Duracoat

[richhodg66]

Anybody have experience with this stuff?

http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_durablue.html

Been thinking of giving this stuff a try. Just curious how easy or difficult it is to get good results.

[Greg S]

Great as an industrial coating which is made by Shirwin Williams. It is a urethane coating and a thin film build so it will wear on high spots and sharp edges. I prefer cerra coat. It is a ceramic/porcelain filled coating and wears little better. The best part of the coating is the phosphate/parkerizing base layer which adds protect and tooth for either oating to grab.

[Texas by God]

I used the aerosol can with the bottom plunger in matte black to paint a M38 Swede sporter, an 870 Exress, a NEF topper, a Sav 110, & a Ballester .45. They all are high use guns and I have no complaints. Some has worn off in high places but we're not chasing rust now. Win win.
The Ballester is my avatar.

[MyFlatline]

I have done 8 rifles and 4 hand guns, only the Taurus 1911 had issues with bonding. Dura Coat is great if you follow their recommendations of letting it cure for at least 30 days. The shelf life is an issue for stocking up tho. Have only done 1 Cera kote,,and have mediocre feelings on it.

JMHO, best of luck

[nicholst55]

I had a brief discussion with a professional Dura-Coat applicator a couple of years ago. I told of my spotty success with the product, and he told me how to cure all of my ills. Surface preparation is paramount, as it is with any paint (read as: disassemble, degrease, abrasive blast, degrease again, apply paint). Also, unless you thin (reduce) the product significantly more than what the manufacturer recommends, the coating will probably be too thick. This alone would make me reluctant to use the pre-packaged aerosol products that they offer. Lastly, you really need an automotive detail spray gun to properly apply this product. An airbrush will work for (very) small projects, but even a $30~ish Chinese detail gun is a far better choice.

[MyFlatline]

I had a brief discussion with a professional Dura-Coat applicator a couple of years ago. I told of my spotty success with the product, and he told me how to cure all of my ills. Surface preparation is paramount, as it is with any paint (read as: disassemble, degrease, abrasive blast, degrease again, apply paint). Also, unless you thin (reduce) the product significantly more than what the manufacturer recommends, the coating will probably be too thick. This alone would make me reluctant to use the pre-packaged aerosol products that they offer. Lastly, you really need an automotive detail spray gun to properly apply this product. An airbrush will work for (very) small projects, but even a $30~ish Chinese detail gun is a far better choice.

I do use a HVLP gun and prep as recommended but have never needed to thin the product. Just do even coats, as it will flash in minutes for the next coat.