truckjohn
07-13-2008, 08:33 PM
So...
What is the secret to getting hollow point nose punches to release?
On my CH4D 45 ACP die set... I have HP and Flat nose ejector punches.
The FP nose ejects just fine, as would be expected.
The HP nose punch grabs the bullet like no one's business. Pliers do a fine job of breaking the punch death grip, but don't do much for the bullet's dimensions and finish.
After several hours of draw polishing, I couldn't get there.... so I decided to experiment with a new nose punch.
I worked extra-hard to achieve my personal best ever surface finish on the steel. Big taper, concentric, no tool marks, etc.
Started out with a heavier taper than the CH4D punch. As you would predict, without any draw polishing, I had achieved a nearly perfect death grip on the bullet.
3 hours of polishing later, it was better, but was time to break out the Prussian Blue to see what was sticking.
Another hour of draw polishing and blue-ing later, and it ejects with an itty bitty drop of motor oil on the nose and a light "Snap" when you pull the ejector punch back up in the die to break it loose.
So... for any old hands, what is the trick to easy Hollow Point Nose punch release? I doubt commercial die makers could spare 4 hours of draw polishing and Prussian blue on a $40 nose punch.
Is this a case when you really need an itty-bitty toolpost grinder to straighten things out?
So how do the big boys do it? I am guessing that 1st off... those big name high volume nose punches (like Speer Gold Dots) have an optical polish on them. I would use a secondary ejector punch in the middle of the Hollow Point Nose. It would have to be an itty bitty thing -- like 1/16" diameter or such. It would be easy with some hydraulics or air poppets or something. Durability would be a question, though.
Either way, I have a small handful of 0.4525" 200g Swaged Grease Groove RNHP, that used to be Swaged Grease groove SWC's that used to be Home cast H&G 68's
Thanks for any suggestions you could offer.
John
What is the secret to getting hollow point nose punches to release?
On my CH4D 45 ACP die set... I have HP and Flat nose ejector punches.
The FP nose ejects just fine, as would be expected.
The HP nose punch grabs the bullet like no one's business. Pliers do a fine job of breaking the punch death grip, but don't do much for the bullet's dimensions and finish.
After several hours of draw polishing, I couldn't get there.... so I decided to experiment with a new nose punch.
I worked extra-hard to achieve my personal best ever surface finish on the steel. Big taper, concentric, no tool marks, etc.
Started out with a heavier taper than the CH4D punch. As you would predict, without any draw polishing, I had achieved a nearly perfect death grip on the bullet.
3 hours of polishing later, it was better, but was time to break out the Prussian Blue to see what was sticking.
Another hour of draw polishing and blue-ing later, and it ejects with an itty bitty drop of motor oil on the nose and a light "Snap" when you pull the ejector punch back up in the die to break it loose.
So... for any old hands, what is the trick to easy Hollow Point Nose punch release? I doubt commercial die makers could spare 4 hours of draw polishing and Prussian blue on a $40 nose punch.
Is this a case when you really need an itty-bitty toolpost grinder to straighten things out?
So how do the big boys do it? I am guessing that 1st off... those big name high volume nose punches (like Speer Gold Dots) have an optical polish on them. I would use a secondary ejector punch in the middle of the Hollow Point Nose. It would have to be an itty bitty thing -- like 1/16" diameter or such. It would be easy with some hydraulics or air poppets or something. Durability would be a question, though.
Either way, I have a small handful of 0.4525" 200g Swaged Grease Groove RNHP, that used to be Swaged Grease groove SWC's that used to be Home cast H&G 68's
Thanks for any suggestions you could offer.
John