I think I'm going to quit

[Lead melter]

Picked up a nice M44 M/N today at the nearby Gander Mountain store. This is to replace another that I loaned out to some "respectable" person who has never bothered to return it. Problem is, I can't remember to whom it was loaned.:confused:

The new one is really nice once all the cosmoline was cleaned off. All matching serials, no wear on the bolt face, nice crisp rifling, 200lb trigger (I'll work on that later).

I decided to slug the bore to see what diameter boolit it will need. Decided on a pure Lee C312-185-1R beagled to .315", then compressed to .317". I started the slug down the oiled bore, used a 1/4" dowel rod and hammer to drive it in. Naturally at about 3/4 of the way through the dowel broke. Another dowel to drive the rest of the way. Yep, you guessed it...it broke also. Now all I had was some 1/4" steel rod to drive the slug and dowels out. The rod expanded the dowel end as it drove in. I finally got the slug out the other side, but now the dowels were expanded bore size and wedged in tighter than a deacons wallet.

After several attempted methods to get the rods out, (I even thought about loading up a dummy with about 5 grains Unique, but I was afraid to go that far) I finally had to resort to drilling the dowel out at the muzzle, which got rid of some of the frayed dowel rod. I then found a piece of .275" steel rod and used it to hammer the dowels out from the chamber end. About 2 hours of work and I finally got the rods out with the hope I have not scarred up the rifling. The dowel rods have definite rifling marks on them, and I plan to keep them as a reminder why I plan on giving up slugging barrels.

Where did I go wrong? How is this type action done without such a hassle? Each time I have tried this, it has been a near tragedy, but this is by far the worst.

The only good part is that the grooves mic out at .315" which is a lot better than my other M/N at .317"

[montana_charlie]

Was that hardwood dowel...or pine?
CM

[Calamity Jake]

Use a 1/4" brass rod about 6" longer than the longest barreled rifle you have and don't worry about it. 3/16" works for the 6's and 6.5's

[Lead melter]

Pine. I can't find hardwood around here.

[mooman76]

That's why I use a steel rod. You can wrap tape around it to prevent damage.

[Meatco1]

I cut my dowels in six inch sections, pound one down, then the next, and so on. Hard to snap a 6 inch section.

Richard

[chrisx1]

They make brass rods in many different sizes......invest in them just as you would any other accessory for your rifle.

Best wishes on the rifling, hope it's o.k.

I did nearly the same thing with a revolver on my second time slugging a barrel - right then and there I promised myself I would not do it again without an appropriate sized brass rod.

Chris

[405]

One piece smooth, straight steel rod with blunt end inserted into empty small brass pistol case or with flat faced brass jag. No breaks, no damage, no problems. Can be used with stategically placed tape or muzzle guard if worried about that.

[Blammer]

I'd just slug the throat and first few inches, then pound it back out the way it came.

[pumpguy]

Pine. I can't find hardwood around here.

Try looking for some square stock in red oak. Have you tried Lowes or Home Depot?

[felix]

Blammer has the best technique. My preference is just to load the largest diameter boolit that the neck of the case can accept, and work down from there until ignition is proper for the boolit. ... felix

[Slowpoke]

Next time try reducing the bearing length if using a cylindrical slug, you only need a 1/8 inch of full bearing to measure. Think one drive band if using a bullet.

For 30 cal and 35 cal I use a steel rod with a hornet case on the end when doing pound throat slugs. You need to reduce the rim diameter for the 30's but it is easy.

LBT sell's nifty slugs for slugging bores, they work with just a cleaning rod, makes it a breeze.

good luck

[KCSO]

I use a 320 round ball for slugging 30 cal. and i push it through with a brass rod or I slip a 310 ball in the muzzle and upset it with a short and a long rod ro measure muzzle and breech. If you have to POUND any wood dowell in a rifle barrel you are already in trouble you just haven't realized it yet.

[copdills]

Sorry you had a rough time , but you did get it ouit and found a tighter barrel than you had that makes it better good luck

[GrizzLeeBear]

I do like Meatco. Use a hardwood dowel cut into 6 inch sections.

Also, you said you drove it through the "oiled bore". What oil? I would highly recommend using a good lube, not oil. I've used case lube, but something like Imperial sizing wax may be even better.

[Wayne Smith]

The only way I would even think of using hardwood is if it is riven, that is, split the long way. This guarantees straight grain. This is how wooden ramrods are made and hickory is the best for that, osage orange probably the next best. Any other hardwood dowel is guaranteed to break unless it fits the bore perfectly.

I need to invest in another brass rod as mine is now bent from pounding slugs through bores. Keeping it as clean as possible has been how I have used it, but I need a new one and tape it to fit the bores.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Polished steel, the harder the better, is the best rod to slug a bore. All it could possibly do, would be to burnish the lands, adding to accuracy if anything. It's also the best material for cleaning rods. For about 30cal., I used to like to use the torsion bar springs that held open automobile trunks. There used to be two of them, crosswise, attached to the hinges. Don't know if they're still made that way.
Morgan

[BABore]

Bottom line, don't use a wooden dowel. Go break one over your knee. Do they ever break clean, 90 degrees to their length? No! They break at an angled plane. Perfect to create a nice wedge when broke off in a bbl. Use a steel rod taped up. Close fitting aluminum or brass rod works fine too. I made up a couple steel rods and taped them up real good. The end is tapped 8-32. I make up soft brass ends, just below bore size, and screw them on.

Couple of years ago, while visiting a local smithy, he was laboring over a rifle with the same wedged in dowel situation. He ended up using heat to get it out. Not a good solution, but it worked. Another guy, over on LeverGunLovers forum, did the same dowel trick last year. Can't remember how his smith got it out. We still tease the snot out of him about it.

You can get away with a dowel, but sooner or later it's going to bite you.