Steyr M95 8x56R

[Echo]

Well, Big 5 has an ad for Hungarian Steyr M95 rifles in 8x56r caliber, for $79. Cheapskate that I am, it is tempting, but I need to hear from folks who have experience with the round and the gun, including access to brass for reloading. Like I really need another project...
I read one post on another site and the shooter had TERRIBLE groups from his boolits - but he started his shooting day putting condom bullets down range, and didn't indicaate that he cleaned the fouling out before trying the boolits. I would intend to use cast (really real) boolits in the gun. Now, if I hear an encouraging word...

[Buckshot]

................Hey EasyEd, components are avilable. Lee makes dies, which like everyone else's are basicly incorrect for cast boolits :-) Hornady offers 205 gr jacketed bullets. These carbines and the M31 cartridge (8x56R) is a pretty potent combo. Consider a 205gr jacketed slug from a 19.5" bbl @ 2300 fps :veryconfu The little carbine backs off the slug well!

Go to the "Military Rifles" and "CB loads/Military Rifles" forums and do a search for: M95, or Steyr M95. Should answer all your questions. If not, ask more :bigsmyl2:

................Buckshot

[Bret4207]

The Steyr 95 is probably the closest thing to an off the rack perfect mil-surp deer rifle there is. Potent caliber, short, light, fast, safety is perfect for hunting. All it needs is a peep sight and Buckshot found a Mauser (Lyman or Williams) peep will fit if mounted on the left side, ie-backwards. Fantastic little rifle!

As far as cast goes, there are a few wrinkles yes, but nothing terribly complex. I said before that I highly recommend the NEI 330-245 mould which drops about .332+ and 250 gr from my alloy. Groups under 2" at 70 yards are easy and if the beaver ever stop flooding my farm, and I get time, I'll see wht it does at 100 yards.

For $79.00 how can you go wrong?

[KCSO]

They also make an ideal 410 shot gun, 30-40 Krag, 7.62 russian ect. Just buy a surplus barrel and cut the threads and feed cone. I currently have a 410 and a 30-40 Krag (thanks to Buckshot!).

[Echo]

Thanks, guys. I'm really not up for hunting any more - just blast away at targets. But if the components are readily available - why not?

Criminy, FC - should I buy TWO, and make up a 30-40? I've always wanted one... Tell me more.

[JeffinNZ]

Hell, buy it for ME and send it over!!!!

[Buckshot]

Thanks, guys. I'm really not up for hunting any more - just blast away at targets. But if the components are readily available - why not?

Criminy, FC - should I buy TWO, and make up a 30-40? I've always wanted one... Tell me more.

Conversion as below:

http://www.fototime.com/3F99F55C9811736/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/EF48A81FED28FD0/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/DA9E8C5506E7A0B/standard.jpg

A Lyman 57 SME is used. You have to reverse the apurture carrier on the windage arm as the sight is used on the left, vs the right side of the action.

http://www.fototime.com/8D145DDB43DD2B5/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/F2618D4764522E3/standard.jpg

The 2 mods needed to the clips for proper feeding. LEFT photo You can see how the cartidges lay differently due to their differing shoulder OD's. RIGHT photo The pink lines on the feed lips of the clip show where you have to bend them in slightly. This causes the top cartidge to lie lower and correctly present the boolit to the breech.

Since the 30-40 is smaller in OD, 5 in the clip leave considerable room and they slop around. The left photo (see clip of 30-40's) shows where the bottom lips of the clip need to be bent upwards to take up the majority of the 'jostle room'. Just be carefull that there is enough room for the lifter/follower to get up between them to apply pressure to the rounds in the clip.

No modifications were needed to the boltface, extractor or ejector.

...................Buckshot

[Echo]

You set a prety high standard, Buck, me boy. That is a gorgeous rifle.

My across-the-street neighbor is sort of a smith, mainly for pistols (combat shooter) and I am going to ask him if he would be comfortable putting a barrel on a rifle. May give him pause - gives ME pause! If not, I have another friend that did my Enfield into a clover-leafer. Probably cost somewhat more... Decisions, decisions...

[chevyiron420]

easyed, i have a bunch of those rifles, and they are a blast! i love mine! get a slip on recoil pad.:castmine:

[45nut]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/45nut/rifles/100_1204.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/45nut/rifles/100_1203.jpg

I had a local smith install this on my Steyr.

[Bret4207]

Nice pic Ken. Does that ever get in the way of manipulating the bolt handle?

[smokemjoe]

I got a plain base mold that I will sell you, Saeco by Redding 558 -F10, S.C. .3375 With handles. $70.00 + shipping,.

[klw]

But isn't there a couple issues here? My rifle's bolt drags hard on the surface underneath it making it almost impossible to pull the bolt back. And, if I remember correctly, isn't there a trick to reassemblying the bolt? Something about using a dime to hold the parts apart during reassembly.

The bolt draging cause me to eventually give up shooting mine.

[MtGun44]

Hmm. Sounds like something is wrong. Mine is very smooth and easy
once the bolt rotates.

Bill

[Buckshot]

...............Bolt dragging is caused by the bolt head not locking into position. If it DOES lock, the bolt is very easy to pull and push. Pulling it initially 'can' be a bit tough to start the bolthead rotating. Sometimes it just takes an initial tug, and you aren't going to break anything :-)

The extractor has a long tail which fits between the bolthead spigot that goes down inside the bolt sleeve, and the bolt sleeve itself. On the inside edge on the bottom of the tail is a ridge that sticks up a bit. The tail of the extractor is also bent into a gentle curve along it's length and this applies pressure on the ridge.

The ridge rides on the bolthead spigot, and the spigot has 2 small cresent cuts made into it 90* apart. It also has the 2 opposed spiral cuts that lugs inside the bolt sleeve ride in to cause the bolthead to rotate, but these have noting to do with LOCKING the bolthead. That's what the ridge of steel on the extractor tail does.

As the bolthead and spigot rotate, the ridge on the extractor tail lifts out of one of those cresent shaped cuts, slides across the spigot as it rotates and at 90* of rotation falls into the other cut. This locks the spigot (and hense the bolthead) into the 9 o'clock/3 0'clock position they need to be in to pull the bolt back.

It's either one of 2 things, or maybe even both. Either the ridge of metal on the tail of the extractor is worn, or the cresent cut(s) in the bolthead spigot is/are worn.

The tail of the extractor is long, thin, and pretty hard. Like spring hard. The extractors have aged to the point of almost becoming transmuted into unobtainium, so best to be gentle with it. By viewing the extractor tail, it's locking ridge and the 2 cresent cuts in the bolthead spigot you'll see how it's supposed to work.

I would first attempt by gentle peening with a small punch and light hammer, the reworking of the pressure face of the one cresent cut responsible for holdng the bolthead into it's locked open position.

Bolt removal, disassembly and reassembly instructions can be found here: http://www.surplusrifle.com/steyrm95/bolt/hs.asp

.................Buckshot

[JIMinPHX]

As far as I know that caliber is officially obsolete, but Graf & sons has brass for it -

http://www.grafs.com/product/194805

[Intel6]

I bought out a reloader who passed away and in his stuff were two tins of ammo for this gun. Until then I didn't know about them but because I had ammo I had to get one. Big 5 sale $90 out the door and it kicked my a** this weekend when I shot it. Definitly plan on getting some brass and casting for a nicer shooting experience.

Neal in AZ