Mold Lube Question

[lightman]

What are you Guys using for mold lube. I've read the stickies and most of them are 2 or 3 years old and some of the links no longer work. Is the Ester oil still about the best thing going? How about Bullshop? What about the guy on EBay that sells mold lube? Any info is appreciated.

[ikarus1]

I use a candle

[Reddirt62]

I bought a small tube from NOE

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[bosterr]

I use synthetic 2 stoke motor oil and it works great.

[wddodge]

I use synthetic 2 stoke motor oil and it works great.


I'll second this.....

Denny

[gpidaho]

I use Dielectric silicone grease (a little bit goes a long way) It doesn't migrate into the cavities like most lubes do. It is available at auto parts stores. Gp

[Harter66]

I have and use NOE .......it is rumored to be a synthetic 2 stroke oil .
The old bottle is green the newer bottle is blue ........ Pennzoil or Castrol and Valvoline maybe .....

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I use synthetic 2 stoke motor oil and it works great.


I'll second this.....

I'll Third this...

[Moonie]

Marine low ash synthetic 2 stroke oil.

[gwpercle]

Synthetic two-stroke oil, Super Tech from Walmart $1.79 and Permatex anti-seize lubricant.
I use both...the Permatex for both sides of the sprue plate because it stays on longer and the 2 stroke oil for pins and bolt.
I used bees wax for a long time but it leaves a baked on film that looks bad and is hard to scrub off . Permatex and synthetic 2-stroke seems the way to go.
Gary

[Soundguy]

Candle for the cavities, synthetic grease or oil for the hinge or sprue plate pivot

[John Boy]

Paraffin - burns clean and leaves no residue

[lightman]

Thanks for the replys everyone. I've always used a small dab of beeswax but it does not seem to last very long.

[HeavyMetal]

Anti-Seize stay put and doesn't run use that, smoke your mold only if you have a serious sticking problem!

lite burrs are the usual suspect here and can be dealt with with a pencil with an eraser on it. Then smoke if needed.

HM

[1_Ogre]

I have a quart of AMZOIL automatic transmission fluid I've had for YEARS. Toothpic into the fluid, and the SMALL drop goes onto the sprue plate screw area. Lasts a long time and works good. Just be sure to use just a little bit so it does not migrate, I shake off most of what sticks to the toothpic because it sure don't take much

[Master Samwise]

thanks guys , I just found this thread and found it useful

[Master Samwise]

I've been using the anti-seize on the sprue plate and that pins. but I'll try out the synthetic now, too.

[Master Samwise]

I just got my hands on a 7/8 slug mold and it sticks badly. any suggestions?

[gwpercle]

I just got my hands on a 7/8 slug mold and it sticks badly. any suggestions?
If the slug sticks in the cavity, take a Q-Tip and run around the cavity edges to see if there are any burrs. The cotton will snag any rough edges and you can carefully remove them.
Coat the cold mould cavities with Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , I use the liquid and apply with a Q-Tip.
This acts as a mould release and helps get the cavities seasoned, once you have cast with it a few times , the metal get seasoned and the slugs will drop with no treatment. Lead doesn't stick to a surface treated with the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube and it doesn't cause wrinkled boolits.
Gary

[Jack Stanley]

Stihl two stroke oil ...... mostly because that's what I have on hand .

Jack

[Traffer]

I use Never Seez. It is like magic. I even used it on the hinge bolt of a Lee mold. After about a year I took it apart and the stuff was still there. It was a bit dryer but still worked perfectly. The stuff I have is the "regular" stuff that is good for 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. They make stuff for the nuclear energy people too that is (I think, good to 3600 degrees) That would be good if you were casting steel bullets.

[lightman]

Since I started this thread I have had the opportunity to cast and I tried both the synthetic 2 cycle oil and the pagg a/c oil. Both worked very well, much better than the beeswax that my buddy used on his mold. Thanks for the replys!

[GhostHawk]

Master Samwise I had the same issue, exactly. Couple of things I have learned that seem to help.

A warm that base up, use a ladle, pour lead over it, hotplate, whatever you can find that works. For me the faster that drive key base on the Lee 7/8ths warms up the faster it quits sticking.

B Myself and a few others have had very good luck using "Liquid Wrench Dry Lube" Mine is the small 4 oz bottle of liquid. I put one or 2 drops on a q-tip and work over the whole mold. I like to deburr first, then start with the cavity's, drive key, then start working over all the sides, sprue plate top and bottom.

I have noticed on the Lee slug mold that about 100 to 150 slugs and I may have to retreat just that base part. Everything else releases, but it likes to hang up on that drive key slot. I may need to spend more time with a bright light, magnifying glass and a bamboo skewer deburring.

Molds that used to be a real problem with 1 or more cavity's wanting to "hang" have boolits fly out.

The liquid evaporates quickly, so there is nothing to migrate, no wrinkles. But it does leave a surface film behind that lead does not seem to like to stick too.

That is what has worked for me, good luck.

[Soundguy]

B Myself and a few others have had very good luck using "Liquid Wrench Dry Lube" ...The liquid evaporates quickly, so there is nothing to migrate, no wrinkles. But it does leave a surface film behind that lead does not seem to like to stick too.

That is what has worked for me, good luck.

It should 'dry' quickly, it's isopropyl, propane, heptane, naptha, dimethyl benzene and aluminum oxide. All but the aluminum oxide will flash off. the propane presumably is the propellant, the rest being solvents.