. I may not of spelled that first one right. Look in group buy area lot of bullet molds come from these three manufacturers who will do a custom mold at a discount once enough commit to purchase.

Lee makes inexpensive molds with 2 cavity for around $25 in most calibers. Those inexpensive molds are a good place to start. For 30 rifle you have a couple or three weights and profiles to try. I would say 75% of my molds are Lee 2 cavity. They are not "premium" molds but they get the job of filling an ammo can with cast bullets done and sit there waiting to make more. The other molds I paid more because I needed or wanted something specific such as oversized for .303 or heavy .223 or HBWC or hollow point or shotgun slug. Most of those non Lee are 4 cavity or at least 3 cavity just to up productivity. Or specialty and only single cavity. I have a Lyman WC mold I love that is single cavity.

There are good deals to be had buying lead in the S & S (swapping and selling) forum. There is also Rotometals who have an advertising link at the top of the page, they are a site sponsor. A whole lot of 30 caliber bullets have been cast from WW (wheel weight) lead and a little solder for the tin to help the lead flow into the mold and get good fill out. You can buy WW lead for ~ $1 a pound and some solder or pewter (high tin alloy) for good prices in the S & S forum. Won't be foundry pure like Rotometals or other foundries but price is better. You can post a WTB (wanted to buy) thread there for lead or other items.

I would buy lead and alloy or basic alloy ingredients rather than trying to start finding your own lead and making your own ingots. That process adds a whole layer of complexity and just gets in the way of making bullets. Come back to scrounging for lead and making ingots later. If nothing else you will have a better idea of what you need for lead. Even buying lead you will save some money per bullet. Just don't count on saving money overall. Because you either shoot more or you spend more on equipment to streamline your operation or extend into scrounging lead and making own ingots or striving to find the perfect combination that shoots 1 MOA from the next zip code on a windy day. AKA - perfect load syndrome. And if you are smart you will sort of stockpile a "pantry" of lead, brass, primers and powder to meet your needs in case of another shortage or congress getting its knickers in a twist to "do something" that raises prices or starts a run on supplies. This hobby is all good fun but not free fun if you catch my meaning. Only way I would save money is if I shot it all off so the savings per round paid for the supplies and equipment, and I would replace the components which costs money so....

Best of luck

[gwpercle]

The Lyman cast bullet Handbooks #3 and #4 , Lee Modern Reloading and except for a out of print RCBS Cast Bullet Manual #1(1986) that's about all of the manuals. The download from Fryxell will cover the majority .
I started casting 50 years ago...tried all the different methods and found a Lyman dipper with a Lee Magnum Melter the best for me. The 20 lb. capacity allows an honest 15 lbs. in the pot. The small 4-5 lb. pot is actually a hindrance to casting ...don't get it .
I make my best boolits with 1, 2, 3 and 4 cavity moulds with a dipper.
Some swear by bottom pour and 6 cavity moulds.... I swear at them...I get better boolits with a dipper.
But the Magnum Melter 20 lb. pot Rocks !

A company ...Wilton ... makes all aluminum , mini-muffin pans...they make good ingot moulds and don't rust ,
been using them fo 30 years now...check their web site.
Gary

[Greg S]

If contemplating purchasing a thermometer, look up a PID controller for your Lee 20 lb pot. Easy modification if you have some basic eletical skills.

I mention this as most folks start out with a Lee pot. RCBS has recently come out with a PID cotrolled dipper pot which could probably be had cheap on B Friday.

Stay away from the Lee ladle.

[RogerDat]

If contemplating purchasing a thermometer, look up a PID controller for your Lee 20 lb pot. Easy modification if you have some basic eletical skills.

I mention this as most folks start out with a Lee pot. RCBS has recently come out with a PID cotrolled dipper pot which could probably be had cheap on B Friday.

Stay away from the Lee ladle.

I think you can buy a PID controller for around $100 +/- and a thermometer is going to run ~ $25 or so. One can certainly make a good argument for putting that $25 toward a PID to control temperature rather than a thermometer to measure it.

Sort of boils down to I'm cheap and have a thermometer so I think of that first. PID is on my maybe someday wish list though. I think the separate PID units offer an advantage in that they can be used with any pot since you just insert the temp probe, but then I never liked TV's with the VCR built in either while some found them more convenient.

[dkonrai]

On the cheap,
I use a turkey fryer, pot, skimmers I got used 15 bucks. Add a propane tank and I'm good to go lol.
I use a rcbs dipper. Use a flat steel plate across the pot to warm the mould.
Get some Lyman 2 from roto metals to try your first pours.
I use a lead pencil set to check hardness. Pretty simple.
Have fun on the new hobby.
Warning... Moulds tend to multiply. Started with lee moulds. They work.

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[44Blam]

Get the bigger pot - 20# +
I like bottom pour, so I got the Lee bottom pour 20# pot. Also get a thermometer. Then you can turn the fire up/down to keep it at temp. I wouldn't worry about the PID, just do it manually.

For molds, I like Accurate and NOE.

[ericandelaine1975]

If you're gonna buy your lead check out metal shippers.com They have the cheapest price per pound.

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[robg]

Don't do it ,once you start you'll never shoot anything else and you will end up addicted .

[sw282]

l try to buy USED loading/casting whenever l can. Cost is held down and lots of loading/casting equipment is only available USED. Freebay and GB are my best sources for USED. Most reloading tools are guaranteed for LIFE, regardless of the owner.
A lead source is a quest within itself. Part of the fun in casting is LEAD. lts kinda like an Easter Egg hunt that lasts all year...

[Mr_Sheesh]

https://www.rotometals.com/lead-ingots-wire/ as low as $2.85 per pound;
https://www.metalshipper.com/lead-granules.html $4.99 per pound.

Folks on here sell for even less though - $1 per pound, plus shipping.

[hermans]

Don't do it ,once you start you'll never shoot anything else and you will end up addicted .

I agree......once the boolit casting bug bites you, there is no turning back!

[LenH]

Welcome to the rabbit hole of casting.

I started with a Lee 4# pot 40 years ago and still have it and it still works, I got a couple of Lyman 2 cavity molds and a Lyman Ladle. My brother and I split the cost
of a RCBS Lube/Sizer. I cas bunches of bullets with that rig, but it runs out too quick. If you can afford it get a bigger pot it will help in the long run.

Like others have said molds tend to multiply and grow in cavities. I have H&G 8, 6 & 4 cavity molds, NOE 2, 3 4 & 5 cavity molds and a pile of old Lyman 2 cavities.
I used a double cavity mold the other day and after using a 4 & 6 cavity mold it sure slowed things down but still made a pile of bullets.

[wolves63]

If you have trouble finding lead pm me and I'll tell you a place that has the lead you need. From different types to the Lyman #2 mix premixed for you.

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I found rotometal, but any additional place to look at would be awesome. I am hoping to get wheel weights, but we will see what the local tire shops say.

[ericandelaine1975]

Be warned. All new wheel weights are zinc.

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[wolves63]

You have the books if you read those and ask for clarification of parts you don't understand you will have what you require as far as book learning you need. I think I saw the Lee manual mentioned. It is also good. I read an older one that was available for download as a PDF but don't have the link anymore.

I ladle cast rather than use a bottom pour. I second the don't buy the little lead melter, get the 20# pot. If the kit has the small melter skip it.
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-melters/lee-magnum-melter-110-volt

The ladle I like is the one mentioned before the Lyman little dipper.
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Casting-Dipper-Multicolor-Size/dp/B001OPLJUU/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

You will probably want some paint stir sticks and a couple of thrift store / garage sale table spoons. For skimming dross off the top. You might bend the handle a bit or re-shape the spoon, some I have seen have thin slots cut in the tip to let lead drain through while the dross stays in the spoon like a strainer.

Thermometer is most useful can't repeat the perfect casting temperature for a given mold if you don't know what it is.
https://www.amazon.com/Tel-Tru-LT225R-Replacement-Thermometer-degrees/dp/B0055777EU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Lyman also has one I think it is a bit more.

A used steel cupcake tin (preferably without non-stick coating) makes a handy "mold" to dump your molten lead into if you want to change alloy in your casting pot. From casting 30 caliber rifle to revolver bullets you would probably tend to use different alloys so you need to dump your pot before adding the different alloy.

2 cavity molds are great place to start, don't forget many of the older classic molds came in single cavity. Main thing with 6 cavity is the weight. They can be a bit heavy. I like NOE 4 cavity molds since they are aluminum and only 4 cavities they are twice as productive and the weight is still easy to manage. There are at least a couple of other excellent mold makers associated with the site. Mihec and Accurate. I may not of spelled that first one right. Look in group buy area lot of bullet molds come from these three manufacturers who will do a custom mold at a discount once enough commit to purchase.

Lee makes inexpensive molds with 2 cavity for around $25 in most calibers. Those inexpensive molds are a good place to start. For 30 rifle you have a couple or three weights and profiles to try. I would say 75% of my molds are Lee 2 cavity. They are not "premium" molds but they get the job of filling an ammo can with cast bullets done and sit there waiting to make more. The other molds I paid more because I needed or wanted something specific such as oversized for .303 or heavy .223 or HBWC or hollow point or shotgun slug. Most of those non Lee are 4 cavity or at least 3 cavity just to up productivity. Or specialty and only single cavity. I have a Lyman WC mold I love that is single cavity.

There are good deals to be had buying lead in the S & S (swapping and selling) forum. There is also Rotometals who have an advertising link at the top of the page, they are a site sponsor. A whole lot of 30 caliber bullets have been cast from WW (wheel weight) lead and a little solder for the tin to help the lead flow into the mold and get good fill out. You can buy WW lead for ~ $1 a pound and some solder or pewter (high tin alloy) for good prices in the S & S forum. Won't be foundry pure like Rotometals or other foundries but price is better. You can post a WTB (wanted to buy) thread there for lead or other items.

I would buy lead and alloy or basic alloy ingredients rather than trying to start finding your own lead and making your own ingots. That process adds a whole layer of complexity and just gets in the way of making bullets. Come back to scrounging for lead and making ingots later. If nothing else you will have a better idea of what you need for lead. Even buying lead you will save some money per bullet. Just don't count on saving money overall. Because you either shoot more or you spend more on equipment to streamline your operation or extend into scrounging lead and making own ingots or striving to find the perfect combination that shoots 1 MOA from the next zip code on a windy day. AKA - perfect load syndrome. And if you are smart you will sort of stockpile a "pantry" of lead, brass, primers and powder to meet your needs in case of another shortage or congress getting its knickers in a twist to "do something" that raises prices or starts a run on supplies. This hobby is all good fun but not free fun if you catch my meaning. Only way I would save money is if I shot it all off so the savings per round paid for the supplies and equipment, and I would replace the components which costs money so....

Best of luck

Thanks for all the awesome information here! I am positive I will end up spending the same if not more with casting, but I will also get to have more time on the range. :)

[wolves63]

Be warned. All new wheel weights are zinc.

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That's disappointing......

[Land Owner]

Since you are starting "fresh", you are going to need a supply of lead AND a smattering of tin. When out and about town, stop in the tire store(s) with an empty 5-gallon bucket in hand, to see if they are willing to provide you with some unsorted wheel weights (WW's). I worry an owner that does not know me may be anti-gun - so I start by asking for wheel weight to melt for fishing sinkers - until I know the owner is OK with my making boolets.

Reluctant owners may not give their weights away and some cannot for Corporate reasons. Other casters will be hitting them up for "free" lead too. Offer them $20 and they'll likely give you 50 to 100 pounds of the unsorted stuff they remove from tires out of which you will likely get 40 to 80 pounds of good WW's for casting ($0.20 to $0.50 per pound of usable material from which to cast - if not free!).

You will have to sort through the raw tire store material to get the zinc out as well as most of the non-lead junk too. Determining what IS and IS NOT zinc in WW's is a learning curve. Read the stickies on that. What non-lead junk you don't get out will come out while fluxing and smelting anyway, so not to worry too much about that at this point.

[ericandelaine1975]

Yes it sucks. Check with radiator shops. The lead drippings are nasty but its pure lead

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[ericandelaine1975]

One other piece of advice. I went and got a cheap set of lee 2 cavity round ball molds to begin with. It helped me learn and i didn't mess up any good molds in the process. They were around $20.

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[Land Owner]

Jacketed bullets are a prime factor in the higher cost of reloading. Add to that cost - more powder, another expendable cost - for greater velocity with jacketed bullets, which is not the boolet caster's end game.

Cast boolets have been killing for almost two and one half centuries (flintlocks used in American Revolutionary War in 1777). As an example, Buffalo by the millions were taken to near extinction almost exclusively by cast boolet calibers (a bunch were shot with arrows too).

Depending on your RECURRING COST for expendable materials (powder, primers, boolets), and your FIXED COST in guns, molds, casting, and reloading EQUIPMENT, it will not be long before you AMORTIZE the fixed cost of equipment IN COMPARISON to the total cost of an equivalent number of FACTORY ROUNDS that you did not have to purchase. Hope that makes sense to you.

Example (getting pretty deep for a newbie here):

30-30 factory rounds currently cost $0.50 each ($100/200 rounds) and we assume that cost is constant for this example.
If your rifle cost was $500.00 and you shoot 1000 factory rounds, you will have spent $1,000.00 in total and had 1000 individual fun "events" or $1000/1000 = $1.00 per round.
Shoot 2,000 factory rounds ($1,000), your gun still cost you $500, so $1,500 for 2000 "fun" events = $0.75 per round.
It is not inconceivable to shoot 20,000 rounds in a lifetime through that rifle @ $0.50/round factory, and $500 for the rifle, equals $10,500/20,000 rounds or $0.525 per round of "fun".

So, an initial cost of $1.00 per round of factory ammunition (1,000 rounds plus rifle) is now "amortized" over 20,000 rounds to be $0.525 per round - including the fixed cost for the rifle.



----------------let the above sink in a minute---------------------



Now...use a few more brain cells and go a step FURTHER to consider the fixed and recurring costs of YOUR homemade rounds and the cumulative total cost eventually amortizes to a fixed number factory bullets, while you OWN the reloading and casting equipment. The cost per round gets cheaper and cheaper the more you reload, cast, and shoot. Plus, you may eventually want to share your cast boolets, which can turn you a marginal profit, making your effort over time even more satisfactory and less expensive.



THEN, get THIS...in 20 years you can SELL all of your equipment at a reasonable used value, and most likely your well cared for guns for MORE than you paid for them, and you will have shot all those days for at WORST break even and at BEST a PROFIT!



Bottom line, you can shoot A LOT MORE when you both roll your own and shoot cast boolets versus what it would have cost for factory rounds.

[CJR]

Wolves63,

Welcome to reloading and shooting more. A motivator for you should your reloading desire wane. Remember this fact; years ago when this country had many riots and suburb fire-bombing by roving mobs, ammo stores were closed to prevent citizens from buying ammo to protect themselves. Likewise, citizens were informed by some LE that "they were on their own". One can never have enough ammo. God bless the USA and the Second Amendment!

Best regards,

CJR

[fredj338]

I found rotometal, but any additional place to look at would be awesome. I am hoping to get wheel weights, but we will see what the local tire shops say.

Cheap/free alloy is where you can find it. Since about 6y ago, lead has been disappearing from the wheel wt so very hit & miss depending on your location. A bucket of ww out here yields less than 15% useable alloy, mostly very old tire changes, so be careful what you pay for ww. There are some reliable alloy providers in the vendor section, $1-$1.50/# delivered, pretty fair price considering you can just drop it in the pot & go. Most of my free alloy is mined from local club berms.

[sw282]

An example of casting equipment that can only be had USED is a 41 Cal 2 cavity LYMAN mold l recently got off Freebay or my 41mag SBH Hunter.. Lyman quit making 41 cal molds quite a few yrs back..

[pjames32]

All new wheel weights ARE NOT ZINC. Many are so you have to sort them. The tire shops where I get used weights have NEW lead wheel weights. Don't forget to check truck tire shops. They are mostly lead and larger weights.

[waksupi]

As far as reading material, you are here! Read the stickies for the short course. Welcome to the addiction.