Lee 6 hole spru plate screw backing out..fix?

[Char-Gar]

What is the fix for a spru plate retaining screw that wants to back out on a Lee six hole mold. It has some kinda lock washer under it, but it seems to be useless.

[kenjuudo]

I usually drill and tap for a 6-32 set screw and use a piece of heavy copper wire under it to protect the threads of the retaining screw. I usually have a problem with the two holers, but it wouldn't surprize me that a six holler needs help.

[Springfield]

I had a machinist friend of mine put set screws in all my 6 cavity LEE's. If interested he said he's do it to anyones for 20.00 plus shipping. Definitely eliminates one more PIA. He uses a brass insert to keep from damaging the threads. mwwhyte@verizon.net

[Buckshot]

............Charger, I don't know if you mean the pivot bolt or the hold down up at the front end. Both the bolts are sholdered and will only screw in so far. The hold down one has a sholdered collar the bolt goes though. Between the shoulder on the collar and the bolthead is a wave washer.

Since both are shouldered you really can't "cinch'em down" tighter then they were to begin with. Go to the hardware store and get a 6-32 tap and a number 36 drill bit. Use WD-40 for some taping fluid on aluminum. While you're at the hardware, get a little packet of brass 6-32 screws.

The tap may be a taper tap and you really want a plug tap, as the taper may be too long to get clean threads all the way up to the hole the bolt threads into. If all they have is a taper tap, then use it to start the holes and if it works all the way then fine. Some taper taps have more threads tapered then others.

If it doesn't, then after the holes are started grind all but maybe 3 of the tapered threads on the tap off and finish with that. If you can run it though a steel 6-32 nut before going back to the aluminum that would be good to clean them up a bit.

.............Buckshot

[sundog]

Springfield, yikes, twenty bucks to drill a hole and tap it in aluminium??? I do this as part of a full 'lee-menting' with a hand drill and tap. It takes about two minutes - well, maybe five. Mark it by eye with a pencil, center punch it, drill it, and tap it. I've been using 8-32. Even if it's a tad off center it still works just fine. Someone not too long ago suggested using a ball from brass ball chain as a buffer between the set screw and sprue hinge screw. Haven't tried it yet but sounds like a good idear. Some of my RCBS moulds came with a brass bumper under the set screw and it keeps the screws from getting buggered. It would also take up a little space if your [taper] tap doesn't get all the way to the bottom of the hole.

Now, as an aside, when reassembled I leave my sprue plate a little loosey goosey on the SC and DC since I dipper pour. I can hold the spout against the plate with a little finger pressure and I get perfect fill out at the base. With the 6 bangers I set them up so they work like new with the plate sliding in under the retainer. In any case, the addition of a set screw solves alot of problems.

I can see an advantage to using 6-32 screw first. If it strips then it can be stepped up to 8-32 and just keep going. sundog

[AnthonyB]

I've had no trouble with a taper tap, and normally drop a few of the #9 shot that continually find their way onto my bench into the hole to protect the screw. Probably not necessary, but it make me feel better. Tony

[44man]

On all of my home made moulds and those I worked on, I file a flat on the sprue plate screw and tighten the setscrew on this flat. I adjust the plate for the looseness I want before locating the flat. I use an 8-32 screw and a 6-32 setscrew.

[Springfield]

What can I say, the guy is a perfectionist, like my father was(also a machinist). He drills the hole, puts a brass rod in there that fits the hole perfectly,and puts the threaded set screw in after it. He then cuts threads on the end of the brass rod so that it rides on the threads of the pivot screw. He feels it will damage less this way. Me, I woulda just drilled and tapped and put a steel bolt in there. I was gonna do that but he wouldn't let me, seemed personally insulted I would do something like that. He doesn't charge me for the work so I can't complain much. I do some free leather work for him on occasion, I ain't no freeloader.

[Char-Gar]

Thanks guys..just what I needed to know. I think I have the right drill and taps, but if not I will pick them up along with some 6-32 brass screws. I will crank up the drill press and give it a go.

I would think if I drill all the way into the bolt hole, a taper tap should do the job as it is not a blind hole. I take it we want to drill the hole, so the brass screw is holding against the threads of the bolt..right?

Buckshot..I was talking about the pivot bolt to the front of the blocks. The hold down bolt on the rear seem to be just fine.

[Buckshot]

I would think if I drill all the way into the bolt hole, a taper tap should do the job as it is not a blind hole. I take it we want to drill the hole, so the brass screw is holding against the threads of the bolt..right?


............Right. The new screw acts just like the setscrew Lyman puts in their blocks to bear on the sprueplate pivot screw. Re: The taper tap. Since you're threading into alum, if you didn't have the tap on hand, a plug tap would be best if you had to buy one (if it were available). Some taper taps can have more then 7 partial threads.

On a 6-32 that is more then 1/4" worth of threads in length. Possible the nose could bump the opposite side of the bolt hole before completed threads reached it. Normally that's all the big box, or less well stocked hardware stores sell. A Hansen taper tap and a drill bit, blister packed together.

...............Buckshot

[Oldfeller]

Since the shoulder bolt on the LEE six bangers is a real hex headed bolt and you can put a socket on it, why not do this fix the easy way?

Being mindful to use a toothpick to get just a smidgen down inside the threaded hole (don't put it on the bolt threads themselves or it could possibly get inside the spring loaded rotating slider clearance) use a just a tiny partial drop of red removeable locktite.

When the time comes to take it off, use a socket or a box end wrench on a warm mold, it will break free fairly easily and come right on out. You can do this repeatedly on one application of loctite, as the hole remains "tight" after the bolt is removed and re-installed.

This saves all the tapping and drilling and accidental screwing up while doing it.

Oldfeller

[Newtire]

Trouble is, when you heat up the mould to cast, the loctite turns to goo.