Finally made some passable boolits

[jamesp81]

My first casting session was a disaster. Not a single boolit worth keeping. I was using a Lee 6 cavity .452 200gr SWC mold.

This is time I used the 2 cavity version of the same mold. I ended up with 95 boolits worth keeping. Dented a few of them dropping them into my bucket though.

The 2 cavity mold was easier to use ladle casting from a 10 lb pot.

I have a couple of questions.

1. Initially I put too much sprue plate lube on. I'm using 2 cycle engine oil. It migrated and got into the cavities. The cavities took on a brownish gold burnish. I stopped casting and cleaned the mold with that I had...dawn dish detergent followed up by rubbing alcohol. The burnish remained. I went ahead and relubed and went back to casting. No issues once the mold was hot enough and the boolits dropped at .452 just like they should. Should I worry about further cleaning?

2. Many of my boolits won't stand until straight sitting on their bases. Many of them have a small bump of lead left where the opening in the sprue plate is. Is this anything to worry about?

3. Should the sprue plate have any play? I'm noticing my sprue plate has a small bit of play...not much. Is this normal, or should think about tightening my plate down a bit?

4. Here's the big one...my lead dipper (Lyman). Molten lead dribbles down the dipper instead of pouring cleanly from the spout. I had lead running in a river off my mold and splashing back into the pot. I don't care for splashing when it's 700 degree lead. What can I do to mitigate this? I didn't start out on a bottom pour pot because I didn't want to deal with the mess of dripping, but this is way worse.

[maxreloader]

This is a captain obvious answer but is there anything blocking the flow of your alloy in the dipper spout? buildup, crud, anything? use the appropriate sized drill and hand-turn to get your spout back to "factory" spec. careful because most are cast and will fracture if you are forceful.

[pergoman]

I have only ever worked from a bottom pour pot so I know no different. The dripping has never been a problem for me. Sure, there are a few drips every casting session with my #20 Lee pot but it has never made a mess. I place one of my ingot molds on the base for the pot and a piece of wood with a slot cut in it directly under the pour spout. Any drips end up in the ingot mold.
I would say the sprue plate shouldn't have play in it. It should move freely and with a slight resistance. It should stay in the closed position when the mold is rotated and not flop open. The boolit bases should be as flat and smooth as possible for best accuracy.

[jamesp81]

I have only ever worked from a bottom pour pot so I know no different. The dripping has never been a problem for me. Sure, there are a few drips every casting session with my #20 Lee pot but it has never made a mess. I place one of my ingot molds on the base for the pot and a piece of wood with a slot cut in it directly under the pour spout. Any drips end up in the ingot mold.
I would say the sprue plate shouldn't have play in it. It should move freely and with a slight resistance. It should stay in the closed position when the mold is rotated and not flop open. The boolit bases should be as flat and smooth as possible for best accuracy.

besides the obvious minimal play in the sprue plate, what else could cause these little bumps on the boolit base?

[jamesp81]

This is a captain obvious answer but is there anything blocking the flow of your alloy in the dipper spout? buildup, crud, anything? use the appropriate sized drill and hand-turn to get your spout back to "factory" spec. careful because most are cast and will fracture if you are forceful.

lead frequently solidifies in it and crusts around it. No matter how long I leave the dipper in the melt it never melts off. Some always sticks.

The lead dribbles down the side of the dipper just like a 1 year old with a jar of baby food.

[OS OK]

Without pictures to help...I can only guess the sprue plate is cutting the sprue at the height it passes over the mold...indicating some space there.
If not that? waiting too long to cut and the plate flexes up as it cuts? Hey I'm spitwadding here...get that iPhone and shoot some pics.
If it was pronounced I wonder why you don't have flashing or skirts on the bases?

[jamesp81]

FYI...just checked my sprue plate. The screw had definitely worked loose. I tightened it lightly. Found out real quick...the threads are left handed. Makes sense now that I think about it, but wasn't expecting it.

Question on sprue plate lube. I apply a bit of 2 cycle engine oil at the beginning of every casting session. The stuff always ends up smoking and leaving residue. Am I still getting lubrication after this stuff more or less burns / scorches? If so...how does it work for anyone?

[jamesp81]

Without pictures to help...I can only guess the sprue plate is cutting the sprue at the height it passes over the mold...indicating some space there.
If not that? waiting too long to cut and the plate flexes up as it cuts? Hey I'm spitwadding here...get that iPhone and shoot some pics.
If it was pronounced I wonder why you don't have flashing or skirts on the bases?

Here are three pretty good ones. Most of them are actually pretty good:

186501

Here are some rough ones:

186502

[Cowboy_Dan]

As to your sprue lube, I use that smoking to indicate that my mould is up to temp. You should be able to feel when a new application is needed. It only takes a little.

[jamesp81]

As to your sprue lube, I use that smoking to indicate that my mould is up to temp. You should be able to feel when a new application is needed. It only takes a little.

I admit to being a bit paranoid about this. I've galled my first mold just a little from not doing it right...nothing too serious, it still works fine. But I get incensed when new equipment ends up with damage (even if it's inconsequential) right out of the gate. Call it a pet peeve.

[OS OK]

I come from a machine/factory background where we used steam...bolt threads would rust and become unserviceable so they used 'anti-seize'. A little goes a long way and lasts forever...A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY...heat doesn't affect it and it will not migrate everywhere...I've had it forever around the shop so I use it...I don't even know of a brand name sprue plate lube.

[high standard 40]

About the raised sprue cut on the base of the bullet. Are you cutting your sprues with a mallet or are you using a gloved hand?
I once had this issue and cured it by adjusting the length of time I waited between filling the mold and cutting the sprue. And also by using a gloved hand and applying a small amount of downward pressure on the sprue plate as I open it to cut the sprue. If you open the sprue plate too soon, you risk smearing lead. Wait too long and the sprue is hard to cut and more likely to leave the raised bump. Experiment with the wait time and pay attention to the results. You will find what your mold likes. As far as sprue plate lube. I use synthetic two stroke oil. I don't apply it until the mold is at operating temperature. I place a drop or two on a cotton swab. Fill the mold and cut the sprue but don't empty the mold. Leave the bullets in place. Apply the oil on the swab to the underside of the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks. Don't put any too close to the edges of the mold cavities. Then use the dry end of the swab to wipe the surfaces to remove excess lube. A thin film is all you need. Then empty the mold and continue casting. Let us know if this helps.

[OS OK]

The cast on the bottom pic on the right looks like the sprue plate wasn't completely closed...it looks off center. They are all fine to shoot like that, no problem. The top pic looks fine.

[Hounddog]

I just had the same thing happen to me with a new 6 cav Lee 452-230-tc/tl mould that I was using. The screw that holds the sprue plate when the mould is closed had worked itself loose. Tightened it down with an appropriately sized combination wrench and the nubs went away. Those 6 cav 45 moulds drain the pot quick!! Be very miserly with the lube application. You will develop a feel for when the mould needs it!! Keep at it

hounddog

[stubert]

Put the sprue plate lube on with a q-tip. just a teeny drop and spread it out as thin as possible. I use 2 cycle synthetic.

[Yodogsandman]

A little piece of steel wool in the sprue plate screw hole will help to prevent it from working it's way out.

[Boolseye]

I heat my molds up 'til the sprue plate starts to smoke, too. In my view there us nothing more important than a hot mold. I always lube my molds at the end of the casting session (you know to lube the mold block top with lead in the mold, then wipe it dry with the clean end of the Q-tip?).

[Shiloh]

besides the obvious minimal play in the sprue plate, what else could cause these little bumps on the boolit base?

Wait a second or two longer before you cut the sprues.

Shiloh

[StratsMan]

JamesP.... By your own admission, you're just starting to cast... Casting is as much 'art' as it is science... You're still developing the 'feel' for casting, so cut yourself plenty of slack for your learning curve... It will take some time to find your technique.... Your second effort looks way better than my second effort...

Others have given key info... Make sure the sprue plate is tight, but moves freely.. And closed all the way, too... Experiment with temperature and pace to find the rhythm that gives you the best results... And don't be afraid to remelt the ones that don't look so good...

[TexasGrunt]

When ladle casting make sure you hold the mold at a 90 degree angle and put the spout of the ladle into the sprue hole. Then tilt both the ladle and mold upright. Then twist the ladle away from the mold.

Ladle casting a six cavity means three trips to the pot.

I started with the same six cavity mold, but with a bottom pour pot. I was getting 99% casts within minutes.

I can ladle pour my two cavity molds with no problems.

[runfiverun]

you can close the plate and re-cut the bumps again.

the 2 stroke is a barrier to keep molten lead off the mold blocks.
when it burns it's just removing the liquid part and leaves the carbon chain behind on the surface of the mold.
anti-sieze like OSOK mentions does the same thing.
[it's what I use too bTW, that or A/C ester-100 oil whichever is closest]

apply the oil to the mold top when you have boolits in the mold and when the mold is hot.
use a q-tip and just swipe it across where the plate is going to swing.

to fix those little annoying LEE mold things.
do a quick search on the word LEEMENTING you'll get a good read on how to tune a lee mold into workable shape before you even use it.

[jamesp81]

to fix those little annoying LEE mold things.
do a quick search on the word LEEMENTING you'll get a good read on how to tune a lee mold into workable shape before you even use it.

That looks like a great way for me to throw 40 or so dollars away. Because there is zero chance I could actually do that without ruining the mold.

[Plate plinker]

Buy a bottom pour pot and don't look back. That is if you are seeking to produce boolits in volume.

[Mitch]

here is something that may help with your lubeing of your mold.as said above try different in the timeing of cutting the sprue.your fist session was not a wast you learned something.fyi I think most of had some of the same problems.it is avery good thing lead melts over and over.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?137982-Mould-Lube-Instructions-(works-with-BullPlate-too)
Hope this helps out a bit

[Strtspdlx]

I had the same issue with the bump in the base of my lee 2 cavity, could you post a picture of the holes in the sprue plate with a white background so the edge can be clearly seen? and when you get a second make sure the bolt for the sprue plate is tight, and apply a very small amount of pressure to the bottom of the sprue plate to see if it lifts off the mold blocks when viewed in light. a mold I had gotten new had a sprue plate that was either incorrect in thickness or the washer that supposed to hold tension wasn't correct, along with sprue plate holes that where very rough and not very well finished caused the same issues, I could minimize the bump by applying downward force to cut the bump out, but then I was having to remember doing so many thing at once just to get a clean sprue cut. I feel as though the quality control on the lee molds has severely decreased in the past 6 months, but then again ive only been casting for a little over a year, and ive only owned about 8 lee molds, some of them I got so fed up with I just returned them. now I know better, it doesn't take much work to get them casting well. I have two that I put on my modification block awhile ago to make them run right, this weekend I had finished both. success at last, they're great molds.

[jamesp81]

Buy a bottom pour pot and don't look back. That is if you are seeking to produce boolits in volume.

I think this is what I'm going to do. Probably get a Lee 20lb bottom pour. I can't even begin to afford the RCBS or Lyman units.

[bullseye67]

Good evening, I have been casting with LEE molds and LEE pots for along time, 35ish years. When I started it was a dip and fill with a single cavity 38 Wadcutter mold. Hmmmm I should have kept track of the 1000's of pounds of lead I have cast....another time I will figure it out:D I would get a 10 pound bottom pour pot and then a 20 pound pot later. Once you've gotten good with a 6 cavity mold 10 pounds goes pretty quick, but you can keep a supply of "hot plate" ingots ready to go. I cast and put the sprue's back in the pot and add hot ingots as needed to keep the pot 3/4 full. The advantage of a larger pot isn't "more casting, less adding ingots" but (in my way/thought) is having a more consistent alloy and temperature. Again having hot ingots ready is a must. Keeping the pot between 3/4 and full is important for lead pressure and consistent flow. And it's all a learning experience!

[jamesp81]

Good evening, I have been casting with LEE molds and LEE pots for along time, 35ish years. When I started it was a dip and fill with a single cavity 38 Wadcutter mold. Hmmmm I should have kept track of the 1000's of pounds of lead I have cast....another time I will figure it out:D I would get a 10 pound bottom pour pot and then a 20 pound pot later. Once you've gotten good with a 6 cavity mold 10 pounds goes pretty quick, but you can keep a supply of "hot plate" ingots ready to go. I cast and put the sprue's back in the pot and add hot ingots as needed to keep the pot 3/4 full. The advantage of a larger pot isn't "more casting, less adding ingots" but (in my way/thought) is having a more consistent alloy and temperature. Again having hot ingots ready is a must. Keeping the pot between 3/4 and full is important for lead pressure and consistent flow. And it's all a learning experience!

Is there something about the 10 lb pot that makes it easier for a beginner?

Something I've been wondering...do you drain your bottom pour pots when done, or just let the lead freeze in the pot and then remelt it? You have to do some of that with a ladle pot since you can't ladle ALL of it out.

[TexasGrunt]

Leave the lead in the pot.

[OS OK]

A question about pot size, just starting off?
I don't know of a difference in ease of use for a newb other than with the 10 pound pot, you have to feed it small ingots and when you buy or start making your own ingots you'll need to make the smaller ones that take more time and effort, 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other, not a deal breaker decision-just a thought...can't feed it muffins easily though...but, if it's economy and the cash layout to get started in something your not sure about, I suppose the 10 is ok to start...
Later when you want 6 banger molds and higher production you can use a 20 or larger and the 10 will still have a place on the bench.
I use a 10 to run HP's with a much softer and different Pb blend for the HP's that I cast in smaller lots of a few hundred at a time.
It's good to leave the Pb in the bottom at the end of a session because it'll get the melting process going much faster than starting from an empty pot and...you can leave harder Pb blends in the larger pot and not have to empty it out for softer blends you may not use all the time for general casting.
Here is a real economical set-up that won't cost you all that much and it gets me by fine...having the pot spigot at the right height to see what your doing inspired me to build this simple fixture...I had some of these trays around that I was casting into and putting sprue cuts in so they got incorporated into the higher stand too. Whatever you do, if building a stand...be sure to glue your wood because those pots get heavy, you wouldn't want it to slump over sideways with that hot Pb in there!

186599

[bullseye67]

Good morning, Last night when I posted my reply I was thinking, after, Hmmmm shud'da put a picture with it. Today here are a couple of pictures. I was last casting some air cooled Plain Base 357 boolits. I find I use the 10lb pot any time I have a small amount to do. I was using a 2 cavity and a 6 cavity. With a pile of hot ingots ready to add I made just over 20lbs of finished boolits. I try to keep the pot full, somewhere between 3/4 and full. As the picture shows. I drop them on the towel and as they cool I nudge them down the ramp into a box. As I fill a box it gives me an idea of how many I have cast, each box holds about 15lbs. When I water quench I switch the ramp for a bucket of cold water.
I leave the pot full and put the clean-up on top for next time, as it shows in the picture. I put large tiles on the top of my casting table, It makes clean-up as easy as, well pick your metaphor, I like PIE any kind....
When I have a more time to cast I switch to the 20lb pot. The last time I was making Wadcutters for my 32 S&W Long. I started with a full 20lb pot and when I was done I had 5 boxes full or just over 5000 boolits. Again same system. Keeping the pot 3/4 to full. I find that way I have a large amount of blended alloy at the same temp and same sprout pressure. Over time I have realized, if you want consistent boolits with weight, size and free of voids. This system works well. I can grab a random handful of my 32 wadcutters and there is less than 1/2gr. difference, all the same size. I have found I can typically cast more consistent boolits than I can buy.
My advice to get a 10lb pot first was based on how much I use mine. These are the reasons,
1) It heats up faster.
2) Works perfect with 2 cavity molds.
3) Works well with 6 cavity. A 20lb does work better, maybe?
4) Lower $$ Last time I looked the 10lb was less than 1/2 the cost? They tend to put the 10lb on sale more often.
5) Most importantly, working a bit slower usually equals better results. I had 18 reject boolits, from 20lbs, last session and what I reject most would'nt.
Hope this helps. Be safe, have fun.....

[Yodogsandman]

Can't adjust the lead flow on a 10 lb pot. With a 20 lb pot you can. A 20 lb pot is about the same price most times.

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_3213659_-1?utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_group=FIELD+STREAM/OUTDR+CAMPG+AMMUNITION+RELOADING&utm_keyword=106995202&utm_source=shopping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-Precision-Production-Lead-Melting-Pot-IV-Reloading-90009-/181678000074?hash=item2a4cda47ca:g:8x4AAOSw6BtVVNx O

[Boolseye]

I started with the Lee 4-20 and it has certainly met all my needs, from casting large #s of heavy boolits to just a few.
Can't speak for the 10 lb. pot. Someday I'd like to address the dripping. I've heard you can lap out the port somehow.

Bullseye67, you've got me thinking about getting a 10 pounder to go with the 4-20.