Some people shouldn't be trusted with a bullet mold

[johnly]

To be fair I didn't pay much for the RCBS 45-300DC GC mold with handles. The mold had enough moly sprayed in the cavities to make suitable for making .454" diamenter bullets. A little brake cleaner and a brass brush took care of that and after cleaning the cavity surfaces were in good shape. I used the mold today and it dropped some nice bullets and when I was done I when to remove the mold from the handles and out came a 1/4 long set screw. What the heck???:shock: Now things really start getting bad, as it seems the previous owner had lost the proper mold screws and replaced them with a hardend steel pin that was held in place with the setscrews. Guess what, the pins are not interested in coming out. ****:(

I could put put the mold on the mill and: (a) drill a 1/16" hole from the sprue plate side to drive the pins out, (b) try to drill out the pin with a carbide drill, or (c) give the mold to Jerry and have use his EDM to remove the pin.

What's your suggestion and why?

Thanks for listening to me grouse....


John

[leftiye]

Some people shouldn't be allowed to reproduce!

[Echo]

Are the pins a press fit in their respective holes? If not, how about banging them on the bottom side to let inertia pull them out? Otherwise, drill the holes...

[357maximum]

To be fair I didn't pay much for the RCBS 45-300DC GC mold with handles. The mold had enough moly sprayed in the cavities to make suitable for making .454" diamenter bullets. A little brake cleaner and a brass brush took care of that and after cleaning the cavity surfaces were in good shape. I used the mold today and it dropped some nice bullets and when I was done I when to remove the mold from the handles and out came a 1/4 long set screw. What the heck???:shock: Now things really start getting bad, as it seems the previous owner had lost the proper mold screws and replaced them with a hardend steel pin that was held in place with the setscrews. Guess what, the pins are not interested in coming out. ****:(

I could put put the mold on the mill and: (a) drill a 1/16" hole from the sprue plate side to drive the pins out, (b) try to drill out the pin with a carbide drill, or (c) give the mold to Jerry and have use his EDM to remove the pin.

What's your suggestion and why?

Thanks for listening to me grouse....


John



Ummmmmmmmmmmmmm...RCBS did that to you....they made some molds like that for awhile.....call them and tell them your issue...they WILL fix it. Generally a slight hammer like downward tap of the whole mold assembly will set them free. I have had 3 molds like that that were brand new. BUBBA is responsible for alot of issues ...this one is not his load to bear.

[HeavyMetal]

copy what 357 maximum says! RCBS did use set screws and pins in thier molds for awhile I still have a 300 grain 458 DC set up that way!

[Jon K]

I had an older mould that had worn screws, I called RCBS, and they sent me set screws & pins. I also have a 7mm mould(mid 80's) that came w/pins & set screws.

Jon

[Tom W.]

I traded a fellow for an RCBS mold with handles, and the screw was buggered up so I couldn't take the handles off. I sent it to RCBS and not only did they get the mold separated from the handles, they sent me a brand new mold!

[Heavy lead]

The last two rcbs moulds I have, including the brand new 416-350gc I just bought have the pins. This was a back-ordered mould so I'm assuming that it's new stock. I chased it across the basement floor when I took the set screw out. I've had good results from the rcbs moulds I have, but I don't like that type of pin setup.

[Onlymenotu]

(d) leave the handles on the mould and use it that way

they don't hurt a thing leave em on.... they just take up a bit more space is all,,,,,, and that mould will ALWAYS have handles... no matter what

[Lloyd Smale]

try heating the mold back up and seeing if they will come out that way. If not like was said just use it with that set of handles and buy another set of handles.

[johnly]

Are the pins a p[ress fit in their respective holes? If not, how about banging them on the bottom side to let inertia pull them out? Otherwise, drill the holes...

Ed,

Your suggestion was the winner. I had the mold soaking in Kroil last night, and this morning I removed the pivot pin on the handles and rapped each half on a dead soft lead brick until the pins dropped out.

Needless to say, the pins are not going back into the mold. I'm going to machine the tips of some long set screews into the dimensions needed for this application. If you need some yourself, just drop me a PM with your address. :drinks:

John

[Glen]

I've never had any trouble at all getting the pins to come out of my RCBS moulds. Did the previous owner by any chance spray the pins with mould release? The extra "gunk" on them might be enough to make them stick in the holes. If they are clean, they generally just drop right out.

[Echo]

Glad I was of help. No, I don't need modified pins at this time, but thanks for offering. I think modifying some long setscrews, as you are doing, is the way I would go about it, too.

[johnly]

I've never had any trouble at all getting the pins to come out of my RCBS moulds. Did the previous owner by any chance spray the pins with mould release? The extra "gunk" on them might be enough to make them stick in the holes. If they are clean, they generally just drop right out.

There was some rust in the pin area, which didn't help. Still, I don't like the idea of a two piece pin, so I'm replacing those that find in my collection of molds.

John

[GLL]

Has anyone tried to order the long "old" style screws (without pins) lately? The new pins seem to end up on the floor once in awhile!

Jerry

[357maximum]

When it comes down to it....the setscrew/pin assembly requires less machining than the old style long machined through screw...IE <---> CHEAPER TO PRODUCE


Personally I have never had an issue with them, and even suggested this setup to the fine fella that makes my custom molds....so far he feels that the extra machining is worth it......I see no difference..they both get the job done. Much adoooooo about nothing IMHO.

[MT Gianni]

Has anyone tried to order the long "old" style screws (without pins) lately? The new pins seem to end up on the floor once in awhile!

Jerry

A magnet on a stick has a place in most shops. I have had no issues with the RCBS pins. Gianni

[Boomer Mikey]

RCBS has been using dowel pins and set screws for over 30 years.

Rust appears to be the evil one this time but one call to RCBS customer service will get you anything you need with a courteous "Thank You!" and a smile free of charge.

Boomer :Fire:

[MtGun44]

All my RCBS molds, old and new have setscrews and pins. The pins are quite a
loose fit in the holes, I have trouble understanding how they could stick. Mine
are at least .020-.030" smaller than the holes.

Actually, I had to drill out the remains of long screws that stripped off in a 4 cav
H&G. I replaced it with hard music wire pins and setscrews like in my RCBS
molds. I think the long, soft screws used in my particular H&G mold is a much
worse system in my experience.

Bill

[Lead melter]

Word of advice here...go to a genuine, honest-to-goodness hardware store...not Home Depot or the like, and get some extra set screws [don't ask me how I know this].

The pins are not hard to make in an emergency, but the screws are a bit more of a challenge. I have forgotten their actual size/thread pitch, but simply take the Allen wrench used to remove the screw and it's an easy fit up.

It also helps to take the mold to try it in, just in case.

Just my two cents worth.

[Shotgun Luckey]

Heck, I can't find a bullet I drop on the floor, what do I do if I drop a LITTLE pin!?!?!?!