Loading Speer Shot Capsules

[Eutectic45]

Speer Shot Capsules are available in 38, 44 and 45. A big advantage of the capsules is the ability to load more shot without having to use special brass. The capsules also come with a cupped plastic gas seal wad which works better than a card wad. However they are not without problems.

The big disadvantage of the capsules is they must be made of very fragile plastic so they break apart on firing. To prevent pulling out from recoil, you must crimp the capsule securely. When you do this, about a third the time the capsule shatters and you start over. If you do not crimp securely, the capsule will pull out from the light recoil of firing another shot cartridge and bind up the revolver. This limits you to one shot load in the first up position.

Even with a "good" crimp the capsule will sometimes pull after a shot load is fired. A cylinder full of shot shells is asking for a jam. Don't even think about firing a standard cartridge first, the increased recoil will pull the capsule almost every time.

To make capsules work, use clean brass. Fired cases are OK but there must be no residue in the case.
Charge with powder.
Seat the capsules by hand just inside the case.
Apply a small amount of rubber cement around the capsule ahead of the case mouth.
Immediately seat to the recommended OAL and lightly crimp just enough to remove the case mouth bell.
Wipe off any excess rubber cement.
Allow to dry overnight.

Clean out the seating die with lacquer thinner.

Capsules loaded this way will not pull when a regular round is fired and will not tie up your gun. You can load a full cylinder for “Revolver Skeet” or to fend off a company of Copperheads.

The least expensive way to get shot for a small number of loads is to disassemble shotgun shells. Number 9 shot is the smallest size commonly available and works well in 38 and 44 capsules. Number 8 or 7 ½ give fewer shot, but greater penetration. Number 12 shot is desirable in 38 capsules, and gives dense patterns in larger capsules, but is usually available only in 25 pound bags.

Light loads are often recommended with shot loads to improve the pattern. Light loads with Speer Capsules will sometimes fail to rupture the capsule, giving a single projectile. Use Speers load recommendations which come in each box.

Always test your shot cartridges to confirm performance.

[smoked turkey]

Eutectic45 thanks for posting the tip on using rubber cement to help hold the shot capsules in the case under recoil. I use the 44 capsules in my short barreled 44 with great effect but have always experienced cylinder hang-ups due to the capsule backing out, and the thin snap cap that holds the shot in the capsule staying in place in the brass case. This results in shot being released into the cylinder ahead of the end cap and the capsule. With this situation it is impossible to push the capsule back into the brass case. I have taken the cylinder out of the frame in order to clear the jam on more than one occasion. I will try your technique when I can. I think I might also put a small amount of rubber cement on the end cap to also help hold it in place.

[Nueces]

I was thinking about this issue and have an idea that I bet one of y'all will try before I do. These Speer caps are bore size or smaller, not groove size. Thus, they would still fit a case if given a single wrap with clear plastic tape, down on the part covered by the case neck. Place the forward edge of the tape to provide a narrow edge for the case crimp to grab onto.

This would make a better fit in the case neck and would likely increase pull resistance enough to make a difference. Certainly it's easy to try. I've lost my proving ground shooting area, though, so I'm unlikely to be able to try it soon.

[dverna]

The cheapest way to get shot is to buy a bag of it...or make friends with a skeet shooter who reloads. They will have #9 shot.

Good tips though!!!

[Skipper]

I use a drop of Duco cement. Works great!

https://crdms.images.consumerreports.org/prod/products/cr-legacy/production/products/testedmodel/profile/cr/jpg/240/149520-glue-duco-cementmultipurposehouseholdglue.jpg

[Taterhead]

Great ideas. I've had many of the issues previously described. Thanks for posting this thread. Now to find a small quantity of #9 shot.

[Outpost75]

Great thread! I use 242 Loctite to cement the base obturator to the shot capsule, and assemble them ahead. I got nickel-plated No.8 in 10-lb. bags, made by Lawrence from Midway. The No8 works well for me in .44 and .45 cals.o

[crandall crank]

I have found that using a taper crimp die instead of a roll crimp, will greatly reduce the chance of shattering the capsules. Plus, it also lessens the chance of it creeping forward and locking the cylinder....ymmv

[hiram1]

no.1 shot works well to.it holes 3

[jmorris]

As far as breaking and pull out, shot loads in rifled barrels pattern better (ok they still are not great but) if you are not pushing them to maximum velocity’s. You can’t help but run them pretty hot in semiautos to get them to run but in revolvers you can find a happy medium between crimp and pull out pretty easy, if you are loading for how they pattern at 10-15ft, you can have all the velocity you want after that and it won’t matter as the probability of a pellet hitting something diminishes pretty quick at further distances.

[Larry in MT]

Good tip but I've loaded 100s of 38 & 44 CCI capsules and I've never broken one, even though I need to crimp them securely, especially for use in a .38 Airweight snubby.

If you are breaking 1 out of 3, you're using way too much crimp. I use the regular two die set from RCBS for 38s but do have a dedicated crimping die for 44s. I don't load them very hot -- trying for decent patterns. Some years, I use 20 to 30 during the Summer. I've never had one tie up a cylinder and on occasion I've fired all 5.

[parkerhale1200]

Plus one on Larry.
I fired hundreds of (speer)them in 38 and 44.
Never had a problem, its all in the proper crimp.
It must be just enough to hold it firm in place.
They are really great to solve some problems and food.
Lucky we have over here a gundealer that is selling all the sizes shot in 2 pound bags.
He makes good profit to buy big bags and then make it into smaller bags.

[james nicholson]

Don't try to use wad cutter cases, they are too long for a 38. Don't ask how I know that.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Duco cement also works well to attach fletching to your atlatl darts in a pinch :p Interesting idea!

[sniper]

I've loaded the Speer shot capsules for years, and have never had to use glue or tape to hold things together. I guess fortune favors the noob, but before I got my taper crimp die, I found a crimp that will hold things without breakage, and not result in any creep, either in storage or shooting. But...somebody, somewhere suggested a drap of Super Glue to hold it for sure. Duco is good, too. I must have used gallons of it during my model airplane building days! My mom just hated it when I'd wipe my gluey fingers on my levis! I'll have to try it when next I attach feathers to my Atlatl darts.8-)

[watkibe]

I bought a box of Speer 38 capsules, and then realized I couldn't find data. I bought a Speer manual to get it. Then I opened the box of capsules and found the small slip of paper in the bottom with the same data on it. Ha ha, jokes on me.
Seriously, it's a good manual, and you can't have too many reloading books.
I bought 10# of no. 10 shot from BPI. I can use it in target 12 ga loads too, so the whole cost isn't just for shot capsules.

[Chad5005]

I load a box at a time in 38,44 and 45,3 grains titegroup in 38,4 grains titegroup in 44 and 45,light crimp and 1 drop model glue and no problems

[mortarfire]

I liked the old TC Center Hotshot loads. I wish they were still available. I used to take squirrels with my Contender 44 mag with hotshot barrel. They were a lot longer and contained a lot more shot than the Speer.226358

[trapper9260]

I had use Super Glue on the 38spl and dose not hold to well. I still had problems like was stated in the OP. I will have to try the rubber cement.

[mozeppa]

looking for a cheap access to #9 shot?

buy a 12 pack of 12 gauge shot gun shells and cannibalize them. you'l have plenty of shot for
plenty of capsules ....not expensive and no left overs to sit around gathering dust.

[Dale53]

A number of years ago, I experimented with a variety of ways to make shotshells for my revolvers. I ended up using
Speer shot capsules in .38 Special, .44 Special, and .45 Colt. I found that Speer's suggestion to NOT load at max gave better patterns to be correct (well, duh-h-h).

The real break through for me came when I was able to buy a small supply of #12 shot from Ballistic Products. The patterns were MUCH better and at the ranges needed for poisonous snakes would absolutely shred a snakes head. Since the ranges are so close, there was NO problem with penetration of the small shot. They were EXTREMELY effective. They also worked very well on rats in a barn. Further, the small shot were not apt to damage anything in the barn, so another advantage.

#12 shot is expensive but you can buddy up with three or four guys, split the cost, and have a lifetime supply if you are just going to use them for snake and rat control. I used to do a lot of hiking in the mountains and the small #12 shot was also safer to use on rocky ground. It was less apt to bounce back and do serious damage to the user.

FWIW
Dale53