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View Full Version : Brine seperation of lead and rubber



bdgackle
09-16-2008, 05:46 PM
I had about 120# of indoor range backstop material that I wanted to get the lead out of. I used a screen to sift through the material and get the big chunks of lead out, yielding about 60# of lead chunks and jackets clean enough to smelt.

I now have about 60# of material that consists mostly of lead powder, rubber powder, small lead chunks, and small rubber chunks. Based on the density of this (the material is only about 3 gallons in volume), I suspect that much of the remaining mass consists of lead.

I can't separate the lead with heat because the smoke and oder would be unacceptable -- I'm doing this on an apartment balcony. I need to find some way to get to the lead powder mechanically, which has led me to the brine solution. I've seen many posts on this board that suggest the use of a dense concentrated brine solution for the separation of lead from rubber backstop material.

Assuming I go this route, I will be left with a bucket of lead powder damp with brine. I can of course dry this out, but that leaves the salt.

My questions are:

1) Does anyone know of a good way to get the majority salt out of the resulting lead/salt powder?

2) Will the salt react chemically with the lead, either at room temperature or melt temperature and produce any sort of toxic compounds I should be concerned about?

3) Does a remaining trace of salt represent a threat to my barrel metal? How much salt can be left and still have the alloy be usable (since any method of rinsing won't be perfect)?

4) Finally, if an adequate method of separation cannot be found, any ideas on how to dispose of this material? Seems like a bad thing to put in the dumpster, for both environmental and economic reasons. Perhaps there is someone here who is able to handle the smoke and would be interested? I'd be happy to send out a sample, and if it turns out to be useful, I'd be willing to give it away for the cost of shipping.

Bent Ramrod
09-16-2008, 09:32 PM
bdgackle,

After the rubber particles have been floated away from the lead, a good rinse of the latter by swirling with water should take care of the salt. The lead should all stay on the bottom, of course. It would be sort of like panning for gold.

There shouldn't be much, if any, trace of the salt left after this treatment. What tiny amount might remain should go into the dross on top with the normal fluxing you would do before starting your casting.

montana_charlie
09-17-2008, 12:43 PM
I might try putting the material in a vibrating case tumbler.
You would think the materials would stratify, with the smallest and heaviest particles on the bottom.

Then, use a vacuum cleaner to suck off the lighter stuff...by not allowing the nozzle to get close enough to pull the (heavier) lead.

I would only go to all this trouble when the mass is small...like your '3 gallons'.
CM

Bret4207
09-17-2008, 12:53 PM
Why would you even need the salt? I'd just toss it in a 5 gallon bucket and add water. Agitate a little with maybe a shot of dish soap and whatever floats gets tossed. The rest should be lead. If you use the slat then just rinse the lead a time or two and you should be good to go.

carpetman
09-17-2008, 12:59 PM
Leave the salt in. Heck I have to add salt to my bullets for my long range hunting so that the game doesnt spoil before I make my way that long distance. If your long range shooting abilities not as good as mine and you don't need it for that purpose, use them for wintertime bullets so they don't freeze in mid air. Salt is used to keep streets from freezing---why not bullets? Also leave the rubber in as it will increase your distance after they hit the ground they'll continue bouncing along---sorta like punting a football. Come to think of it you might have a commodity that Pat Marlin could market---afterall he sells sawdust. Glad I could help.

BABore
09-17-2008, 01:04 PM
Use a gold pan and do some dippin and swirlin.:-D