View Full Version : First ever attempt at casting...
Well, all my casting goodies arrived today and I decided to take a run at it this afternoon. Not too terrible of a process, having never done it before.
230gr from the 309 Lee Blackout mold. Random samples all mic out at 310 or so using processed range lead. Water quenched, ladled from a Lyman Big Dipper.
First batch:
208389
Thoughts, opinions, criticisms?
MyFlatline
11-24-2017, 07:31 PM
Look good to me, hard to tell in the picture but how are the bases, square or rounded. Any wrinkles?..
Congrats. on a new beginning..
William Yanda
11-24-2017, 08:20 PM
Welcome! You are not alone.
Look good to me, hard to tell in the picture but how are the bases, square or rounded. Any wrinkles?..
Congrats. on a new beginning..
Bases are nice and square. I had to throw a few back, but I guess it’s part of the learning curve. There are some imperfections, but I’m wondering if PC will even them out. Just some subsonic plinking rounds. I’m certainly not ready to cast for accuracy. Lol.
MyFlatline
11-24-2017, 10:09 PM
Bases are nice and square. I had to throw a few back, but I guess it’s part of the learning curve. There are some imperfections, but I’m wondering if PC will even them out. Just some subsonic plinking rounds. I’m certainly not ready to cast for accuracy. Lol.
Heck I still have culls. PC helps some but try and pick the good ones. not bad that the culls go back in the pot with no waste. I prefer the PC, might be worth pursuing.
Good job, you hooked now..
Nice! I just started too. I got into this to save money but so far it’s just been a money dump with the mould group buys etc LOL. You’ve been warned!
I hear ya, there. I wasn’t sure if it would be something I would enjoy, as I initially just wanted to save some money with all the shooting I do (300-400 rounds per week), but now I find myself looking at bigger pots and more molds for other calibers. I’m hooked.
"I got into casting to save money."
Famous last words! Lol. ��
OS OK
11-25-2017, 12:23 AM
Well, that's good news that you are hooked...welcome aboard.
While you are working this mold, try this...get yourself a hotplate and put an old skill saw blade over the coil, turn it up to 50% and place that mould on the saw blade on the hot plate while your lead is melting in the pour pot. Prop the handles if you have to so the bottom of the mould is flat on the blade and it will heat evenly.
When the lead (Pb) is ready the mould will be up to temperature too. It may or may not cast perfect casts the first fill but within a couple of cast it will start throwing perfect casts without wrinkles.
Another tip is to pour your Pb in the center of the sprue plate hole so it doesn't chill as it enters the cavity. Give yourself a generous puddle over each cavity...that'll do two things, one..it'll give the cooling cast extra metal to draw from as it solidifies in the cavity, two...it will get that sprue plate good and hot so it won't chill the Pb as it hits in the hole.
(edit)> A couple of those cast look like one part of one of the cavities may have a minute smear of oil in it...make sure you scrub the mold with dish soap and hot water with a nylon tooth brush, the cavities and mould faces must be kept clean.
If you can understand what you are doing with that long rifle cast, pistol rounds will be a breeze.
Keep us posted and post good, well lit photos of your work so that helping you troubleshoot will be simple.
glad your here . . . c h a r l i e
CASTER OF LEAD
11-25-2017, 02:48 AM
JayT, First off welcome to the addiction that is casting.
I think those look very good for your first attempt. As was stated earlier you want good crisp square bases and proper fill out. I cast 174gr. Lachmiller FN boolits for my 2 - 30-30 rifles. (Marlin 336sc, and REM. 788.) I shoot pan lube , lube sized, as well as PC from both of them. Just a tip. Don't rely on PC to take up any imperfections. 2 reasons why: 1. Culls are easily remelted and cast. 2. It is the beginning of a habit that may haunt you down the road.
By that I am saying if you concentrate on making the best possible boolits now. It will help with your casting in that, your learning process will develop to the point where you know every boolit that you are casting and keeping will perform as consistent as you are. PC is a great thing ,but work on your casting abilities. I don't make "plinking boolits" any cast boolit I keep is as best as I can make. It pays off later down the road. Keep at it and one day you will sit back and say That man might have been on to something. Lol just my opinion and ain't saying it's the only way. Welcome aboard and enjoy the hobby it's a great way to spend time. Oh and do t fall into the "we do this to save money trap". It's how we all started thinking and found out down the road it's all a lie. You will soon find out . I need this , I need that, that would be a good mold for this gun. Etc.etc. Lol. HOPE I HELPED. - CASTER
copdills
11-25-2017, 05:55 AM
looks great, congrats brother , you are now a member of the silver stream
Thank you all for the advice. It will be heeded, as I realize what a learning process this.
Took some of the first batch and tried powdercoating today.
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Smoke4320
11-25-2017, 03:02 PM
I would say you are off to a great start. Watch the bases and drive bands .. If target or Hunting bullets ...If bases are not square or drive bands wrinkled chunk em back in the pot .
good job
OS OK
11-25-2017, 03:26 PM
Mic them...size if needed and start your load work-ups...post pictures of your targets with info on load, distance ect. Prolly lots of fellas here can give you some good advice on dialing those 'orange torpedoes' in easy.
Some here find casting and coating easy...looks like you are in that group.
Grmps
11-25-2017, 03:28 PM
JayT , welcome to the world of casting and powder coating.
the google custom search @ the top right of all forum pages can be your best friend for information. It will lead you to thousands of threads on this forum answering practically any question you may have. If you can't find what your looking for you can alwys ask it's very rare that someone here won't have the answer your are looking for.
Rifle bullets are more sensitive to imperfections than handgun /plinking boolits since you push them harder/faster and any imperfection will escalate the imbalance especially in longer range shots.
Many of us have done worse in our first casting experience.
I have a few items to think about
A lead thermometer and eventually a PID controller to keep your lead @ an even temperature.
Scrub your mold (again with a toothbrush and dish soap, acetone, alcohol ...) lightly smake the cavities (I use a stick lighter) lube the pins and sprue plate pivot.
Here are some basic help videos @ Lee that might help https://leeprecision.com/bullet-casting-help-videos.html
I smelt all lead before putting it in my pot. Seeing your dipping it's not a critical but do flux the lead once or twice before casting.
Your boolits aren't quite filling out all the way, this could be from a cold mold, to cool lead, not enough tin (pewter) in your lead.
PC really shouldn't be relied on to cover imperfections, PC is lighter than lead, the boolit will look good but will not be balanced.
Extreme Hardness is not always your friend or required, bullet fit is the most important equation. Slug your barrel, and start 2 thou over then go up or down from there. Lead hardness and how hard/fast you push the boolit can affect diamiter requirements and need for gas checks
PC looks a little thick/lumpy ( great job for the first try) try knocking off the excess PC before coating
If you are PCing, quenching your boolits after casting is not gaining you anything cause the oven heat in PCing will take the hardness boack out of the lead. Quenching after PCing may help a little (this I do not know for certain)
My 2 ¢ worth -- food for thought
These will all be shot subsonic through a suppressor on an SBR, so I figured this would be a good round to get my feet wet with, since there really isn’t any use for these bullets over 30-50 yards with an 8” barrel, and they don’t have to be as accurate as if they were hunting/target rounds. I do, however, want to get them as perfect as I can before I start casting for my distance guns or for my 9mm SMG- no room for imperfection at 600 yards or 850 rounds per minute!
Today’s casting had better fillout than yesterday’s, and I think that’s because I left the mold on the rim of my pot longer to bring it to temperature. All the bases seemed more square and I think my pressure pour technique has improved, as I had no obvious culls from bad bases as I was water dropping them.
With the powder coat, the second batch had better (more even) coverage, as I preheated the bullets at low temp this time before applying the powder and baking.
MyFlatline
11-25-2017, 05:34 PM
Sounds like you are on a roll..Congratulations.
It's a great feeling , isn't it...
Grmps
11-25-2017, 05:34 PM
Glad things are getting better.
What PC are you using
Glad things are getting better.
What PC are you using
Junk Harbor Freight red. Cheap and readily available, but I think I’m gonna step up and buy some real powder and see if that covers better. Guess it’s like any paint- you get what you pay for.
Sounds like you are on a roll..Congratulations.
It's a great feeling , isn't it...
Thank you! And yes, it’s very cool to be able to form the cases from .223, create the bullets from lead ingots, and then load them up. Total investment per round is right around $0.15. Sig’s subsonic .300 BLK is more than $1 each around here. Can’t see paying someone else that kind of premium just for the convenience.
Grmps
11-25-2017, 05:43 PM
Smoke4320, a vendor here has tried and true PC for a fair price
John Boy
11-25-2017, 06:25 PM
Jay - If I may ...
Warm the clean mold and properly fluxed melt up to the same temperature so that with a 5 second ladle pour ( the spout in the sprue hole) - the sprue puddle frosts in 5 to 8 seconds. Then cut the sprue plate from the bullet base. If the bullet base is not completely flat and has sharp edges when you cut the plate - you didn't cast correctly. Cast with the same rhythm and the same temperature of the melt, then the bell curve of your bullets will decrease. Do it correctly and you can achieve a half grain variance for any given batch of bullets that you will be proud of. And be sure to use a thermometer to maintain the melt temperature
Next project: dummy rounds for cycling and mag feed check.
So, I made a couple dummy rounds up from some of the fuggliest bullets I made up, since I’d be yanking them and tossing them anyway. From everything I’ve read, you should flare case mouths when loading cast bullets to prevent swaging of the lead. I used a Lee Universal flaring tool and put the tiniest amount of flare on my cases (reformed Lake City .223). So small that you could barely see it unless you held them up to your nose and stared. Figured I could work my way up, if need be. Seated the bullets and they dropped straight to the bottom of the case. Too much flare. Pulled the bullets and started over. Reformed the case using my full length sizer die. Re-flared using even less flare. Re-seated the bullets and they did not fall, but after using the factory crimp die, they spun in the case with a little twisting pressure applied. Dialed up the crimp- same result. Dialed it up again. No change. Pulled the bullets again, reformed the cases again, and mic’d the ID of the case (.3035). Mic’d the widest part of the bullet (.3120) just below the bands. Shouldn’t be a problem, right? For the hell of it, I seated the bullet using no flare at all, and it fits like a glove. No spinning, no wobbling, no clicking when pulled. No swaging from seating, except a tiny bit of the overly thick powder coat that these two bullets had. Since it didn’t seem to need it, I didn’t even crimp it.
So I guess my question is, did the lead expand the case as it was going in, since the bullets have a slight boat tail, and they are being held in by neck tension only? Follow up question... if that’s the case, is that okay, and can I move on with testing, assuming they feed and chamber properly?
Pictures. I know they’re ugly as hell. They’re culls used only for this test.
208460
bbogue1
11-25-2017, 09:19 PM
You did well, you should have seen my first attempts. I quickly found that I needed to slightly tip the mold away from me so the first cavity I filled didn't run over into the second. That pretty much cured wrinkles. Yep if you can pour into the center of the hole in the sprew plate that is the best. I also learned to heat my mold sprew plate to keep the lead molten. About a half inch of excess lead on the sprew plate is a great size to keep it warm. I found a short time in the mold is best, knock off the sprew as soon as the lead is no longer liquid, that gave me sharper bases, I think.
I make bullets then a few days later I'll do the PC. I, too use HF, but Smoke4320 and randyrat have better powder. I do not want the PC step to alter hardness so with a few exceptions, I do the process that Elvis Ammo on Youtube just video'd about using low temp. I do find my PC coating sticks better if the bullets are a tiny bit above room temp. I also gently tap the bottom of my screen just before putting them in the oven to remove excess powder. I use a copper infused (Yoshi) mat under my PC bullet when heating and ONLY the bullets go into the water. Dampness causes PC to clump. Short time, low temp, water cool before annealing can begin.
I use a alloy calculator recommended by Brass Magnet (it is on this forum to download for free) to figure out my alloy content. Can't beat it. Tells me what to add, how many bullets of my size choice I'll get. I add 2 pounds to my pot at a time so my calculations are based upon a 2 pound melt. You can choose from many lead sources, many tin sources and whether you are adding arsenic or not..Welcome to the casting team, lots of answers here, but, you have it down very, very well.
Oh yes, your cost per round goes way down but your expended round count will go up. Your fun content exceeds any other count you can imagine.
Horrific keyholing in first test.
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Made my dummy rounds. Think I solved the loose bullet in cartridge problem. Loaded one live round to paper test at ten feet. The horrific results speak for themselves. I used some Titegroup since I didn’t have any A1680 handy and started with a load for a similar weighted round and erred on the low side for my powder charge. It was six grains, which is within the published range for a 230gr .45.
I know it wasn’t a genius move to use a pistol powder and a guesstimate, but it has been done in the past with good results. Not ideal, I know. But still safe.
Anyway... anyone have any thoughts on why there was zero bullet stability at such a short range? I didn’t chrono the round, but it was definitely subsonic. Too little powder? I’ve never had a keyhole like this even when the bullet has basically just coughed out of the barrel at 700fps from too little powder, so I can’t really say if that’s what it was. I’m only postulating too little powder because the bolt didn’t stay open after I fired the round. Barrel looked clean, so I don’t think it was bouncing around on its way out. Projectile is unretrievable, so there is no way to know for sure.
OS OK
11-26-2017, 01:13 PM
I suspect that you may have to slug that bore, your description of that cast spinning in the case after seating is a little out of the ordinary too.
Cast is too small in diameter? Case neck expanded too much?
I dunnoh?
I suspect that you may have to slug that bore, your description of that cast spinning in the case after seating is a little out of the ordinary too.
Cast is too small in diameter? Case neck expanded too much?
I dunnoh?
Bore is .3096, bullet fired today mic’d at .3105 at its widest point
Bullet spinning in case has been corrected.
I’m thinking that they’re fitting in the bore okay, which is why I’m scratching my head about that knuckleball that came out of the barrel.
OS OK
11-26-2017, 01:39 PM
YOU SAID 700 FPS...maybe that a case of 'classic under-stabilization'....kick the next load in the butt a little harder.
Sorry you are having so many hurdles to jump...don't give up!
YOU SAID 700 FPS...maybe that a case of 'classic under-stabilization'....kick the next load in the butt a little harder.
Sorry you are having so many hurdles to jump...don't give up!
No, I meant I’ve had rounds that I’ve handloaded in the past chrono that slow without keyholing. FMJ rounds, just to see how slow I could keep them stable at.
This gun eats factory rounds and FMJ handloads and spits them out like it was nothing. This is the first time I’ve ever shot a cast bullet, so I have no point of reference.
Trying to troubleshoot my way through it. If you see a bunch of lead and casting stuff in the classifieds from me, you’ll know that’s when I gave up. Lol.
OS OK
11-26-2017, 02:47 PM
I am by no means an expert on this but...here's what I am thinking...
*Every cast needs to be cast without inclusions, properly sized and lubed for optimal accuracy.
*Every cast, because of its 'center of gravity', diameter and length must be spun up to some level of RPM, revolutions in order for it to track and stabilize accurately.
* Many other details in loading the cast to insure optimal concentricity, also it's physical able to go into battery without changing that or moving the COAL from the abuse it may or may not take going into battery...on and on with the minute details in quality in reloading.
This list is almost endless, but...I suspect this cast, this profile is not being spun up enough to track and stabilize unless there is a major defect in the rifle's crown.
Like I said, I'm stumped and really dunnoh...where is LARRY GIBSON?
;/ . . . c h a r l i e
PS...good post, I love trying to solve riddles like this...I learn too!
MyFlatline
11-26-2017, 04:31 PM
I don't have an answer but had a similar experience. Had a batch of 44's that decided to go sideways, load, lube and size were the same, only thing I finally decided was that somehow I changed the alloy mix. Funny tho, they tested the same hardness.
Don't give up, You are doing superbly so far..
blikseme300
11-26-2017, 04:46 PM
I could not get the Lee 230gn to stabilize without adding a gas check. Yes, a Hornady 30cal gas check does fit on the boat tail. The mold I have dropped at .3085" so I ended up lapping it to drop at .310" on the driving area. Powder coat would have helped but I tried this mold a few years ago.
When measuring the dropped CB the whole driving area needs to be big enough, not just a part of it. I'm guessing that the keyholing you are experiencing is due to the CB not engaging the rifling properly and is not being spun enough.
I could not get the Lee 230gn to stabilize without adding a gas check. Yes, a Hornady 30cal gas check does fit on the boat tail. The mold I have dropped at .3085" so I ended up lapping it to drop at .310" on the driving area. Powder coat would have helped but I tried this mold a few years ago.
When measuring the dropped CB the whole driving area needs to be big enough, not just a part of it. I'm guessing that the keyholing you are experiencing is due to the CB not engaging the rifling properly and is not being spun enough.
The biggest section of the bullet is definitely below the driving bands. I take it this is NOT a good thing?
Maybe I’ll try beagling the mold and see if drops bigger across the entirety of the bullet. I thought about doweling the base with some light sandpaper and making it a PB bullet, but was advised not to do that.
I’m at my wits end with this whole deal. About to just start buying FMJs again.
Update
In an attempt to remove variables before casting again, I went ahead and re-prepped and re-smoked my mold. Cleaned it all bright and shiny, drowned it with alcohol and swabbed the cavities out until they were glimmering. Used wooden matches and left a fat coat of carbon across the mold. Re-lubed and anti-seized where appropriate. Then I took two small pieces of aluminum tape and placed one on either size of the cavities. Heated everything up and cast another ten bullets.
208502 208503 208504
Does anyone see anything wrong with these bullets before I go ahead and powder coat them?
As cast, they are 231 grains, and anywhere from .3095 to .3110 across the fattest part of the bullet. My previous attempts that keyholed all to hell were .310 AFTER powdercoat, so I figure I’ll pick up another bit after coating these- maybe .311 or so, which is bigger than my slugged bore, so it should theoretically pick up the rifling without a problem.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
MyFlatline
11-26-2017, 07:11 PM
Shoot for .002 over bore, even if you have to double coat, just my .02
Shoot for .002 over bore, even if you have to double coat, just my .02
When I double coat, they look like ****. Any tips on applying a second coat?
MyFlatline
11-26-2017, 07:50 PM
When I double coat, they look like ****. Any tips on applying a second coat?
Sorry, I've never had to..Just was thinking of growing the bullet..
Might try some, even tho they look like poo just to see if that helps.. I'm a thinkin hard for ya :)
OS OK
11-26-2017, 09:01 PM
Try this that you've done first before trying the double coat...one change at a time. Remember the incremental steps and the changes they make...
Hey...this is all part and parcel of working up a load, a difficult one at best but prolly not unsolveable...think of all that you are aware of already and it ain't fixed yet...You are making some 'giant steps' in the learning curve,
enjoy the process. This, so far is not a road block...only a good challenge.
blikseme300
11-26-2017, 09:27 PM
JayT, are you running these through a sizer die prior to loading? Sizing will uniform the driving area and prevent the loaded rounds from having chambering issues. I size at .310". BTW, your castings look very good, better than what I did in the beginning even after a few casting sessions.
JayT, are you running these through a sizer die prior to loading? Sizing will uniform the driving area and prevent the loaded rounds from having chambering issues. I size at .310". BTW, your castings look very good, better than what I did in the beginning even after a few casting sessions.
I sized the first batch through a .309 sizer. The second batch I didn’t size at all.
I went all over these cases with a mic and calipers and found something interesting. My first group of cases that I made had a larger neck ID than the second batch I did. I think my decapping and sizing die wasn’t in far enough on the second batch, and they were at the top of the box. I dialed it down some and resized the cases, shrinking them a touch around the neck. I put a tiny flare on the newly sized case, seated a bullet and them put a gentle crimp on it with the Lee Factory Crimp Die.
NOW ALL THE WIGGLE IS GONE FROM THE BULLET.
First problem solved.
Taterhead
11-27-2017, 12:11 AM
Neck inside diameter is crucial. If your bullets are sized 309, then a 308 or 307 expander would be appropriate. Or if using a bushing or collet style neck sizer, whatever sized get the ID of the neck a thousandth or two below bullet diameter.
I've noticed a fair amount of diameter variation after PC, so sizing them post-coat is a regular part of my routine.
The photos are nice. You're off to a great start.
Neck inside diameter is crucial. If your bullets are sized 309, then a 308 or 307 expander would be appropriate. Or if using a bushing or collet style neck sizer, whatever sized get the ID of the neck a thousandth or two below bullet diameter.
I've noticed a fair amount of diameter variation after PC, so sizing them post-coat is a regular part of my routine.
The photos are nice. You're off to a great start.
Thanks! Trying to work through these issues one at a time. I didn’t realize my die wasn’t all the way seated on some of the cases, and now I have the magic of neck tension again. So instead of listing everything in the classifieds, I’m gonna give it another shot tomorrow. Hopefully, I’ll get a result that doesn’t look like someone threw a Chinese throwing star at my target and I can start working on load development in earnest.
Success!! Went out and got some Accurate 1680 and used a known good load from my FMJ heavy handloads. Tweaked it a bit and got this...
208531
No keyholing! FINALLY.
230gr Lee Mold
HF Red powdercoat
.309 sized
100% double fluxed range lead
11.0gr Accurate 1680
CCI Small Rifle Primer
Cut-down and reformed Lake City brass with a mild crimp applied with a Lee Factory Crimp Die
Cycles the action and has LRBHO while remaining subsonic.
I have to say that cast bullets are a success. Now I can stop cussing and start casting. Just need to work on refining my pour technique, and try to make powdercoating that doesn’t look like a Jackson Pollack painting.
Thank you, everyone, who replied with help and suggestions in this thread. Couldn’t have done it otherwise. ��������
gwpercle
11-27-2017, 03:22 PM
Nice! I just started too. I got into this to save money but so far it’s just been a money dump with the mould group buys etc LOL. You’ve been warned!
Saving money is what we tell our wives we are doing as we spend even more money on " necessary stuff". It's a lie...you don't save diddly squat, you shoot more and have a very interesting hobby .
I started in 1967 and still enjoy all of it...and I'm still buying new "stuff" that you "must have ".
Gary
MyFlatline
11-27-2017, 06:43 PM
Thanks! Trying to work through these issues one at a time. I didn’t realize my die wasn’t all the way seated on some of the cases, and now I have the magic of neck tension again. So instead of listing everything in the classifieds, I’m gonna give it another shot tomorrow. Hopefully, I’ll get a result that doesn’t look like someone threw a Chinese throwing star at my target and I can start working on load development in earnest.
Congrats JayT,, I knew you would get it straightened out..Now the fun begins.
blikseme300
11-27-2017, 07:53 PM
JayT, congrats also. You have learned a lot in your quest for cast success and this will stand you in good stead going forward.
mto7464
11-29-2017, 05:12 PM
For sure get some of smokes PC. HF red that i have sucks compared to his stuff. Lee really dropped the ball on this mold for guys that do not PC. Mine drop around 307 and PCing brings them up but the bottom band is alway larger then the front so sizing is a must. If not that bottom band expands the case as it goes in and the case neck is then over sized compared to the front of the bullet and there will be no neck tension.
For sure get some of smokes PC. HF red that i have sucks compared to his stuff. Lee really dropped the ball on this mold for guys that do not PC. Mine drop around 307 and PCing brings them up but the bottom band is alway larger then the front so sizing is a must. If not that bottom band expands the case as it goes in and the case neck is then over sized compared to the front of the bullet and there will be no neck tension.
Definitely gonna move away from the HF powder. I’m to the point now that I preheat the bullets to 150, drop them into my #5 container with powder and Airsoft BBS, shake the heck out of them, cook them, let them cool, then repeat for a second coat. I’m getting “decent” results, but not as nice as what I see from the quality powders cooked one time. Too many steps. I’m gonna try Smoke’s or Powder by the Pound next and hopefully get some better results.
After my two cooks, I run the bullets through a .309 sizer and then load them. I got lucky enough to drop .309 out of the mold and a consistent 230-232 grains, but then I beagled the mold to get .310-.3105 after coating, and then get a uniform .3095 after sizing. Neck tension was a big problem when I loaded them up as they cast initially.
bangerjim
11-29-2017, 07:03 PM
I wish my 1st attempt at casting and PC was as good!
Load 'em and shoot 'em!
Only to learn.......only way to find out what works for your gun.
That's what I did back "in the day".
Happy casting ..........loading........shooting.
Banger
slim1836
11-29-2017, 07:05 PM
Congrats, just remember to only change one item at a time while developing a load. It will help you down the road. That's the fun of this hobby, to turn a wheelweight into a boolit that puts food on the table or wins a match.
Did I mention you'll save money?
Slim
mto7464
11-29-2017, 07:21 PM
I skip the ASBB's now and get just as good results. Plus easier to dump out on the screen to bake.
I skip the ASBB's now and get just as good results. Plus easier to dump out on the screen to bake.
Those BBs are a pain. Hemostats are gonna give me carpal tunnel. If the better powder can allow me to lose the BBs, I’m all for it!
Congrats, just remember to only change one item at a time while developing a load. It will help you down the road. That's the fun of this hobby, to turn a wheelweight into a boolit that puts food on the table or wins a match.
Did I mention you'll save money?
Slim
I think I got the load dialed in- at least for my SBR. I used a known-good 220gr FMJ subsonic load and tweaked it a bit for the heavier bullet. Ran a few through the suppressor today- no leading and straight, subsonic bullet flight at 10 yards. I’m gonna try the round in my distance gun tomorrow at 100-200 yards in the backyard and see how it does. Probably gonna have a whole lot of drop at that range, but it’ll be fun to play with.
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