10mm and hp mold question s

[Strtspdlx]

I bought a noe 403-17x hp mold and it works well I used straight view for alloy and though yt? Maybe because im pushing them around super sonic they'd hold together. I was wrong. I shot one onto a buckert of water. It went all of 3 feet and fragmented so I'm thinking of cutting it 50/50 with pure or does anyone have Any other suggestion?

[Wayne Smith]

"straight view for alloy and through yt?" I have no idea what that means.

[Elkins45]

I'm guessing autocorrect substituted view for WW, but I can't figure out the rest.

[Strtspdlx]

Yeah I apologize. I got a new phone and it's worse then the last one. And honestly I can't remember what I typed. But yes I was using coww , the other word should be thought, no idea how that worked out with autocorrect.

Anyhow I tried some 10:1 alloy and I'm much happier with the results. I got a projectile that started out at .4015 and weighed 178gn. And when recovered at widest it measured .740 an weighed in at 176.5gn. This was just one shot. I have to make up more. Hopefully I'll be able to soon.

[fredj338]

IMO, for best results you need to eliminate the antimony as much as possible. my serious LHP for hunting are just lead & tin; 20-1 or 25-1. At 20-1, 1200fps will work pretty well. HP designs is everything though. I prefer cup points above 1000fps.

[Strtspdlx]

Fredj338 the mold is an noe with a hp pin that runs to about the grease groove. It also comes with a shallow hp pin that I haven't tried yet.

[landers]

I completely agree with Fredj338, I had to eliminate the antimony for handgun hp bullets. I found 20-1 to be the best option although a little pricey.

Landers