Alternating Mold Issues

[Scott_In_OKC]

Yesterday, I was casting some 200 gr 45 SWC with an RCBS mold and 125 gr 358 RNFP with a Lee. Both are 2 cavity molds. What I found was the RCBS produced 100% with no rejects, however, the Lee sometimes threw wrinkled boolits. I know the alloy was good as the 45s were perfect and the Lee was not contaminated since it mostly threw perfect as well. Do you think the alternating technique allowed the Lee to occasionally cool too much? Should I up the lead temp (I was around 700)? Or ditch the alternating when using the Lee?

[ShooterAZ]

Yeah, the aluminum molds cool off much faster than the iron/steel ones. You could try going to 725 and see what happens, or alternate with all iron and all aluminum.

[Guesser]

I alternate when casting but I learned a long time ago to use mold of steel with steel/iron and aluminum with aluminum. and I try to used molds of similar sizes. SC with SC; etc.

[vzerone]

Yup different mold material cooling temperatures. Not that this is your problem, I'd run my pot a tad hotter like mention 720-725. More then likely you may have been to cast with that aluminum if it was the only you were using. Personally I've never liked the alternation method.

[Andy]

I haven't done any analytical testing of bullet quality when doing this, but when I've tried alternating in the past it seems like the only time it works well is with molds that have a long-ish cycle time and that also have similar cycle times to each other.

I have some aluminum molds that I just need to keep casting with almost as fast as possible or they won't stay hot enough, and some steel ones that I have to count to 15 seconds or more with the blocks open between pours to let them cool down enough between casts. Only with the latter type do I try to alternate casts with two different molds. It seems like to get good bullets you basically need to find two molds that cool about the same (similar size blocks, type of metal, and overall bullet weight in them). In other words if one mold needs 8 seconds between casts to cool and the other needs 15 it won't work out right.

[OS OK]

If you are going to alternate maybe you oughta consider setting the 'filled & cooling mould' on a hot plate...have seen it done with a fella running 4 moulds at once.

[runfiverun]

I gave up on two molds at once.
it's easier to just cast with one for two hours and the second for another two hours.
I can focus on what I am doing and keep a more consistent rate.

[lightman]

When I have alternated molds I found it easier to get good bullets if the molds were made from the same material and the bullets were of similar size. An example, my 38 SWC mold has to be run hot and as fast as you can while you have to go slow with my 45 colt mold.

[Scott_In_OKC]

I'll just chalk this one up as a learning experience. I still got a lot of good boolits and learned not to alternate molds of different types. Good stuff!

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[JBinMN]

If you are going to alternate maybe you oughta consider setting the 'filled & cooling mould' on a hot plate...have seen it done with a fella running 4 moulds at once.

Or, on top of the pot itself if ya can & want to...
:)
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I only have lee molds so I have not run into this issue with different rates for different type of metal. I alternate with up to 3 2 cav molds at a time for .45. two are 230 2r & 1 is a 230 TC. I have done .356 boolits 3 molds at a time before on occasion (2- 2 cav & 1 - 6 cav.), but they are of various weights. Other molds I have I have alternated are mostly 2 at a time though.

Here is a recent pic of the .45 cal in the 2 piles from 3 molds ( The pile on the left are WCs for the 38/357 that I had not put away yet) & the two on the right are TCs & 2Rs:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206074&d=1508285750

I don't do that all the time, but often enough. I just figure that about the time I fill one & set it down, I can fill another, then take the first & deal with the sprue & boolits, then repeat for the second ( or third). Once I get a rhythm it goes nicely for me I guess... I reckon it is one of those YMMV things...

G'Luck!
:)

[Calamity Jake]

Preheat both molds at the same time then as you cast, Speed up your casting pace. You have to cast faster to keep the aluminum mold hot enough.

[OS OK]

Or, on top of the pot itself if ya can & want to...
:)
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I only have lee molds so I have not run into this issue with different rates for different type of metal. I alternate with up to 3 2 cav molds at a time for .45. two are 230 2r & 1 is a 230 TC. I have done .356 boolits 3 molds at a time before on occasion (2- 2 cav & 1 - 6 cav.), but they are of various weights. Other molds I have I have alternated are mostly 2 at a time though.

Here is a recent pic of the .45 cal in the 2 piles from 3 molds ( The pile on the left are WCs for the 38/357 that I had not put away yet) & the two on the right are TCs & 2Rs:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206074&d=1508285750

I don't do that all the time, but often enough. I just figure that about the time I fill one & set it down, I can fill another, then take the first & deal with the sprue & boolits, then repeat for the second ( or third). Once I get a rhythm it goes nicely for me I guess... I reckon it is one of those YMMV things...

G'Luck!
:)

I personally never found the reason to run 2 at a time, at most I'll split a specific pot blend between two different calibers but most generally will cast 20 lbs. of one specific cast and then spend the next 2 or 3 days processing them into the finished PC'd and sized fodder.

I enjoy my casting but after 20 lbs. I'm ready to do something else...you know....'variety' is the spice of life!
I also like to leave the 20 lb. pot with less than 1/4" of Pb in there because the next pot will probably be a different blend all together.

Ussin' ole farts seem to 'putzin around' in the shop a little differently than most casters here in the forum...one reason is that we ain't watching the clock or trying to justify our time...time is about all we have left! Well, time and a big stash of Pb!. . . :bigsmyl2:

[Scott_In_OKC]

Ussin' ole farts seem to 'putzin around' in the shop a little differently than most casters here in the forum...one reason is that we ain't watching the clock or trying to justify our time...time is about all we have left! Well, time and a big stash of Pb!. . . :bigsmyl2:

I'm pushing 50, so I probably qualify as "ole fart" :D

[Strtspdlx]

I cast with an noe 402-180-rf mold and a mp 462 hammer which is about 330gn depending on pins, both are hollowpoint design, I find the noe mold can be poured and dropped twice before I need to drop and repour the mp mold, I also run the pot at 780 because anything less and the mp mold wont fill out. so I usually run two molds and try to find a method to make them both work reasonably. I heat them both up on a hot plate and have everything adjusted to run the worst of the two molds (most finicky). Then the other mold is worked into the process by just making it work. pour speed and length, heat cycle, pot temp, distance from pour spout to sprue plate are all adjusted to the mold that takes more effort to run. but all my molds are run differently. I can usually run atleast two now, I definitely couldn't when I first started as I could barely make one work. maybe ill try to do a video on this subject soon, Thanks for the idea.

[crackers]

Touching a wet rag while the sprue hardens can keep the pace up.

[nvbirdman]

How about trying Lee twice RCBS once, Lee twice RCBS once.

[fredj338]

I alternate when casting but I learned a long time ago to use mold of steel with steel/iron and aluminum with aluminum. and I try to used molds of similar sizes. SC with SC; etc.
Bingo!
I have had good results alternating 2cav iron & 6cav Lee though.

[country gent]

I also alternate moulds in a long session ( usually 3-5 hours) These are BPCR bullets so big heavy and long. 350-550 grns. all are 2 cavity brass moilds and they do well at what Id call a brisk pace. I ladle pour and over pour the blocks with a full ladle. My "resting mould sets on the shelf on the side of my ladle pot where I preheat the moulds also, just back a little farther. Between the over pour and shelf the sprue stays molten for 7-8 seconds making for very consistant bullets. Steel moulds do the same for me with my set up. I don't have any aluminum moulds right now to know there.
One thing that might help would be a small metal box with one end and top open to break breezes from cooling blocks to fast. This could be set on top of pot with a bottom pour pot. Or on a hot plate set on a low to medium setting to help maintain heat. If tall enough just the open end would be fine. Aluminum looses heat quickly and setting on a cool surface really draws it out. A hot plate with the shield between the pot and where you cut the sprues might work well here

[Leadmelter]

Scott in OKC
Are you a formerly from Detroit with the Red Wings? Nice new stadium.
I only cast one mold at a time and limit my sessions to a bout 2hrs because of my age, asthma and now a bum rt shoulder.
Leadmelter
MI

[Scott_In_OKC]

Scott in OKC
Are you a formerly from Detroit with the Red Wings? Nice new stadium.
I only cast one mold at a time and limit my sessions to a bout 2hrs because of my age, asthma and now a bum rt shoulder.
Leadmelter
MINot from Detroit, but the Red Wings are my team!

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[robg]

I use an rcbs mold and a Lee mold just run up the temp and HD no problem after a couple of casts ,even used 2 Lee and the rcbs mold all 2 cavity but I cast quite fast so no problem .I use 2 molds so I don't have to wait to drop boolits as I would with only one mold.