Lyman 454424 problem

[Bman]

I have not had this mould long and bought it used in very good condition. The problem I am having is the front driving band and sometimes the rear one will get broken or torn as the boolit leaves the mould. This happens at several casting temps. About the only time I don't have this problem is when the mould is too cool to give good boolits. I've tried inverting the mould after cutting the sprue and a couple of other stupid things, like trying to hold my mouth right. Dad said it worked for fishing soo,,,,

Any ideas guys or is this a unique problem? I hope it is simply my casting technique or something simple to fix. I love these bullets but did have some odd accuracy tweaks that I now think are related to this. BTW it's an older mould but has the rounded grease groove and casts somehwere north of 260 gr. in WW.

TIA

Brian

[StarMetal]

I only get that problem in various moulds when I'm cast too fast. Although the bullet looks solid it is very very fragile yet because it's soft. Just to be safe you might want to check that where the bullet is sticking does not have a burr. Sometimes I will give my mould a rap up from the bottom with my sprue cutter rapping wood while holding the handles loosely, but not opening the mould yet. Like jarring it some, then opening the mould and knock out the bullet in my usual manner if it doesn't fall free.

Joe

[45 2.1]

Molds too hot, try 700 degrees and cast slow. Sprue should take 4 to 5 seconds to solid up.

[Bent Ramrod]

Starmetal's advice on holding the handles loosely and rapping works well. After cutting the sprue, I hold the handles loosely with one finger against the inside of one handle, just enough to keep slight opening pressure on it, while tapping lightly on the hinge. A two-cavity .40 cal with the cavities very close together and lots of tiny, deep grease grooves would formerly tear the bands half off the bullets on opening, but with this technique, they come out fine.

[Buckshot]

............As 45 2.1 suggested, the mould is probably too hot, assuming you've never had a problem with the alloy you're using. Otherwise it can be an indicator of a low or non existant tin content and a high antimony level. Ie: the alloy is very brittle and can be somewhat crumbly.

..............Buckshot

[Bman]

Thanks guys! I believe what is happening is that having moved to a bottom pour pot from ladel dipping once my mould is up to temp I have my melt too hot. I don't yet have a thermometer but I guess I just need to crank way back on the heat control? Lee 10 lb pot so the heat settings have nothing to do with a specific temperature. I have been cranking it up to 9 to melt then back to about 7.

My sprues do take about 5 seconds to solidify but if the mold is too hot then...
My alloy is strait WW this time with about 2' of 50-50 lead tin solder added per pot full. Looking like yet another learning curve to get through.

[snowtigger]

I cast wheelweights and add 1/2 pound of 95/5 (95% tin/5% antimony)solder in my 20lb Lee pot. I cast between 625 and 675 degrees, according to my RCBS thermometer. With the mold up to temperature, this seems to cast good bullets, with no release problems.
I get the solder at my local plumbing supply house.

[Springfield]

I use a temp guage and 7 on a LEE can still get over 800 deg. if you are casting slow. Buy a guage and stop shooting in the dark as to temp.