Finally Bought a REAL Lathe...

[PatMarlin]

WoooHooo!!.. [smilie=w:

I found this Logan, 11"x 28" with a pile of tooling including 5C collet tools.

Bought it from a guy that has a clausing and didn't need 2 lathes. Pics show some of the extras but not all. I've got to Pic it up Sunday morning.

What do you guys think? Price was $1200.

I just don't think I could pass it up, and is by far the best deal I have seen in these parts... :Fire:

Here's part of the discription he sent me:

Has a steady rest, tool post holders, bit holders, 5c collet draw bar with most of the parts to make it quick change 5c, has the 5c adapter for the spindle, and some other misc stuff. I'll have to dig everything out of my tool cabinet. I have another lathe, so I don't need two of them. The logan is in pretty nice cond, pretty tight, I went completely through it back in 1990. I only use it occasionally for hobby stuff, and it's never been in a tool room enviroment. I very seldom do a side job for someone like a relative, but even then I think I've done 4 or 5 little side jobs here and there. I mostly used it for small parts, and just tinkering with. I did a lot of work to it back in 1990. Totally dismantled it, new bearings in the head, new split nut for the lead screw, custom made vulcanized flat belt, ( soooooo much better than the ol leather flat belt ). The belt is just as tight as the day I got it. It alone was almost $100. I sand blasted the bed, took it down to so calif and had the whole bed and ways re-ground, not scraped, then it went straight to the hard chrome shop. They flashed it with 2 tenths. They did the whole bed, that way it was even and consistant on the ways. I also had the saddle and tail stock machined, had Turcite installed, and re-machined. This whole effort was about $1000. The ways have a few very minor chips, because of parts flying off and hitting it, the hard chrome chips easily if you bang it. The chips are very minor and have no effect on it's accuracy. I put many hours into re-furbishing it, countless hours.

[No_1]

I would have bought it in a NY minute. You got a GREAT deal!

R.

[GARD72977]

I dealing with a 1947 9" South Bend. Im jealous That is a perfect lathe for home shop!

[MT Gianni]

Way too cool Pat. You just though you were busy. Gianni

[PatMarlin]

Thanks for the comments.. .:drinks:

I brought her home last night. Still on back of the truck.

Now I've got to start learning it.

By a real lathe I ment one that cuts threads, as my chinese one didn't. I think the chinese do make some good lathes, but my HF was a turkey from the start. If I new more about lathes I would have exchanged it for another one with less run out.

[xr650]

Nice looking tool Pat.
What's the spindle hole dia?

[PatMarlin]

I think it's 1 3/8" or close thereabouts. It's still on the back of the truck. I've got to get her off this after noon.

It's a 24". Little shorter than I throught. Sure seems smooth. Saddle glides across it. Feels solid.

I keep finding praise posted on these lathes. One great thing is at 120v, I can run it with my solar system.

[Typecaster]

I have an 11x36 Logan "project" lathe (meaning I've got a bunch of parts for an 11-in. Logan and it's gradually going together, but not a priority). They're—I think—some of the finest examples of Streamline Moderne design: a pleasure to look at the gentle curves, and you'll find the belt cover makes a perfect handrest. Everything is flared and faired...form going beyond function.

Be careful unloading it—I tipped over my "little" 9x24 Logan sliding it off the truck by myself. WARNING: the entire speed changing/motor assembly is supported by one "leg" and two little castings with rubber bushings that bolt to the headstock. They aren't very strong...but can be brazed if necessary. I'd recommend taking the motor/drive assembly off before unloading it...hindsight being 20/20.

Check EvilBay for parts...beds, leadscrews, and chip pans show up regularly and don't go for much (it's the shipping that's a killer). You can make yours an 11x36 by changing just those parts, and if the new bed isn't accurate enough, just put it back like it was.

PM Buckshot—he has an 11-in. Logan as well.

Richard

[Typecaster]

The previous owner had almost as many oxy/acetylene tanks as I do. They're kinda like WWs—hard to pass 'em up when they're free or cheap.

Richard

[PatMarlin]

Know what ya mean on the motor mount. I've got forks for my skid loader, so loading and unloading nowadays is pain less.

I've got the original leg, and will rig extra support when off loading.

[PatMarlin]

The previous owner had almost as many oxy/acetylene tanks as I do. They're kinda like WWs—hard to pass 'em up when they're free or cheap.

Richard

I feel real bad for this guy. His wife was text messaging and speeding a little- hit a lady in a car that I guess had a factory recall fuel line defect, but they never took it in.

The lady burned to death. The family got all the insurance covered and now are taking his house. Very nice place in the mountains.

He's just sic over it, and now selling a lot of his stuff.

[lathesmith]

Nice chunk of iron ya got there, Pat. I don't know much about those old lathes, except they come highly recommended. Enjoy!

lathesmith

[Buckshot]

...............Pat, my lathe is an 11x36 Logan, but actually made by Houdaille Industries (Powermatic) in 1981. They bought all Logans stuff in 1972 IIRC. Logan is still VERY actively supported by the grandson of the founder. They also have a Yahoo E-group moderated by Scott Logan.

See: http://www.lathe.com/faq/

Here's the Logan Lathe Store: http://store.lathe.com/

My friend I bought mine from has one like yours (but a 36" bed) and he has a bunch of parts. Enough so that he can't even remember what he has.

The serial number will be stamped between the front V and flat at the right end of the bed. You can sign up for the Logan E-list and then check the serial. It will tell when the lathe was made and possibly who bought it or who it was shipped to. Logan started as WW2 did and a lot of their lathes went to war in the 40's.

There is an article on the web (or used to be) about a guy who used a 10" Logan to turn a cannon barrel . It was big enough to require a chainfall to get it up on the bed and long enough so it had to be swapped end for end to do it all :-). To bore it they had to go to a guy with a 16" LeBlond with a 5' bed :-)

http://www.fototime.com/B42999491991D09/standard.jpg

This is mine. If you didn't get one with it, I'd sure suggest you get a QC toolpost. Then you'll need a gallon of way oil and a gallon of spindle oil. Also, the apron is wet. It should have oil in it (spindle oil). The apron is 2 pieces, front and back. There is no gasket in between and they depend on a precision fit to seal. It's not uncommon for the oil to 'ooze' over a period of time. On the R/H side of the apron on the front is a pipe plug (unless replaced like I did) this is to check the oil level. I replaced mine with a Gitts spring top oil cup. It's 'L' shaped and threaded 1/8 NPT. All you have to do is lift the lid to check the oil level in the apron that way, and much simpler to add to then removing the oil filler bolt on top of the apron. Be sure to check the way wipers on the carriage. I'd also suggest adding them to the tailstock too.

I see yours also has a Stelling micrometer wheel like mine for the crossfeed. It should be "Direct Reading", meaning if you dial in a thou, it will take a .0005" DOC for a .001" reduction on the OD.

BTW, the hot setup on lathes this size is to retrofit DC motors from treadmills. I don't know if 'any' treadmill motor will work though. BTW, if you need a steady rest let me know :-) .

...................Buckshot

[Jon K]

Good Deal Pat!

Old machinery.............. when things were made to last.........more than just skeleton with lots of stamped steel covers.

Jon

[PatMarlin]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

Just what you posted will keep me busy for awhile studying Rick... :mrgreen:

The seller still has to send me the manual, and other extras when he finds them. His garage was a mess from back trouble.

I don't even know what I have. A bucket of parts and some tools.

[PatMarlin]

He also said he may still have a turret tool rest that will fit this lathe, but needs to did it out. I would like to get that also.

[KCSO]

All I can say is this...

I recently stopped at Doc Carlson's and he was in back cutting threads, ON HIS OLD LOGAN. With a whole shop full of new machines he still says that nothing built today can equall the Logan. I stil use a 1948 South Bend and have tried Grizzly and Smiithy and still go back to the old iron. Kepp it clean and it will still be going for your grandkids.

[PatMarlin]

Just screwed up my lathe... :roll: I am so bummed.

Well I backed my truck up in the shop, and used my chain hoist to unload the Logan.

I had supported the motor assembly and hung the lathe with a wide strap. Had it balanced perfectly, and pulled the truck out from underneath it.

Everything was fine and I was slowly lowering the lathe when the damn chain hoist must have slipped a few notches internally, and the lathe dropped about a foot until the hoist caught again.

It didn't hit the floor, but it tipped vertical hanging by the carriage and bed with a lot of force on the carriage.

One of the motor pivot posts broke, and the motor section was hanging by the flat belt. I secured the lathe with more stapping as it hung and I removed the motor drive shaft so I could get the belt out, and the motor side off.

Finally got the lathe down and upright. During the fall the carriage was pulled to the end of the ways. Now it will only crank about 1" in and it binds up. Thing moved smooth as silk across one end to the other before.

I'm thinking it may have tweaked the rack gear teeth under the ways?

Any ideas?

1000 lb. junk Chinese hoist is going to the junk pile.... :roll:

[45nut]

damn,, that hurts to even read Pat.

[R.M.]

Pat, are the half nuts engaged. That would stop the carriage, minus any back-lash

[Buckshot]

................Pat, bummer man. Good deal about having the lathe supported with a strap. When I first read chain hoist I saw a chain wrapped around the bed in my mind :-) You weren't lifting the lathe via the carriage were you? How did it end up at the end of the bed, or was it the headstock end??

I doubt the rack is messed up, as it's pretty robust and well supported under the front edge of the bed. It could be as RM suggested (half nuts engaged) or if the apron had been set for powerfeeding and the clutch became engaged, you wouldn't be able to hand crank it. Check that the powerfeed lever is in neutral.

The motor setup is fairly simple and it's a shame some parts broke. It will use up time you'd probably rather use doing something else but you shouldn't have a problem getting it back in operation. People have done away with it entirely and made their own mods so as to have it as an underdrive, or to raise the motor up at an angle above the headstock. The main reason was to allow it to sit closer to a wall.

..................Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

1/2 nut- I feel like a full ass right now..:mrgreen:

Rick, I have these nice wide canvas straps with aluminum rings my buddy who is a firefighter gave me. They use them for emergency rescue.

I strapped from around the bottom of the stand pan at a balance point- about 3" over from the head stock. Then I turned the carriage towards the strap to get the rig ballanced.

So what had happened is as the hoist dropped, it violently dropped the lathe with a jolt and it slid vertical, with head towards the floor.

The strap caught the carriage as it tilted, and it moved toward the end as it fell becasue I'm pretty sure I didn't have the carriage at the end where it is stuck now.

Thus the lathe was hanging with the strap under the pan where the leg meets, and wrapped partially around the carriage.

Had I used another strap from end to end, this would not have happened.

I've got to get out my southbend book and study all the terms and controls. I don't even know what the half nut is, unless it's the lever that engages the carriage for your screw feed function. I kinda already played with the controls and couldn't get free as yet, but maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Thanks for the help.

[R.M.]

Pat, yes the 1/2 nuts engage the lead screw. Could be that or as somebody else mentioned, the feed could be engaged. Can you roll the spindle by hand to get things moving or un bound???

[PatMarlin]

Will check.. :drinks:

[Just Duke]

Just screwed up my lathe... :roll: I am so bummed.

Well I backed my truck up in the shop, and used my chain hoist to unload the Logan.

I had supported the motor assembly and hung the lathe with a wide strap. Had it balanced perfectly, and pulled the truck out from underneath it.

Everything was fine and I was slowly lowering the lathe when the damn chain hoist must have slipped a few notches internally, and the lathe dropped about a foot until the hoist caught again.

It didn't hit the floor, but it tipped vertical hanging by the carriage and bed with a lot of force on the carriage.

One of the motor pivot posts broke, and the motor section was hanging by the flat belt. I secured the lathe with more stapping as it hung and I removed the motor drive shaft so I could get the belt out, and the motor side off.

Finally got the lathe down and upright. During the fall the carriage was pulled to the end of the ways. Now it will only crank about 1" in and it binds up. Thing moved smooth as silk across one end to the other before.

I'm thinking it may have tweaked the rack gear teeth under the ways?

Any ideas?

1000 lb. junk Chinese hoist is going to the junk pile.... :roll:

Oh man! almost got tears in my eyes when I read this. Sorry Pat. I always call a tow truck when I need something heavy moved. Hope she can be fixed. At least you wearn't injured.
Who made the hoist? My wife (the attorney) said the hoist vendor would be liable for repairs to your lathe and they would have insurance for just this sort of thing. Also she said home owners insurance covers lots of stuff like this if you dig into your policy. Also you might have hauling insurance for your vehicle which would cover repair and if not repairable replace it. Oh and remember the attorney term "pad your claim" but I never said it. Nope not me. :roll:
Old wives tail. If you file a claim it will make your insurance go up. No Way! ;)

[Just Duke]

Pat, the wife and I will pick up a couple of your splitters when we get completely move up north hope that helps.
One of each model.

[PatMarlin]

Duke thanks for your thoughts. I don't know who made the damn thing, but they do eat rice on a regular basis.. :mrgreen:


OK- I supported the lead screw and pulled the carriage and shazammm... the lead screw gear on the carriage got bent. That's why the carriage binds at about an inch of travel.

Also, the teeth on the end of the rack got buggared up a bit. So some dress up with a file should fix the rack.

How do you get the lead screw gear shaft out of the carriage? I have'nt looked yet, but I would imagine after pulling the crank handle, the gear shaft autta come out.

I may be able to straighten it. Don't have nothing to loose in trying I guess.

[Buckshot]

OK- I supported the lead screw and pulled the carriage and shazammm... the lead screw gear on the carriage got bent.

Also, the teeth on the end of the rack got buggared up a bit. So some dress up with a file should fix the rack.

How do you get the lead screw gear shaft out of the carriage? I have'nt looked yet, but I would imagine after pulling the crank handle, the gear shaft autta come out.

I may be able to straighten it. Don't have nothing to loose in trying I guess.

.............There is no "lead screw gear" as such, to "Get Bent". The lead screw runs behind the apron. It passes though a worm gear. The worm gear is retained via a bushing at either end of the worm, and these 2 bushings are held in bores in the back half of the apron. As the lead screw revolves (driven by the QC box) the keyway in the leadscrew mates with a key in the wormgear causing it to revolve.

When the wormgear revolves it drives a bullgear in the apron, and this gear provides the power (through the clutch) to drive the apron (and hense, the carriage) up and down the bed, or if selected, the crossfeed.

http://www.fototime.com/6BAA7B3FA3B208C/standard.jpg

This is the backside of the apron. On the left are the half nuts. These are used for threading, and close together around the leadscrew.

In the middle is the wormgear, and just below it you can see part of the bullgear. As mentioned before, the leadescrew passes THROUGH the wormgear. The importance of maintianing oil in the apron is the bullgear carries the lube up to the worm gear. Through the worm's rotation, the lube is carried to the bushings at either end.

The large gear in the middle that sticks up is the gear which provides the power for the crossfeed.

At the far right is the rack gear. This gear either manually turned or through the apron's gearing moves the apron/carriage assembly back and forth along the bed by turning against the rack. Is this the gear (probably the shaft) that got bent?

..................Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

Great explantion Rick.

Yes the rack gear shaft is bent, and some of the teeth mushed a little out of shape.

[PatMarlin]

Luckily, the half nuts were not engaged before the accident. Probably would have been more damage.

[Gussy]

I feel for you!! Sorry to hear of it. I'm about to move my mill and 3 lathes. Scares the hell out of me to think about it. I did ask my machinest buddy to help with the move. He has moved several times with his equipment which is much larger than mine. I did move the mill once, to my present shop when I bought it. The lathe, however, is much heavier and IS the part that scares me. I'm going to rent a fork lift to unload and place it.
Gus

[arclight]

Since it's probably the shaft that's bent, you should be able to machine another one from some drill rod.

If the apron feed is out of commission, you could set the change gears to a provide a very fine feed, engage the halfnuts and make your new piece.

If you damaged a leadscrew, your best bet would probably be to buy a piece of acme thread from McMaster-Carr and machine the end to accept a pin or press fit of the original hardware.

Good luck!
Arclight

[Dutchman]

What you guys are calling the rack gear is the pinion gear. The rack (as in rack & pinion) is the straight gear on the bed.

The half-nut is singular. Not half-nuts. Women are half nuts. Lathes have one half-nut:-).

http://www.statetoolgear.com/services/rack.php

Get yourself a Boston Gear catalog. Great education on gears and gearing.

http://www.bostongear.com/products/open/rack.html

http://www.bostongear.com/products/open/theory.html

<ahem> worm gear to the worm wheel.

The bull gear is the large back gear also called the bull gear. Its the one you engage or disengage with the bull pin.

Dad gum! Lookie here:
http://bridgeport.askmisterscience.com/belt.htm

You'll wanna be perusing this guy's nice collection of Logan lathe parts schematics. If its not identical it'll be close.
http://bridgeport.askmisterscience.com/200assemblies.htm


Dutch

[PatMarlin]

Shoot Dutch... I autta have you come over and help me dial this baby in.

I'll be drving right through your area tomorrow... :mrgreen:

[PatMarlin]

Thanks for the links.

My logan is a 1951-52 model 1921. 3/4 hp @1750 rpm.

I realized last night I've got a brand new large Baldor 1.5 hp motor in 1750 rpm. All ball bearing with zirk fittings on each end. Been lugging it around for 12 years. New in the box an never even ran. Bought it new for a peice of equipment I was building, and never used it. That may be an awesome motor for this lathe.

[PatMarlin]

Since it's probably the shaft that's bent, you should be able to machine another one from some drill rod.

If the apron feed is out of commission, you could set the change gears to a provide a very fine feed, engage the halfnuts and make your new piece.

If you damaged a leadscrew, your best bet would probably be to buy a piece of acme thread from McMaster-Carr and machine the end to accept a pin or press fit of the original hardware.

Good luck!
Arclight

Thanks for the ideas. That would be cool. A lathe repairs itself.. :mrgreen:

[Just Duke]

Shoot Dutch... I autta have you come over and help me dial this baby in.

I'll be drving right through your area tomorrow... :mrgreen:


Any luck on your insurance carrier Pat?

[PatMarlin]

Hi Duke,

Actually I hate insurance companies almost as much as attorneys,... no offence or disrespect to your wife, I've got relatives that suffer from the same affliction... :mrgreen:

No- I take care of my own screwups. The only insurance I carry is for major hits.

Good idea though for most people... :drinks:

[Just Duke]

Hi Duke,

Actually I hate insurance companies almost as much as attorneys,... no offence or disrespect to your wife, I've got relatives that suffer from the same affliction... :mrgreen:

No- I take care of my own screwups. The only insurance I carry is for major hits.

Good idea though for most people... :drinks:

I here that.
Liitle joke at my wifes former firm;
They are now perfoming laboratory experiments on Attorney's because there's certain things rats won't even do.

[Dutchman]

Shoot Dutch... I autta have you come over and help me dial this baby in.

I'll be drving right through your area tomorrow... :mrgreen:


I thought about offering to help you since I'm only about 2-3 hours north. I don't know how much lathe experience you have. I've read a little that you have or had a small Chinese non-threading lathe so you have some turning experience or knowledge.

My normal bumming time (24/7) has been altered this week as my 82 yr old mother had hip replacement surgery and is going next monday to a convalescent hospital in Ashland, Orygun for probably month and a half so I'll have lots of time. However, the construction here at my daughter's house where I live has completed the new shop for me, a 12x17 attachment to the garage dedicated to the machine shop. This after being without my lathe for 2 years due to no 220v for the lathe and no room to work. So my equipment has to be inside the new shop so the contractor can install the new door between the garage and new shop through the cinderblock garage wall. We asked him to leave off the door until we got the lathe and mill through the door opening. So the next week is going to be uncharacteristically busy.

Can you give me an idea of your level of experience? Will you have the lathe ready to run in a couple weeks? Do you have dial indicators to align the tailstock? I have a short test bar that's better than nothing but you can always turn a piece of steel and measure each end and adjust the tailstock setover until its deadnuts. Do you have HSS toolbit grinding experience? Have you done single point threading before? Do you have some scrap round bar stock? Faceplate? Live and dead centers? Lathe dogs?

While I have actual skoel book larnin' on lathes and such in college it was 37 yrs ago:). But I have 30 yrs home shop experience in general repair and fabrication, gas welding, brazing, silver soldering. I've worked a couple industrial jobs as a machinist, one at Cutler-Hammer in Denver for a short time, worked with a design engineer as a sub-contractor for Space Ordnance Systems in SoCal long ago and did some strange various jobs like making parts for a torpedo dolly for the Spanish navy, dolphin pins for the US Navy, pyrotechnically fired life vest inflators for the US Navy and some other test fixture stuff for N-ray of pyrotechnics and some fancy pressure chamber devises. Basically electrically fired pipe bombs to measure pressure inside a pressure vessel. Kinda diverse and kinda interesting here and there. But I'm 2 years without my fingers touching the lathe dials so I need to get my sea legs back. I've run the mill somewhat this year but not enough. Let me know what you can and can't do so I have an idea how I can help out.

I do a little wood turning, too. In Dutch its called houtdraaijer. Tonight I had der Weinnerschnitzel imported from Redding.

Dutch

[PatMarlin]

I come from the Dutch Bloodline... "Van Luven"

HeldHaftig Vastberaden Barmhartig!

[Buckshot]

I come from the Dutch Bloodline... "Van Luven"

HeldHaftig Vastberaden Barmhartig!

...............Really? Mom's maiden name was Van Leuven. Settled here in So. California in 1853. Planted the first citrus in the Mission District. Came to the Colonies before the Revolution and were Tories so split to Canada.

..............Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

Uh oh Buck- that means we may be related?

There are not many of us, specially in California.

Oh lord don't tell Allen.. :mrgreen:

[Buckshot]

.................Talked to Glen (Gopher Slayer) last night and explained what your were needing. I have a bunch of old reprints from Glen. Mainly old advertising stuff. One said that prices were going up in 1950 (on some date). I have the Logan 11" ops and parts manual, and also the one from Houdaille for the post 1972 11" machines.

Nowhere does it show the shaft as a seperate part, but they DO show the gear as seperate with a 1/2" bore, AND list a 'gear and 5/8" shaft. In the Logan parts list I got a couple years ago they have a cross reference and apparently BOTH are still available.

LA-548-1 = gear with 5/8" shaft ...............................New part number LP-1268 $110
LA-548 = gear with 1/2" bore ...................................New part number LP -1286 $75

Glen said he would look to see what he had. He does have a complete apron but he won't part that out.

................Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

Thanks for checking on that Rick.

Logan cost are not cheap. I'll get around to taking mine apart and see what's what.

...:drinks:

[Buckshot]

..............Those parts prices aren't bad considering what they're for, and NOT what they are :-) The shaft is going to be made out of ald common garden variety mild steel, and nothing special is really needed. I believe the shaft turns in bores in the cast iron, with no bushings. Since it never revolves very fast it doesn't need any. You should be able to see one end of it (with a ball oiler in the middle) there just above the carriage handwheel on the front of the apron.

To replace it you WILL have to remove the apron because you'll have to open it up. Hopefully you can crank it down to the end of the leadscrew, and off. If not you'll have to remove the rack from under the bed to accomplish it. It's no big deal, just something you'd rather not have to be spending time on.

However, since it will be off and the saddle is easily removed also (remove the underside gibbs) , now would be the perfect time to add a Gitts spring top oiler to each arm of the saddle.

...............Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

Already took the apron off last week. I'll see if I can get to it tonight.

"Gitts spring top oiler"? Where can I find, or see those?


..............Those parts prices aren't bad considering what they're for, and NOT what they are :-) The shaft is going to be made out of ald common garden variety mild steel, and nothing special is really needed. I believe the shaft turns in bores in the cast iron, with no bushings. Since it never revolves very fast it doesn't need any. You should be able to see one end of it (with a ball oiler in the middle) there just above the carriage handwheel on the front of the apron.

To replace it you WILL have to remove the apron because you'll have to open it up. Hopefully you can crank it down to the end of the leadscrew, and off. If not you'll have to remove the rack from under the bed to accomplish it. It's no big deal, just something you'd rather not have to be spending time on.

However, since it will be off and the saddle is easily removed also (remove the underside gibbs) , now would be the perfect time to add a Gitts spring top oiler to each arm of the saddle.

...............Buckshot

[Buckshot]

Already took the apron off last week. I'll see if I can get to it tonight.

"Gitts spring top oiler"? Where can I find, or see those?

............At MSC. www.mscdirect.com The spring top oil cups are on pages 2583 and 2584 of their catalog.

Since you have a real lathe now, MSC and Enco will become your very good friends :-)

..............Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

I got the shaft and gear out of the apron today. It's a shaft with the pinion gear on it, and it has a keyway for the drive gear inside the apron. It doesn't drive directly of the crank handle.

Thought I was going to have to take the whole arpon apart. Still may if I can't get the half moon key to stay put when I reinstall it.

Looks like the shaft and pinion gear maybe one piece. Or maybe it's pressed on but it sure is hard to tell and it sure is bent.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

A trick to re installing a woodruff key, is to tap the edge of the slot oh so slightly, just enough to hold the key when you slip on the part with the keyway. You should have to tap the key back into the slot.
Morgan

[PatMarlin]

Thanks for that tip Morgan.

Someone had done that and I had to file it down to get a brass bushing off of the shaft.

I thing I'll be able to get it back together. Spending $110 on the shaft and gear will be tougher.. :mrgreen:

[GOPHER SLAYER]

Pat I sent you a message but Buckshot informed me today that you did not receive it.I have some parts for the 11 inch Logans so when you find out if you tweeked something let me know what part and maybe I have it. ROTS A RUCK

[PatMarlin]

Hi GS,

I need the crank feed pinion gear and shaft that's in the apron. I'll take a pic of this one.

[PatMarlin]

Here it tis... notice the gear traveling north... :mrgreen:

[Buckshot]

...............Is the gear and shaft one piece?

................Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

Sure looks like it to me.

[Buckshot]

.............Well, we'll have to see if Gopher Slayer has one. Is the shaft 5/8" OD? An option is to send it to me and I'll part the shaft off and bore the gear .4985" then turn down some 5/8" stock to .5000". I don't know if I have a keyseat cutter the right width and OD though. Drilling through for the oiler passage is no big.

Put the shaft in the chest freezer overnight and heat the gear up, then press'em together. Finish up with a #0 taper pin for good measure and you should be back in bidness. I'm sure the shaft isn't anything special steel wise. Probably low or medium plain carbon steel I'm sure (especially seeing it bent like that :-)

...............Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

The steel is real soft Rick.

I PM'd gopher that night righ after he posted and PM'd me, but no answer. I wonder if he has his email noticed clicked on?

I get .623 with dial calipers.

[Just Duke]

Just curious Pat what's the total cost of all the parts you need and are they still available?

[Buckshot]

Just curious Pat what's the total cost of all the parts you need and are they still available?

From post #44:

.................Talked to Glen (Gopher Slayer) last night and explained what your were needing. I have a bunch of old reprints from Glen. Mainly old advertising stuff. One said that prices were going up in 1950 (on some date). I have the Logan 11" ops and parts manual, and also the one from Houdaille for the post 1972 11" machines.

Nowhere does it show the shaft as a seperate part, but they DO show the gear as seperate with a 1/2" bore, AND list a 'gear and 5/8" shaft. In the Logan parts list I got a couple years ago they have a cross reference and apparently BOTH are still available.

LA-548-1 = gear with 5/8" shaft ...............................New part number LP-1268 $110
LA-548 = gear with 1/2" bore ...................................New part number LP -1286 $75

.................Buckshot

[Jon K]

Rick,

If you can't see where it is 2 pieces and seperates, it is probably a shrink-fit.

Jon

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Thanks for that tip Morgan.

Someone had done that and I had to file it down to get a brass bushing off of the shaft.

I thing I'll be able to get it back together. Spending $110 on the shaft and gear will be tougher.. :mrgreen:

Then they didn't do it correctly. The slot should just be upset enough to narrow it so the key will be held. There should be no material raised outside the OD of the shaft. What might have happened, is that the Woodruff key was loose, and by wobbling back and forth, widened the slot, raising the metal around it.
Morgan

[Just Duke]

Hope this isn't out of line or stepping on anyones pride but can we throw some funds into a hat? I mean Pats going to be the new check maker magnate on the internet so I am assuming this would be the machine he will be using to make these to benefit us all....
Just thinking out loud.

Delete this if I'm stepping on toes mods.

[10-x]

Duke,
I'm in for a Pats pet lathe repair fund pool.[smilie=1:

[Just Duke]

Duke,
I'm in for a Pats pet lathe repair fund pool.[smilie=1:

Cool! Hope the powers that be think so to. Wonder if he has a pay pal addy we could send funds to.
If we all kick in $10 to $20 we could get him back on line..:bigsmyl2:
Maybe get enough for a house call repair.

[PatMarlin]

Well what is this? I'm all teared up.. -sniffle..:cry:

Well my lathe is still sitting unfixed cause of priorities like finishing the roof that sits over it.

I'm not making the Checkmakers, it's my friend Bob who's doing the machining. I'm doing everything else.

We are going up to their place in Washington for Thanksgiving, and I think I'm going to take him my lathe so he has another one set up to help.

Kinda don't want to as I just bought it, broke it, then haven't got to turn a thing on it yet..

... :roll::mrgreen:

[Just Duke]

Well what is this? I'm all teared up.. -sniffle..:cry:

Well my lathe is still sitting unfixed cause of priorities like finishing the roof that sits over it.

I'm not making the Checkmakers, it's my friend Bob who's doing the machining. I'm doing everything else.

We are going up to their place in Washington for Thanksgiving, and I think I'm going to take him my lathe so he has another one set up to help.

Kinda don't want to as I just bought it, broke it, then haven't got to turn a thing on it yet..

... :roll::mrgreen:

Were all brothers here Pat so the head honch's might be along soon and possibly sanction this.

[Buckshot]

I just bought it, broke it, then haven't got to turn a thing on it yet..
... :roll::mrgreen:

..........I TOLD you if you'd send me the gear and bent shaft I'd make a new shaft and fit it to the gear. Or were you pulling a Buckshot and not paying attention? :-)

1) Part shaft off gear.
2) Drill , then ream .6235" hole in gear for new shaft.
3) Take 5/8" shaft, polish OD length of gear. Put overnight in chest freezer.
3A) Heat gear to 400 degrees
3B) Remove shaft from deep freeze and press together.
4) Locate and cut woodruff keyseat
5) Drill and taper ream through gear and shaft for #1 taper pin
6) Tie ribbon around it and mail back to cousin Pat
7) Pat back in the turning bidness.

.................Buckshot

[PatMarlin]

..........I TOLD you if you'd send me the gear and bent shaft I'd make a new shaft and fit it to the gear. Or were you pulling a Buckshot and not paying attention? :-)

1) Part shaft off gear.
2) Drill , then ream .6235" hole in gear for new shaft.
3) Take 5/8" shaft, polish OD length of gear. Put overnight in chest freezer.
3A) Heat gear to 400 degrees
3B) Remove shaft from deep freeze and press together.
4) Locate and cut woodruff keyseat
5) Drill and taper ream through gear and shaft for #1 taper pin
6) Tie ribbon around it and mail back to cousin Pat
7) Pat back in the turning bidness.

.................Buckshot

You're right cousin. I missed that. You know about that attention span problem that runs in the family..,. :mrgreen:

That is mighty kind of you.

Looks like your Checkmaker will be on the house as well... :drinks:

[Jon K]

Pat,

YEAH........SEND IT TO RICK....................and don't look back. It''l get fixed,you can put it back together and make chips.
I still remember 2 things:
1. If you ain't making chips, you wasted your money.
2. If the chip aren't blue, it's not working.
Oh...and of course.............Elbows and A_$H__ES, now get back to work.

Then when you make enough $$, you won't feel the pinch, when you pay for the Shiloh................

Jon

[451whitworth]

having bought a lathe and mill a few years back just for my gun hobby i sometimes wonder how i ever got along without them. i used to have to impose on my two machinest friends to make me stuff. now i just impose on them for their knowledge.

[PatMarlin]

Welcome to cast boolit heaven 451... :drinks:

Tell you one thing... machine work sure is a whole lot less physical demanding than metal fab- grinding and welding, and a whole lot healthier.