Drilling HP

[rvenneman]

Has this been done successfully? I want to do it on cast 38 & 40. It would be satisfying..


Sent from my iPad from Yuma AZ using Tapatalk

[Nueces]

Forster has made HP drilling attachments for their case trimmers for a long time, for use on loaded rounds. It's one way to get there.

http://www.forsterproducts.com/product-category/reloading-tools/case-trimmers/classic-case-trimmer-accessories/hollow-pointer/

[runfiverun]

pretty good one too.
I made up a little jig to hold a drill over a seater die and used the primer hole uniforming tool from lyman to drill some 44 and 45 rounds.
worked okay since I got about 9 out of 10 in the center.
funny thing was it didn't matter, the crooked ones went into the group too.

[country gent]

There are set ups for Hollow pointing on case trimmers forester and wilson come to mind. Another way is to make a hardwood collet or split clamp and use a simple drill bit with a stop on it. The clamp block isnt to hard with a drill press. 2 pieces of hard wood maple works well here. 1" x 1" X 3" drill 2 3/8 dowel holes one side press fit and the other sliding and 2 1/4" holes one above one below on each side( the lines between the dowels and bolt holes should form an X). centered from one in the top of the blocks and 90* to the existing holes drill a pilot hole ( size of drill for hollow point) thru then a caliber size hole to depth of bullet. This clamps and holds the bullet from spinning and sets the base on the drill table. With the drill and stop set in the chuck the Pilot hole centers the drill to the bullet and allows the hollow point to be cut. a Brass or steel bushing can be glued into the one side of the blocks to slow wear from the drill and or chips. This also helps to alighn blocks. Slow but it works.

[Nueces]

funny thing was it didn't matter, the crooked ones went into the group too.

Now, that's a little gem right there, calling for some investigation. I may have overestimated the bad influence of non perfect drilled HPs.

[KYCaster]

pretty good one too.
I made up a little jig to hold a drill over a seater die and used the primer hole uniforming tool from lyman to drill some 44 and 45 rounds.
worked okay since I got about 9 out of 10 in the center.
funny thing was it didn't matter, the crooked ones went into the group too.




My experience with 7.62X39 showed the same thing. Drilled the Lee C312-155-2R. Kinda hard to get the drill centered on the pointy boolit, but didn't seem to make any noticeable difference in 100 yd. groups.

It did make a dramatic difference in terminal effect on groundhogs though! I recovered one boolit from the dirt behind a dead pig...looked a lot like a Nosler Partition. Nose sheared off to the bottom of the HP cavity and the remaining shank expanded to .498 dia. and weighed 128 gr.

I was impressed.
Jerry

[reloader28]

Now, that's a little gem right there, calling for some investigation. I may have overestimated the bad influence of non perfect drilled HPs.

Drilling works good when you test your boolits and get the right dia and depth.
I havent really noticed a difference in accuracy at all from handguns or rifles. Not much of a difference in expansion

[Spector]

I am surprised about concentricity not being an issue at 100 yards. I chuck the boolit and lower it onto the cutter. My problem is getting them all to weigh the same. A backer in the chuck to keep the boolit from only going in so far would help. And then a positive stop also should keep the boolit in the ball park weight wise.

But after reading the comments here I am wondering if I am not just worrying about nothing. Of course I removed about 30 grains of weight in my first attempts so with that much boolit hogged out maybe concentricity is more important. I'd like to read more about experiments in drilling hollow points that function well.

At least as far as reliability in opening up. Not concerned at this point with those who believe hollow points are a mistake in cast self-defense boolits.

Only concerned with accuracy and repeatable success at this point.

Mike

[Silverboolit]

I have used the Forster to hollow point some .45 ACP's with. Works well and gives a repeatedly uniform hole. They shot well and expanded a little bit better than the Remington HP bullets that I compared them to.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You can do pretty much anything you want to the front end of the boolit and it won't greatly affect it.

However if you mess with the back end it will go nuts.

Like Elmer said many years ago,,, The back end, is the steering end.

Randy

[BCB]

There are set ups for Hollow pointing on case trimmers forester and wilson come to mind. Another way is to make a hardwood collet or split clamp and use a simple drill bit with a stop on it. The clamp block isnt to hard with a drill press. 2 pieces of hard wood maple works well here. 1" x 1" X 3" drill 2 3/8 dowel holes one side press fit and the other sliding and 2 1/4" holes one above one below on each side( the lines between the dowels and bolt holes should form an X). centered from one in the top of the blocks and 90* to the existing holes drill a pilot hole ( size of drill for hollow point) thru then a caliber size hole to depth of bullet. This clamps and holds the bullet from spinning and sets the base on the drill table. With the drill and stop set in the chuck the Pilot hole centers the drill to the bullet and allows the hollow point to be cut. a Brass or steel bushing can be glued into the one side of the blocks to slow wear from the drill and or chips. This also helps to alighn blocks. Slow but it works.

Would you happen to have a picture of that invention?...

Thanks...BCB

[GaryN]

I like the Forster setup. The only drawback is it is a little slow.

[Lloyd Smale]

neighbor made me a jig for 4570s and 475 linebaughs. Works pretty good.