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eodcoduto
04-29-2017, 08:30 PM
Hello gentlemen, I have been registered for a while and I usually find the answers to my questions with the search but now I can't. I have a Miroku 1886 takedown in 45-70 with the 26" barrel. I changed out the hammer and trigger for the Browning setup since the original owner took out the tang safety but he never made the full swap. I did the swap about 5 months ago and finally took it out shooting yesterday, (don't judge me). Out of eight shells, only two fired. The other six had decent primer strikes but didn't fire and I tried to refire each shell 3 times. I was shooting Federal Power Shok 300g. I didn't cut any springs down so any advice on this is greatly appreciated!

NSB
04-30-2017, 09:16 AM
I think there are some "how to" stickey's on this subject on this site somewhere. I remember there were lots of pics and explanations. You can probably find them if you do a search. Maybe another member can provide a link. I had mine done by Turnbull and it never misfired (actually, only ever had a couple of misfires before having it done....but that was a couple too many). Note: I don't see where you mention taking out the wishbone spring or cutting an arm off of it. IIRC, that was the biggest cause of weak hits to begin with.

missionary5155
04-30-2017, 06:09 PM
Greetings
We have completed 3 Miroku "rebounding hammer" fixes. Each eliminated light hammer strikes. Two model 86's and a model 95. No regrets.
In this Levergun forum at the top area is a sticky labeled "Fieldstripping the Win./ Miroku 1886 " That will get the rear stock off and you will be able to see the offending left half of the hammer spring strut. A cut off jewlers file makes short work right on the rifle. Just remove the rear stock .
Mike in Peru

eodcoduto
05-01-2017, 03:32 PM
Thanks, and I should have been more clear. I did the rebounding hammer fix when I put in the Browning set up. The strut doesn't touch the hammer so I am at a loss.

NSB
05-01-2017, 03:44 PM
eodcudoto, after reading your post again something caught my attention. You said that the misfires had decent primer strikes. If you truly had decent primer strikes and the primers didn't go off, the primers are the culprit. If they're being struck hard enough to leave a good indentation and don't fire, there lies your problem. Do you have some other ammo to try? It's not common to get bad primers, but it's not unheard of either. Over the last fifty+ years of shooting I've had it happen a few times with shotshell primers. I've seen other shooters have problems with primers like you describe, but not very often. You might save yourself a lot of searching and head scratching if you try some different ammo and it works OK. Good luck.

376Steyr
05-01-2017, 04:29 PM
Headspace problem maybe? Check the thickness of the rims on your Federal factory ammo and compare to another brand. Maybe the firing pin is just shoving the cartridge forward in the chamber.

Greg S
05-01-2017, 06:33 PM
There are two struts that contact the hammer on the new mirokou. After cutting g the intermediate strut, the hammer after firing shold be restin on the firing pin/back of bolt. Check the firearm for some type of hammer block/firing pin safety.

I have modder 3 winouko 1892s and was able to trim 3-4 coils off the mainspring and still get reliable primer strikes on magnumerous primers.

mdhillbilly1
05-03-2017, 09:47 AM
Hello gentlemen, I have been registered for a while and I usually find the answers to my questions with the search but now I can't. I have a Miroku 1886 takedown in 45-70 with the 26" barrel. I changed out the hammer and trigger for the Browning setup since the original owner took out the tang safety but he never made the full swap. I did the swap about 5 months ago and finally took it out shooting yesterday, (don't judge me). Out of eight shells, only two fired. The other six had decent primer strikes but didn't fire and I tried to refire each shell 3 times. I was shooting Federal Power Shok 300g. I didn't cut any springs down so any advice on this is greatly appreciated!
I would check the brand of the shells that fired over the ones that did not fired. I never seen any mention of if you reloaded them or if they are factory loads.

I would open the shells that did not fire with the proper tool. Please wear the Proper Eye and Hearing Protection. I wear Safety Glasses and a Full Face Shield. I use Ear Plugs and Ear Muffs to protect your hearing. I would strongly suggest to advise you children and spouse of what you are doing before you do it. I prefer personally to do mine with my Single Stage Press with the Proper Sized Tool to remove the bullet. The reason to do it this way is to save the powder to confirm if it had been burned or not. The powder could be bad also or damp. The primers could also been bad. If you determine the primers are bad I would notify the company that you have gotten a large rate of primers not going off using your numbers to get an average percentage.

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

KCSO
05-03-2017, 10:28 AM
No really! Call this rebounding hammer syndrome and google the fixes we have posted here. I get these all the time and the light strikes really raise havoc with black powder loads.

eodcoduto
06-08-2017, 11:47 PM
Sorry for the slow response but I've been in the field. For an update, I've tried the hornady leverlution, federal, and some of my reloads with CCI primers. Nothing has functioned since I swapped in the Browning set up, so I am going to go back to the original trigger and find a tang safety, the previous owner took it out, and go from there. I had already conducted the rebounding hammer fix, the strut spring is stock so I hate to say it but I give up on this one.

eodcoduto
06-09-2017, 12:46 AM
Just got the original trigger and hammer in, and everything works like it should. I've read some posts that the Browning hammers are a little lighter and can cause issues, but it looks like the contact point on the Browning is lower so there might be less leverage coming from the strut? Oh well, I just have to carry it on an empty chamber until I can find the safety parts.

pietro
06-09-2017, 10:36 AM
Just got the original trigger and hammer in, and everything works like it should.




In that case, the Browning conversion parts are the culprits.

I would suggest re-installing the Browning parts, adding a Browning 1-piece firing pin to your rifle, AND adding a shim on the mainspring strut at the rear end of the mainspring - both of which should resolve the ignition issues.


.

eodcoduto
06-10-2017, 10:34 AM
Thanks for the input, I'll try the firing pin as well.

johnhenry57
06-12-2017, 08:47 PM
Jeez, all that work and frustration for a rifle that could have been sent to Turnbull like NSB said. I just got mine back from Turnbull also and feel it was the best money I ever spent. No more tang safety, no more misfires.197439

Chill Wills
06-13-2017, 02:46 PM
Jeez, all that work and frustration for a rifle that could have been sent to Turnbull like NSB said. I just got mine back from Turnbull also and feel it was the best money I ever spent. No more tang safety, no more misfires.

Nice color! If you don't mind, tell us how much for ALL the work you had done. A trip to Turnbull would be nice.

NSB
06-13-2017, 05:03 PM
johnhenry, very nice looking gun. Turnbull does a fantastic job. How's it shoot?