Chimney questio

[Iowa Fox]

I have a chimney question I need to throw out for the experts here because I'm stumped.

In 1981 I put our chimney in the house. Its a Stainless double wall insulated 8". When we built the house we were in the middle of ag fields, no trees. I used the formulas for height over roof line and things worked fine all those years. Now the trees are 30 feet higher than the house, you guessed it, constant down draft from the low pressure they create in relation to the top of the roof line. I need to add on a two foot section which I know would help. All the old stove shops in this part of the state are gone. What Menards, Home Depot, Lowes are selling has a different pitch of threads for the sections to screw together. I tried, they are not even close. I know I purchased all the chimney parts at Menard's and if my feeble old memory is half way close it was JAX Brand. Probably Canadian. Any older chimney experts here that can get me pointed in the right direction. Its hopeless here as the younger retail folks aren't into wood burning and don't have a clue when I ask them. Thanks in Advance everyone.

[William Yanda]

I am no chimney expert, but I googled Jax, 8 in SS double wall, and google asked if I meant JAZZ brand, available from woodland direct. Good luck. A 2 foot extension of single wall might be enough to help at the exit end.

[shaune509]

Worked for 25+ years in wood heat. You should never use single wall extension on top of chimney as it will cause many other problems later [ie chimney fires]. You are best to match the chimney brand and after 35 years you may not find it as there has been allot of turn over in the industry, common US brands from the '80s for insulated was Metalbestos still around, the brand you think you remember I have not heard of but there were many lower cost and imported stuff in the heyday of wood in the '70s thru the early '90s. The old rule of height was 2' higher than any thing within 10' or 3' over the ridge, down drafts from the surrounding area may need more than the 2' your thinking. Hope this helps and good luck in finding your parts.
Shaune509

[jonp]

single wall on the top with a cap or t would work I think. It's a wood stove not for a propane non forced, right?

[MaryB]

Non-insulated on top means cooling creosote and buildup there...

[MT Gianni]

Worked for 25+ years in wood heat. You should never use single wall extension on top of chimney as it will cause many other problems later [ie chimney fires]. You are best to match the chimney brand and after 35 years you may not find it as there has been allot of turn over in the industry, common US brands from the '80s for insulated was Metalbestos still around, the brand you think you remember I have not heard of but there were many lower cost and imported stuff in the heyday of wood in the '70s thru the early '90s. The old rule of height was 2' higher than any thing within 10' or 3' over the ridge, down drafts from the surrounding area may need more than the 2' your thinking. Hope this helps and good luck in finding your parts.
Shaune509

Reread this post and take it as gospel.

[skeettx]

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/8-inch-DuraTech-Stainless-Steel-Chimney-Pipe-9-inch-length?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgOXtw-S81gIVA7XACh2mNgfsEAYYASABEgJrf_D_BwE

[Iowa Fox]

Reread this post and take it as gospel.

Yes I know its the gospel. That's why I'm so cautious about this thing. Unless I can find an section of pipe that will couple with my existing I'm just about down to 2 choices, quit burning wood or replace the entire chimney from the basement up.

I just wish I could find or the manufactures would list the dimensions for the offset and locking teeth of their pipe.

[Iowa Fox]

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/8-inch-DuraTech-Stainless-Steel-Chimney-Pipe-9-inch-length?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgOXtw-S81gIVA7XACh2mNgfsEAYYASABEgJrf_D_BwE

Thanks skeettx. I'll shoot them an email question to the best of my ability with measurements. Hoping maybe someone else on here faced the same challenge and has some answers.

[blackthorn]

Yes I know its the gospel. That's why I'm so cautious about this thing. Unless I can find an section of pipe that will couple with my existing I'm just about down to 2 choices, quit burning wood or replace the entire chimney from the basement up.

I just wish I could find or the manufactures would list the dimensions for the offset and locking teeth of their pipe.

Or top the trees.

[rancher1913]

you can mate two different types of pipe as long as the inside diameter and outside diameter are the same, just need some sheet metal and screws. a wind deflector that moves with the direction of the wind would work but would need regular maintenance. a draft inducer fan would also work.

[MT Gianni]

you can mate two different types of pipe as long as the inside diameter and outside diameter are the same, just need some sheet metal and screws. a wind deflector that moves with the direction of the wind would work but would need regular maintenance. a draft inducer fan would also work.

If you decide to do that make sure your screws are no longer than 1/4" and use plenty. Make sure also that all seams are outside the house.

[Iowa Fox]

Worked for 25+ years in wood heat. You should never use single wall extension on top of chimney as it will cause many other problems later [ie chimney fires]. You are best to match the chimney brand and after 35 years you may not find it as there has been allot of turn over in the industry, common US brands from the '80s for insulated was Metalbestos still around, the brand you think you remember I have not heard of but there were many lower cost and imported stuff in the heyday of wood in the '70s thru the early '90s. The old rule of height was 2' higher than any thing within 10' or 3' over the ridge, down drafts from the surrounding area may need more than the 2' your thinking. Hope this helps and good luck in finding your parts.
Shaune509

Shaune,

Since we built this house with our own 4 hands we have every shred of paper and receipt. Today my wife found the info. I was way off on the brand name.

It was Pro Jet SSG from Ontario Canada

Googling I'm still going in circles, probably they are like everyone, purchased and gobbled up. Did you ever hear of Pro Jet? The brochure we used shows Part # SL2 for a 8" 2' section or SL3 for a 3' section. I know that just uncovering this info doesn't get me any closer to finding a chunk of pipe that will fit. Thanks

[rancher1913]

maybe a close cousin

http://securitychimneys.com/oliver-macleod-projet-nova-temp-ht6103/

[Edward]

Have you run a camera thru your chimney ,it might be clogged ? I am tomorrow hammering thru a plugged 8" flu with 1 inch black pipe and if it works my chimney guy has a mechanical device if we can bust thru and make a hole ,it"s that third stage of creosote (HARD) .If it works I will install a 6" smooth wall S.S. liner and then insulation and burn a lot more wood an clean more often . The camera showed the problem ,trees might not be the issue if there is sufficient setback it could be creosote /Good luck Ed

[Iowa Fox]

I'll keep searching but it's looking like I'm up a creek. shaune was right, there have been so many design changes that joint thread is long discontinued by the manufacturer from the e mail reply's I'm getting. I'm going to look at the salvage places in the area just to see if I might get lucky on a home they tore down that had a wood burning chimney.

Ed it's a good thought on the cleaning but mine is clean for sure. I brush it at least twice a season.

[MT Gianni]

At one time Metalbestos sold a 6" long clamp type extension that went over a insulated double wall pipe and converted it to their threads. I went to work for a gas company in 1980 and I don't remember the exact name. It is probably easier to trim trees.

[jonp]

Non-insulated on top means cooling creosote and buildup there...

That's why you clean it and I mean clean it a few times a year. Had this for years in Northern New England without a problem and burning wood October-March or April

[shaune509]

Iowa fox, I do not recall the name of the one Canadian brand that was being sold on the west cost in the '80s. Hope you have luck fixing your chimney with out the expense of full replacement.
JonP, first under proper install, dry fuel, and operation you should not need to clean the chimney if any more than once a year, second who in there sane mind wants to get up on a roof in snowy weather to clean a chimney. Short of using a man lift I would not do it for safety of myself, never mind the chimney.
Just IMHO don't take any of this personally.
Shaune509

[Steelshooter]

If you can remove a piece, take to a HVAC sheet metal place to see if they can make you an adapter or complete pipe. It will probably be a little expensive but cheaper than replacing the whole thing.

[Iowa Fox]

I've really hit a brick wall on this one. Unless I can find a new old stock pushed in a corner some place( very unlikely) or a house getting torn down, or one at one of the salvage places, I'm SOL. The joints are to complicated to reproduce as a one of. It's to dangerous to risk trying to cobble a joint.

[Steelshooter]

Nobody said anything about cobbling something together. This is not rocket science stuff, its a pipe inside of another pipe. Any good hvac shop will have the equipment to make a good safe joint.

[skeettx]

Page 173 :)
https://www.duravent.com/docs/product/directventpro_L820_2012-sep_w.pdf

46DVA-KCB FITS
Masonry Chimney
Conversion Kit
7” & 8” PRO JET

http://www.duravent.com/OperationHours.aspx

[gwpercle]

Or top the trees.

In a storm ....trees are not your friends. August 26 , 2008 Hurricane Gustav and four tall pine trees proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that houses and garages attract falling trees .
Our street was named Hundred Oaks , after Gustav, it was renamed Seven Oaks .

Take the trees down , two problems solved, no tree to fall on house or block chimney !
Gary

[Iowa Fox]

The trees are not close to being over the house but they are enough to change the pressure over the house in relation to the ridge

[jonp]

The trees are not close to being over the house but they are enough to change the pressure over the house in relation to the ridge

Trees can change the windflow if they are within 25=30 times the distance of their maximum mature height. For example, a 30ft pine tree can change the windflow as a windbreak up to 900ft away and this can cause drawing problems but not always. Best windbreaks are evergreens planted no more than 5x the max mature height of the tree away from the structure. Trees behind the house can have as great or more an effect on chimney draw as those in front of it (upwind and downwind) by creating a backflow dead air space where the wind "stacks up".

[Iowa Fox]

jonp you hit the nail on the head in regard to trees and air pressure.

[PaulG67]

I had the same problem for years, I finally solved it by putting a draft inducer on top to the chimney. It works great. It now has a positive continuous draft, it is easier to control the burn, I can now have a smaller fire burning for a longer period of time than I ever could before. It was not cheap, about $500 but worth every dime. I burn coal in the stove hooked to that chimney.

[MaryB]

Burning pellets I have a draft inducer(only way they burn) and yes it does make the fire easier to control. But you can still have draft issues. I get some backdraft at times with NE winds because it creates a high pressure swirl where the vent exits the wall.

[Iowa Fox]

Paul, tell me more about your draft inducer. I have heard about them but never have I seen one. Do you have a web link by any chance? Thanks.

Well if there is any upside to all of this I hope watching the winds and low pressures here at home help me at the 1000 yard matches. I need to get all of my mole windmills out next spring just to watch them to help with my shooting.