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View Full Version : New molds and casting first bullets



shafer44
04-26-2017, 12:45 PM
I hope this is the right place in the forums for my comments.
I just got a 45-70 1874 Sharps replica and first bought some cast and lubricated bullets. These were $0.24 each, so that doesn't make for fun shooting for me, so I bought a couple of molds. I am not a novice, nor an expert at casting. I had H&G molds, matching 4 cavity that I cast for bulleye shooting years ago and several other molds over the years. Most of the time, they started producing good bullets pretty quickly. I have a good supply of Lyman #2 ingots that I use.
Well, I got 2 Lee molds, one a 340gr FN .457 and the other a 450gr .457 FN. I cleaned the molds with brake cleaner, finished with alcohol and a toothbrush and wiped them with a lint free cloth making sure there was no oil or any debris on the cavities. I turned on my old Lyman mold master XX that I have had since 1980 (not much use on it, as I got out of casting for 20 yrs). and checked it for 30 minutes until it was up to temp. I checked with my Lyman thermometer and it was in the Lyman #2 range, almost to the beginning of WW. I casted for 2 hours and NEVER got a bullet that I would keep. I kept turning up the temp, as I was getting wrinkled bullets that was not filling out the grease bands either. I know I have aged a bit since last casting a lot, but some things, we think we don't forget. I then tried smoking the molds with a lighter and still no good bullets. I gave up for the day. When the molds cooled down, I brought them in the house, cleaned them again and this time smoked both with a candle. The next day, yesterday, I went back out to the garage, turned on the furnace, cranked it up more and waited until the pot was up to temp. It was probably 740 degrees or so. I started casting and actually, the first bullets out of each mold was not bad. The molds finally got hot and I cast for about 1 hour or so and got lots of good bullets and they finally were a little frosty. I could not get a frosty bullet the day before. I was probably at 640 the day before and 100 deg higher the next day and success. I know some beginners that would have quit and gone back in the house to search for "cheap" cast bullets to buy. I am just saying that sometimes things change, and good bullets are going to be cast sooner or later. I have not cast bullets that were this big before and I think that having to fill out the molds that are long like these made a big difference than casting a .452 200 swc for my 45acp.

Something that I noted also, was that I checked the thermometer with a pot of boiling water after the first day of bad bullets and it was right on 212 degrees or close enough. The scale on the Lyman therm, has WW going out to 700 degrees and of course the Lyman #2 max scale is less than that. You cannot always go by what the scale says, it worked many years ago, but for whatever reason, now it did not. You do need to go by temp, though and without a thermometer, you are guessing until you get it right. Next casting session, I will crank the temp down a little to get out of the frosty range, but that can be somewhat controlled with giving the molds a little more time to cool between pours.

sorry for rambling, but I thought some others might see that it is not always the newbies that has problems.

Yodogsandman
04-26-2017, 02:02 PM
Your "ramblings" seem like a good tutorial for newbies to follow if they also encounter problems. Please continue.

gwpercle
04-26-2017, 02:05 PM
Ladle / pressure casting or bottom pour ? I'm a ladle caster myself .
The new Lee moulds have a lot of machining oil deep in the pores , the heat brings it to the surface. The 3 rd casting session usually has things broke in.
I started soaking the blocks in acetone to draw out the oils.
You doing fine , the moulds will be up to snuff soon. Be aware of the left handed screws they use now...that can cause confusion.
Glad to have you back in the hobby,
Gary

shafer44
04-26-2017, 04:24 PM
gwpercle, thanks for the left handed screw note. One of the sprue plates was too tight, so I tried to loosen the screw....right handed way...to no avail, I finally gave up and coated the sprue plate with pencil lead and it seemed to work ok. I did not even look at the picture on the front page of the mold instructions, which has a bold NEW...blah, blah....LEFT handed screw notation. I should have looked.

Strtspdlx
04-27-2017, 10:33 AM
It may be good to double check your thermometer to make sure it isn't giving you a false Temp reading. Boiling water is the Prefered method I believe. I used to cast without a thermometer. It was get the lead to show a little tin oxide on top and back it off a little on the thermal switch and coat the melt with sawdust to help minimize oxidation. Everything else as far as bullet appearance was controlled with casting speed.

pjames32
04-27-2017, 02:56 PM
When I switched to aluminum molds (NOE) I found they needed 3 heat cycles (for me) to be able to cast good bullets. I also added a hot plate to get my mold up to temp.

44man
04-27-2017, 03:24 PM
I am a ladle caster and never got that hole in the bottom to work.
I have an old Lyman pot that cycled so slow lead froze in the pot, Thermostats never worked right. I Bought a Lee and never have a problem.

slk
04-27-2017, 04:13 PM
I have been using the el-cheapo Lyman pot that does not have any controls at all on it. It just heats up to whatever temp. Honestly I have never had any issues with it. I cast WW and Lyman#2. I don't know if I am just lucky or not. I too cast for my 45-70 Sharps. Those huge 500 gn boolits are fun to shoot. I have always used Lyman molds. I clean them with alcohol first then give them a shot of brake cleaner and smoke them with an acetylene torch. That will smoke them really good.

Steve

lightman
04-28-2017, 10:51 AM
When I get a new mold I just give it a shot of brake cleaner and a good scrubbing with a tooth brush. Warm it up and start casting. I've never smoked one. All of my molds are iron. Mostly RCBS, a few Lymans and lately a few H&G's. I don't own an aluminum mold yet.

Whitespider
04-29-2017, 06:31 AM
My "pot" is an old cast iron sauce pan that I set on the electric burner of an old kitchen range.
I just turn the dial on the range to "High" and wait for the alloy to melt.
I use one of the other burners set to "Medium" to pre-heat the mold.
I have no idea what temperature anything is... I've never bothered with a thermometer.
*

slk
04-29-2017, 08:46 AM
My "pot" is an old cast iron sauce pan that I set on the electric burner of an old kitchen range.
I just turn the dial on the range to "High" and wait for the alloy to melt.
I use one of the other burners set to "Medium" to pre-heat the mold.
I have no idea what temperature anything is... I've never bothered with a thermometer.
*

You sound like me. I use to use a Coleman stove with an old cast iron pot. It worked well for years. I have never used a thermometer either. I now use the Lyman cast iron pot that has the element down in it. Very simple pot and is easy to use. I usually lay the mold right on the top of that pot while it is melting the lead.

Steve

Steve