Home made Case Lube

[Sprue]

With several ingredients on hand now from making bullet lube, I want to try making my own CASE Lube. I saw a recipe somewhere a while back but I can't find it now.

I think it said the ingredients were:

99% Isopropyl alcohol and Lanolin put into a spray bottle.

Question is, I cannot find 99% alcohol anywhere. I've looked for it at the mart and drug stores but all that I see is 91%. Will 91% work okay?

Also, if you have a formula for case lube, please list it here.

Thanks!

[DLCTEX]

Try this--http//www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm . DALE

[Sprue]

the link doesn't work...tried it different ways



Ahh.... here it is:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm


There are no Safeway stores around here...anyone?

[BeeMan]

Iso-Heet gas line antifreeze is the right stuff. Don't use regular Heet; it's methyl alcohol which is much more toxic. I think Iso-Heet is in the yellow bottle and the methyl Heet is in a red bottle. Check your auto parts store or automotive section at Walmart.

BeeMan

[Lee W]

I use the 91% with no problem. It works so well, I sized a 30-06 to 270 and I did not know it...
Good stuff.

[leftiye]

A first class draw die lube is 20/50 weight synthetic oil with some lanolin in it. Most of those spray on case sizing lubes are alcohol and lanolin. I'd about guess that if you found a light oil that lanolin would dissolve in, and a thinner to dulute it with, you'd have a good sizing lube. I know the alcohol based stuff supposedly doesnt't require cleaning, but I'm used to wiping off RCBS case sizing lube, and for my money there isn't enough lubing going on with the alcohol/lanolin stuff. Actually, if lanolin will go into solution with diesel (a little lubricating going on there), that might work fine. It would wipe dry easily too.

[Larry Gibson]

The 91% works fine with lanolin as mentioned.

Larry Gibson

[Molly]

'Taint homemade, but good old STP is pretty hard to beat, and a can is a lifetime supply. I put a few drops on my hands, spread it out and pick up a handful of cases. Roll them back and forth a few times, drop them in a clean basket, and pick up another handful, etc. You'll feel the difference when you need a little more STP.

Unless you're doing some serious case forming, it really doesn't take much lubrication. I've even used Spray PAM (yeah, the cooking spray) without problems, though I can't say it really impressed me much. Crisco and lanolin work well, as does ordinary lard, which has a long and honorable history as a metalworking lube, as well as a condiment fer frian yer aigs.

Generally speaking, as long as the case is going into the die smoothly, you're in safe country. If it squeaks, or starts in with a jerking motion, STOP, and get the case back out. Then try something else.

If'n so be it that the case would rather part with it's rim than with the die, don't panic! Remove the die from the press and run a coarse tap through the primer pocket. I recommend 1/4 x 20. Then replace the die in the press, and insert a 1/4 x 20 bolt through the shell holder from the bottom. Replace the shell holder in the press, and screw the 1/4 x 20 bolt into the (former) primer pocket. A narrow screwdriver from the bottom will help a lot!

Now just use the leverage of the press to pull the stuck case out. It should come out with little or no trouble. Toss it, and then try a different lube.

Whatever sizing lube you use, it's a good idea to remove it after sizing, to keep the stress on your locking lugs to a minimum. Me, I just drop the sized cases in a large pan of water and add half a spoonful of dishwasher detergent, and put it on the stove until it comes to a boil. Pour through the collander and shake well. Pour from the collander onto a beach towel and pour them back and forth a few times, hammock style. This will remove all water except for a trace inside the cases, which will evaporate overnight. With a little practice, it only takes a few seconds except for the part about waiting for the watched pot to boil.

All this comes from the days when each reloader pretty much had to develop his own materials and techniques, because there simply weren't a whole lot of commercial products aimed at his hobby. Necessity is the mother of invention, and in more ways than one!

Regards,
Molly

[runfiverun]

isopropyl and lanolin works just fine...
i only use that or imperial wax.. and mostly the lanolin and iso.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Once upon a time Lyman sold little tins (about 2 inches in dia.) of what they called "E-Z lube". It turned out to be Lanolin or Anhydrous Lanolin. Pharmacies would also sell anybody either as they used it for certain prescriptions and misc. concoctions. I bought a one pound jar and still have 80%+ of it after 40 years. A half teaspoon on a RCBS case lube pad and roll 6 or 7 cases at a time on/in it does the job. A suppose that the alcohol helps to do something as well as cut the consistency, but I've never missed that feature in sizing or reforming and have never had a stuck case. LLS

[DLCTEX]

I'll bet that RCBS case lube is STP. DALE

[HORNET]

There was quite a bit of discussion a couple of years ago on cheap case lubes (not necessarily homemade) and some members were diluting the Lee stuff (about 10 : 1, IIRC) and dunking cases in it to lube them. Other members also mentioned using wire-pulling lube the same way (Gardner-Denver brand, IIRC). Cases were dunked in, fished out with a strainer, allowed to dry, and then run through the sizing die. Remaining lube could be washed off with water. Try a search on here.

[JeffinNZ]

So I gave the alcohol to the sheep. Now what do I do? Roll the sheep on the loadbench over the cases??

CARPETMAN???

[Sprue]

Sounds like they're ready for sire to me, but the cases are gonna leave a mark.:mrgreen:

[imashooter2]

I'll bet that RCBS case lube is STP. DALE

It doesn't look like STP and it dissolves in water. STP sure doesn't!

I've had good luck diluting RCBS case lube 16:1 with alcohol for a spray lube.

[Molly]

It doesn't look like STP and it dissolves in water. STP sure doesn't!

Well, there's a magic trick for dissolving organic materials like oils into water. Actually, there are several of them. And you probably know every single one without realizing it.

Whaddayado to get grease and oil off your hands after your work on your car? Soap. Or detergent. And they're both subclasses of a wider range of materials called surfactants. Believe it or not, you can mix oil and water into a perfectly clear water-white solution by adding any of a great number of surfactants to the mix. And surfactants are often excellent lubes in their own right too! Why not just try a surfactant for your lube? Oh, if you do, ask for a low foam surfactant so you won't foam the kitchen as you wash the cases.

There's another nice trick too. In industry, it's called 'cosolvent' or 'coupler'. Basicly, it's using something that will mix with both oil and water to mix both together. It's sorta like the surfactant approach, but the surfactant won't evaporate. The cosolvent will. Think of methanol or glycol solvents.

Then there is adding a base to the oily material to react with carboxyl groups and form water-soluble salts. Problem with this approach is that brass can - WILL - be damaged by bases like NH4OH.

But the first two approaches can easily make something like STP into a water-soluble lubricant. Not saying that's what was done to make the RCBS offering, but it's at least a possibility. Anyone wanting to play with making their own lube might want to request a sample of a low foam, non-ionic surfactant from one of the major chemical suppliers like Pilot Chemical Co.

Regards,
Molly

[leftiye]

Jeff,
Do you have more luck with drunken sheep? Roll 'em on the loading bench? LOL! No wonder you were calling for Carpetman!

[utk]

A friend of mine uses liquid soap for his 30-06 sizing. The soap is made from pine tree oil - "all natural".
Since it is soap, it just washes off with water/wet rag

[warf73]

If you can't find 99% localy here is a link to some on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-99-BY-HUMCO-1-PINT_W0QQitemZ150262585450Q
QihZ005QQcategoryZ33918QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem

But your local Wallgreens will order it in for ya, can't remember the price but its only a few bucks cheaper than buying it on Ebay.

Warf

[Ricochet]

Soap is the lubricant used by the ammo manufacturers for the case drawing and forming.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Soap is the lubricant used by the ammo manufacturers for the case drawing and forming.

Is this "soap" in the common use of the word(to wash with)? Or as in Lithium Soap, which can take high heat, and has the ability to thicken oils to make grease(Lithium Grease)?
Morgan

[Ricochet]

Common soap, a 5% solution in water, according to George Frost in Ammunition Making.

[MtGun44]

Remember - "soap" is not "detergent". Most bars of "soap" today are
actually detergent, and may not work. Only Ivory Soap is actually soap
of the major brands that I am familiar with, altho I think there are lots
of boutique brands of soap - if you want your cases to smell like lilacs
or coconut oil or something. :-D

Bill

[Ricochet]

Yes, and although Ivory Soap Flakes haven't been made for several years, I believe Mr. Frost mentioned that as an example. Good old soap.

[lmcollins]

Whenever I want a pure alcohol to use for some purpose I just go to the paint store or home center and buy a pint of Shellac Thinner. It is pure alcohol of some type. Forget which type. Somebody tell us!

The price is cheap, and there is no shipping, etc.

[Ricochet]

It's denatured (to avoid the beverage tax) ethanol.

[7 MM]

I agree with Dale . Ihave used both RCBS and STP and prefer the STP

7 MM

I will lite a candle and say your name

[Fish_N_Russ]

anyone know what the 'One Shot' stuff is.....must be like the alchohol and lanolin since it dries real quick....anyway that stuff works very good

[cast367]

With several ingredients on hand now from making bullet lube, I want to try making my own CASE Lube. I saw a recipe somewhere a while back but I can't find it now.

I think it said the ingredients were:

99% Isopropyl alcohol and Lanolin put into a spray bottle.

Question is, I cannot find 99% alcohol anywhere. I've looked for it at the mart and drug stores but all that I see is 91%. Will 91% work okay?

Also, if you have a formula for case lube, please list it here.

Thanks!

I use for a long time armament clean oil , its works well and is cheap.
cast 367.

[beemer]

Castor oil is a good case lube, cheep and easy to find. Got a bottle at Wal-Mart.

I bought a little tub of Hornady Uinque Case Lube. Says it also preserves leather,waterproofs shoes and boots. One sniff, yep it's tallow,smells just like the beef tallow Dad rendered out of a steer we worked up. I shot most of it up in a ML. Lube your cases, preserve your boots and grease your patches with one product.

beemer

PS, If you use castor oil don't lick your fingers, it is also a multi-use product.

[Ricochet]

Also, don't put castor oil into a case lube pad. Turns into glue after a while.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
IIRC the friend who got me into reloading used WD-40 on a paper towel as a case lube.

[REDTAIL]

i bought a 5 lb can of white graphite powder years ago from some company in chicago and have been using the stuff to lube my bullets and sizing dies workes great

[Sprue]

Since the original post, here are my findings.

5 parts of 91% Isopropyl to 1 part lanolin = Works good, but does separate- needs shaked before use.

5 parts of Heet (red bottle) to 1 part lanolin = Works good, does NOT separate.

As mentioned, either one works fine but I'll use the Heet formula for now.

[sundog]

Well, I finally got around to making some.

1 bottle (red) IsoHeet and about 1 1/2 Tbs of anhydrous lanolin. I had to buy the IsoHeet, don't remember the cost - minimal. The lanolin I had on hand.

Last weekend after casting and refilling the pot, I turned it off and as it cooled down I set a coffee scoop on top of the hardened and warm alloy. Scooped some lanolin off into it and let it melt. While that was going on, I had the plastic container of Heet warming in a pan of hot water. Poured the lanolin into the Heet and dropped in a 1/4-20 stainless steel nut for a 'shaker'. A couple BBs would work just as well, prolly. BeeMan told me the stuff settles, so I figured a shaker would be good.

I poured some off later into a cosmetic dispenser bottle and put it on the bench. Put a shaker nut in it also. Yes, there is some settling, but it mixes back in readily. I used some last night with a q-tip to prep 100 necks for neck sizing with a Redding NS die. Worked like a champ and can't tell from level in bottle that I used any. This batch will last forever. Nice smooth operation with the neck sizer, too.

[NVcurmudgeon]

Been using the same pint of STP for case lube since about 1980, and there's plenty left. It looks, feels, smells, and tastes identical to RCBS case lube c. 1980.

[zxcvbob]

Kiwi "mink oil". Just wipe your fingertips across the top every once in a while, and enough will transfer from your hands to the brass to lube the cases when you pick them up. If you want a liquid case lube, castor oil works good (from the drugstore, not Castrol motor oil)

[Ricochet]

Castor oil works GREAT when it's fresh! It soon turns into sticky glue, though, and it's a grave mistake to put it in a lube pad.