Ruger Old Army

[ebner glocken]

Today I bought a ruger old army 7" ss NIB. Any of you have one of these? If so, how well should I expect it to shoot? I have heard that you can stuff one of these things full of 4Fg and they handle it well. Any truth to that? What shoots best for you?

Ebner

[R.M.]

Well, you're close. They shoot like Jack the Bear. They're stout, no doubt about it, but stay away from the 4f. use 3f, and all you want, but 4f is just too much.
You're going to enjoy it. They're about as good a shooting revolver as you can find, modern or otherwise.

[pietro]

I regularly shoot 35grs of Pyrodex "P", with a CCI #11 cap using a .457" lead RB with an overlay of Crisco for lubrication and chainfire prevention, in my stainless ROA.

Then....... ;) ........., I install my R&D .45 Colt conversion cylinder for a change of pace ! :drinks:

[Maven]

Ebner, I have one of those, but I wouldn't think of loading it with FFFFg. As has already been stated, Pyro. P or FFFg, as much as the cylinder will hold is fine. Btw, mine seems to be more accurate with a heavier charge of Pyro. P and is accurate enough to group 5 into 1" from a rest @ 25 yds. with the open sights.

[725]

ebner glocken,
Please get a manual from Ruger and load per the book. You stuff that thing full of 4F and it may be the last time it fires. Anybody else on your firing line might be at risk as well.
725

[DLCTEX]

I have only used Pyrodex P in mine, behind RB, 230 gr, and 255 gr. boolits. It is the most accurate pistol I have ever fired, with the exeption possibly of a Ruger 22 with bull barrel. DALE

[shotguneddy]

You've purchased the "Cadillac" of cap and ball revolvers! Congratulations! I shoot a 35 gr load of fffg under a felt wad and a .457 round ball with excellent results! I've had my stainless version for 12 years now. Many other guns have come and gone, but I could never part with my Old Army!

[twidget]

Quotes from the Old Army instruction manual:

"Black Powder is usually classified by powder grain size with "Fg" being the largest granulation and "FFFFg" being the smallest granulation normally available. Any granulation within these gradations could be used in the "Old Army"; normally, however, "FFFg" is the preferred grain size."

"It is safe to use as much Black Powder as the chamber will hold, leaving room for the bullet. This maximum loading is not usually the most accurate loading, however."

My normal load is 30 grains of FFg. It is pleasant to shoot and is accurate. Half the fun of these revolvers is the experimentation to find the best load. I've tried FFFg but couldn't tell any difference, so I stick to FFg because it's what my other BP guns use.

[Dixie Slugs]

Interesting Indeed...However, having tried about all grades, makes, etc of blackpowder and the rest of the near-blackpowder...I have settled on Black Mag 3 for all my ML's.
We are testing Black Mag 3 in a pre-warnig Ruger Old Army. We are in the fourth fired cylinder (one week apart) with absoluely no rust! We examine it twice a day for any rust. I have not been able to do that with any other powder. Our standard load is 35 gr (by volume) of Black Mag 3 - .457 RB - CCI #11 Mag caps.....with an Oxyoke under the ball and Bore Butter on top of the ball.
I will always pay a little more per shot for that kind of performance!
Regards, James

[WickedGoodOutdoors]

What do you use to measuer powder for Fast reloads in a BP Revolver.


Im trying to think of something like a dipper made from an old .9mm, .45 brass that would be quick & accurate/consistant.

then in the field I would want to have some thing premeasured and handy along the lines of the old wooden bandollies that matchlock shooters used. maybe a brass shell with a cork stopper in the end?


any ideas?

[10-x]

Old timers used the tip of a horn,(2"-3" long) bored out to the correct volume and hung it off the powder horn. Have one old possibles bag with a .44-40 brass case, primer removed then filled with lead with a wire loop. Also 1/2" copper pipe pinched off and cut to size.
Whatever works.:drinks:

[northmn]

The Lyman Black Powder manual lists 4f loads in the 36 and 44 loads. There is not enough difference ebetween it and 3f to matter and in some cases 3f gives higher velocities. I really doubt you could blow a Ruger with 4f but there is no advantage to it and no reason to use it. People say how good of luck they have had with substitutes. Mostly I ahve seen them hangfire more and give poor results compared to black. They now sell "magnum" caps that may set the subs off a little better. Each to his own.

Northmn

[Dixie Slugs]

We use the old time flasks with a spout designed to throw the measured load. Since we now can get Black Mag 3....we use a spout set for 35 grs.
For our ML rifles, we use small glass bootke with corks in them.
Regards, James

[Old Ironsights]

I liked BlackMag 3 when I had some. Are they going to distribute it again, or is still only available down there?

As for "speed Loading"the ROA - go buy some rolling papers and learn how to "roll your own" paper cartridges.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Paper%20Cartridge/cartridge0.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Paper%20Cartridge/cartridge9.jpg

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Paper%20Cartridge/

[Dixie Slugs]

Dixie has been talking to them, off and on, for some time. They are getting their production up and you will start seeing it at some of the big chains. We just bought a shipment of it aimed at loading 2 1/2" loads for the fine British guns with Damascus barrels.
Of course, we use it in all our ML's. We have been testing in a blued Old Army for a month now...fired a cylinder and no cleaning.....fired another cylinder a week later. no cleaning.....we are now on the fourth cylinder and no rust or corrosion. Try that wih anything else!
I like the "talior-mades". We also have been using the small plastic tube CVA makes to slide down over the caps onto the nipples.
Regards, James

[725]

Once again, I stand corrected. If the book says so, go ahead and give it a whoorl. Good shooting, and let us know how it goes.
725

[Dixie Slugs]

725....stand corrected about what?....Oh. I see what it was about FFFFg. Interesting! There has been some talk about tests that were done on Old Srmy's with smokeless powder also. I for one, have never used anthing but FFFg in black though. I also see when some fellows have bored the cylinder deeper to hold 5 more grains of powder...why?
Now for hangfires....have not had any....but replaced the nipples in all my ML's with the gold ones from Track of th Wolf Trecos or Ampcos?
They are very tough and have a small hole to concentrate the fire!
All in All...The Ruger Old Armys (had three) have served my well as backups guns while muzzleloader hunting. I do not Cowboy Shoot or play Civil War stuff.....I just what the all time best Cap and Ball revolver ever made.....and that's a Ruger Old Army...pure and simple!

[northmn]

Revolvers are a little better for use of substitute BP than traditional rifles due to the straight in ignition. I have only messed with pyrodex and 777 as I can get regular black powder. Some cliam regular BP is not as corrosive as pyrodex, etc. Another reason I use BP is that I just got an order of five pounds that cost me about $82 through Grafs. the price included the Hazmat fee. The last I looked at any subs they were priced at about $27 a pound. I don't care if you use less or not, the stuff costs more. Nitrated cartridges were standard use in the War between the States for revolvers, Sharps breech loaders and paper cartridges were carried by the troops in a cartridge box for the infantry since the Revolutionary war.

Northmn

[Dixie Slugs]

Old Ironsight....Does the paper cover the ball/bullet in your "tailor-mades"?
If so, are you using the normal .457" balls/bullets?
Regards, James

[Old Ironsights]

Old Ironsight....Does the paper cover the ball/bullet in your "tailor-mades"?
If so, are you using the normal .457" balls/bullets?
Regards, James

Yep to both. It "trims" itself when the ball gets swaged into the bore. Just brush off the excess along with the lead ring.

The whole process is potographed at the link I gave below the pics.

The key is using good Ciggarette Rolling Papers. They don't have to be nitrated (more than they are) and are thin enough that a regular cap burns through the paper nicely.

What is more problematic is getting the right size papers. Long Extra-wides are hard to find anywhere but Head Shops... where they are known as "blunts"... :roll:

Here's another method: Roll/seal the papers around a mandrel first, then load from the top:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Paper%20Cartridge/cartouche_papier_IMG_2291_cut_800.jpg

[Dixie Slugs]

Excellent Thread! I went and looked at the entire process! Excellent How-To-Post......we see so few anywhere today. Thanks!
Regards, James

[Old Ironsights]

Excellent Thread! I went and looked at the entire process! Excellent How-To-Post......we see so few anywhere today. Thanks!
Regards, James

I wish I could say I was responsible, but IIRC I copied the lot from a post by a Frenchman on the Muzzleloading Forum and have archived it ever since.

[Dixie Slugs]

I tried a post to get information on cartridge cylinders for the Ruger Old Army...but got no response??????????
Regards, James

[Old Ironsights]

I tried a post to get information on cartridge cylinders for the Ruger Old Army...but got no response??????????
Regards, James

I must have missed it.

I had a Kirst Cartridge Converter for mine. WAAAY more accurate than with RB and slightly better than 200gr REAL.

The R&D is also good, but is "more mechanical" than the kirst.

IMO THe Kirst is a GREAT option for any ROA owner. Really, a "must have".

[DLCTEX]

Does either the Kirst or the R&D converter permit loading without removing the cylinder? Can't picture that it would work. DALE

[Old Ironsights]

IIRC Kirst was working on a loading gate version, but it really wasn't a bother to pop the cylinder out, dump the brass & reload. Heck, lots of guys in C&B era carried preloaded cylinders in "speedloader pouches" to do essentially the same thing.

The point of the Conversion Cylinder isn't to gain speed, it's to gain Cartridge.

In Indiana, I can't hunt deer with a C&B ROA - no matter how hot t's stuffed - but I CAN hunt deer with a "Cartridge" ROA - no matter how wimpy the CAS loads.

Go figure.

[Dixie Slugs]

Old Ironsight....Excellent! What diameter bullet is best in the cartridge cylinder? What mold/weight would you suggest? Can Factory ammo be shot in the cylinder? Thanks!
Regards, James

[Old Ironsights]

Old Ironsight....Excellent! What diameter bullet is best in the cartridge cylinder? What mold/weight would you suggest? Can Factory ammo be shot in the cylinder? Thanks!
Regards, James

Never loaded/cast for the cartridges, so I can't say. Factory ammo (SAAMI "don't blow up my antique" pressures...) is fine and shoots fine. Do NOT use +P... not because it's unsafe - but because it would probably lead to hell and gone in the RB bores.

Both Kirst & R&D say "Cowboy Ammo Only", in their warning labels, but my thought there is that since the bores are made for Lead Round Ball and not Jacketed ammo, saying "cowboy ammo" is the easiest way to get the n00b to shoot lead only.

I can't imagine that the steel used in those cylinders is rated below SAAMI spec for OEM .45 Colt.

[Dixie Slugs]

I been thinking about one for some time. If I got one, I would use cast bullets and Black Mag 3. I was wondering if anyone had even sluggged the barrel to see what size cast would have to be. I woulld also think a short bullet would fit better?
Antway, thanks for all the info!
Regards, James

[garandsrus]

Dixie,

I have a ROA with a 45 Colt conversion cylinder. I use the Lee 452-200-RF, which is available in a 6 cavity. The boolit fits the cylinder with no problem. Accuracy at 25 yds is very good. I have only tried Unique powder at 6, 7, and 8 grains.

I bought one of the Keith GB molds for 45 Colt but the boolit is too long to fit the cylinder, which was a surprise to me. I guess I will need to get anther 45 Colt some day...

John

[Dixie Slugs]

I bought a double Lee Conical mold for the ROA...not much of a mold compared to Dixie's production molds though. The bullet is .510" long and weighs about 230 grs. I have found that a conical will shot in a ball twist if the length is close to the diameter. When loaded over the same 35 grs of Black Mag 3, that the round ball was, it feels stronger and has a little more recoil. The 6 shot groups ran a little over 2" at 30 yards...but a little higher that RB's.
Although I think I would like the cartridge cylinder, I really can't justify one. In a backup situation with a hog....if I have not finished it withh six shots, it's not going to matter how long it takes to reload....balls or cartridge. There would be an advantage of having slightly harder conicals for added penetration though.
I like the idea of the paper cartridges though. I did mold a few conicals at a mix of 1 to 10 ..tin/lead conicals but have not tried to load them.
Thank you all for your kind answers!
Regards, James

[DLCTEX]

IIRC an article I read some time ago quoted someone from Ruger as saying the ROA was made from the same steel as the 44 mag. He also told that they tested it when it was being developed by filling the chambers with Red Dot and seating a ball. It held together when fired. I don't think you will have any problem with 4f. DALE PS: Gotta try those paper cartridges, but we don't have head shops anywhere close. I'm going to be in Abilene today, maybe I can find one.

[Typecaster]

Now I'm missing my ROA even more...I should never have sold it.

Richard, with 20/20 hindsight

[Old Ironsights]

To: All Message #: 5492
From: Ed Harris Submitted: 09 Aug 93 17:25:00
Subject: Best Loads for the Ruger Status: Public
Received: No Group: FIREARMS (19)

RE: Best Loads for the Ruger Old Army
Best Loads for the Ruger Old Army

By C.E. Harris

Round balls are still the best choice for general use in either
light or heavy loads. They are easy to cast, accurate, and
effective for small game. A round ball at higher velocity is a
better killer and more accurate than the conicals. I see no good
reason to use the conical bullets at all in cap & ball revolvers.
There are other, better options, if you want a heavier bullet than
a ball.

The Lee 200-gr. REAL is the best choice for a wadcutter bullet in
most .44 cap & ball revolvers. Its tapered dimensions are
adaptable to a variety of chamber diameters and it is easy to load.
A charge of 20-25 grs. bulk measure of FFFg or Pyrodex P, using a
.38 Special or .357 case for a measure approximates the ballistics
of .45 ACP wadcutter ammunition. In the Ruger Old Army or Colt
Walker replicas, 30-35 grs. bulk measure of black powder or
Pyrodex, using a .44 Special or .44 Magnum case for a measure fills
the chambers, leaving enough room to seat the bullet properly over
a wad. This load produces 2 to 2-1/2" groups at 25 yards, about
900 f.p.s. and 360 ft.-lbs. of energy.

The 250-gr. REAL bullet can be used with good effect in the Ruger
Old Army and Colt Walker replicas. It is both highly accurate and
authoritative when the chambers are filled to capacity with 30 grs.
bulk measure (a .44 Special case full) of black powder or Pyrodex
and no wad. This load produces 880-980 f.p.s., depending upon the
powder type and granulation, groups of 2" at 25 yards and generates
energies from 430-530 ft/lbs! You don't need an over-powder wad
with the 250 REAL in the Old Army when loading more than 25 grs.
bulk measure (a .357 Magnum case full).

A wadcutter bullet can be sized and pre-lubricated like a
conventional bullet, eliminating the need to apply grease over the
ball. The bullet diameter should be 0.0015" larger than the
largest chamber. This makes loading easy, while ensuring a
positive seal for safety and a tight fit so that the bullets don't
creep forward in recoil with heavy loads. I lubricate REAL bullets
for my Old Army in a .454" sizer, and fill the grooves with a soft
home-made lube made from 50-50 paraffin and Vaseline, with either
4 oz. of heavy white mineral oil or RCBS Case Lube II added per
pound. This is easier to use and stiffer than Crisco, doesn't melt
in hot weather, and keeps the gun clean.

With Hodgdon Pyrodex it is essential that the charge be compressed
to eliminate all airspace, otherwise hangfires or misfires will
occur. With charges less than 20 grains bulk measure in the
replicas or 25 grains in the Old Army, a full stroke of the rammer
is inadequate to compress the charge unless a wad or other filler
is used. It is necessary to place a felt wad over the powder
charge, seat it to the maximum depth of the rammer and pour Farina
or Cream of Wheat, (dispensed from a catsup bottle) to fill the
chambers, then spin the cylinder to strike the filler off level
before seating the ball. If using enlongated bullets fill the
chambers to within 1/4" of the top. Seat the ball normally, with
a firm stroke in which you should feel the charge compress before
the end of the rammer stroke.

With black powder, failure to compress the powder results in lower
velocities, greater velocity variation and vertical stringing.
When using over 20 grains bulk measure in the 1860 Colt or 1858
Remingtons, or 25 grs. in the Ruger Old Army, an Ox-Yoke wad by
itself over the powder is adequate. With lighter charges, use
Farina or Cream of Wheat also. A wad isn't necessary with heavier
charges, but accuracy is better, velocities are higher, the bore
leads less and the gun is far easier to clean afterwards.

The loads in the table used backstop scrap from .38 wadcutter and
.22 rimfire bullets, 8 BHN, containing 1.5% antimony and 0.3% tin.
The results speak for themselves. Pure lead IS NOT ESSENTIAL!
Traditional wisdom states that the sprue of a round ball must be
placed up and centered for uniformity. If your mould produces a
distinct shoulder around the cut-off, this is true. This
precaution is unnecessary with balls cast in Lee moulds, which are
round any way you want to measure them. I never pay any attention
to the sprue. They shoot fine, so another myth bites the dust!

When the rear sight is bottomed out, on my Old Army, Ruger's
recommended load of 20 grs. of FFFg, strikes high in the ten-ring
of the 25-yard Timed and Rapid-Fire pistol target. A heavier load
of 35 grs. of FFFg hits at 12:00 in the nine ring. Heavier bullets
strike at the upper edge of the paper. The Ruger's front sight needs
to be 0.080" higher to permit greater flexibility in loads.

The Ruger Old Army is the finest cap & ball revolver ever produced.
Properly managed, it can be either a precision target arm or a
powerful hunting gun. The Ruger is far superior to anything else
out there. Mine is more accurate than any modern cartridge
revolver I've owned, except for "tricked out" custom target guns.
I know a half dozen other Old Army owners who feel the same way,
and know mine is not a fluke. I attribute this to the Ruger's
cylinder throats being smooth, round and ideally dimensioned,
.452", compared to a barrel groove diameter of .451". In addition,
the gun is perfectly timed, and the forcing cone smooth and
concentric. A well turned out percussion revolver gives better
bullet-to-bore alignment than a cartridge gun, because the bullet
is an exact fit to the chambers. In a cartridge gun the bullet and
cartridge must be somewhat smaller than the chambers to enter
freely, and there is always some misalignment and deformation.

When shooting black powder, bore condition is critical to maintain
accuracy. A load which groups 2" when fired from a clean bore will
double its group size within 30 rounds, if the bore is not cleaned.
Competitors using black powder, as opposed to Pyrodex, brush the
bore and chambers each time they reload, to maintain a consistent
bore condition. Cleaning during a shooting session is unnecessary
when using Pyrodex.

Black powder varies in quality and strength, even between different
lots of the same brand and granulation, so your results are not
repeatable over time. The Goex FFFg black powder used in the table
is of 1993 production and the stronger of two batches I tested.
Another lot of the same brand and granulation, old, gave over 100
f.p.s. lower velocity with the same charges. This is typical
experience with black powder. I prefer Pyrodex because it gives
better ballistic uniformity, less fouling, improved accuracy and
permits higher velocities while maintaining accuracy.

"Best Loads" For the Ruger Old Army
Average of Five, 6-Shot Groups at 25 yards, sandbag rests, Ox Yoke
wads over powder, and Lee Case Lube over ball unless otherwise stated.

BULLET POWDER CASE VEL@10' Avg. ES (ins.)
WEIGHT/TYPE DIPPER (f.p.s.)

.457 RB 20 FFFg .32-20 801, 43 Sd 1.84
Ruger's Recommended Load, no wad, Farina fill

.457 RB, 16.5 P .32-20 911, 22 Sd 1.91
Farina fill (20 grs. bulk measure)

.457 RB, 20 RS 44 Spl. 883, 30 Sd 1.80
No fill (30 grs. bulk measure)

.457 RB 30 FFFg .44 Spl. 971, 15 Sd 2.00
wad, no fill

.457 RB 35 FFFg .44 Mag. 1010, 9 Sd 2.13

.457 RB 30 RS .30-30 1201, 27 Sd 2.53
no wad, no fill (41 grs. bulk measure)

200 REAL 25 FFFg .357 Mag. 864, 7 Sd 2.01

200 REAL 20 RS .44 Spl. 836, 29 Sd 1.91
No fill (30 grs. bulk measure)

200 REAL 30 FFFg .44 Spl. 882, 16 Sd 2.13

200 REAL 25 RS .44 Mag. 914, 41 Sd 1.82
No fill (35 grs. bulk measure)

200 REAL 35 FFFg .44 Mag. 1017, 15 Sd 1.89
no wad, no fill (35 grs. bulk measure)

250 REAL 30 FFFg .44 Spl. 882, 12 Sd 1.60
No wad, no fill

250 REAL 25 RS 44 Mag. 913, 32 Sd 2.03
No wad, no fill (35 grs. bulk measure)

250 REAL 24 P 44 Spl. 982, 28 Sd 1.94
No wad, no fill (30 grs.)



Date: 09 Jan 94 11:46:57
From: Ed Harris
Subj: Old Army Question

Loads for Ruger's Old Army:

Ruger's instruction book recommends a light target load of 20
grs. of FFFg, and filling the remainder of the chamber with
corn meal or Cream of Wheat to take up the airspace.

Round balls should be .457" diameter, to ensure an adequate
cylindrical bearing surface is formed on the ball to take the
rifling. Soft, bevel-based .45 ACP lead semi-wadcutters such
as the Saeco #131 or H&G #130BB may be used if .453" diameter
or larger. This is required so they fit the chambers
tightly to prevent their creeping forward from recoil. I
find the .45 ACP wadcutters are more accurate than the
traditional blackpowder conicals.

As the gun comes from the factory, the sights are best suited
for use with round balls. Ruger's recommended load of 20
grs. of FFFg strikes high in the ten-ring of the 25-yard
Timed and Rapid-Fire pistol target. A heavier load of 35
grs. of FFFg hits at 12:00 in the nine ring. Heavier bullets
of 200 grains or more strike at the upper edge of the paper.
The Ruger's front sight really needs to be 0.080'-0.090"
higher to permit greater flexibility in loads, as the heavier
bullets are truly accurate and provide greater energy for
hunting loads.

The Lee 200-gr. .45 cal. R.E.A.L. is more accurate than
traditional round-nosed conicals, cuts clean holes in target
paper and is of tapered design so it is easy to load. It
shoots accurately with the same charges used for round balls
in the Old Army. I lubricate REAL bullets for my Old Army in
a .454" sizer, and either fill the grooves with a soft stick
lubricant or tumble them in Lee Liquid Alox. Both methods
work well.

A charge of 20-25 grs. bulk measure of FFFg or Pyrodex P,
(Lee 1.3cc or 1.6cc measure) with the 200 R.E.A.L.
approximates the ballistics of .45 ACP wadcutter ammunition.
For a heavy hunting load 30-35 grs. bulk measure of FFFg,
Pyrodex RS or P (Lee 1.9cc or 2.2 cc measure), fills the
chambers when a wad is used, produces 2 to 2-1/2" groups at
25 yards and 850-1000 f.p.s., depending upon the powder used.

The 250-gr. Lee R.E.A.L. bullet is highly accurate and
authoritative from the Ruger Old Army with 30-35 grs. bulk
measure (a Lee 1.9cc or 2.2cc measure full) of FFFg black
powder, RS or P-grade Pyrodex. The 2.2cc measure fills the
chambers to capacity without using a wad, produces 880-980
f.p.s., depending upon the powder type and granulation and
averages 2" groups or less at 25 yards.

--- Load Tables Continue next message ---


In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed



--- Squish v1.01
* Origin: None (1:109/120.3006)


================================================== =============================

Date: 09 Jan 94 12:21:36
From: Ed Harris
Subj: Loadfs for the Old Army

Black Powder Loads For the Ruger Old Army
Average of Five, 6-Shot Groups at 25 yards from sandbag rests
CCI Caps, Ox Yoke wads.

BULLET GOEX VEL@10' EXTREME SPREAD (ins.)
FFFg (f.p.s.) Smallest Largest Average
(grs.) Goex Powder lot
-----------------------------------------------------------------
143-gr., .457" Lee Round Ball
fill+wad 20 801, 43 Sd 1.76 1.93 1.84
wad only 25 738, 31 Sd 1.99 2.58 2.24 92MY20B
931, 32 Sd 1.42 2.40 1.88 93JA12B
30 971, 15 Sd 1.79 2.20 2.00
35 1010, 9 Sd 1.50 3.96 2.13
41 1041, 10 Sd 2.46 4.50 3.46 92MY20B
1228, Sd 27 2.22 4.14 3.36 93JA12B
-----------------------------------------------------------------
200-gr. Lee R.E.A.L.
wad 20 699, 25 Sd 1.75 1.96 1.81
25 864, 7 Sd 1.06 2.55 2.01
no wad 30 685, 38 Sd 1.85 2.66 2.23 92MY20B
882, 12 Sd 1.78 2.66 2.13 93JA12B
35 852, 12 Sd 1.20 3.0 2.20 92MY20B
1017, 15 Sd 1.59 2.57 1.89 93JA12B
-----------------------------------------------------------------
250-gr. Lee R.E.A.L.

wad 20 672, 12 Sd 1.91 3.0 2.39
25 781, 31 Sd 2.04 2.56 2.22
no wad 30 882, 12 Sd 1.30 2.14 1.60
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Unless otherwise stated, all black powder tests above were based
upon firing Goex FFFg of lot 93JA12B. Two charge levels were
repeated with the 143-gr. round ball and again with the 200-gr.
Lee R.E.A.L. using a different powder lot 92MY20B. This was done
to illustrate that black powder of the same brand and granulation
is subject to variations. The results in this brief test
represent the maximum lot-to-lot variation an individual user is
expected to encounter.

Hodgdon Pyrodex RS Loads For the Ruger Old Army
Average of Five, 6-Shot Groups at 25 yards from sandbag rests
CCI caps, Ox Yoke wads.

BULLET Pyro.RS BULK VEL@10' EXTREME SPREAD (ins.)
Wt/Type ACTUAL BP (f.p.s.) Smallest Largest Average
(grs.) (grs.))
-----------------------------------------------------------------
143-gr. .457" Lee Round Ball
wad, fill 16 22 725, 30Sd 1.93 2.71 2.40
wad, no fill 20 30 883, 30Sd 1.21 2.52 1.80
25 35 947, 26Sd 2.17 2.68 2.42
no wad/fill 30 41 1201, 27Sd 2.29 3.18 2.53

200-gr. Lee R.E.A.L.
wad, no fill 20 30 836, 29Sd 1.28 2.42 1.91
25 35 914, 41Sd 1.08 2.43 1.82
-----------------------------------------------------------------
220-gr. Lee Round-Nosed Conical
wad, fill 16 22 714, 16Sd 1.73 3.17 2.34
wad, no fill 20 30 815, 25Sd 2.23 3.16 2.73
wad, no fill 25 35 889, 27Sd 2.01 2.99 2.57
-----------------------------------------------------------------
250-gr. Lee R.E.A.L.
no wad/fill 25 35 913, 32Sd 1.81 2.17 2.03

Hodgdon Pyrodex P Loads For the Ruger Old Army
Average of Five, 6-Shot Groups at 25 yards from sandbag rests
CCI caps, Ox Yoke wads

BULLET Pyro. P BULK VEL@10' EXTREME SPREAD (ins.)
Wt/Type ACTUAL BP (f.p.s.) Smallest Largest Average
(grs.) (grs.))
-----------------------------------------------------------------
143-gr. .457" Lee Round Ball
wad, fill 16.5 20 851, 11Sd 1.62 2.10 1.91
18 22 884, 14Sd 1.66 2.41 1.94
wad, no fill 21 25 942, 19Sd 1.59 2.3 2.00
24 30 985, 22Sd 1.77 4.85 2.86
29 35 1117, 51Sd 2.15 3.91 2.87
33 41 1189, 31Sd 2.15 4.65 3.32
-----------------------------------------------------------------
200-gr. Lee R.E.A.L.
wad, fill 16.5 20 816, 13Sd 1.73 2.74 2.12
18 22 860, 14Sd 1.66 2.41 1.91
wad, no fill 21 25 940, 31Sd 1.45 2.51 2.02
24 30 1002, 12Sd 2.03 3.17 2.55
no wad/ 29 35 1123, 22Sd 1.98 2.85 2.44
-----------------------------------------------------------------
250-gr. Lee R.E.A.L.
wad, fill 16.5 20 759, 9Sd 1.41 2.0 1.76
18 22 781, 16Sd 2.02 2.69 2.40
wad, no fill 21 25 876, 12Sd 1.68 2.08 1.83
24 30 982, 28Sd 1.61 2.69 1.94
-----------------------------------------------------------------



In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed



--- msged 2.05
* Origin: Home of Ed's Red (1:109/120.3006)

[Dixie Slugs]

Now, That's the best post about the loads for the Ruger Old Army, I have seen anywhere/anytime in one place....period!
Friends, my Old Army in a working gun, pure and simple! We hunt real wild hogs in the Florida swamps...and on the ground! My standard rifle is TC Grey Hawk in 50 caliber. My standard rifle bullet is the .503"- 460 gr conical from "No Excuse" bullet outfit and 90 grs of Black mag 3. That combo has proven the most acccurate and has plenty of knockdown. It has proven to cut through the tough shoulder shield on big boar hogs.
No matter how good the shot, there will be a time you need a backup....and that's when "Billy" (my ROA) comes into play! I missed a new blue ROA in 5 1/2" the other day. Had I gotten it, I would have played Josie Wales and carried both.
Now, the only reason I am looking at a conical is for a little more penetration on a hog's skull when one is mad and around your legs!
As said before, Black Mag 3 is my choice of powders for what I do. My flask throws 35 grs (by volume). My next project is to chrono that load.
The attached picture is one killed on the other side of the river.
Great Thread!...Regards, James

[Old Ironsights]

On why the sights shoot "high"...

IIRC reading somewhere that back during the Southern Revolution, troops using a pistol were taught to aim for the belt buckle. 10" high + would put a ball right in center mass.

I really need to get another ROA. 5" Stainless this time. The 7.5" was just too cumbersome.

[85gl1200@gmail.com]

Newby here. Been using 40 grains of Victor behind a 230gr cast bullit for about 35 or so years. Shoots six into a 2' group at 25 yards.
Luv that revolver.

[windrider919]

I read the magazine reviews before the Ruger Old Army was put on the market. I ordered mine and received one of the first couple hundred shipped. In fact, my serial number is beautifully low, Ha Ha He He he laughed. I did lots of experimenting with that gun. All types of BP and even duplex loads using smokeless. Round ball of several diameters, wadcutters, conicals and even jacketed.

I found that the best powder was FFFg. When Pyrodex came out I tried it and it was crap. I did not try it again for almost 10 years untill other shooters told me it was better quality.

I used a metal powder horn with a measure of 35gr, this shot great with both RB and conical.
************************************************** **************
Now here I have to sadly disagree with several of the previous posters. My ROA cylinder throats are .454 and the bore is NOT .451 but is a many times miked / checked .457. As all revolver shooters will know, this is not a recipe for accuracy!

However, In my revolver, I found that the Lee 230 gr conical over 35gr of FFFg, using no over powder wad but MANDATORY using some type of grease over the bullet to prevent gang fires. This load would put the target .38 shooters to shame. Many times on the range they would walk away with boggled minds because my cap n ball beat their match pistols. I NEVER get that accuracy with any ball of any diameter! If I cast a pure lead ball of .459 or .460 and shave a ring of lead as I ram it into the chamber it will almost be as accurate as the conical. I tried all the factory lead bullets but the Lee still beat them. I did boar hunt with jacketed .451 HP but had trouble keeping loads 2 thru 6 in the chamber. Thats when I first learned about Paper Patch, brought it up to cylinder throat dia and 'stuck' it there. Only fair to good accuracy with jacketed bullets.

I regret that I had my ROA Mag-Na-Ported when that came out. No more or less accurate but it became a lot louder and is a lead spitter now. I keep thinking I will have the barrel shortened but it is so accurate I am afraid to ruin the gun.

By the way, I am on my 4th set of nipples that just mushroomed out from use. No fancy ones, just stock ROA OEM.

Sorry to disagree with some of you guys about what bullets are better but as we must all keep in mind, every gun shoots different.

[mazo kid]

I have never used 4fg powder as loads for anything; however I have heard that it will give erratic groups as opposed to 2fg or 3fg powder.

[Dixie Slugs]

Interesting indeed! When I read the post about the oversize barrel on the ROA, I was concerned at the difference in chamber mouths (.454") and barrel grooves (.457").
I miked the chamder mouth on myr like new 1978 (Pre-Warning" ROA....Cahmber mouths @ .454" and grooves @ .454'...I then had another check it and their figures matched mine.
I have no idea about the oversize barrel that was mentioned. Maybe some othe ROA owners will check theirs. I do know of some Ruger single actions cartridge guns that had cylinder throats smaller that groove in the barrels.
Regards, James

[Dixie Slugs]

And again! Nipples for the ROA.....Track of the Wolf has the "Gold Colored" nipples with the small flash hole. They are the best I have ever used and will drop the variation shot to shot down close...even with Sub powders.
We also use the small plastic tubes from CVA over the caps and down on the nipples. The tops of the plastic tubes are below the top of the cap. They keep the cap from fragging and fired caps/plastic tubes can be flipped of with your fingernail.
Regards, James

Additional Post....The nipples I dicussed are made by Tresco/Ampco and are a bronze alloy....Thunder Ridge Muzzleloading has them....jcg

[R.M.]

.454 - .454 on both of mine

[Dixie Slugs]

And .....Here's the Cap Guards I spoke of......jcg

[Meatco1]

Dixie:

Seems to me, the smaller flash holes would restrict the touch-off flame from the cap.

When using with 777, wouldn’t those Tresco/Ampco nipples would be a detriment to ignition?

Thanks,

Richard

[Dixie Slugs]

Contrary to what many think....the smaller flash hole gives a hotter deeper flame.
In fact the Tresos are better with the sub powders.....Regards, James

[shotguneddy]

The smaller flash hole also tends to keep the caps in one piece.