What's a good ladle?

[jamesp81]

I just got started casting, and I'm using the regular old Lyman cast iron ladle. I detest it already. Molten lead dribbles down the face of the dipper, kind of like how milk sometimes doesn't pour from the carton, but sticks to the side and ends up on your kitchen counter. Except this isn't milk, it's 700 degree molten metal. It runs off the side of the mold usually, and ends up splashing back into the pot, and I don't care none for splashing when it's liquefied metal.

I am considering going with a bottom pour pot, but I haven't decided yet because I have no chance of affording anything other than a Lee. I've read the horror stories, and I don't really want equipment that I have to babysit. I already halfway despise my Hornady LnL AP progressive press for it's babysitting requirements, and I'm not adding any more equipment like that if I can help it (I seriously regret giving away my Lee Turret press for this reason, because it would run without drama. But that's another thread).

As part of my decision making process, I'd like to hear what ladles are being used that work better than the Lyman. And no dribbling or splashing.

[Ickisrulz]

I use the RCBS ladle for 1 and 2 cavity molds. I enlarged the spout hole to 1/4" (I think). I use a Rowell #1 for 4 and 5 cavity molds since it holds more. I have never had problems with either.

I have never used the Lyman.

[fred2892]

I have the lyman and rcbs ladles. They are almost identical apart from an external rib on the rcbs. Both work as advertised. I think your problem is either technique or experience, maybe a bit of both. Is there anyone you know nearby who casts?
When i started pouring a few years ago I was lucky enough to meet a long time caster who invited me along to his home. Even though we were using nothing more than a small gas burner and an enamel saucepan full of pure lead, we were casting everthing from .577 minnies to .32 round ball using a lyman ladle. Watching the ease in which he cast gave me confidence and that confidence allowed me to hone my technique to pour better and better boolits using a ladle. I also learned patience to stop and think about things when results aren't what you're expecting.
If you're really casting on your kitchen counter then you're off to a bad start already.


Sent from my GT-P5110 using Tapatalk

[cuzinbruce]

The Lyman and RCBS are pretty much the same. Check the spout on the Lyman you have and see that it will make complete contact with the sprue plate on the mold. With the Lyman full of lead and the mold tipped so the sprue plate is vertical, bring them together, then rotate to pour the bullet. Hold it to fill the cavity, then rotate back and take the Lyman away. It should work fine with a little practice.
The Rowell ladle is great but it is for pouring, with the mold sitting on the bench, then pour from the side. Same with plumbers ladles.

[Wayne Smith]

You have one of the two best ladels out there for pouring into molds. The other is the RCBS. I think part of your problem is your alloy or your temperature or both. I believe it is antimony rich alloys that tend to sheet when pouring - maybe one of the metallurgical guys can come along and explain this better. Alloy that is too cool sometimes shows this tendency too.

[lightman]

The Lyman or RCBS ladles have a good rep. Rowell makes a nice ladle too.

[country gent]

I use a lyman ladle the newer one with the spout and 3/4 "ball type body". I also have 2 rcbs ladles they hold a little more than the lyman. I have opened the spout holes up from 3/16 to .210 dia. I also converting one of the rcbs to a double spout for 2 cavity moulds. The last ladle I use regularly is the #1 rowel which holds close to a lb of lead and has a bigger spout along with bottom pour feature. All do a great job for me and they work well. Another trick is to pour over a separate pan to catch the run off away from the pot. I hang the mould over the side of the pot handles resting on edge of pot with a slight angle to control run off ( I have also ground a small trough in the plate) and pour a full ladle letting the excess run back into the pot. By being close to the side splash is controlled as the trough helps to control it also. A lot is technique and experimenting. A small pan and pouring over it instead of the pot limits splashing but makes a step to occasionally reinsert the lead into the pot.

[GhostHawk]

That is my ladle and either you got a bad one, or you don't know how to run it yet.

A When I cast almost all of it is "pressure" casting. I match the spout of the ladle with the hole of the mold sprue plate. Mold is held about 45 degree angle. Once matched I rotate the ladle so that it pours. I also crack the connection slightly so a slight stream of lead comes out around the nipple on the ladle and runs back into the pot.

Next, you need a piece of plywood, or better yet some non flammable thin material to put on countertop first.

Use a cutting board for now but keep your eyes open.

Last, mold, sprue plate, ladle, lead must ALL be hot.

Think of it like pouring mini shots of espresso. Match spout to sprue, tip watch lead come up sprue when mold is full, hold 1-2 seconds, break connection. Pour next cavity.

Next, the mold should be OVER the pot unless you are using a bottom pour. So spills go back in.

So ladle goes into the pot, is filled, comes up, match, tip, break, next cavity.

Its all practice and coordination.

This one
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71TadhPf%2BEL._AC_UL320_SR244,320_.jpg

Only problem with this picture is he is pouring from way way too high up. But that nipple the lead comes out of should match up with the hole in the mold sprue plate.

Not this one.

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQRPg9-PM-juiyIouGInh9VqMFAt7ZD0Fs_AO9RpKIzeU_KQSKx

[OutHuntn84]

Try ladling a little less alloy at each pour. This should allow you to get more of an angle on the spout before it starts actually pouring with out getting much of any back flow. At least that is my way YMMV

[jamesp81]

You have one of the two best ladels out there for pouring into molds. The other is the RCBS. I think part of your problem is your alloy or your temperature or both. I believe it is antimony rich alloys that tend to sheet when pouring - maybe one of the metallurgical guys can come along and explain this better. Alloy that is too cool sometimes shows this tendency too.

Interesting, because in my first casting session ever, I had a real struggle getting the mold hot enough. I was running the pot at its max temperature setting and casting as fast I was comfortable being new at it, and I never did get up to a workable temperature with the mold. Maybe the pot isn't quite up to it?

[jamesp81]

That is my ladle and either you got a bad one, or you don't know how to run it yet.

A When I cast almost all of it is "pressure" casting. I match the spout of the ladle with the hole of the mold sprue plate. Mold is held about 45 degree angle. Once matched I rotate the ladle so that it pours. I also crack the connection slightly so a slight stream of lead comes out around the nipple on the ladle and runs back into the pot.

Next, you need a piece of plywood, or better yet some non flammable thin material to put on countertop first.

Use a cutting board for now but keep your eyes open.

Last, mold, sprue plate, ladle, lead must ALL be hot.

Think of it like pouring mini shots of espresso. Match spout to sprue, tip watch lead come up sprue when mold is full, hold 1-2 seconds, break connection. Pour next cavity.

Next, the mold should be OVER the pot unless you are using a bottom pour. So spills go back in.

So ladle goes into the pot, is filled, comes up, match, tip, break, next cavity.

Its all practice and coordination.

This one
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71TadhPf%2BEL._AC_UL320_SR244,320_.jpg

Only problem with this picture is he is pouring from way way too high up. But that nipple the lead comes out of should match up with the hole in the mold sprue plate.

Not this one.

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQRPg9-PM-juiyIouGInh9VqMFAt7ZD0Fs_AO9RpKIzeU_KQSKx

I'll give this a try.

Question. When a cavity fills, do you stop pouring and move to the next cavity, or just move on without stopping the pour?

[jamesp81]

I have the lyman and rcbs ladles. They are almost identical apart from an external rib on the rcbs. Both work as advertised. I think your problem is either technique or experience, maybe a bit of both. Is there anyone you know nearby who casts?
When i started pouring a few years ago I was lucky enough to meet a long time caster who invited me along to his home. Even though we were using nothing more than a small gas burner and an enamel saucepan full of pure lead, we were casting everthing from .577 minnies to .32 round ball using a lyman ladle. Watching the ease in which he cast gave me confidence and that confidence allowed me to hone my technique to pour better and better boolits using a ladle. I also learned patience to stop and think about things when results aren't what you're expecting.
If you're really casting on your kitchen counter then you're off to a bad start already.


Sent from my GT-P5110 using Tapatalk


Uhh, no, I'm not actually casting on my kitchen counter. My wife would undoubtedly shoot me with one of my own cast boolits if I did that. I'm doing it outdoors on a work table.

[barrabruce]

Usual trouble I have sometimes is the nozzle gets slightly blocked with the custard like skin on my melt.
I use a skewer to unblock the hole and the lead then runs free.
Cures a lot of ailments.
Of course fluxing will help but I hate it when I'm in the zone and things are humming and bullets dropping like rain.

I hold the back end of the mould or the start of the handles from the blocks on the pots lip and pivot it it down forward to near the melt.

Everything runs off the sprue plate back into the pot.

Depends on the sprue plate thickness and mould you are using (size) if the proper lyman procedure works or not.

Some moulds the sprue plate gets cold and needs some lead running over it after a positive pour to help keep it hot enough.

I add more lead before the lead is dropping that much that it tends to splash back up in the pot.

[Eddie Southgate]

I use the old Ideal and a Lee . Never had any problems with either .

Eddie

[runfiverun]

your not really gonna cast fast enough with a ladle to keep a mold all that hot.
you need to get it up to temp first.
then keep it there.
I usually set my mold down on the pot rim before breaking the sprue.
this also allows me to pour the excess alloy over the plate and back into the pot.

[GhostHawk]

Mold stays at 45 degrees, ladle tips away when I am ready to switch, mates up with the new hole.

BUT, I like to continue to pour for a couple of seconds after the cavity is full. Especially on bigger bullets. As the lead cools it shrinks, if your ladle is still mated, the metal in the center is liquid, it will pull from there. If not it may make a dimple on your bullet.

Don't be afraid to try using your ladle to pour some melted lead over the sprue plate before actually trying to make bullets, just to warm stuff up.

I have actually stuck molds into the lead in the pot. Whatever it takes.

Practice, experiment. Ideally you should be seated and stable.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

That picture on the Lyman Casting Manual is your problem. DON'T DO THAT! ! Full(?) ladle - spout horizontal in right hand, bullet mold sprue plate vertical, put ladle spout into bullet mold sprue plate hole - now rotate so lead pours into mold, sprue plate is now horizontal, ladle spout is vertical, tilt ladle away from mold making sure sprue has enough lead for shrinkage. Keep ladle in contact with mold during pour. Cadence, amount of time mold is against ladle can be adjusted to keep mold hot. Iron/steel molds sometimes take 8-12 bullets before up to heat, pre-heating mold helps.

[TexasGrunt]

Interesting, because in my first casting session ever, I had a real struggle getting the mold hot enough. I was running the pot at its max temperature setting and casting as fast I was comfortable being new at it, and I never did get up to a workable temperature with the mold. Maybe the pot isn't quite up to it?

What mold?

It makes a huge difference if you're casting 55 gr double cavity or 240 gr double cavity.

Even with my bottom pour pot it takes many casts to get my Lee .22 cal mold up to temp. Casting with a 200 gr SWC mold about 3-4 casts.

[triggerhappy243]

MY LADLE IS HOME MADE, 1 INCH DIA. STEEL PIPE CAPPED AND WELDED. i WELDED A 12 INCH STEEL NAIL TO THE SIDE, AND ATTACHED A WOOD SLEEVE FOR THE HANDLE. HOLDS TWICE THE METAL AS A LYMAN LADLE. OVER KILL, YEA, I KNOW.

[jamesp81]

What mold?

It makes a huge difference if you're casting 55 gr double cavity or 240 gr double cavity.

Even with my bottom pour pot it takes many casts to get my Lee .22 cal mold up to temp. Casting with a 200 gr SWC mold about 3-4 casts.

Lee .452 200gr SWC mold. 6 cavity and 2 cavity. The 2 cavity, obviously, gets warmed up more easily.

[mozeppa]

ladles are fine for those who like them...not me.

too much movement .....dip out the lead pour into the mold ...put ladle down...eject the cast boolits...close mold
pick up the ladle ....repeat.

you always put into the ladle what is floating on top of your alloy ...and this goes into the bullets.

with a bottom pour if there is any gunk in your lead it will float it won't get into your bullets if you add lead to the pot when you are getting low ...never run your pot out of lead, or the gunk will get into your bullets and into your pots valve.

here again is the thing....flux flux and flux again.

[triggerhappy243]

mozeppa, where is the like button? LOL I cast larger bullets and like to cast alot of them in a short amount of time. So I flood the tops of my molds to fill the cavities as fast as possible. (large capacity ladle idea).

[Doggonekid]

I have the RCBS ladle and it gave me many years of good service. I retired it about 20 years ago for a bottom pour pot. Never regretted it.

[gwpercle]

Casting tip , keep the ladle submerged in the melt . It dribbles because the lead in the ladle cools just a bit and will not free flow. You have to keep lead in the ladle and the ladle in the pot so this doesn't happen.
I'm a ladler myself , I didn't care for the bottom pour method. Not my cup of tea.
Gary

[wellfedirishman]

Slightly off topic but posting since the OP heard Lee bottom pour pots were no good.

I use 2 Lee pots side by side.
A 20 lb pot to melt the lead and a 10 lb bottom pour pot beside it to actually fill the molds. Whenever the 10 lb pot starts to get low I ladle on 2lbs of lead from the big pot, and replace it with new ingots.

That way I can keep casting quickly even with 5-6 cavity heavy bullet molds. This arrangement works great, I can knock out a thousand bullets in a couple of hours.

[longbow]

I use an old open plumber's ladle. It holds at least a lb. of lead so is really good for large pours like shotgun slugs.

I can pour faster with the ladle than lead flows out of a bottom pour pot so again, good for large volume moulds.

I don't like the Lyman and RCBS style ladles with the little pouring spout, I'll stick with my open ladle. I'll bet triggerhappy's ladle is about the same size and style.

[brassrat]

I am new to this and never ladle and pour from the surface lead and also just hold the mold and make one big pour down the spru plate channel, like the Lyman cover photo, only much closer. The boolets are looking pretty good, whats the problem? I would be there, forever, tilting the mold back and forth on each cavity.

[country gent]

A lot open the spout up on the RCBS and lyman ladles from 3/16" to around .210-.215" with a drill this helps in 2 ways.1) it opens the spouts up for more flow, .020+ thousandths makes a big difference 2) it removes and ridge or burrs restrictions left in the lade spout junction also increasing flow. The rowel bottom pour ladles have a bigger spout but can pressure cast with them easily. The ladle I'm converting to a double spout is going to be around .250 bores with the pipe nipples I'm using. As said above leave the ladle in the pot not setting beside it and keep it hot. Pour deliberately don't try and start slow and increase.