table saw problems

[shaper]

I am in the process of building bee hives that I can put out next spring. About 3 weeks ago the bearing in the table saw froze locking the motor. Tried to find a new motor for it but nothing. Two days ago table saw #2 gave up and hasn't run again. Traced the problem to the compactor. Can't find one to fit so far. So today I bought table saw #3 from a pawn shop. It looked to be professional quality , had a 10 inch blade, starts and runs great. So I bought it for $50. Got home and found the angle crank handle was stripped . Oh well there are just a few angels in a bee hive. I can still use it to cut most of the parts out. But still I would like to fix it. You guessed it, never heard of the brand. It is a Ohio Forge table saw., 10 inch blade, 3 hp motor Can't find a model number or a serial number anywhere.
So, if any of you guys know where to find parts for this saw I would appreciate heating from you. I spent some time on line today and couldn't find any parts.
shaper

[frkelly74]

craigs list here usually has several of the older Craftsman table saws pretty reasonable. And a Shopsmith every now and then. This would be a whole unit not parts, but if it is cheap enough it might do?

[tunnug]

Small contractor type saws are next to impossible to find parts for, most of the time you may be able to scavenge parts from another dead saw that is the same manufacturer, in all the years I used them as a cabinet installer we all considered them throw away, they died and you would have to buy another, mine usually lasted a few years each, good luck on your search.

[Handloader109]

I'd stop trying to get by with junk saws. You'd be better using a handheld circular saw...
Ohio forge is a junk harbor freight type brand. Forget parts. You wont find any. Get an older craftsman next time, bulletproof, and most motors are cheap and you can get parts at least for a while. OH, NOT A CABLE DRIVE model. Belt drive only. I had one I couldn't kill..

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[Petrol & Powder]

OK, just a typo but it's a capacitor not a compactor. One stores electrical energy and the other makes things smaller :-)

If the only thing wrong with saw #2 is a bad capacitor, that's an easy fix. The replacement capacitor just needs to be the same rating as the old one. If needed, the leads can be extended and the capacitor installed outside the motor casing.

Trying to fix the mechanical problems with saw #3 is probably not worth the time and effort.

Is there a possibility of fitting the motor from saw #3 onto saw #2?

[popper]

Check grainger for the cap

[Hossfly]

The capacitor has numbers on it. You will have to pull it , take it with you to get proper match and size.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Grainger or Digikey or Mouser among other places. Mail order's an alternative, if no local store by you.

You need a Motor Start Capacitor for AC motors, these are NON POLARIZED, a polarized (Electrolytic) one will explode when you power the saw up, make a stinky mess, and so on. The Cap will have "Motor Capacitor", "Non Polarized" or "NPO" (the abbreviation for it) or the like marked on it. You need close to the same capacitance (measured in uF - Micro Farads - usually) and at least as high of a rated voltage as the original cap (might be 370V, Grainger etc. have caps with 370 and 440V ratings. That'd do for 120VAC use and probably 220V as well. You don't want a spike on the line to kill your cap!) The Cap should be mounted solidly but if the original mounting hardware won't do, swap to other mounting hardware? So long as the wires and Cap don't end up being pulled into the pulley system or rubbed on by moving parts.

https://www.grainger.com/category/capacitors/capacitors-and-accessories/motor-supplies/motors/ecatalog/N-19eb

Looks like Grainger has the best costs on these probably so that'd do :) Under $20. If you need hands on help and none of us are nearby, a local Ham Radio group, Robotics group, "Maker" group, or the like will have someone good at Electronics, main thing's to unplug the saw, then replace the cap :)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'd stop trying to get by with junk saws. You'd be better using a handheld circular saw...
Ohio forge is a junk harbor freight type brand. Forget parts. You wont find any. Get an older craftsman next time, bulletproof, and most motors are cheap and you can get parts at least for a while. OH, NOT A CABLE DRIVE model. Belt drive only. I had one I couldn't kill..

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Yes to the Craftsman...

Last month, a neighbor moved out, he had a pile of 'free' stuff by the curb. One item was a old craftsman table saw...I must have looked at it for an hour, but choose not to take it (I have too much stuff as it is)...and I have one just like it in my shed that was a hand me down from my Dad, I don't know when my Dad bought it (1960s I suspect?), but I took possession in 1993...it's still going strong

[BeeMan]

Find your capacitor here, using the search filters on the left:

https://www.zoro.com/motor-start-capacitors/c/9941/

[shaper]

I looked at #2 again, the Craftsman. It has the bigger table top and built stronger. I pulled the capacitor out and found one of the wires had rusted through. I put a new connector on and it fired up.
I'll be making saw dust this evening. Thanks for all the comments and help.

[Petrol & Powder]

I looked at #2 again, the Craftsman. It has the bigger table top and built stronger. I pulled the capacitor out and found one of the wires had rusted through. I put a new connector on and it fired up.
I'll be making saw dust this evening. Thanks for all the comments and help.

I love it when a plan comes together !

[Smoke4320]

On the saw with stripped handle .. if you can find a metal handle for anything else that will slide over the shaft then drill a hole all the way thru the handle and the shaft and install a roll pin .. permanent fix
or if the metal is thick enough on the handle just drill it .. tap and add a bolt . tighten against the shaft as needed

[lightman]

Good news on finding the bad connection. If you ever do have to change the capacitor, take a picture or make some notes on the connections.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Glad you're unstuck!

[Freightman]

I bought an Delta in the 60's all steel and Made USA been used a lot still going.

[CastingFool]

I have a 10" Unisaw, that is 50yrs old, according to the factory. Was built in April of '68. The original motor gave up the ghost about 20 yrs ago. I went to a 1-1/2 hp, 3450 rpm motor, and it is awesome.

[abunaitoo]

Craftsman last almost forever.
I got a few free one's that didn't run.
Everyone was the switch.
Seems Craftsman uses cheap/junk switches.
Even had to change the switch on my Radial arm saw.

[shaper]

The #3 saw has a double problem. The stripped shaft has a double use. Just turn the handle to raise or lower the blade. If you push the handle and turn it , the blade will go into an angle. there is a tooth edge on the bottom of the shaft that fits into a track along the edge of the opening of the front panel. Just what I need, another challenge.

[samari46]

May work may not. Drill and tap the handle and use a flat piece of steel bar. Then drill and tap one end and install a common thread bolt and use a piece of copper tubeing between the flat bar and the bolt head. Leave the tubing just long enough to get caught between the bolt head and flat bar. Or instead of copper tubing get a couple brass pipe nipples or sections of brass pipe. probably 1/4 NPT or 3/8 NPT as long as your bolt will pass through. Lowes has all the brass pipe you'd ever want. With this setup you should be able to crank the saw blade up and down and be able to push it in for the angle function. I'd use a 1/4" bolt with washers and a lock washer under the nut. Still have a few nuts and bolts in my box. Used one to replace the rivit between the rubber bumper covering on the rear bumper. Unless you look for it you'd never know it was there. I'm 72 and learned a long time ago,never throw out what can be used. If you do, then shortly thereafter a use will be found and you remember you threw it out. Frank

[lightman]

I converted my old Craftsman saw to 220 volts several years ago. The motor running on 120 volts pulled so close to what a 20 amp breaker would handle that it would trip the breaker if you hit a hard knot or a damp spot in the wood. It starts easier now on 220 volts and does not trip the breaker near as easy. The down side is that you have to have a 220 circuit, not usually available on most job sites. Thats not an issue for me as mine is only used in my shop. It also got rid of that cheesy switch that Craftsman loved so much!

[toallmy]

I'm glad to hear you got your table saw going , but now we need to see some pictures of your new bee hives .:p