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Ateam
05-02-2017, 06:12 PM
I am sure this has been hashed over ad-nausea-um, but better safe than sorry. I am going to order the parts for a pid for my lee 4-20. Here are the parts I have and am fairly sure they will work. Anyone see anything wrong with these choices? Missing anything?

PID, SSR, heat sink-


Probe-


Thankyou all.

Mike W1
05-02-2017, 10:27 PM
The only thing that bothers me is they don't specify which model the TA4 is. I know the TA4-SNR works fine for our purposes but there's another Model TA4 that isn't so hot. Unfortunately I didn't make note of that model at the time. Hopefully somebody will come on board and identify that particular model.

Handloader109
05-03-2017, 07:42 AM
Good price on that and US based seller. Much quicker than The guys in China I used. Controller looks fine,

HATCH
05-03-2017, 09:25 AM
You guys should read better


Package Content:

1 x temperature controller, model no.: TD4-SNR
1 x solid state relay,model no.: SSR-25DA.
1 x heat sink



The temp on the probe is 700C is just shy of 1300F which is almost twice the temp you need.

I would say your good to go.
To be honest you do not need to use the heatsink for your application.
Your not gonna go over 5 amps with your pot and that will not even heat up the SSR.
If you were running a Magma Pot which draws 13 amps @120 then I would maybe consider a heat sink but considering that I have build a couple dozen PID controlled units (both in control panels and stand alone) and haven't used a heat sink, i would say you will be just fine.

Ateam
05-03-2017, 02:07 PM
Thanks for all the replies, I think since I dont need a heatsink, I will go with this one, and the probe posted previously.


Slow mail from china, but the price is right.

frankenfab
05-03-2017, 03:05 PM
Thanks for all the replies, I think since I dont need a heatsink, I will go with this one, and the probe posted previously.



Slow mail from china, but the price is right.

The ad says it's located in New York. Good luck with your project!

Ateam
05-03-2017, 03:20 PM
So it is! Even better.

ikarus1
05-04-2017, 10:43 AM
4 inch probe is kinda short if you plan on mounting it above the pot.

Dragonheart
05-04-2017, 04:50 PM
Maybe I am stating the obvious, but I have found the documentation on most of these products lacking, so you need to know or know someone that can wire in and adjust the PID settings.

Ateam
05-04-2017, 08:03 PM
I went ahead and ordered it. Thanks for all the help. I will try to remember to update this thread when I get all the components.

ikarus1
05-05-2017, 05:44 AM
Maybe I am stating the obvious, but I have found the documentation on most of these products lacking, so you need to know or know someone that can wire in and adjust the PID settings.
Youtube

adam_mac84
05-06-2017, 09:34 PM
Yes, please update this thread with your build. I have read the long (sticky?) PID thread... some of the items are very old. This is good current information to add... I am not wiring savvy, but it does look doable. I look forward to seeing some pics!

Dragonheart
05-07-2017, 11:42 AM
Youtube

You are absolutely right, there are a ton of PID videos on YouTube, but assuming you know nothing about wiring in and setting a PID and I challenge you to find a YouTube video that will give you the information necessary to get your PID project up and running. Fact is you will spend hours on YouTube sifting through mostly BS to garnish a few bits of useful information. Getting information on the net is like getting information here, just because it is posted does not mean it's right.

Mike W1
05-07-2017, 12:52 PM
194983This, if it shows up on here, is the basic wiring of a PID. Obviously the terminal numbers have to be assigned for the unit you use but that isn't too hard to figure out. They're on the unit itself. Far as setting one up to run that isn't bad as it seems. Familiarize one's self with the buttons on the unit by playing with it a few times. Then it only amounts to setting the desired temperature and when it gets near that point engage the Autotune feature. It's not nearly as complicated as one would think. I haven't been too impressed with the videos I've seen either and have notes available on the 3 main PID units available if wanted along with my own peculiar lists of what I've observed.

Ateam
05-07-2017, 01:29 PM
Right, that is what this forum is all about. I know just about nothing about electronics/wiring but fully expect I can figure this out. And if i cant, I will just ask for help here. Thats why we all love castboolits.

popper
05-07-2017, 01:39 PM
To be honest you do not need to use the heatsink for your application. Incorrect!!! And you need HS grease between the SSR & HS. You MUST keep the SSR components under 150F. Failure rate increases above that temp. If you live where ambient is above 10F, not much leeway. Don't believe me? Ask the commercial manufacturers that tried to incorporate PID into their pots.

HATCH
05-07-2017, 03:13 PM
I have installed thousands of SSRs in the HVAC industry. None were on heatsinks.
Yes they were screwed down to metal subpanels so you can call that a heat sink if you want but NONE had heatsink grease under them.

My master caster automation panel has a 40 amp rated SSR. The pot pulls around 8.5 amps and the SSR hasn't gotten any hotter then any of the other components that are in the panel.

Yes if you are running a SSR at 80% or better of max value then I would strongly suggest heatsink grease and a heatsink.
But for most of our applications the SSRs we are using are only being pushed at less then 40% of their rates value.



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centershot
05-07-2017, 04:09 PM
Anyone who wants a good PID without the sourcing headaches should contact OBIII. I bought one of his kits (Mypin TA-4 controller), it came with EVERYTHING I needed, including a housing, and an instruction sheet. It took me about 6 hours to build it, IIRC. Good unit! Thanks OBIII!

popper
05-07-2017, 05:05 PM
https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/ssclass6relays.pdf
Need to derate above 30C and 1/2 value above 55C yea, they work but reliability is s**t. not the load that causes but the switching time.

Dragonheart
05-07-2017, 05:26 PM
I appreciate the offer of help, but I just completed retrofitting a 220V 30" kitchen wall oven for powder coating using an Inkbird PID, so I am well aware what's on YouTube.
It didn't help when the YouTube Inkbird produced video shows you how to wire in a thermocouple and it's wrong. I have to say an electrical engineer with 20 years experience spotted my problem right away, but for someone's first try at a PID one would think the manufacturer would have produced correct information. After the correction the rest was fairly easy for me to figure out. So if anyone is going to purchase an Inkbird PID package off Amazon, my PID controlled PC oven is operating great. I will be happy to save anyone a lot of time in wiring and setting this PID and you won't have to listen to obnoxious music, long-winded motormouths or look at the goofy individuals on YouTube.
As far as a heatsink with the SSR, I used one with thermal paste and think the few extra bucks spent is good insurance as my SSR stabilizes at 92F. I will check it again when we get into our 100 degree summer.

HATCH
05-07-2017, 05:43 PM
So at 140 f ambient a 25amp SSR is derated to 15 amps.
That is twice the amount of amps that the 110v lee 4-20 uses.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/08e221e7c34c5c19129c65a15881d972.jpg

Great work on the oven.



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