Vertical lines in boolets from mold?

[Utah Shooter]

So I am curious if or how bad this will effect accuracy? I keep looking and looking but not sure what to call this. Will this effect accuracy? I think after I powder coat they will not be visible anymore but I would hate to coat 600 of these and find out they will not work. Part of me also thinks I am overthinking this.

Thank you for putting up with me.

[Utah Shooter]

Sorry forgot to add a picturehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/1d8eb03e7a7e0b8f801fabedd49b90c4.jpg

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[country gent]

those should be okay. What is the dia they cast at with your alloy. If you really want to try and remove it you might be able to adjust the alighnment pins a little to make it better. Or a light lapping will help these a lot if there is "room" for it. Coat a small batch and shoot them to see how they perform before doing the hole batch. Ill be surprised if that shows thru the coating though.

[Edward]

I"m guessing you are not sizing as I look at your lines still there .If as cast it looks like your mold is not closing tightly /obstruction or not enough pressure but I do not think it makes any difference as to accuracy that"s a fitment issue .If you slugged the barrel what is your finished boolit size at after PC ing?

[Utah Shooter]

I"m guessing you are not sizing as I look at your lines still there .If as cast it looks like your mold is not closing tightly /obstruction or not enough pressure but I do not think it makes any difference as to accuracy that"s a fitment issue .If you slugged the barrel what is your finished boolit size at after PC ing?
No not sized yet. After powder coating it should be a .358 diameter and is currently at .360 diameter.

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[runfiverun]

Joe:
see what country gent wrote.

as you use the mold a bit more things should settle in and get better [remember to lube those alignment pins]

your casting has gotten a lot better.

[vernm]

Joe

As stated that is the mould parting line where the two halves of the mould come together. Completely normal. You might try making sure you have firm pressure on the handles (not excessive) to hold the mould halves tightly together. You could also try reducing your lead temp 25 degrees or so.

On a side note, it looks like you may be pulling lead from the bottom of the bullet when you cut the sprue. Try to make sure the sprue is completely dull before you cut the sprue. Reducing the lead temp and, if using a bottom pour pot, moving the mould away from the pot after pouring will make the sprue harden faster.

Good luck on your casting.

Vern

[Utah Shooter]

those should be okay. What is the dia they cast at with your alloy. If you really want to try and remove it you might be able to adjust the alighnment pins a little to make it better. Or a light lapping will help these a lot if there is "room" for it. Coat a small batch and shoot them to see how they perform before doing the hole batch. Ill be surprised if that shows thru the coating though.

They are at .360-.361 and will get to .358. I just coated some and do not see the line after.


Joe:
see what country gent wrote.

as you use the mold a bit more things should settle in and get better [remember to lube those alignment pins]

your casting has gotten a lot better.

Thank you. It is only due to the members here being so willing to help. I really appreciate it.


Joe

As stated that is the mould parting line where the two halves of the mould come together. Completely normal. You might try making sure you have firm pressure on the handles (not excessive) to hold the mould halves tightly together. You could also try reducing your lead temp 25 degrees or so.

On a side note, it looks like you may be pulling lead from the bottom of the bullet when you cut the sprue. Try to make sure the sprue is completely dull before you cut the sprue. Reducing the lead temp and, if using a bottom pour pot, moving the mould away from the pot after pouring will make the sprue harden faster.

Good luck on your casting.

Vern

Yup been accused of cutting too early before. Trying not to. I feel like I may get carpel tunnel with my grip. :p I was thinking it was not hot enough so I increased it 50 degrees or so and results did not change. I am beginning to think my thermometer may be off. Using a Lee 20 lb bottom pour. I am moving it away from the bottom of the pot after the pour.

Also not mentioned I have 1 out of 5 that the base is not filling out properly. It is either the closest to me or exactly in the middle. For another day perhaps.

[runfiverun]

try filling from back to front.
I see a big difference in mold temp just from the front cavity getting poured first then sitting under the pot while the back one is last and is out in the air more.
switching up the cadence to keep the alloy in the back cavity longer will generally help that out.

[Utah Shooter]

Interesting. The issue though is my mold does not fit completely under the lee pot. I actually start with the back but it does not get completely under the spout.

[runfiverun]

you might could set that back cavity up on the pot edge to soak up a little more heat or pour a big sprue puddle over it.
just a bit more heat on that one cavity could really help.

[Cowboy_Dan]

Regarding trouble getting the mould under the pot, try turning the pot 90°. I recently bought an H&G 10 cavity from an esate sale (more like stole it, it was marked $25 and 50% off for being the last day). I haven't cast with it yet, but my ladle ain't gonna hold that much lead. Won't fit under the Lee normally, but going under the side seems to work in dry-fit settings.

[Utah Shooter]

Interesting. I have been debating getting one of the lyman 25 pots but not sure how it works with none of my molds being lyman. I thought this one not fitting was a sign to purchase one but I bet I can turn it sideways. Thanks I will check tomorrow.

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