Forming 11.75 X 36mm Austrian Gasser Revolver

[The Goose]

To make the 11.75 I start by cutting 45/70 brass to just a hair over 1.42".
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091249_zpsg34xzcwh.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091249_zpsg34xzcwh.jpg.html)

Next I lube the case and run it up into a .45 ACP sizing die.

After sizing there is a bulge at the base of the case that must be removed. Also the rim thickness and diameter both need to be reduced.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091455_zps7yiybny7.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091455_zps7yiybny7.jpg.html)
I put the case in the chuck being carefull to make it as centered as possible. I loosen the tool post slightly, set the dial wheel to 0 and put the tool blade at the narrow point on the case where I want to end up. Then I tighten down the tool post and back off the cutting tool.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091703_zpsm3htocpi.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091703_zpsm3htocpi.jpg.html)
I start removing the bulge. I have found that removing a little at a time is easier and cleaner than doing too much at once.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091804_zpsl13x0d1a.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091804_zpsl13x0d1a.jpg.html)
Once the bulge is removed and the case is one diameter I thin the rim to .06" by slowly moving the cutting tool back against the rim and keeping the other distance the same.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091933_zpsucdi2ipo.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_091933_zpsucdi2ipo.jpg.html)
I than back the cutting tool clear and move the cross slide back so the cutting tool is now behind the rim. I move the cutting in until it just touches and I remove a layer from the diameter of the rim. I keep doing this until it is .555". Once I have done each of these steps once they are easily repeatable on the following cases.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092016_zpskatar6mm.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092016_zpskatar6mm.jpg.html)
Next I turn the speed all the way up and use a cheap file to smooth the surface and rim.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092200_zps1nqvtutl.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092200_zps1nqvtutl.jpg.html)
Then some medium grit sand paper.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092307_zpsmc8bcvdm.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092307_zpsmc8bcvdm.jpg.html)

Now into the case trimmer for an accurate length of 1.42"

Chamfer inside and outside.

Once more into the .45 ACP sizing die and TA DA!
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092701_zpsseoib7s1.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_092701_zpsseoib7s1.jpg.html)
Primer is seated, (large magnum rifle), case mouth is expanded and 36 grains of Goex 3F is poured through the funnel.
A .030 Walters wad is placed on top of the charge and a compression die is utilized.
Bullet is seated. A 300 grain soft lead bullet from an Accurate mold sized to .446 and lubed with Sagebrush black powder lube.
Lee .45 Colt factory crimp die.

The end result. Whew!

Just for a comparison a 44/40 with 200 gr. bullet. A .45 Colt with a 255 gr. bullet and the 11.75 with a 300 gr. bullet. Most people considered the .45 Colt to be the magnum of the day. It was pretty much the most powerful revolver round. The most blackpowder that I have ever gotten into a .45 Colt case is 34 grs. and that was with a drop tube and heavy compression under a 255 gr. bullet. The 11.75 takes 36 grs. easily with light compression and a wad under a 300 gr. bullet. I think it would probably take 40 grs. easily. The Austrian Gasser revolver came out and was issued in 1870 before the 44/40 and .45 Colt. Quite a banger I think.
[URL=http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_093717_zps6bvlhbtn.jpg.html]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/20170118_093717_zps6bvlhbtn.jpg[/

[salpal48]

Great Job . What kind of Lathe Is That

[The Goose]

Sherline 4000. My Christmas gift to myself. Fantastic lathe.

[Mk42gunner]

Also supposedly used in the Werndl Carbines by Austria.

[Scorpius]

So just a thought. Why not turn down a steel rod or brass rod that fits perfectly into the case and use that as a guide to get perfectly centered for cutting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[screwcutter]

Have you sectioned one of the finished cases to see how thick the case head side wall junction is? A friend was playing with the idea of a long 44 on a 444 marlin case squeezed down like you're doing but he didn't like the way it thinned that area. Low pressure BP loads should be OK.
mr

[Ballistics in Scotland]

So just a thought. Why not turn down a steel rod or brass rod that fits perfectly into the case and use that as a guide to get perfectly centered for cutting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is about essential in a lathe chuck which has seen heavy use, as they easily become eccentric, but that is very unlikely to apply to this one. You would still have to mark a spot on the rod that has to be lined up with one particular jaw when you put it back to use another time. The alternative is to turn that rod on a soft arbor made to fit the headstock taper.

All right, now we know the lathe, which looks first-rate for the purpose, but there are a lot of good lathes nowadays. The saw looks like a rare gem, though. What is it?

[The Goose]

Have you sectioned one of the finished cases to see how thick the case head side wall junction is? A friend was playing with the idea of a long 44 on a 444 marlin case squeezed down like you're doing but he didn't like the way it thinned that area. Low pressure BP loads should be OK.
mr

Yes, I have done that and it looks good to me. Also I have inspected after firing and there are no signs of failure or pressure. I think that if I stick to black powder I will be OK.

[The Goose]

All right, now we know the lathe, which looks first-rate for the purpose, but there are a lot of good lathes nowadays. The saw looks like a rare gem, though. What is it?

The saw is just a cheap cut off or chop saw that I bought on Amazon. I think Harbor Freight sells something similar. But here is a jig I just put together for brass cutting. This picture is a .41 Magnum case that I am cutting down to make 9.4mm Dutch revolver. Just a carriage bolt through a piece of some scrap L shaped metal I found in a junk drawer. Very easy and works incredibly well. I do a final trim in my Forster case trimmer for exact length. I just did 100 cases in less than an hour.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_080457_zpswitmtfgw.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_080457_zpswitmtfgw.jpg.html)

[The Goose]

So just a thought. Why not turn down a steel rod or brass rod that fits perfectly into the case and use that as a guide to get perfectly centered for cutting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually that is what I do for cutting down 24 gauge brass to make .577 Snider or .577/450 cases. I turned down a 3/4" aluminum rod that I found in the garage. Probably not the best or most durable material, but it was free and works great. It is slightly thicker at the case mouth so that it sticks slightly and cuts well. The cut case literally springs back when it separates and can be easily pulled off. The little ring that is left behind can usually be pulled off by hand or occasionally a slight nudge with pliers. I used to do this by hand with a tube cutter and a long socket wrench socket that just fit into the case. The lathe is "wicked" easier (he said in his Boston accent). Then I use a 3/4" counter bore with a 9/16" pilot to trim to exact length. I am going to make my own pilot that will be the exact finished length I want for the case. That way I can chuck up the counter bore in the lathe and just push the case onto the pilot until it stops.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_073415_zpspdvykcdz.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_073415_zpspdvykcdz.jpg.html)

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_073655_zps6oyzaxsg.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_073655_zps6oyzaxsg.jpg.html)

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/sgoselin/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_073744_zpsniqteci2.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/sgoselin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170201_073744_zpsniqteci2.jpg.html)

[salpal48]

I made the same Jig on My chop saw. . I just Ground down The tip. to fit snug in the Open Primer pocket. Made one for large, small. and One in 6.45 MM Berdam