Dumb Noob Questions

[brewer12345]

I've loaded enough revolver cartridges to feel like I have a good handle on it and I find that I am using a lot of commercial cast in my favorite loads, so I have decided to put together a basic casting setup together without spending a while lot of money. I will be getting my hands on a lee bottom pour pot, lee molds, a lee sizing die and plan to tumble lube. Since I shoot 38 special the most, I will start with a 158 grain RNFP mold and a 148 grain wadcutter mold. To keep things simple up front, I will be buying wheel weight ingots off ebay and will figure out sourcing and smelting lead later. I figure if I cast some bullets at 3 cents a piece instead of buying them for 8 cents a pop I am doing well enough for now. If this all goes well, I will get my hands on a 44 mag and possible a 35 Rem mold as well.

I have done a bunch of searching, but I still have a few stupid newbie questions:

- Should I start with a 2 cavity or 6 cavity mold? The goal is regular practice and plinking fodder so volume is a goal, but I do not want to bite off more than I can chew.

- Should I expect to get usable bullets out of my first casting session?

- Can I cast with straight wheel weight material, or do I have to add something (tin) to the pot?

- I am a beekeeper and I think it would be neat to use some beeswax in my lube. Can I use the 50/50 beeswax/LLA mixture for tumble lubing, or is it too think/solid for that?

Anything else I should be aware of? Suggestions very much appreciated as I plan to assemble everything and do my first cast in the next month. I want to cast outside and it is probably better to do that while the weather is still good.

[OS OK]

If you get a 6 cav. Lee .358-158-RNFP you will be able to cast all the 'fodder' you can use and with that mould your keepers oughta start about the third fill if you have paid attention to pre cleaning and deburring, then watch temps in the pot and preheat your mould.

Straight COWW's will do fine.

Can't comment on the Beeswax since I exclusively PC.

Once you have gotten into the casting mode and made 20# of boolits you'll forget all about investment $ and will be hooked for life.

c h a r l i e

[runfiverun]

tumble lubing with a solid lube is possible but I wouldn't try it.
it gets gloppy has to be held at a consistent temperature for it to go on very well.
you could just get the mold with a lube groove and use your wax to make lube.
then pan lube and push through a sizer on your reloading press.

I know 'LEE says' but there is a reason why their 2cav. molds cost 20 dollars and everyone else's cost 80$
they are useable for sure but they ain't perfect and the sizing makes sure they are 'good nuff'

[rancher1913]

ain't nothing cheap about casting your own, its a large rabbit hole you done fell down :mrgreen:

[Tom W.]

But it's rewarding when a friend looks at a few loaded rounds and asks " Did you cast those ?"
The UPS driver for our route is a gun person and friend. Today I
Showed him some loaded rounds and he asked just that. So did the security guard at the hospital. He couldn't believe that the boolits came out so smooth and wrinkle free. I told him that it's my hobby and I get anal when it comes to cosmetics. I haven't been hunting since 2012, I just shoot paper. But I want my rounds to look better than any factory loads. And they can, even with Lee molds.

[Biggin]

I don't remember who said it, first to me it's an addiction. You will spend a lot of dough to make cheaper boolits and love every minute of it!!!!! I dream of lead in my sleep!

[brewer12345]

I don't remember who said it, first to me it's an addiction. You will spend a lot of dough to make cheaper boolits and love every minute of it!!!!! I dream of lead in my sleep!

Yeah, I have been a homebrewer for 25 years, so I understand. That said, at some point you have the stuff you really want and have paid for it several times over in cost savings vs. store bought and it all becomes gravy.

[MT Chambers]

Budget permitting you may want to purchase some better quality equipment esp. some good molds like NOE, RCBS, Accurate, Saeco, etc. and a decent melting pot like the RCBS.....the Lee "Drip-o-matic" pot and some spotty quality molds may turn you off casting.

[brewer12345]

Budget permitting you may want to purchase some better quality equipment esp. some good molds like NOE, RCBS, Accurate, Saeco, etc. and a decent melting pot like the RCBS.....the Lee "Drip-o-matic" pot and some spotty quality molds may turn you off casting.

Maybe a dumb question, but are the Lee molds usable or not? I load shotshells with a Lee Load-All which is very much maligned by people who have spent a lot more on the equipment. There was a bit of a learning curve with it, but it works just fine. Similar deal with the molds?

[tazman]

For starting out, I would get the 6 cavity Lee 358-158-rf and just get used to casting that one for a while. That boolit gives excellent accuracy and will shoot well loaded hot or mild. That boolit will do anything that needs doing in a 38 special. I have cast thousands of boolits with mine.
For the 38 special or even 357 magnum loads up to about 1200 fps, range scrap(which is softer than wheelweights) will work just fine. I water quench mine from the mold for a little extra hardness and haven't had any issues with accuracy or leading for decades.
Range scrap ingots off ebay tend to be a little cheaper than wheelweights.
I buy White Label X-Lox in large bottles and tumble lube with that. Don't overthink your lube. You can experiment with small batches if you wish, but keep something around that you know works.
Lots of threads on this site about cleaning the mold, preheating, and all the other details of getting started in casting. Pay attention to the details and stay safe. You will get tremendous satisfaction out of making your own loads and having them work as well or better than factory.

[EDG]

In recent years Lee improved his mold designs by using steel bullet nosed pins and bushings to align the mold halves. This single design change should make Lee molds a much better and longer lived product.
When you buy molds be sure you get recent production and not one of the older molds. For any handgun application use a 6 cavity mold with a bottom pour furnace. You need much higher volume production for handguns so just pass on a 2 cavity mold. The 2 cavity molds are ok especially for a rifle but you want buckets of bullets for handgun fun.


I've loaded enough revolver cartridges to feel like I have a good handle on it and I find that I am using a lot of commercial cast in my favorite loads, so I have decided to put together a basic casting setup together without spending a while lot of money. I will be getting my hands on a lee bottom pour pot, lee molds, a lee sizing die and plan to tumble lube. Since I shoot 38 special the most, I will start with a 158 grain RNFP mold and a 148 grain wadcutter mold. To keep things simple up front, I will be buying wheel weight ingots off ebay and will figure out sourcing and smelting lead later. I figure if I cast some bullets at 3 cents a piece instead of buying them for 8 cents a pop I am doing well enough for now. If this all goes well, I will get my hands on a 44 mag and possible a 35 Rem mold as well.

I have done a bunch of searching, but I still have a few stupid newbie questions:

- Should I start with a 2 cavity or 6 cavity mold? The goal is regular practice and plinking fodder so volume is a goal, but I do not want to bite off more than I can chew.

- Should I expect to get usable bullets out of my first casting session?

- Can I cast with straight wheel weight material, or do I have to add something (tin) to the pot?

- I am a beekeeper and I think it would be neat to use some beeswax in my lube. Can I use the 50/50 beeswax/LLA mixture for tumble lubing, or is it too think/solid for that?

Anything else I should be aware of? Suggestions very much appreciated as I plan to assemble everything and do my first cast in the next month. I want to cast outside and it is probably better to do that while the weather is still good.

[Wayne Smith]

Start out right. Get a hotplate to pre-heat your mold, especially if you get a six cavity. Yes, Lee molds are very usable. I have bunches, from one cavity hp/hb to six cavity special order. I use them regularly. Be gentle with them, keep them clean, and don't beat on them and they will last a lifetime of use. I also have Lyman, RCBS, NOE, Mehic, etc. and use them as well.

[slim1836]

Try powder coating in lieu of lube, works great in pistols and the boolits don't oxidize in storage. Less messy too. Pan lube beats tumble lube in my opinion as only the lube groves get coated, thus dust does not collect on the noses.

Welcome, it only gets worse.

Slim

[Edward]

I've loaded enough revolver cartridges to feel like I have a good handle on it and I find that I am using a lot of commercial cast in my favorite loads, so I have decided to put together a basic casting setup together without spending a while lot of money. I will be getting my hands on a lee bottom pour pot, lee molds, a lee sizing die and plan to tumble lube. Since I shoot 38 special the most, I will start with a 158 grain RNFP mold and a 148 grain wadcutter mold. To keep things simple up front, I will be buying wheel weight ingots off ebay and will figure out sourcing and smelting lead later. I figure if I cast some bullets at 3 cents a piece instead of buying them for 8 cents a pop I am doing well enough for now. If this all goes well, I will get my hands on a 44 mag and possible a 35 Rem mold as well.

I have done a bunch of searching, but I still have a few stupid newbie questions:

- Should I start with a 2 cavity or 6 cavity mold? The goal is regular practice and plinking fodder so volume is a goal, but I do not want to bite off more than I can chew.

- Should I expect to get usable bullets out of my first casting session?

- Can I cast with straight wheel weight material, or do I have to add something (tin) to the pot?

- I am a beekeeper and I think it would be neat to use some beeswax in my lube. Can I use the 50/50 beeswax/LLA mixture for tumble lubing, or is it too think/solid for that?

Anything else I should be aware of? Suggestions very much appreciated as I plan to assemble everything and do my first cast in the next month. I want to cast outside and it is probably better to do that while the weather is still good.

Buy your lead here ,never ebay you will get not what is advertised just what is laying around and that is avoided by buying from folks you can trust ! Namely the people in swap+ sell .Everything you need (including experience on casting boolits will be found here)

[Green Ghost]

brewer12345, firstly, welcome to the casting community and the best casting resource on the internet Let me try to answer your questions.

If I were you, I'd start off with a 2 cavity mold. They're easier to regulate the temperature on and that is the key to getting good bullets. A 2 cavity mold will make about 100 bullets an hour. Make sure to deburr the sprue plate before you start casting or it'll scratch up the top of your mold blocks. If you decide to start out with a 6 cavity mold please follow Wayne Smith's advice to get a hotplate to preheat your mold.

If you clean your mold well with dawn dishwashing soap and get it up to the right temperature, you can expect good bullets from your first casting session. In my experience, the first time a mold is used it could cast good on the first pour or the last.

Wheel weights are an excellent alloy to cast bullets from as is. Some people like to add a bit of tin or pewter to aid fill out. About 2% by weight is about right. I don't use tin, but it's an option for you.

I use alot of wax for my lube. It's a mixture of bees wax and vasoline. I use it in a luber/sizer. I've never used a tumble lube so I can't speak to that aspect of lubing.

The main problem for the beginning caster is getting the mold temperature right. Start by dipping a corner of the mold into the lead for about a minute then tilt the to the other mold half and dip that for about a minute. when you start pouring, leave a big sprue puddle on the sprue plate (about the size of a quarter).

If your bullets are rounded or have wrinkles, your mold is too cold.
If your bullets are shiny and well filled out, congrats! your doing good.
If your bullets are well filled out but frosted looking, your mold is a little too hot. Cast slower.

Happy Casting,

Jerry

[lightman]

Welcome to the addiction! The guys seem to have answered most of your questions. I would suggest a 20# pot if you buy 6 cavity molds. If not, you will spend a lot of time waiting on a 10# pot to catch up. I'll second skipping EBay and looking in our swapping and selling section. A $12 Walmart hot plate was a very worthwhile addition to my casting bench. Its possible to get good bullets at the first casting session but most don't. Its not rocket science but there is a learning curve. Be prepared so you are not disappointed. You can post pictures of your results and someone here can advise you.

[Wayne Smith]

Look up Emmert's lube on this site. I use it exclusively for pistol/revolver and BP loading. I actually use the Emmerts with additions.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Maybe a dumb question, but are the Lee molds usable or not? I load shotshells with a Lee Load-All which is very much maligned by people who have spent a lot more on the equipment. There was a bit of a learning curve with it, but it works just fine. Similar deal with the molds?

Yes, Lee molds are usable.

Sometimes you do get one, that turns out to be a problem child, but most times those problems can be worked out, if you are handy with tools...some people consider a Lee mold as a partially assembled kit, that needs to be "finished" (search Lee-menting).

BUT, sometimes...or I should same MANY times (since they improved there product in 2013) you get a perfectly functioning mold that functions as well as a expensive $80 mold.

Of the very many new Lee 2 cav. molds I have bought, I only had one the was untune-able and unfixable. I sent it back, and Lee sent me a new mold, that worked perfect right out of the box.

[Green Frog]

Welcome to the madness, Mr OP! :drinks:

There have been plenty of comments about which pot and moulds to buy, so I'll just say I use a pair of Lee 20 pounders and keep fiddling with them to minimize dripping, and use a variety of moulds from many manufacturers. I generally prefer 1 and 2 cavity iron moulds from Lyman, but use good examples of aluminum and brass as well. :cbpour:

The big reason I'm joining in on this thread has to do with lube... specifically lube using that beeswax you already have. While beeswax alone has virtually no lubricating value, when combined with something slick like Crisco or lanolin, it is the basis for excellent lube mixes, and can be used for dip or pan lubing as well as cast into sticks for lube pumps. I used to make a lube that was mostly beeswax and lanolin until the latter became expensive and hard to find, then switched to modified Emmert's for a large portion of what I lubricate. Search out Emmert's on this site and look for the ones that add a little lanolin and a little carnauba. Any components you lack locally can be ordered from "randyrat." Enjoy your new addiction! :mrgreen:

Froggie

[brewer12345]

Lots of great comments and helpful suggestions! Thank you very much.

I was planning to get a 20 pound melter rather than a 10 pounder. Since I shoot 38s out of a lever as well as revolvers, I go through at least a couple hundred with every range session so it would be nice to be able to keep up.

I will probably start out tumble lubing with LLA for starters. I figure I can always fiddle with things over time, especially if I buy a lubrisizer.

Silly question: I looked at the buy and sell forum and did not see lead/alloy for sale. Am I missing something?

[L Erie Caster]

Try this
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?63886-Lead-Ingots-For-Sale-Buyer-s-Choice/page46
good product at a fair price

[lightman]

In swapping and selling it comes and goes constantly. Look under vender sponsors. The Captian, for one, has been in the business a long time.

[tazman]

Lots of great comments and helpful suggestions! Thank you very much.

I was planning to get a 20 pound melter rather than a 10 pounder. Since I shoot 38s out of a lever as well as revolvers, I go through at least a couple hundred with every range session so it would be nice to be able to keep up.

I will probably start out tumble lubing with LLA for starters. I figure I can always fiddle with things over time, especially if I buy a lubrisizer.

Silly question: I looked at the buy and sell forum and did not see lead/alloy for sale. Am I missing something?

You aren't missing anything. The sales for lead are not always there. Prices on ebay are nearly the same as long as you shop judiciously.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Lots of great comments and helpful suggestions! Thank you very much.

I was planning to get a 20 pound melter rather than a 10 pounder. Since I shoot 38s out of a lever as well as revolvers, I go through at least a couple hundred with every range session so it would be nice to be able to keep up.

I will probably start out tumble lubing with LLA for starters. I figure I can always fiddle with things over time, especially if I buy a lubrisizer.

Silly question: I looked at the buy and sell forum and did not see lead/alloy for sale. Am I missing something?

You aren't missing anything. The sales for lead are not always there. Prices on ebay are nearly the same as long as you shop judiciously.

Our S&S has a lot of activity, there is usually 10+ new threads for various casting related items every day. When Lead is listed below a market price, it will sell quick, usually within 24 hours. If you are in the market to buy, then watch S&S daily, some of us watch it hourly.

One thing to be watchful for, when buying heavy items (like lead ingots) that will ship via USPS, is that they be packed properly...I've ordered from Kathy (TheCaptain) many times, it's always packed well, the box always arrives intact.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?333385-VS-quot-Fire-Sale-quot-Clipon-Stickon-and-Range-Lead-1-00-per-pound-w-shipping-discou&highlight=lead

[slim1836]

It may help to list where you live, there may be members nearby that can offer advice and supplies.

Slim

[Wayne Smith]

And to specifically respond to your original question, I just yesterday received shipment on my latest Lee mold - .395 RB. My first of the new two cavity design. They are my go to first choice round ball molds.

[KVO]

While you may have a perfect first session, don't be discouraged if it doesn't go so hot. My experience with many new molds (especially aluminum from ALL the makers) has been that they have a high reject rate for the first 2-3 casting sessions. Surely some will disagree with me. Lee molds are hit or miss as to whether or not they drop large enough, are cut centered in the blocks, flat sprue plate, etc. For the money they are worth the gamble most of the time, but you may end up with a "mold kit" that will need some tuning to work its best. I started with Lee and am still very fond of some of them. Just keep an open mind and check back in here as you make progress!

[clum553946]

The only dumb questions are the ones not asked! I think learning on a two cavity is a good idea. It let's you start getting the timing down & keeps the pace slow enough for you to see what's going on. Another plus is that when you get comfortable, you can sell your molds you don't use anymore at swap & sell. You will, as you have already noticed, that there are a lot of members here that are willing to help, that's what's so good about this forum. We have a great bunch of members! If you can find someone local, as has already been suggested, it really cuts down on the learning curve! Welcome to the addiction, part of the fun is the learning of our insidious pastime!

[MT Gianni]

I would rather make my mistakes, and you will, on a $20 mold than a more expensive one.

[Duckiller]

You are just starting. Not sure what you want to do . Get a two cavity Lee mold. If you like it and know what you want you can spend a BUNCH of money on molds.

[Moonie]

The lee 6 cavity have been better quality in the past, I have little experience with the new design used on the 2 cavity but I would suggest a 2 cavity 158 RNFP to begin with. I have this mold in a 6 cavity and it is my favorite 38/357 mold. The 6 cavity are a little more complicated to use and do not come with handles, get the hang of the 2 cavity and then get a 6 cavity if you need to. I have a 125gr version of this boolit that I purchased to feed my brothers girlfriends 38 special 642. I've since started using it in 357 Sig rounds and decided I needed a 6 cavity but haven't pulled the trigger yet. The 6 cavity molds make boolits much faster.

I would agree with getting lead from our vendors or from the S&S section of this forum.

Also do let us know where you live, we are a very helpful group and I'm sure there will be someone near you that is happy to help you get started.

[David2011]

You can end up with good boolits the first session. The 358-158-RF is a great design, good for plinking, competition and hunting. I have a six cavity version. IMO the learning curve to get the six cavity mold running is less painful than buying a two cavity and regretting/replacing it later. Straight WW will work but a little added tin (easy to do) will flow and fill out better. Buy from vendors here whenever you can. They're trusted people.

An inexpensive smooth topped hot plate is your best friend on the casting bench. It will preheat and keep your mold hot, saving a lot of effort getting it up to temp. Available at resale shops really cheap or new for $10-$20. Worth every penny.

[Bama]

Lots of great comments and helpful suggestions! Thank you very much.

I was planning to get a 20 pound melter rather than a 10 pounder. Since I shoot 38s out of a lever as well as revolvers, I go through at least a couple hundred with every range session so it would be nice to be able to keep up.

I will probably start out tumble lubing with LLA for starters. I figure I can always fiddle with things over time, especially if I buy a lubrisizer.

Silly question: I looked at the buy and sell forum and did not see lead/alloy for sale. Am I missing something?

Don't overlook Roto Metals at top of this page. They ship quick and have a bunch of info and materials you will probably need in future. They are good to work with and reliable.

[popper]

He's in Denver Metro. 2 hole Lee will get you started and allow mistakes to be 'inexpensive'. Lee uses a soft Al. alloy so the block tops will score easily. You say pistol & rifle so I'd get the Lee and check fit for both. Range scrap & isocore from S&S will work fine. Ben's liquid lube works great and several are/have worked out new formulas as JPW isn't available anymore - BLL works great. Doesn't smoke as much as LLA.
I started & learned with the Lee 20# & 401 2x mould - still have them but moved on to a mould I like better - 4x Accurate. 2x is still fast enough for me.

[slownsteady22]

youtube is your friend as well as this site. Watch.....Read......Cast, be patient and soon your favorite part of reloading will be casting.


Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk

[wistlepig1]

Start out right. Get a hotplate to pre-heat your mold, especially if you get a six cavity. Yes, Lee molds are very usable. I have bunches, from one cavity hp/hb to six cavity special order. I use them regularly. Be gentle with them, keep them clean, and don't beat on them and they will last a lifetime of use. I also have Lyman, RCBS, NOE, Mehic, etc. and use them as well.

One more on getting a cheap hotplate for 6 hole molds, things will go much easier for you.

[mto7464]

You can cast more then 100 and hour with a lee 2 hole mold. I cast just under and hour the other day and cast 270. I have the corner of the towel I dump by boolits on damp and after getting going real well i touch the mold to the towel to cool it off every 3 or 4th time. If not the mold gets really hot and you have to slow down. Lee are not the best but they work. I PC almost everything now and love it.

[brewer12345]

Well, I finally got to the range and tried out some test loads with my cast boolits. The dewc was the bee's knees with a fairly stiff charge of 3.8 grains of hp38. Neither revolver much liked any of my 3 attempts with the rnfp loads. However, the rifle shot as well as I am able with these boolits over 3.8 grains of hp38.

Overall I can't complain. I wish one load worked for everything, but wadcutters have always done best in the revolvers. I am particularly pleased to find that the dewc load is at least as accurate as what I worked up for the expensive berrys plated dewc bullet. Guess I can continue casting away.

[jeff100]

I have a lot of molds as I cast for a variety of calibers, rifle and handgun. My molds are a mix of Lee and NOE. About 2/3 of my molds are Lee, most are the six cavity version, in my experience they are a very good value and they work well for me, I get excellent bullets from ALL of my Lee molds. Some time after I started casting I finally acquired a hot plate. That really improved my casting process, allowing me to preheat my molds. Lastly I rely on a good thermometer. Some people claim you don't need one. Maybe some don't but I couldn't cast well without a thermometer, I need to know what the temp of my melt is in my Lee 4-20 pot. Some people call the Lee 4-20 the 'drip-o-matic'. I've learned that you don't smelt lead in your casting pot, clean lead only goes into my Lee 4-20 and I don't have trouble with my pot leaking. Yeah, it drips once in awhile, I just rotate the valve stem and the drip stops. Clean lead, that's the trick with this pot. YMMV...JJ