PDA

View Full Version : Favorite recipe for wheel weight lead



bigcountry022885
08-13-2017, 01:09 AM
Linotype in a 1 to 5 was what my grandpa used when making casting alloy from wheel waits and we always used a injection style lube I have just started playing with hi tek and wanted to know if I need to change my mix for this style bullet or no


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

runfiverun
08-13-2017, 03:41 AM
no...

Lloyd Smale
08-13-2017, 06:50 AM
that alloy would work for 95 percent of all bullet casting.

6bg6ga
08-13-2017, 07:15 AM
And to think I only use wheel weights for mine.

Gtek
08-13-2017, 07:59 AM
Weight a minute, does anybody else have one of those phones that changes words when your not paying attention?

Echo
08-13-2017, 10:22 AM
Weight a minute, does anybody else have one of those phones that changes words when your not paying attention?
Damm straight! Mine ALWAYS changes 'loob' to 'loon'!

DerekP Houston
08-13-2017, 10:35 AM
Weight a minute, does anybody else have one of those phones that changes words when your not paying attention?

yup, annoying as heck when viewing on the phone.

I think that would be a fine alloy if you are swimming in linotype, I don't personally have that luxury! by weight I'll add 1-2% tin depending on how well the bullets are filling out. No need to change alloy for hitek vs traditional lube.

dragon813gt
08-13-2017, 11:09 AM
Weight a minute, does anybody else have one of those phones that changes words when your not paying attention?

I see what you did there. My phone has the habit or replacing "f" w/ a "d". I don't know why it thinks I like ducks so much [emoji23]

bigcountry022885
08-13-2017, 11:13 AM
Linotype is getting harder to get but I'm lucky in the sense that my grandfather got barrels of it back in the 80s and 90s dirt cheep and when he passed away my dad and me split what was there for our casting I bet I got at least 800# of it now and I have been casting on it for 4 years


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bigcountry022885
08-13-2017, 11:15 AM
And to think I only use wheel weights for mine.

I use straight wheel wait for some of mine like my flintlocks and my old rolling blocks but for newer cartridges I like a harder mix


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

6bg6ga
08-13-2017, 11:18 AM
Just cast some wheel weight 44 mag 240gr SWC bullets that measured 11-13 for hardness on my hardness gauge (the one with the dial indicator on it) can't remember the name but made by ST Machining,LLC 509-382-8926

bigcountry022885
08-14-2017, 01:24 AM
that alloy would work for 95 percent of all bullet casting.

So I have a NOE 60gr RN hi tek mold so no lube groves and loaded up 223 for my bolt action 1and 8 twist and I know my charge was right but the lead was givin to me from a friend and was harder than my normal mix by a lot I usually shoot for bhn 18-22 this was 27 and I couldn't get a group under 5in at 100 yards will to hard of a bullet cause the inaccuracy my old lee 55gr with my lead mix shot about 1.5in at 100 I am trying to figure out this new coating stuff and it's driving me nuts I should of stuck to my original lead mix to see how it worked first any thaughts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

303Guy
08-14-2017, 02:05 AM
I see what you did there. My phone has the habit or replacing "f" w/ a "d". I don't know why it thinks I like ducks so much [emoji23]

:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:! My sides hurt!

Mine stopped doing that after what I presume to be an update. Now it doesn't correct anything but gives me a selection including the original. Much better.

lightman
08-14-2017, 04:08 AM
I've always used straight clip-on weights for all of my handguns and rifles in 30-30 and 45-70. Your blend is fine if you are that heavy into lino but its not necessary. Most of us don't have that much lino and tend to hoard it.

Retumbo
08-14-2017, 06:36 AM
For rifle COWW + 2% tin.

Lloyd Smale
08-14-2017, 07:25 AM
Ill agree with some in that ww is good enough for most. Good enough to make your gun go bang. What I have found though is in most smokeless loading harder alloys usually give better accuracy. When I doing serious accuracy work I usually like to use a 16+bhn alloy. It isn't every time but its often enough to know its the norm. So it comes down to what you want. If you just want to roll beer cans or make your gun go bang then about any alloy will work. If your looking for one or two inch 50 yard groups out of a handgun harder alloys are about allways an advantage. At least in a good gun anyway. Guns that need softer alloys to bump up to fix pour manufacturing don't stay in my safe long.

Larry Gibson
08-14-2017, 09:19 AM
"If your looking for one or two inch 50 yard groups out of a handgun harder alloys are about allways an advantage."

My experience also......

beltfed
08-14-2017, 10:33 AM
I,too have a pretty good supply of Lino.
My favorite "general use" alloy is 90% COWW/ 10% Lino.
Comes out in the "15s" for Brinnell/lee tester.
but for precision rifle shooting, I go with straight Lino.
beltfed/arnie

buckshotshoey
08-14-2017, 11:07 AM
Uhhhhhh? Wheel weights? Lol
Oh, and water quench.

white eagle
08-14-2017, 11:17 AM
wait a minute is this thread about lead or phones :awesome:

bigcountry022885
08-14-2017, 11:24 AM
wait a minute is this thread about lead or phones :awesome:

I thought I made it about lead but stuff happens lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

David2011
08-14-2017, 09:19 PM
Long as we're OT our safety guy sent out a notice that We were having a shut down due to ice and snow. I couldn't believe it when his Apple iPhone subbed an "i" for the u in shut. Did it TWICE during separate storms.

Green Frog
08-17-2017, 11:43 AM
I use straight wheel wait for some of mine like my flintlocks and my old rolling blocks but for newer cartridges I like a harder mix


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For front stuffers (mostly musket and C&B revolver) and BP cartridge rounds I find even straight COWWs a little hard, but I like them with a little (1-2%) tin for "casual" shooting with cast handgun bullets. I don't even know what I would do with a treasure trove of nearly a half ton of Linotype like the OP has... I'm about as likely to have a half ton of GOLD! I use my rather limited stash of type metal mostly for hard mix for competition pistol bullets.

BTW, when the Earth was younger and Linotype was more available, the Lyman Cast Bullet books had a formula to mix Linotype to make their ubiquitous "Lyman #2" alloy for which most of their mounds were cut.

Froggie

Green Frog
08-17-2017, 11:54 AM
Long as we're OT our safety guy sent out a notice that We were having a shut down due to ice and snow. I couldn't believe it when his Apple iPhone subbed an "i" for the u in shut. Did it TWICE during separate storms.

Does that mean you were having a "sh*t storm?" :mrgreen:

bigcountry022885
08-17-2017, 11:56 AM
For front stuffers (mostly musket and C&B revolver) and BP cartridge rounds I find even straight COWWs a little hard, but I like them with a little (1-2%) tin for "casual" shooting with cast handgun bullets. I don't even know what I would do with a treasure trove of nearly a half ton of Linotype like the OP has... I'm about as likely to have a half ton of GOLD! I use my rather limited stash of type metal mostly for hard mix for competition pistol bullets.

BTW, when the Earth was younger and Linotype was more available, the Lyman Cast Bullet books had a formula to mix Linotype to make their ubiquitous "Lyman #2" alloy for which most of their mounds were cut.

Froggie

I know but strait lead is hard to find here and I am very fortunate to have the Linotype I got when I was little my grandfather found it all at an auction if I remover right he got it for like .35 cents a LBS I know me and dad when's with him to pick it all up so we have been casting on it seance I was a kid I will buy some from time to time when I find it reasonable just to keep my hordes of it up I just bought some from rotometals because it was on sale I got 60lbs for 100 bucks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Outpost75
08-17-2017, 12:08 PM
Linotype + Wheelweight blends, to estimate hardness:

[Lino-Pounds(22) + WW-pounds(12)] / TotalPounds = BHN

1:10 linotype to wheelweights 1(22) +10(12) = 142/11 = 12.9 BHN
1:5 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 5(12) = 82 /6 = 13.6 BHN
1:4 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 4(12) = 70 / 5 = 14 BHN
1:3 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 3(12) = 58 / 4 = 14.5 BHN
1:2 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 2(12) = 46 / 3 = 15 BHN
1:1 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 1(12) = 34 / 2 = 17 BHN

If you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype, wheelweight or backstop scrap, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.

For softer alloys linotype + plumber's lead blends work very well:

LinoPounds(22)+LeadPounds(5) / TotalPounds = EstBHN

A 50-50 linotype-lead blend at 13.5 BHN is slightly softer than commercial hardball or Lyman No.2 alloy. (22)+(5) /2 = 13.5

A 1:2 linotype-lead blend at "about 10.5 BHN" approximates 1:20 alloy and is well suited for revolver and black powder cartridge "smokeless" applications. (22)+2(5) /3 = 10.6 BHN

A 1:4 linotype-lead blend at 8.5 BHN approximates the hardness of 1:30 alloy and is best for black powder cartridges, in subsonic, smokeless revolver loads, or with plain based rifle bullets below 1300 fps and is satisfactory up to 1700 fps with gas checks in rifles for hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+4(5) /5 = 8.5 BHN

A 1:5 linotype-lead blend at 8 BHN approximates 1:40 alloy and is the frugal shooters best bang for the buck to make your alloy go far as possible in revolver, cowboy loads, black powder cartridge, and subsonic hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+5(5) / 6 = 8 BHN

Again, if you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype or plumber's lead, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.

bigcountry022885
08-17-2017, 12:18 PM
Linotype + Wheelweight blends, to estimate hardness:

[Lino-Pounds(22) + WW-pounds(12)] / TotalPounds = BHN

1:10 linotype to wheelweights 1(22) +10(12) = 142/11 = 12.9 BHN
1:5 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 5(12) = 82 /6 = 13.6 BHN
1:4 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 4(12) = 70 / 5 = 14 BHN
1:3 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 3(12) = 58 / 4 = 14.5 BHN
1:2 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 2(12) = 46 / 3 = 15 BHN
1:1 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 1(12) = 34 / 2 = 17 BHN

If you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype, wheelweight or backstop scrap, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.

For softer alloys linotype + plumber's lead blends work very well:

LinoPounds(22)+LeadPounds(5) / TotalPounds = EstBHN

A 50-50 linotype-lead blend at 13.5 BHN is slightly softer than commercial hardball or Lyman No.2 alloy. (22)+(5) /2 = 13.5

A 1:2 linotype-lead blend at "about 10.5 BHN" approximates 1:20 alloy and is well suited for revolver and black powder cartridge "smokeless" applications. (22)+2(5) /3 = 10.6 BHN

A 1:4 linotype-lead blend at 8.5 BHN approximates the hardness of 1:30 alloy and is best for black powder cartridges, in subsonic, smokeless revolver loads, or with plain based rifle bullets below 1300 fps and is satisfactory up to 1700 fps with gas checks in rifles for hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+4(5) /5 = 8.5 BHN

A 1:5 linotype-lead blend at 8 BHN approximates 1:40 alloy and is the frugal shooters best bang for the buck to make your alloy go far as possible in revolver, cowboy loads, black powder cartridge, and subsonic hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+5(5) / 6 = 8 BHN

Again, if you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype or plumber's lead, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.

Thanks for the info my Lino 1 to 5 with wheel waits usually comes out of the water quench around 18 to 20 bhn


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

lablover
08-17-2017, 02:52 PM
Ill agree with some in that ww is good enough for most. Good enough to make your gun go bang. What I have found though is in most smokeless loading harder alloys usually give better accuracy. When I doing serious accuracy work I usually like to use a 16+bhn alloy. It isn't every time but its often enough to know its the norm. So it comes down to what you want. If you just want to roll beer cans or make your gun go bang then about any alloy will work. If your looking for one or two inch 50 yard groups out of a handgun harder alloys are about allways an advantage. At least in a good gun anyway. Guns that need softer alloys to bump up to fix pour manufacturing don't stay in my safe long.

IS this for Bullseye type shooting? If so I'd be curious what mold and recipe is if you care to share. I'm trying to work all this out for bullseye loads myself

Thanks

popper
08-17-2017, 10:52 PM
New boolit that is heavier and more bearing surface, drop the load a tad.

Grmps
08-24-2017, 04:08 PM
Outpost75 is that with the older COWW or the newer ones that require 2% more tin?

Echo
08-25-2017, 12:39 AM
Back to the original title, my favorite recipe is 35 lbs WW ingots, 5 lbs monotype, and an additional 1% Sn. Makes an alloy with ~ 2.75% Sn, 5% Sb, 92.25% Pb. Use it for rifle boolits, and cut it 50/50 w/Pb and add anther 1% Sn for pistol boolits.

bigcountry022885
08-25-2017, 12:41 AM
Back to the original title, my favorite recipe is 35 lbs WW ingots, 5 lbs monotype, and an additional 1% Sn. Makes an alloy with ~ 2.75% Sn, 5% Sb, 92.25% Pb. Use it for rifle boolits, and cut it 50/50 w/Pb and add anther 1% Sn for pistol boolits.

Nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leadmelter
08-26-2017, 08:52 PM
I have a half of bag of lead shot laying around. Don"t shoot shotgun
What is the make up of lead shot? How much to add to say a 10 lbs of COWW to harden it up?
Leadmelter
MI

Green Frog
08-27-2017, 01:19 PM
Lead shot is widely variable depending on its intended use and its manufacturer. Further examination of the label on the bag. Otherwise I personally would regard that 10-15# of shot as about equivalent to range scrap and mix it accordingly. Others might have a different take on things.

Froggie