Shiloh Sharps .45-70

[mac266]

I've been saving my pennies and I'm getting closer to being able to plunk down the cash for one of these fine gems. I've decided on .45-70 because Shiloh guarantees that caliber for black powder as well as smokeless loads; I want the versatility of having both options. The availability of brass, dies, etc. is good, too. My range currently goes out to 600 yards, but the board has been promising for years to build out to 1000.

In any event, I'm now looking for some advice on things like:

- Boolit mould, keeping in mind that I'm planning to shoot from 600-1000 yards.

- Alloy for black powder loads

- Alloy for smokeless loads

- favorite powder for smokeless loads

I probably won't hunt with this gun because I don't want to carry it around Colorado's mountains; I'm just going to ring steel gongs. If I ever change my mind on that I'll come back around for more info :)

[country gent]

Are you gpoing to be having fun now. Look at bullets from 500-550 grns depending on the twist rate you get in the rifle 1-18 is about standard but some are working with 1-16 now also. The old 510 grn Lyman 457125 govt round nose can be a solid performer and works well in a lot of rifles. The 535 Lyman postel also is a good performer in most rifles. I have a 550 grn shilouette by Bernie Rowels at Old West moulds that's also a solid performer. Buffalo arms, RCBS, Old West, Saeco, Noe And accurate all have moulds in these weight ranges to look at. Also don't forget the Paper Patched bullets and the added powder capacity they give. I cast most of my BPCR bullets from 20-1 and may try adding 1-2% antimony to that to experiment a little. This is for Black Powder loads. I use Olde Ensforde and Swiss black powder in 1 1/2 f and 2 f for 45-70. I'm getting ready to work up loads for a SHarps Brochart in 45-70 with the above 3 bullets and 1 1/2f powder now.

[DHDeal]

What configuration will you order? If you plan to shoot it much, I personally would be getting a shotgun butt and keep the weight up assuming you aren't concerned with making a weight limit. While I can still shoot my BPCTR's with tang sights well, I wish they were all D&T for blocks. I would have gone to scopes long ago. I would definitely go with a faster twist barrel too.

Paper patching is something I started last year and probably won't shoot GG bullets anymore. My first BPCTR was a 45/70 and I got it for the same reason you are planning (could buy factory ammo and shoot smokeless easily enough). That same rifle, after about 17 years, hasn't had a bullet I haven't cast or smokeless down it's barrel. Black shoots too good and a bullet I cast from my own molds are better than anything I can purchase.

[masscaster]

I'd recommend 2 different moulds actually, one for smokeless and one for BPCR.
First, for smokeless is the Lyman #457406 475 gr. GC (NOE makes a clone). This is a very good and stable boolit, especially at long range, and with the proper alloy makes a very good Buffalo Hunter.
For BPCR there's a huge variety in the 500 - 600 gr. possibilities. As stated above, the Lyman #457124 would be a good place to start. The #457406 is the GC version of this boolit.

Jeff

P.S.
If you look at the Cast pic Thread I've listed several 45/70 boolits that I cast there.

[Mitch]

I got a mold from here and it casts great.it is 510gr.http://boomersmoulds.com/ they will make you any boolits you want for any alloy you want.a very nice mold.

[John Allen]

The 550 grain postells are nice. I use this unsized with gatefeo lube. I have been very happy with it.

[mac266]

What configuration will you order? If you plan to shoot it much, I personally would be getting a shotgun butt and keep the weight up assuming you aren't concerned with making a weight limit. While I can still shoot my BPCTR's with tang sights well, I wish they were all D&T for blocks. I would have gone to scopes long ago. I would definitely go with a faster twist barrel too.

Paper patching is something I started last year and probably won't shoot GG bullets anymore. My first BPCTR was a 45/70 and I got it for the same reason you are planning (could buy factory ammo and shoot smokeless easily enough). That same rifle, after about 17 years, hasn't had a bullet I haven't cast or smokeless down it's barrel. Black shoots too good and a bullet I cast from my own molds are better than anything I can purchase.

Here is the current plan:

- Shiloh Sharps "1874 Long Range Express"
- Shotgun butt with metal butt plate
- 32 or 34 inch heavy octagonal barrel (please provide advice on length)
- semi-fancy wood (not certain on this)
- standard case colored action
- sling swivels
- pewter forearm tip
- no rear dovetail
- MVR #103 Long Range Soule rear sight
- MVR #113 globe front sight with bubble level

I don't plan to ever shoot it for anything other than steel gongs with shooting sticks. If I want to hunt, I'll save for another one :)

As to shooting smokeless, I wouldn't dream of buying FACTORY ammo! I merely want the ability to shoot smokeless if I so choose, but I would definitely cast and load my own.

[country gent]

If there are weight restrictions then barrel length may be determined for you some what. Another issue with barrel length is the longer barrels get more muzzle heavy faster due to the length and added weight. A 34" barrel at the same weight is thinner than the 32" is. In dry hot conditions the extra barrel length may have a lube issue. A plus is the longer barrel gives a better sight radious with the iron sights. I have 2 rifles with 34" barrels, 1 with a 32" and 2 with 30" barrels. The 32 " is a new to me rifle I haven't fired yet but of the others I prefer the 30"over the 34s for position shooting.

[DHDeal]

Here is the current plan:

- Shiloh Sharps "1874 Long Range Express" Maybe consider the No1!
- Shotgun butt with metal butt plate Yes
- 32 or 34 inch heavy octagonal barrel (please provide advice on length) 30"
- semi-fancy wood (not certain on this) Fancy. You're only doing this once on this rifle. More figure is more better as you'll not regret doing it but you will regret not doing it.
- standard case colored action CCH. See above about regrets.
- sling swivels Why?
- pewter forearm tip Yes
- no rear dovetail D&T for BLOCKS too!
- MVR #103 Long Range Soule rear sight Awfully long staff. The medium length should do 800ish, but it's your choice of course.
- MVR #113 globe front sight with bubble level Yes

I don't plan to ever shoot it for anything other than steel gongs with shooting sticks. If I want to hunt, I'll save for another one :)

As to shooting smokeless, I wouldn't dream of buying FACTORY ammo! I merely want the ability to shoot smokeless if I so choose, but I would definitely cast and load my own.Agreed about factory ammo, but smokeless is just gonna be aggravating and for no good reason. Black will do everything you ever plan to do and honestly, it's easier than smokeless for these types of rifles!

My replies are in bold. Your money, but I have been there and so have others. It can and will get expensive in a hurry, but some things are just worth the expense as you are only building this rifle once. I just love helping spend other people's money!!!!!

Since we're talking about spending your money, don't skimp on molds! BACO sells great GG molds in the 525-540 grain range. I would get one that has a reduced first driving band (more powder). Brooks, BACO, Accurate, KAL, and others make good/great PP molds. Having shot thousands of GG bullets, I now am a PP fan. I'm a target shooter and understand the need, for me anyway, to wipe between shots. No big deal as long as you are set up for it in the beginning.

[mac266]

My replies are in bold. Your money, but I have been there and so have others. It can and will get expensive in a hurry, but some things are just worth the expense as you are only building this rifle once. I just love helping spend other people's money!!!!!

Since we're talking about spending your money, don't skimp on molds! BACO sells great GG molds in the 525-540 grain range. I would get one that has a reduced first driving band (more powder). Brooks, BACO, Accurate, KAL, and others make good/great PP molds. Having shot thousands of GG bullets, I now am a PP fan. I'm a target shooter and understand the need, for me anyway, to wipe between shots. No big deal as long as you are set up for it in the beginning.

DHDeal,

Can you please explain the following:

- "D&T for BLOCKS too!" What does this mean?

- Why 30" barrel?

- Why the number 1 over the Long Range Express?

[Boosted98gsx]

Just wondering, how strong are the chambers of those rifles in comparison to say, an 1895 guide gun? Can they handle stupid hot stuff?