Annealing Brass

[Sprue]

I have a bunch of 223 brass that needs annealed. I have an acetylene outfit, also have the little (hand) propane bottle torch. Which one would you recommend?

Do you have a method to turn or spin the individual brass as to get an even heat applied or do you do it in bulk?

I understand its best to anneal in very low light.

Whats your process?

Thanks

[runfiverun]

apan of water to act as a heat sink to keep you from annealing the bottoms [head] of the cases.
a marker crayon [ the temp indicating ones] and your heat source.
you wanna get them over 600*-615* for about 15 secs. them cool them down.
figure on ruining a couple to start.
take your time and set a pace ,soon enough you won't need the marker.

[osage]

I used a propane torch with the cases (30 carbine) standing in water. Tipped them over to cool. Was a pain to heat even. I wanted to use cordless screwdriver w/case in a socket but battery was shot. But it worked. I had trouble trimming the cases even with a new Wilson trimmer before annealing. No problems reloading or inspection of cases after firing.

[oneokie]

Go to this thread, it has pics.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=20150

Sounds like the tool in that thread is what you are wanting.

Use the search function using the key word "annealing"

[.38 Special]

I use a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch and my fingers. I hold the case by the base and rotate the neck/shoulder inside the flame. When the neck and shoulder glow dully, I drop the case into the water. If the base gets too hot to hold, I know I've ruined the case.

I only anneal .416 Rigby though, and don't know if smaller cases would heat too quickly for this method to work.

[S.R.Custom]

How to anneal a lot of cases really fast:

Take a baking pan and fill it with about an inch of water. Lay a wooden ruler or paint stirrer lengthwise across the ends of the baking pan, spanning the water. Line up about 20 cases on the ruler about 1/2 to 3/4" apart. With two Bernz-O-Matic torches --one in each hand-- put the flames directly on each side of the case neck. As soon as the case neck & shoulder turns blue (with two torches this happens quite quickly) bump the case off the ruler into the water with one of the torches. Go to the next one...

If you do it right, the .223 cases will look just like those purdy military cases. And with two torches, the necks & shoulders get hot quick, too quick for the rest of the case to even think about getting warm. ;)

[James C. Snodgrass]

Simular to 38 Special I use torch and fingers it does take a little practice to get right but it is worth the trouble. Good luck James

[DLCTEX]

I just stand them in a pan of water and heat each side of the neck, (first one side, then the other) in a room with low light. Just a hint of red then knock the case over to cool and stop scaling. Err on the side of too little heat rather than too much. DALE

[pdawg_shooter]

I fire up my lead pot, bring my lead to 750, stick the neck and shoulder in. When the heat get to much for my finger I drop the case in water. Works fine for me.

[xyrth]

I fire up my lead pot, bring my lead to 750, stick the neck and shoulder in. When the heat get to much for my finger I drop the case in water. Works fine for me.

that's the same process i've been using, makes modifying .223 brass for 7tcu and .221 fireball reloading a breeze.