Old RCBS ProMelt w/PiD vs New RCBS ProMelt?

[AbitNutz]

So is there any advantage to the RCBS Pro-Melt 2 with the native PiD compared to an old RCBS Pro-Melt plugged into an independent PiD?

Right now I have the old Pro-Melt plugged into the a PiD and it maintains temperature really well but man does it cycle on and off a bunch. I always wonder if that can eventually cause some sort of damage.

The new Pro-Melt holds 25 pounds of lead compared to the old one's 20 pounds. I'm not sure I would miss the 5 pounds...maybe I would.

I've had the old Pro-Melt for over 30 years and RCBS did a full rebuild on it about 7 years ago due to my complete stupidity, at no charge....

[dragon813gt]

Cycling of the PID won’t cause any damage. The SSR is sacrificial part so to speak. It has an expected life cycle. Once it fails you replace it, at a low cost, and keep on casting. It’s the failure point instead of more expensive parts.

The advantage to the new one is 5#s more capacity and an all in one package. That’s really it. Having the PID packaged w/ the pot has its advantages and disadvantages. For someone that doesn’t want to build one it’s a great option. Since I built one already I don’t really care about it.

[jmort]

Pro Melt 2 is less expensive and comes with a PID to boot. I will keep my original Pro Melt. Made in USA.

[AbitNutz]

From what I hear the old ones are better made. They're not dependent on the latest technology so there's been no real improvement in design.

I would think that one of those older Saeco bottom pour pots that were built like tanks, hooked up to a PiD would be just the ticket to cast bullets in 2018.

[dikman]

If you want to sell your old pot to buy a new one I reckon there will be people who will jump at the chance to buy it! Which says a lot about how highly regarded they are. I have an old one and a separate PID and think it's the best of both worlds - the PID is the most likely fail point and if that happens you still have a working pot (in my case I'd just plug in my spare PID :D). I can't think of a single reason why I'd want to change for a new one (the extra 5lbs. is irrelevant).

[Leadmelter]

My is from the 1980's and still casting. I was in on the Group Buy PID.
Reworking my setup to fit in the PID. Should have it done this week.
Leadmelter

MI

[Mal Paso]

I like the extra 5 lbs, it's closer to the 40 pounder of my dreams. LOL

The trouble is Mercury/Cap Tube thermostats are on their way out. There were a couple complaints here that replacements weren't as good. I didn't try to replace the one in my original Pro Melt but went to PID.

The Pro Melt 2 linkage was sloppy because the holes in the lever were too big, which I fixed. Other than that it feels solid.


Right now I have the old Pro-Melt plugged into the a PiD and it maintains temperature really well but man does it cycle on and off a bunch. I always wonder if that can eventually cause some sort of damage.

If you are using a modern SSR the switching is at 0 volts in the AC cycle so there is very little wear or electrical noise. Mechanical relays take a beating.

[RichardB]

do you plug the Pro Melt into a PID controlled outlet? Have a link to such a device?

[jmort]

Yes, plug device into PID, and PID into wall socket.
Hatch, moderator here, sells them
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?6334-HATCH

[Springfield]

At least with my old Pro-melt and my home-made PID I get to see the temp read-out while I cast. The new one is on the side, so can't see it all the time. And I can get 22 lbs in my old one pretty easily.

[Leadmelter]

Getting started with this set-up myself. I have the pot full of the alloy I wish to use for my next casting session. I got my PID plugged in. Two questions:
1. When should I insert the temperature probe and run the calibration? Using a RCBS Promelt.
2. Should I NOT leave the probe in solid metal.
Thank You
Leadmelter
MI

[popper]

Wait til the alloy is melted, then insert. I don't leave the probe in the pot as it really has been the weak link in my setup. Probe may be good to 1200 but the insulation eventually fails. The wire is stiff and constant bending will break it. Built-in PID is nice idea but heat is the enemy of electronics.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Springfield - Maybe put a mirror to give you a view of the temperature, if you can read temps backwards in a mirror anyways? I have an old ProMelt and a PID coming from Hatch, I probably will get a new ProMelt 2 to use - One for pure lead, one for harder alloys. Then one for Pewter, ... (Watch as the area I live sinks below sea level, some day. :P)

[kevin c]

I am in the process of cleaning up an old Pro Melt gotten from someone who sold much of his shooting, reloading and casting gear to finance his dream of sailing around the world (not my dream, but to each his own and I wish him clear skies and steady winds). It's a bit rusty,but seems to run fine, doesn't drip and holds four more pounds of alloy than the Lee I started out on. I never did get around to mounting Hatch's fine PID on the Lee, so now it will go onto the Pro.

For me, the extra three pounds of capacity of the new and unproved model isn't worth the money I'd have to pay.

I would like to know if RCBS still has replacement parts for the old model, in case I can't unfreeze the rusted adjustment bolts or can't stand the rust remaining on the rest of the valve linkage. Gotta give them a call.

[Leadmelter]

I called them today. Parts will be sent no charge. Don't plan on them answering the phone quickly.
Go to RCBS.COM to get the part numbers and description.
Leadmelter
MI

[kevin c]

Thanks, leadmelter. I may not need the parts after all. I got the rust off the steel parts. Some engine paint on the base and may be some cold bluing on the small control parts of the spout will cover the raw metal. Some of the rivets have surface rust but seem to be holding the body together pretty well nonetheless, and there are spots where the green finish is flaking. Old, but hale and hardy, I think.