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Bullshop
11-27-2005, 04:22 PM
Problem #1
I have not done this yet so before I mess up I will ask. I have in hand an action and a .050" short chambered barrel. Checking against another finished barrel .050 looks about right. The finished chamber allows a new case to fall into chamber to flush with the extracter cut and the short chamber stops about .050" out.
I have the reamer but want to be cautious about damaging it or the barrel. I was told by the JGS rep to use a water soluable lube. They sell the lube but in a 5 gal minimum. I dont think I will need 5 gal to finish .050" out of a chamber so dont want to do the 5 gal cost trip.
QUESTION What can I get in the quantity I need that will work for the job?
Problem#2
Someone traded in a Krico 22/250 last week. I found that it requires the scope adjuster to be fully to the left and is still not quite centered. This is with two peace Weaver bases. I want to put windage adjustable bases on it so to get the scope near the center of its adjustment. I can find no referance to the Krico rifle for a cross over to something more common.
Does anyone have experiance on this that can stear me in the right direction? It is a model K-607 Made by Krico in Germany. It is stamped 22-250 Rem so is post 1965 vintage.
The is a real nice rifle and if I can get a couple buggs worked out should I beleive be a shooter.
Thanks to all for help, and for putting up with all the BS from this location. Happy hollidays and God bless all.
BIC/BS

StarMetal
11-27-2005, 04:31 PM
Dan,

You can use pipe thread cutting oil that hardware stores sell, the kind that is a sulfur base. Vegetable oil would work also. You're not going to be spinning this reamer at high speed, really should be turning it by hand. You lube up, cut a wee little bit, pull it out, clean out chamber, and check with go and no go gauges. You can take a wee little bit out, but you can't put too much taken out back.

Joe

45nut
11-27-2005, 04:36 PM
Dan,regarding the scope being way off....
I traded into a sav 99 that the owner gave up on because he also could never git it near zero. I went over with some Millet Angle-Lock rings and put it right on in minutes. you tighten one side or the other to draw it in to center and you are off and running.

grumble
11-27-2005, 04:48 PM
Yeah, what Joe says. I use used transmission fluid for cutting oil. Be sure to use enough to keep it flushed clean so that chips from the reamer don't clog up the flutes or scratch the chamber/throat.

Sometimes on the Weaver bases you can file off one "gripper foot" so the scope will move to that side a few thousanths. It's best to use a scope ring lapping tool aferwards though, so you don't bind the scope.

StarMetal
11-27-2005, 04:56 PM
Not to run down what Grumble said but you'd be better off with that pipe threat cutting oil rather then ATF which isn't meant to be a cuttiong fluid. Sorry grumble.

Joe

Hairtrigger
11-27-2005, 05:02 PM
Ever since I purchased my first set of Burris rings with the plastic inserts I have not touched my scope ring lapping bar.
With the Burris rings you can get offset inserts in 5, 10, and 20 moa.
combined you can get 40 MOA

felix
11-27-2005, 05:03 PM
Any oil used for cutting must have a high content of sulphur to help prevent shatters. ... felix

grumble
11-27-2005, 05:31 PM
Not to run down what Grumble said but you'd be better off with that pipe threat cutting oil rather then ATF which isn't meant to be a cuttiong fluid. Sorry grumble.

Joe

That's ok, Joe. I've used it for years, and have had no problems with a hand-turned reamer. Use what works, sez I. With hand turning, I don't worry too much about chatter.

45nut
11-27-2005, 05:42 PM
Ever since I purchased my first set of Burris rings with the plastic inserts I have not touched my scope ring lapping bar.
With the Burris rings you can get offset inserts in 5, 10, and 20 moa.
combined you can get 40 MOA
Yes indeed,,another great option. I use that ring to great effect to gain elev on a 22-250 Encore barrel.
A bonus to the inserts is they do not mar the finish on the scope tube while doing a great job in holding steady.

Hairtrigger
11-27-2005, 06:33 PM
.
A bonus to the inserts is they do not mar the finish on the scope tube while doing a great job in holding steady.

STOP telling people.
I have no problem purchasing good scopes cheep because of ring marks.


MARKS not dents

Bullshop
11-27-2005, 07:22 PM
hairtrigger
Will those Burris rings fit the Weaver bases I already have?
45 Nut
I have never heard of the Millet angle lock rings. Will they fit the weaver bases I already have?
On reaming
Do you just wet the reamer each time you remove it to clean chips off, or do you keep a flow from the muzzle while turning the reamer?
Please be patient with me as I dont want to learn from my mistakes this time.
BIC/BS

45 2.1
11-27-2005, 07:40 PM
Bullshop On reaming
Do you just wet the reamer each time you remove it to clean chips off?
Yes, a very little turn can remove alot of material, be very carefull when close or you'll over cut the chamber. If you feel it cut, remove and clean reamer and chamber, then check headspace. A little goes a very long way here.
Please be patient with me as I dont want to learn from my mistakes this time.
Go slow here, not a time to go fast or alot.

Singletree
11-27-2005, 08:15 PM
Bullshop,
Sometimes, if your really lucky, you can change the back ring to the front and front to back and effect better alignment of the scope. If that don't work a shim under one half of a base will tilt the scope in the desired direction.

I have chambered barrels in a chambering lathe and in that application there is a continual oil bath supplied thru the bore to the reamer, and it is still prone to collect chips and ring the chamber. So, as suggested above, slow and easy will carry the day. If you would, post the results and let us know how you made out.

45nut
11-27-2005, 08:21 PM
hairtrigger
Will those Burris rings fit the Weaver bases I already have?
45 Nut
I have never heard of the Millet angle lock rings. Will they fit the weaver bases I already have?
BIC/BS

http://www.millettsights.com/open.html
Both the Burris and the Millet will fit weaver bases..

Oldfeller
11-27-2005, 08:33 PM
I HEARTILY recommend the Millet angle-lock rings. They go on all my dual-weaver mount guns to correct base offset issues.

Unless you are dealing with an up-down issue the angle-locks will correct any side to side issues you may have.

Oldfeller

Mel-4857
11-27-2005, 09:49 PM
I really like Burris rings because they put no stress on the scope and hold really well. Have put the inserts on the diagonal and corrected for windage and elevation problems. Mel

Bullshop
11-27-2005, 11:04 PM
As usual many here rushed to my aid with the needed info. I am now armed and ready for the challenge. Many thanks to all ! Will be a bit before I can get to town for cutting oil. Temp is in the mid -30's so best to stay home till it lets up in a week or so.
God Bless all
BIC/BS

Doughty
11-27-2005, 11:30 PM
Bullshop,

I don't want to assume too much, but the stuff I use is available in one gallon containers. I also dilute it 10 to 1 up to 30 to 1. Do you have access to some mail order place like J&L? Did JGS reccomend a certain brand?

Bullshop
11-28-2005, 12:31 AM
Old Vic
I never heard of J&L so dont have that. The JGS guy just said water soluable lube and not being a machinist have no idea what that is. He never said a brand only mentioned a couple times water soluable lube.
BIC/BS

Blackwater
11-28-2005, 02:18 AM
Bullshop, I don't know what you may or may not already be set up to do, but if you can drill & tap, you may (?) want to try redrilling and tapping that receiver and those pesky bases to 8x40 screws rather than the 6x48's that I assume are on there now. There should be enough overlap in going to the 8x40's to correct the alignment issue. Just a thought. Then you'd have really solid bases and maybe a stronger setup.

versifier
11-28-2005, 02:39 AM
You've probably got more than enough info to get the job done already, but there are a couple of measurements you can make to give you some idea of how you are progressing with the reaming. I may be overstating the obvious, but that is better than leaving out something important. I'm assuming before you start that 1) the breech end of the barrel is squared (and any machining is done to fit it to the end of the bolt, which it would be in your case), also 2) both the barrel shoulder and front of the action are squared where they meet, and 3) that the bolt closes when the barrel is fully screwed into the action. People make mistakes, so it never hurts to make sure everything's cool with what's already been done by others before you start.
Some years back I took a course at RIT on action prep and chambering taught by Jerry Hart (of Hart Rifle Barrels). This with a few additions is from my notes:
"To fit a short chambered & prethreaded barrel, Clamp the barrel in a barrel vise, screw the action onto it, and chamber the GO gauge. Unscrew until the bolt closes and measure the gap between the front of the action and the shoulder of the barrel with feeler gauges. (You already know this as .050", but it never hurts to check.) Put the reamer in a tapwrench, coat it liberally with thread cutting oil, gently insert it until it stops, and measure the gap between the bottom of the tap wrench and the end of the barrel. This measurement isn't as exact, but it lets you know when you're actually cutting. (As others have said, it's not going to need too much removed, but retaking the second measurement as you go will let you know when you've taken an RCH - a unit of ultra fine measurement, the Red C*** Hair ;) ). Pull the reamer and clean the chips off of it with a rag or brush (not with your fingers as tool and chips as you know are very sharp. Be careful what you put the reamer down on, too.) Screw the action back on and try the GO gauge again, measure barrel/action gap. Off with the action, reoil the reamer, then take off another RCH. Repeat until the barrel is fully screwed into the action and the action closes on the GO gauge. When it does, you're good to go. Snug down the action with your action wrench." 8-)
If, by some unlikely mischance you do go too far, it can be easily fixed on a lathe and it's not the end of the world. It takes longer to explain than it does to actually do it. Just go slow, be methodical, when in doubt measure it again. No rocket science involved, only patience. Another time you can learn the slightly more elaborate process to thread a blank on the lathe and then cut the entire chamber, but each step is simple, just like with casting bullets or loading ammo.

Doughty
11-28-2005, 11:29 AM
You might take a peek at jlindustrial.com. Could also order their hardcopy catalog. For casual reading, I like it better than Sears and Roebuck.