First bullets from my new Accurate mold

[scotner]

Spent some time out in the shop today with a new Pro Melt, newly built PID control and my new Accurate mold. The mold was the 31-240A spec'ed .309 +.002/-.000. Bullets all dropped with about half about .310 and half .311. Weight ran between 243 and 245 grains cast with COWW plus 10% linotype. Obviously they will be P/C'ed since there is no grease groove.

I ran into a problem right off with the PID. After a few minutes of use the circuit went dead at the wall. I checked the breaker and it was good. After finding the GFCI tripped a couple of times I finally took the simple way out and replaced it with a standard duplex outlet. No problem after that.

There were a bunch of little start up problems that required tinkering so I did not have a high count first run but I am anxious to get a few powder coated and try them in the 300 BLK.

[Moonie]

Good looking PC boolits. Let us know how they do. I have quite a few of his molds, playing with a slick sided 147gr one for 9mm from Accurate currently. Boolits drop like rain and they shoot very well so far.

[runfiverun]

I'd probably just tumble lube them and shoot them.
that's what I do with the lee 230's and they might as well be slick.

[scotner]

Good looking PC boolits. Let us know how they do. I have quite a few of his molds, playing with a slick sided 147gr one for 9mm from Accurate currently. Boolits drop like rain and they shoot very well so far.

I sure hope they feed well and are accurate. I was really impressed with how easily they dropped from the mold right from the beginning. Slick sided design may be a big factor there.

[scotner]

I'd probably just tumble lube them and shoot them.
that's what I do with the lee 230's and they might as well be slick.

My main point in using powder coat is to keep the can clean. I can't see TL doing this very well but I have not tried it.

[minmax]

I sent you a pm, before I found this thread. Keep up the good work.

[scotner]

I sent you a pm, before I found this thread. Keep up the good work.

Thanks. PM replied.

[44man]

Yeah, have to watch the funny outlets. I don't use them but have breakers for outside outlets. Lights were always going off so I had to spray CRC into outside outlets because of moisture. Worst was the outlet on the light pole out front. Rest are covered better.
I use a power strip in the garage and two pots, the air conditioner in the window was too much and popped the strip breaker.
I don't worry because I over wire, use no 10 for everything and real heavy for 220 volts. Can't even bend the stinking wires.
One thing to keep track of is any loose connections, they over heat. I had a bad outlet and it melted the insulation off the wire in the wall. I found it before trouble and it was hell to replace.
Make connections TIGHT.

[44man]

NEVER plug wires into those holes in the back of outlets, that was what the original electrician did. It is poison and can burn your home down. Use the screws on outlets. Anything not tight will get hot.

[scotner]

Yeah, have to watch the funny outlets. I don't use them but have breakers for outside outlets. Lights were always going off so I had to spray CRC into outside outlets because of moisture. Worst was the outlet on the light pole out front. Rest are covered better.
I use a power strip in the garage and two pots, the air conditioner in the window was too much and popped the strip breaker.
I don't worry because I over wire, use no 10 for everything and real heavy for 220 volts. Can't even bend the stinking wires.
One thing to keep track of is any loose connections, they over heat. I had a bad outlet and it melted the insulation off the wire in the wall. I found it before trouble and it was hell to replace.
Make connections TIGHT.

I had to install the GFCI receptacles to pass inspection and that was the one thing he checked first. I intended to replace them after the inspection if I had any problem. They worked fine until now so this is he first one I have removed.

[runfiverun]

for a can I would stick with the powder coating or Hi-Tek coating.
it seems to be the safest route.

[ShooterAZ]

For what it's worth, when my Promelt was brand new it tripped the GFCI. I read on this forum that there could be a small amount of moisture in the element coil when new, and could trip the breaker. I just ran a cord to a regular outlet, and after a lengthy casting session it would no longer trip it.

[Phlier]

Nicely done, Scotner, glad to see you got your problems sorted with your PID. I *love* my PID. It's so nice to be able to dial everything in to the point that you're able to get extremely consistent results with every cast.. first to last.

With my PID and an infrared thermometer, I'm able to get my Lee six banger TL356-124-2R to throw so well they are almost able to be shot as cast... almost. PID at 725 and mold temp at 425 = just barely frosted, perfect boolits every time.

[Phlier]

For what it's worth, when my Promelt was brand new it tripped the GFCI. I read on this forum that there could be a small amount of moisture in the element coil when new, and could trip the breaker. I just ran a cord to a regular outlet, and after a lengthy casting session it would no longer trip it.

I have a 20 year old double burner hot plate that's commercial quality that sat new in box until two weeks ago. Interestingly, it pops the GFCI outlet every time, yet when I plug it into my PID, it doesn't trip the GFCI.

[tomme boy]

Get GFCI breaker for your panel. They work better and last longer. Plus it is one breaker for the whole circuit

[scotner]

Get GFCI breaker for your panel. They work better and last longer. Plus it is one breaker for the whole circuit

A GFCI receptacle is one for the whole circuit. The GFCI is the first receptacle on that circuit and you can feed five more duplex receptacles after that. All will have ground fault protection.

[scotner]

Nicely done, Scotner, glad to see you got your problems sorted with your PID. I *love* my PID. It's so nice to be able to dial everything in to the point that you're able to get extremely consistent results with every cast.. first to last.

With my PID and an infrared thermometer, I'm able to get my Lee six banger TL356-124-2R to throw so well they are almost able to be shot as cast... almost. PID at 725 and mold temp at 425 = just barely frosted, perfect boolits every time.

Thanks. I started at 700° but that was hotter than i wanted. I ended up at 625° with just slight frosting. I was hoping to use them without sizing but after P/C and bake they needed a couple of thou less to start. I will see how the accuracy and function end up.

[scotner]

for a can I would stick with the powder coating or Hi-Tek coating.
it seems to be the safest route.No choice now since there are no lube grooves but I had in mind using powder coat when I ordered the mold. Also, I hope the long bearing surface and flat base will contribute to accuracy. It is all a guessing game so we will see.

[murf205]

[QUOTE=scotner;3879351]Spent some time out in the shop today with a new Pro Melt, newly built PID control and my new Accurate mold. The mold was the 31-240A spec'ed .309 +.002/-.000. Bullets all dropped with about half about .310 and half .311. Weight ran between 243 and 245 grains cast with COWW plus 10% linotype. Obviously they will be P/C'ed since there is no grease groove.

I ran into a problem right off with the PID. After a few minutes of use the circuit went dead at the wall. I checked the breaker and it was good. After finding the GFCI tripped a couple of times I finally took the simple way out and replaced it with a standard duplex outlet. No problem after that.

There were a bunch of little start up problems that required tinkering so I did not have a high count first run but I am anxious to get a few powder coated and try them in the 300 BLK.[/

Scotner, those look like a SCUD missile. What twist does your rifle have.

[scotner]

Scotner, those look like a SCUD missile. What twist does your rifle have.

1:7 in a 10.5" AR barrel.

[Dutchninja]

Scotner - I'm running a HP version of that same mold i got from Phantom30. They are accurate out of my 300's, you'll like them. I'm assuming your running them in an AR? (nevermind you just posted you are).

[scotner]

Scotner - I'm running a HP version of that same mold i got from Phantom30. They are accurate out of my 300's, you'll like them. I'm assuming your running them in an AR? (nevermind you just posted you are).

I got some coated yesterday and started working on load data
last night. I spent hours trying to pick a starting point. I made a guess at COAL. The first one would not even allow the bolt to close. Adjusted that and made a SWAG at the powder charge. I loaded one round and ran it across the chronograph in the back yard. I was looking for 1050 FPS and expected to make a lot of trips to the den to try different charge weights. The first one through the traps showed 1049 and the bolt locked back. Range trip tomorrow to put them on paper to check for accuracy and stability.

[Moonie]

I got some coated yesterday and started working on load datd last night. I spent hours trying to pick a starting point. I made a guess at COAL. The first one would not even allow the bolt to close. Adjusted that and made a SWAG at the powder charge. I loaded one round and ran it across the chronograph in the back yard. I was looking for 1050 FPS and expected to make a lot of trips to the den to try different charge weights. The first one through the traps showed 1049 and the bolt locked back. Range trip tomorrow to put them on paper tocheck for accuracy and stability.

Score!

[scotner]

Well, they cast nice, feed well in my gun, the little end stays in front all the way to the target, and the can keeps them quiet. What else could you ask for? Oh, did I mention accuracy? Probably a reason that was not in the list.

Lots of variables to play with. I may load a few with 1680 just to say I tried. Might try another color powder coat.

[runfiverun]

I would play with the speed a bit that's a long projectile to spin up.

[scotner]

I would play with the speed a bit that's a long projectile to spin up.

Thanks. That is one of the options I will explore first. I may stay with the 296 for now and try lowering the charge weight a couple of grains at the time and see what effect it has.

So you don't think another color would help? I can't wait to get my hands on some Zombie green.

[scotner]

I would play with the speed a bit that's a long projectile to spin up.

Thanks. Looks like you may have nailed it. I loaded up a few more test rounds and went back to the range today. My previous load was 9.5 gr W296. I loaded 5 rounds each at 8.9, 9.2 and 9.5 and shot them today. As you can see from the picture the group shrank considerably as I reduced the charge. The 9.5 group gave me about the same result as it did before. The 8.9 grain gave me about what I was hoping the load was capable of ( I was quite willing to write off the flyer). I have not clocked them yet but the load still cycled properly and the bolt locked back.

I also attached the 1680 results. Apparently that will not be a candidate for this bullet. It also showed the smaller group with a lighter charge weight but the bullet holes look a bit oblong to me.

[tomme boy]

A GFCI receptacle is one for the whole circuit. The GFCI is the first receptacle on that circuit and you can feed five more duplex receptacles after that. All will have ground fault protection.Yes but a lot of homes do not have 3 wire or a ground wire. So you do it at the panel then the whole line is protected.