Lee Mold Lubrication

[ryan richards]

Hi guys,

Here is an easy one for the old timers. My research has recommended the following for lubricating a new Lee mold.

A) With the mold in pieces, lube:
1) the sprue plate pivot bolt,
2) the washer and
3) the hole in the sprue plate.

B) Reassemble the mold.

C) Lube:
1) the sprue cam bolt,
2) the block alignment pins,
3) the bushings and
4) the hinge bolt of the mold handles.

Great, but what commercial or home made lube do you guys recommend to use?

Thanks for helping out someone who is just learning.

[NuJudge]

Bullplate lube. They are a sponsor here. Don't apply too much.

CDD

[dubber123]

I really like the Bullplate for the mould tops and underside of the sprue, but find it feels kind of "dry" when used on the alignment pins.

I use either LBT's mould lube sticks, or my own lube sticks, which is just beeswax and ultra fine graphite, melted together and rolled into 1/4" sticks. When the mould is hot, a light touch on the area to be lubed leaves a film of graphite.

[DLCTEX]

Bullplate. I like it for the alignment pins due to the fact that tere isn't the carbon buildup that I got when using beeswax based lubes. Read the directions for application, or you'll porbably put too much like I did at first. DALE

[Alchemist]

Bullplate. I like it for the alignment pins due to the fact that tere isn't the carbon buildup that I got when using beeswax based lubes. Read the directions for application, or you'll porbably put too much like I did at first. DALE


Yep, just follow the directions and it works great...and a small bottle will literally last for years!

[mooman76]

I used WD40 before I got Bullplate lube and that worked fine for me. I sprayed it on the mould while hot. The lube can stand high temp. and it is not like a normal lube, it dries to a film so if you get a little in the cavities it won't really hurt, in fact I used it like a mould release. The first few bullets won't come out as good but after the mould heats back up they start coming out good again.

[Ricochet]

Silver antiseize compound works well.

[jack19512]

This is probably going to go against what most of you do and/or believe in but I quit lubing any of my Lee molds and have not had one single problem. I use to lube them but after reading someone else's post a while back about him not lubing his Lee molds and not having any problems I decided to try it myself. I have about 8 Lee molds now and since about the last 3 new molds I haven't lubed any of them.

[copdills]

another one for bull plate lube:castmine:

[billyb]

one more for bullplate Bill

[Buckshot]

..............Bullplate lube, in case no one else mentions it :-)

.............Buckshot

[OldBob]

I hear that Bullplate lube works really well......................... and I agree

[dromia]

No! No! No!

How often do I have to tell you, why don't you pay attention and listen??

Bull Plate lube is the stuff you need. :castmine:

[pdawg_shooter]

Silver antiseize compound works well.

+1 ON THE ANTISEIZE !

[ryan richards]

Hi guys,

As always, all of you have been very informative and generous of your time. I will experiment with each of the 4 suggestions mentioned. For others like myself, who know next to nothing but are learning fast, I have included additional information about Bull Plate and Loctite.

Bull Plate Sprue Plate Lube - 2 oz - It costs $4.00 at: http://bullshop.gunloads.com/prices.html


Silver antiseize compound. Better known as Loctite® Silver Anti-Seize Stick. It is a heavy-duty, temperature-resistant, petroleum-based lubricant compound fortified with graphite and metallic flake. It will not evaporate or harden in extreme cold or heat. Use during assembly to prevent seizing, galling and corrosion. For use in assemblies up to 1600°F (871°C). It costs $4.17 at:
http://www.toolstoragewarehouse.com/loctite

[jcwit]

How bout C5-R antiseize. Its copper. Both are available at most any Auto-Zone or Advance Auto, or other parts store.

[rvpilot76]

I got two bottles of stuff from a nice fella up in Alaska. I think someone might have mentioned the lube on here at one time or another...I think the name had something to do with cows...Ok, I'll stop. Bullplate is inexpensive, and works like a dream.

Kevin

[Bill*]

How come no-ones mentioned Bullplate yet?

[40pa]

Here's a newb story. I bought a new lee mold for makarov rounds. I started casting some boolits and about after 100, the mold was not lining up, it was getting stuck or hung up. The boolits were very misaligned. I stopped and read the lee manual to discover that they tell you to lube those areas before you start casting(and remembered reading about lubing here as well-several times[smilie=1:). The Lee directsions state that if you don't it can cause irreparable (and non-warrantied) damage to the mold. So I lubed as directed and the problem went away. I just used the liquid alox (which lee even suggested doing) and it has held up so far.

[theperfessor]

I use silver anti-seize compound on any screw thread that gets hot that I might want to get apart later (hinge pins on molds, threaded handle screws, etc.). But for lubricating all the other contact surfaces on my aluminum and ferrous molds I'm quite pleased with Bullplate. Keeps lead from sticking to top of blocks and bottom of sprue plate and speeds up production a lot since you can cut off sprue quicker and with less force.

Just my $.02 worth.

[Bullshop]

Cant tell ya, top secret.
BIC/BS

[454PB]

This is probably going to go against what most of you do and/or believe in but I quit lubing any of my Lee molds and have not had one single problem. I use to lube them but after reading someone else's post a while back about him not lubing his Lee molds and not having any problems I decided to try it myself. I have about 8 Lee molds now and since about the last 3 new molds I haven't lubed any of them.

That could have been me. I haven't lubed or smoked a Lee mould in 20 years, and I own 19 of them now.

The trick is to use your sprue knocker to align the mould halves as they are closed. Close them slowly while watching the cavities align through the top of the blocks, holding the knocker against the bottom. It might sound like it slows down the process, but after a while it becomes automatic and doesn't affect casting speed.

[shotman]

i found something that will release the lead on molds--- Kroil----put it on in about an hour you can wipe the lead off-havent tried to leave it on but that is for a later trial rick

[kamikaze1a]

I can tell you NOT to use Permatex high temperature "Ceramic" caliper lube. The stuff gums up and hardens....

[Treeman]

I need ter git sum o'dat bullplate loob ter try. FWIW I have good results using Tetra Gun grease -but keep it out of the cavities!

[timkelley]

At the risk of being boring, "Bullplate".:wink:

[kamikaze1a]

I had started a thread about the pins pulling out of my brand new Lee mold to the point where it keep the mold from mating flush. Well I tapped the pins back in before using it for the 2nd time lastnight. This time I lubed the pins with the Silver Permatex anti-seize compound and it behaved perfectly. No binding and the pins stayed put. I have tried bee's wax which worked but melted and traveled to places that I did not want. I also tried the Permatex Copper anti-seize compound which did work too but got a little gummy. I also tried Permatex "Ceramic" brake caliper pube which is what I suspect caused the pins to pull out. It got hard, sticky and though it was rated for the highest temp, it was not suitable. The silver anit-sieze will be what I use on the pins and sprue plate latch until I find something better. Note; I have not tried Bullplate lube yet...

[Ricochet]

Me, either. Is that Bullplate stuff any good?

[kamikaze1a]

Many swear by the stuff, especially for under the sprue plate. Personally, I rub pencil lead on the top of my mold...

[SWIAFB]

Bullplate lube and Speed Green are in their own leage. Dan walks the walk.

[Ricochet]

I'm just joking.

[Alchemist]

Silver antiseize compound works well.

Would that be the stuff you put on spark plug threads??

[Ricochet]

Yep. And that I just lubed up a brand new 6-hole mould with tonight. Works fine.

[ryan richards]

This is the vote guys,

14 - for Bull Plate
06 - for Silver Antiseize
02 - for Nothing
01 - for Liquid Alox
01 - for Kroil
01 - for Tetra Gun Grease

If this was court decision, it would be a "hung jury" and a mistrial would be declared.

If this was an election decision, it would be a "landslide victory" for Bull Plate.

But for us, we use what works best. I am about to find out what will work best for me. Thank you all for your advice.