9mm / 38-357 bullet mold and profile questions from a casting noob

[nitroviking]

Hello all,

I'm hoping for some help choosing a bullet mold for casting 9mm and 38 - 357 from you more experienced guys out there.

From what I've read it looks like I may be able to get one mold that will serve double duty...

If I go with Lee 6 CAV 358-125 RF mold 207074 I may be able to use the bullets for both the 9mm and the 38-357,?

My big question is with seating depth in relation to the profile of the bullet from that particular mold and the location of the crimp groove and how it may affect the slight taper crimp (lee FCD) on the 9mm as the 9mm headspaces off the case mouth,

I'm not as worried about using them in the 38 since that gets the roll crimp and I'm assuming the crimp groove is in an appropriate location for that ?

Is that crimp groove going to give me issues when trying to seat to correct OAL and use a slight taper crimp for 9 mm instead of the roll crimp used on 38?

My reloading manual states 1.125 OAL for a 9mm 125gn lead bullet using 3.6 to 4.0 grains of Titegroup but until I cast some bullets and start to put them together, I don't know if that's going to allow the crimp groove to enter the case far enough to work....

( I have a lot of Titegroup so I'd really like to use that powder instead of letting it sit and have to buy a different powder)

Or is this not even an acceptable profile bullet with that crimp groove to use for 9mm with taper crimp?

If that bullet wont work for 9mm I think I could use the 6 CAV 356-120-TC ? 207075 but none of my 3 reloading manuals (Lee 2nd Ed., Hornady 9th Ed, Speer number 12) have any load data for 120gn lead, let alone with Titegroup...

Also, most people are saying they get bad accuracy with cast boolits in a 9mm at .356 and do much better at .357 or even . 358, and I'm not sure if the .356 mold will throw big enough slugs to shoot accurately at lower cast velocities?

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to supply as much info as possible and assure you guys that I've done some homework before I just jumped on here and yelled "Help" [smilie=b:, thanks in advance to anyone that can offer any advice, it will all be well received...

[Jal5]

I use the Lee 125 gr boolit for 9mm a lot and will be trying it for 38spl soon. It is great for the 9mm. you may need to experiment with diameter according to your gun's bore. I resize mine for .357 for the 9mm anything less and I get leading in the barrel, pita but it does clean up with elbow grease.

[Grmps]

nitroviking Welcome to CB and the addiction :)



Lee 6 CAVITY 356-125 2R is good for 9MM and light 38
Lee MOLD 6 CAV TL452-230-2R is easiest to load for 45 if you want heavier boolits
You'll find lots of free online load data here.

9mm has a tapered case peoples problems are from crimping too hard and shrinking the diameter of the boolit. I crimp just hard enough to hold the boolit in the case where it doesn't move when puched againt my reloading bench.
Pull the first couple boolits yo load to make sure your not sizing them down

9mm Luger 125 125 GR. LCN Hodgdon Titegroup 4.0 1096 1.000 Hodgdon Web - Pistol dat

HF is low quality pc save yourself some headaches and order some powder and BB's from Smoke4320 a vender sponser on this site. you can get a 3 color trail pack of powder that works great for Dt 1 LB Shipped is $18.90, get some BB's from him also.

[nitroviking]

Thanks for the reply Jal5,

Im not worried about the diameter so much, because like I said, Ill buy whatever sizer I need that works well for the 9mm, and Ive read exactly what you said about .357 being the sweet spot for most 9mm boolits, (I will slug the bbl before buying a sizer though) Are you running the same profile boolit from that Lee 358-125 RF with the crimp groove? if so does the groove give you any issues?

[nitroviking]

Thanks for the great info Grmps ,

I am very careful to not over crimp the 9mm, I only use the LEE FCD as a extra safeguard, its set to just kiss the case and make sure there is no bell left from the flaring / powder thru die, I mic the cartridge at the mouth before and after the FCD, I usually am about .378 before the crimp and .377 after, so just .001 touch up.

I did have an issue in the past with multiple brands of once fired 9mm brass not having enough neck tension after resizing and the bullets would push into the case to easy no matter how I adjusted the sizing die and or crimp die.

Even tried different dies and using less, more and no crimp... Had this problem on 9mm only, I did some research and found a lot of people having the same issue... wound up buying an undersized Lee "U" die for 9mm and all my problems disappeared !!

The consensus seemed to be that most of the newer 9mm brass is very thin walled and doesn't seem to hold the bullet to well... but I don't know, I mic'd the walls of various brands and is was a little on the thin side I guess, around .009 to .011...

I don't plan to start out using the U die for cast boolits, as they should be bigger (.357 to .358) compared to the FMJs I was buying (.355), and I know I have to be more careful with cast boolits so I don't shave them or swage them down.

And thanks for the tip on HF, I will definitely check out Smoke4320's stuff !!!

[nitroviking]

And you aint kidding about addiction Grmps !!! Heres an example of my spiral into handloading addiction....

"All I need is a single stage press, a die set, scale and a manual and Im all good"


Went from this 207077 To This 207078 in 2 years ! :holysheep LOL

[sawinredneck]

I use this mold for .38/357 and 9mm https://leeprecision.com/6-cavity-356-125-2r.html
It drops around .357 with my lead and after PC it’s .357-.359”. For 9mm I’ll size .356”, PC then size at .356” again. I’ve not found any of the 9mms I’ve loaded for (friends guns) that will chamber with .358” sized boolits.
For .38/.357 I don’t size, PC then size to .358” and load them.
I went with this particular mold because research showed it regularly dropped larger boolits than listed making it ideal for my needs. The mold you are looking at my do the same, I’m not sure.

[nitroviking]

Thanks sawinredneck, helpful info right there.... The 357 Ill be using is a Ruger GP100, Im assuming it will like about a .358, but we'll see,

Do you have any leading or accuracy issues with the boolits that wind up at .357 after PC in your .38/.357 or do you just separate those for use in the 9mm and use the ones that have come out at .358 - .359 then size to .358 for the .38 / .357?

[6bg6ga]

I don't use LEE. I have Magma and Ballisti-cast bullet molds for my Mark IV bullet caster. I cast 125gr rn and 160gr rn for use in both the 9mm and the 38/357's. I size my bullets to .357 for use in my 9mm and .358 for use in my 38/357's. thru my Star sizer.

[daloper]

Welcome to the madness. I will second Grmps on the pc. Save yourself the trouble and start out with Smoke's powder. If you are going to use one mold for both you can pc in two different colors and size one color at the .356 for your 9mm and the other color at the .358 for your .38 loads. Of course it won't be long before you fall completely down this rabbit hole and and end up with many different molds.

[6bg6ga]

Welcome to the madness. I will second Grmps on the pc. Save yourself the trouble and start out with Smoke's powder. If you are going to use one mold for both you can pc in two different colors and size one color at the .356 for your 9mm and the other color at the .358 for your .38 loads. Of course it won't be long before you fall completely down this rabbit hole and and end up with many different molds.


I would highly recommend a .357 for 9mm. Most 9mm's i've owned needed .357 in order to end leading. Using .356 in most will have you leading your barrel and cussing up a storm. Actually a person could probably simply size everything to .358 and be done with it. That extra two thousanths isn't going to hurt a thing. Proper fit is key to not leading a 9mm and also lower the bullet velocity. Proper fit and speed will result in shooting without leading.

[sawinredneck]

Thanks sawinredneck, helpful info right there.... The 357 Ill be using is a Ruger GP100, Im assuming it will like about a .358, but we'll see,

Do you have any leading or accuracy issues with the boolits that wind up at .357 after PC in your .38/.357 or do you just separate those for use in the 9mm and use the ones that have come out at .358 - .359 then size to .358 for the .38 / .357?
I honestly haven’t shot enough to say either way, I don’t get to shoot as often as I’d like so I’m still in load development right now.

[nitroviking]

Thanks for all the advice so far everyone !!


I would highly recommend a .357 for 9mm. Most 9mm's i've owned needed .357 in order to end leading. Using .356 in most will have you leading your barrel and cussing up a storm. Actually a person could probably simply size everything to .358 and be done with it. That extra two thousanths isn't going to hurt a thing. Proper fit is key to not leading a 9mm and also lower the bullet velocity. Proper fit and speed will result in shooting without leading.

Im not to worried about sizing, almost everyone I've seen casting for 9mm is agreeing on .357 being the sweet spot usually, and like I said I have no problem buying a couple sizers if need be, they are pretty cheap, I'm more concerned if that crimp groove on the .358-125-RF is going to cause an issue when seating to correct OAL and using a slight taper crimp on the 9mm as opposed to the roll crimp on a .38 - .357 it was designed for? I'm hoping to use a .358 mold and then PC (Im assuming about .359-.360 after PC?) and size back down to .358 for .38-.357 and be able to size down to .357 after PC for the 9mm

Im concerned a .356-125 mold might only give me .357 after PC and I may not be able to hit .358 for use in the .38-.357, also if I get a .356 mold for 9mm, I dont know if it will have a crimp groove at all, so would it even be able to be roll crimped for the .38-.357 ?

[jcren]

Don't have a 9, but use several 45 colt bullets in my acp and the crimp groove is never an issue. Must of the time I seat just past the groove, one profile I just taper crimp in the groove just enough to catch and prevent set back. Either way works.

[6bg6ga]

Thanks for all the advice so far everyone !!



Im not to worried about sizing, almost everyone I've seen casting for 9mm is agreeing on .357 being the sweet spot usually, and like I said I have no problem buying a couple sizers if need be, they are pretty cheap, I'm more concerned if that crimp groove on the .358-125-RF is going to cause an issue when seating to correct OAL and using a slight taper crimp on the 9mm as opposed to the roll crimp on a .38 - .357 it was designed for? I'm hoping to use a .358 mold and then PC (Im assuming about .359-.360 after PC?) and size back down to .358 for .38-.357 and be able to size down to .357 after PC for the 9mm

Im concerned a .356-125 mold might only give me .357 after PC and I may not be able to hit .358 for use in the .38-.357, also if I get a .356 mold for 9mm, I dont know if it will have a crimp groove at all, so would it even be able to be roll crimped for the .38-.357 ?

I would not be purchasing a .356 mold for 9mm but rather a 38/357 mold tht will give you .358 that can be sized for .358 for the 38/357 or sized to .357 for 9mm. Crimping.... not a problem. A slight taper crimp just enough to insure the bullet won't move for the 9mm and the same taper crimp for 38/357. You can probably cheat and just use the 9mm taper crimp die to also crimp the 38.357 jut back it off a little.

[6bg6ga]

just to let you know I may make a batch of say 5K of each bullet and then simply put in my .357 die and size a bunch and put them in a coffee can marked 9mm and then change the die and take some of the 5K batch and size them to .358 for the 38/357 and throw them in coffee cans marked 38/357.

[asmith80]

I've done what your trying to do and it's not as hard as you may think. If you're PC'ing, you may be able to get a little extra fat on those boolits to bump them up to .357 if they drop less than that. You could always do 2 coats of PC if you really need to.

I tried using the Lee molds to get one bullet for two calibers, and while I was able to get it to work, I realized it was way easier to just get a mold from NOE or Accurate in a design that worked for both calibers in a size that dropped from the mold with the biggest diameter I needed. Saved me a ton of hassle.

Rather than start with the 6 cav. mold, why not try a 2 cavity in one of the designs you're looking at? THat way you could test it out and see how hard it would be to get to work, and then decide if you wanted to stick with the Lee molds or get something else

[Ed_Shot]

I find the Lee 356-125-2R is outstanding in 9MM, 38 Spl and .357 Mag. I recently got the Arsenal Molds clone (358-125-2R) just to have a really quality mold. It's a tad heavier than the Lee and drops at .360. I get best accuracy, IMHO, using the the older Lyman 358242 (120 gr) mine drops at .362 and does have some deformation when sized .358 but it is a tack driver. The NOE 359242 (120 gr) which drops at .360 is no less accurate. I only lube the bottom grove on the 358242 for 9MM/38/357 and use the top lube grove as a crimp grove in 38/357. I load for a Blackhawk, Security Six and a GP100, the 358242 over Red Dot/Promo 4.2 gr in a 38 Spl case is a one-hole wonder.

My 2 cents: size your 9MM to .358.

[sawinredneck]

Thanks for all the advice so far everyone !!



Im not to worried about sizing, almost everyone I've seen casting for 9mm is agreeing on .357 being the sweet spot usually, and like I said I have no problem buying a couple sizers if need be, they are pretty cheap, I'm more concerned if that crimp groove on the .358-125-RF is going to cause an issue when seating to correct OAL and using a slight taper crimp on the 9mm as opposed to the roll crimp on a .38 - .357 it was designed for? I'm hoping to use a .358 mold and then PC (Im assuming about .359-.360 after PC?) and size back down to .358 for .38-.357 and be able to size down to .357 after PC for the 9mm

Im concerned a .356-125 mold might only give me .357 after PC and I may not be able to hit .358 for use in the .38-.357, also if I get a .356 mold for 9mm, I dont know if it will have a crimp groove at all, so would it even be able to be roll crimped for the .38-.357 ?

A couple of things, on the slight chance they don’t get large enough all you need to do is put on another coat of powder to make them larger.
I’ll also suggest sizing the 9mm boolits to your finish size before and after PC’ing them. I’ve found trying to size too much at one time is a very hard endeavor!
You are worrying too much about the crimp groove! It will only really matter on the 9mm loads as they are very pressure sensitive. In the .38/.357 loads this boolit is so short you’d have to all but stuff the shell full of powder to create a pressure problem. Also, since you are only going for low power loads I don’t foresee a problem with recoil setback like you could have with full house loads.

[nitroviking]

I would not be purchasing a .356 mold for 9mm but rather a 38/357 mold tht will give you .358 that can be sized for .358 for the 38/357 or sized to .357 for 9mm. Crimping.... not a problem. A slight taper crimp just enough to insure the bullet won't move for the 9mm and the same taper crimp for 38/357. You can probably cheat and just use the 9mm taper crimp die to also crimp the 38.357 jut back it off a little.

6bg6ga, Sounds good, that's what I was hoping, I think I'll give the 6 cavity 358-125-RF a try then, you said your using "160gr rn for use in both the 9mm and the 38/357's" too? Where do you find load data for a cast 160gn bullet in a 9mm !? Ive looked in 4 reloading manuals and Hodgdons website and dont see anything over 147 gn listed.... except LEEs 2nd edition manual has a mere 4 listings all using Vihtavuori for a 150gn but its a jacketed bullet.

[nitroviking]

A couple of things, on the slight chance they don’t get large enough all you need to do is put on another coat of powder to make them larger.
I’ll also suggest sizing the 9mm boolits to your finish size before and after PC’ing them. I’ve found trying to size too much at one time is a very hard endeavor!
You are worrying too much about the crimp groove! It will only really matter on the 9mm loads as they are very pressure sensitive. In the .38/.357 loads this boolit is so short you’d have to all but stuff the shell full of powder to create a pressure problem. Also, since you are only going for low power loads I don’t foresee a problem with recoil setback like you could have with full house loads.

I'm only worried about the crimp groove when using them in 9mm, I don't forsee any issues with it in a .38 / .357 case since its a bullet mold designed for a .38 / .357, just wasn't sure if it was going to be usable in the 9mm at all, since its technically designed for a revolver with a roll crimp or if I was going to have to cast from a different mold all together for the 9mm.

[nitroviking]

sawinredneck, how much are you able to size at once before it starts getting tough?

[nitroviking]

I've done what your trying to do and it's not as hard as you may think. If you're PC'ing, you may be able to get a little extra fat on those boolits to bump them up to .357 if they drop less than that. You could always do 2 coats of PC if you really need to.

I tried using the Lee molds to get one bullet for two calibers, and while I was able to get it to work, I realized it was way easier to just get a mold from NOE or Accurate in a design that worked for both calibers in a size that dropped from the mold with the biggest diameter I needed. Saved me a ton of hassle.

Rather than start with the 6 cav. mold, why not try a 2 cavity in one of the designs you're looking at? THat way you could test it out and see how hard it would be to get to work, and then decide if you wanted to stick with the Lee molds or get something else

It was $23 more for the 6 cavity ($53) than the 2 cavity, so I figured Id rather gamble the extra $23, than buy a 2 cavity for $27 and then spend another $53 for the 6 if it worked ($80 total that way) at least that was my logic...? and it looks like those other molds are quite a bit pricier than the Lees.. I'm really trying to get one mold relatively cheap that will work for both, but if its gonna cost around a $100 or more, I may as well just buy 2 Lee 6 cavities for $103 total then I could just pick the best profile bullet for each caliber...?

[nitroviking]

I assume you can only size down not up? How would it be possible to size up using a sizer not just with extra PC? I understand the theory of sizing down from say .358 to .357 by running through a sizer, but I don't see how would it be able to increase the diameter?

[sawinredneck]

Also, forgive me for being a total casting noob, but I assumed you could only size down not up? Is it possible to size up using a sizer not just with extra PC? I understand the theory of sizing down from say .358 to .357 by running through a sizer, but how would it be able to increase the diameter?
You can’t, other than smashing them then trying to resize them, but I can’t see how you could maintain any consistency doing that.
I’ve found with PC anything over .002” and it gets tough pretty quickly.

[Mytmousemalibu]

This is another good one, useful for 9mm, .38/.357. Very nice quality molds, on-par with NOE but a little cheaper, 1st rate customer service also. They also make this mold in a groovless PC only design. Of course anything from NOE, Accurate, or MP Molds. I have this same mold and it makes a superb boolit!

http://arsenalmolds.com/products?product_id=73

[Jal5]

I only do a slight crimp on that 125 RF JUST ENOUGH TO TAKE THE BELL OUT. not a problem. You should do a plunk test using your barrel on a finished round if boolit is bigger than 357. I had some problems with bigger ones not going into battery on my S&W shield 9mm

[nitroviking]

Thanks to everyone for your help :drinks:, Those Arsenal molds do look pretty nice, Now its time to slug the barrels:groner:

[Cherokee]

You have received lots of good comments. I'll tell you what I do. I use the Lee 125 RFN in my 38/357 Mag loads sized .358 but I use 231. Accurate and cast large enough for .358 sizing. For 9mm I use the Lee 120 TC bullet but I use HS6 and WST. It is accurate in my guns and cast large enough to size .357. The Lee 6C mold's will rain bullets, easy to cast with. My 120 TC mold has produced about 40K bullets so far and is going great, I expect lots more from it. Regarding the 9mm, make sure the case is not resizing the base of the bullet with its tapered case. I use a Lyman 38AP expander in an M-die that goes deeper into the case and avoids resizing the bullet base. YMMV

[popper]

The Lee melter will do fine. I use a 130 gr with the nose like your first choice, no crimp groove, no feed problems ever. You do need the proper expander. I had a 6x Lee rifle mould, didn't really like it. I use a 4x from accurate now, still drains the pot fast. I use coating and accuracy is great.

[6bg6ga]

Second the plunk test

[762X51]

I'm headed to the range today to try the 358-125-RF in a couple different 9mm handguns. I use this bullet sized to .358 in .38 Special and the dummy I loaded in 9mm at that size dropped right in the chamber of the guns I intend to shoot it from.

[Jal5]

Let us know how it shoots. I am interested in the 38 spl use- need to do a mild load for my wife’s new taurus M 85 snubby and I have plenty of those available

[myg30]

Nitro, welcome to the forum. Lots of good folks here and good info.
Don't grown over slugging. Take one of your boolits you already have and see if it passes thru the cylinder of your revolver with any effort. Push with a wooden dowel, pencil,anything not to scratch metal. If no resistance than you powder coat to larger diameter and try again till you have a little resistance, not To Tight, snug. Measure that and you have cyl dia. Do all 6 and see if same. Then take another one same dia and push it down the oiled bbl and see what dia. you have there.
You also can "Beegle" your mold to cast a larger dia if nessary. Or pc to larger dia.

Good luck, sounds like your on the correct path. Be safe always.

Mike

[vzerone]

I think one of the best bullets for the 9mm and all it's clones (Largo, 38 Super, etc) is Mihec's 129 grain. The mold to get is the four cavity hollow point. It comes with 3 sets of pins, one set is for a regular hollow point, the next set is for the pent hollow point, and the third set is blank for casting solids. The bullet drops around .359 so you can use it in a variety of guns including 38 Special and 357 Magnum. I wouldn't worry about having a crimp groove for revolver use. You can just taper crimp it. Mihec has a sale going on at the moment too. You can find this bullet down in the group buys. Former member here 45 2.1 designed it. Here's my cousin's pic of it.

207141

[nitroviking]

The Lee melter will do fine. I use a 130 gr with the nose like your first choice, no crimp groove, no feed problems ever. You do need the proper expander. I had a 6x Lee rifle mould, didn't really like it. I use a 4x from accurate now, still drains the pot fast. I use coating and accuracy is great.

Im using a Lee turret press with the Auto Drum powder measure and Powder thru expanding die.

Originally when loading standard brass and jacketed bullets, no matter how much I tried to adjust the expander and powder measure, (making sure the powder throw wasn't bottoming out etc.) The return spring pressure alone from the case activated Auto Drum was causing way to much bell.

The return spring in that Auto Drum is way stiffer than it needs to be... Its like a valve spring from a V8! I wound up removing the sizing plug, chucked it up in the drill press and turned down the O.D a little bit to fine tune it, then it worked like a charm.

I eventually took the Auto drum apart, and ground down the O.D on that spring to make it more reasonable tension. Much smoother and easier now and still works great.

When I turned down the expander plug, I ordered a factory replacement to have on hand, I'll try starting with that one for cast boolits and see where it gets me, I think it will flare enough, if not, I can always try the one from my 357 die set and mix and match.

[nitroviking]

Nitro, welcome to the forum. Lots of good folks here and good info.
Don't grown over slugging. Take one of your boolits you already have and see if it passes thru the cylinder of your revolver with any effort. Push with a wooden dowel, pencil,anything not to scratch metal. If no resistance than you powder coat to larger diameter and try again till you have a little resistance, not To Tight, snug. Measure that and you have cyl dia. Do all 6 and see if same. Then take another one same dia and push it down the oiled bbl and see what dia. you have there.
You also can "Beegle" your mold to cast a larger dia if nessary. Or pc to larger dia.

Good luck, sounds like your on the correct path. Be safe always.

Mike

Thanks myg30,
I don't have any cast boolits to try pushing thru yet, the furnace and molds are going to be Christmas gifts hopefully, so I wont be casting till after then.

I was gonna just try to find some soft lead balls around .36 cal online and use those to slug ? If I can slug 'em before Xmas, I should have a good idea if the 9mm and the .357 will be close enough to use the same sizer or not and then I can add the sizer to my Xmas list too [smilie=p:

[nitroviking]

I think one of the best bullets for the 9mm and all it's clones (Largo, 38 Super, etc) is Mihec's 129 grain. The mold to get is the four cavity hollow point. It comes with 3 sets of pins, one set is for a regular hollow point, the next set is for the pent hollow point, and the third set is blank for casting solids. The bullet drops around .359 so you can use it in a variety of guns including 38 Special and 357 Magnum. I wouldn't worry about having a crimp groove for revolver use. You can just taper crimp it. Mihec has a sale going on at the moment too. You can find this bullet down in the group buys. Former member here 45 2.1 designed it. Here's my cousin's pic of it.

207141

Those are some nice looking boolits, and Ive read alot of good things on here about Mihec, but the casting stuff is going on the my Xmas list for the family, and dont think the wife would pull off signing up on CB and getting the right molds...lol Ill be lucky if I get the right one even by emailing her a direct link to LEE's website with a part #[smilie=b:

[nitroviking]

You have received lots of good comments. I'll tell you what I do. I use the Lee 125 RFN in my 38/357 Mag loads sized .358 but I use 231. Accurate and cast large enough for .358 sizing. For 9mm I use the Lee 120 TC bullet but I use HS6 and WST. It is accurate in my guns and cast large enough to size .357. The Lee 6C mold's will rain bullets, easy to cast with. My 120 TC mold has produced about 40K bullets so far and is going great, I expect lots more from it. Regarding the 9mm, make sure the case is not resizing the base of the bullet with its tapered case. I use a Lyman 38AP expander in an M-die that goes deeper into the case and avoids resizing the bullet base. YMMV

Yea, I'm leaning toward that 358-125-RF for the .38 - .357 and I can see how well it works for the 9mm, If it doesnt work out well for both, I can just put a mold for the 9mm on the wish list, luckily my birthdays not to long after Xmas [smilie=p:

[762X51]

All went well. Sized at .358 it works just fine in .38 Special in my GP100s with 3.8 grains of HP38, as a matter of fact that combination is probably the most accurate load I've ever used in my revolvers. As for the 9mm (also sized at .358) it functioned flawlessly in two different SIGs, a P250 and a P320, with 3.5 grains of HP38. It did shoot a good bit lower and left of point of aim. When using this projectile just seat the bullet just barely past the crimp groove and then taper crimp. I may play with the powder charge to see if I can get the point of impact closer to the point of aim but overall I'm happy to find one projectile that performs well in both .38 and 9mm.



I'm headed to the range today to try the 358-125-RF in a couple different 9mm handguns. I use this bullet sized to .358 in .38 Special and the dummy I loaded in 9mm at that size dropped right in the chamber of the guns I intend to shoot it from.

[Scott_In_OKC]

All went well. Sized at .358 it works just fine in .38 Special in my GP100s with 3.8 grains of HP38, as a matter of fact that combination is probably the most accurate load I've ever used in my revolvers. As for the 9mm (also sized at .358) it functioned flawlessly in two different SIGs, a P250 and a P320, with 3.5 grains of HP38. It did shoot a good bit lower and left of point of aim. When using this projectile just seat the bullet just barely past the crimp groove and then taper crimp. I may play with the powder charge to see if I can get the point of impact closer to the point of aim but overall I'm happy to find one projectile that performs well in both .38 and 9mm.

Thanks for the info, that mold is coming from Amazon today and I wanted to give it a go in both 357 plinkers and 9mm.

[nitroviking]

All went well. Sized at .358 it works just fine in .38 Special in my GP100s with 3.8 grains of HP38, as a matter of fact that combination is probably the most accurate load I've ever used in my revolvers. As for the 9mm (also sized at .358) it functioned flawlessly in two different SIGs, a P250 and a P320, with 3.5 grains of HP38. It did shoot a good bit lower and left of point of aim. When using this projectile just seat the bullet just barely past the crimp groove and then taper crimp. I may play with the powder charge to see if I can get the point of impact closer to the point of aim but overall I'm happy to find one projectile that performs well in both .38 and 9mm.

Good info, thanks for the report, that combo sounds pretty promising