Wiring convection fan to stay on constantly

[ghh3rd]

Well I disconnected my convection oven fan which is 120 V. I see a perfect place to connect it so it stays on constantly… right where the 120 V cord comes in... only problem is that they used crimped rather than twisted on. I’m hoping that I can mash them to loosen the wires and then use twist on wire nuts. The wires seem too short to cut.

Regarding hooking the fan up ... there’s the hot and neutral wires, plus the ground wire which is attached to the metal frame. I believe I should just connect the two leads for the fan to the hot and neutral, is that best?

Thanks

Randy

[popper]

Can you connect to the hot side of the timer switch,if it has one? Wires may be longer. If you use the twist-ons, tape it so it woun't come off. The fan (clock motor type) is AC so no polarity.

[Jake McCracken]

I may have read this wrong, so before before you folow my directions make sure my assumptions are correct!


you say there are hot and Neutral wires and a ground, I'm assuming thats from the power source?
you said there are 2 wires coming from the fan. I'm assuming these are both black wires and that the fan is for sure 120v.

If I'm right in my assumptions then hook one wire from the fan to the hot and the other to the neutral and that fan should spin as long as shes plugged in.
As for the crimp, mashing it with some linesman pliers a few times should loosen it up if you hit it on the right angle, may need to work carefully with some side cutters to finish it off.

[Jake McCracken]

Can you connect to the hot side of the timer switch,if it has one? Wires may be longer. If you use the twist-ons, tape it so it woun't come off. The fan (clock motor type) is AC so no polarity.

Agreed if there is a switch or timer, just connecting the goesin and goesout wires together will have the same effect with a lot less work.

[ghh3rd]

Never mind… brain farts over.

Since I am plugging the toaster oven into my PID, the PID will turn ALL power on and off about every second, including the power to the fan... no matter how I wire it. I think my only option is to perhaps install a bus on the inside of the toaster oven and hook the fan wires and a second 120 V cord to the bus.

Looks like I will wind up having to use a separate plug to keep the fan on continuously while using a PID, which isn’t a big deal. Time to dig out another PC power cord from my junk box.

Thanks for all the replies.

[Jake McCracken]

Glad you figured it out. Sometimes asking questions gets you thinking and you solve your own problems!

[second chance]

Since you have to power both the fan and heating element separately anyway, would it be easier to put a AC plug on the heating element to the programmer, and leave the fan and timer switch alone, so that you at least still have a switch on the fan?

[popper]

hook the fan wires and a second 120 V cord to the bus. (sic ... fan to extra cord only) that's what I did. Be sure to strain relief the extra cord.

[ghh3rd]

Hey Popper - I bought a Cable Connecter at Lowe’s for $ .49 that worked great. I was also fortunate to find my Harbor Freight step drill bit that cut a perfectly clean hole for it ... thought I’d have to search for my nibblers to rough out a hole.

Even tinned the wires and used left over terminal connectors from my PID project.

Almost looks like I knew what I was doing ��.